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[email protected] LoogyPicker@gmail.com is offline
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,892
Default Merc outboard diagnosis

On Apr 1, 8:58*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 1 Apr 2009 16:20:03 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:





The real test is to put a little pressure (a couple PSI) into the
lower unit, spray the seals with soapy water and look for bubbles.
If it isn't one of the big shaft seals you might get away with just
replacing the shift shaft seal. That is 2 screws and doesn't require
tearing into the foot but that would not let out out while it was
sitting. If it leaks on the trailer it is most likely the prop shaft
seal. That is a big deal.
I have been in a lower unit several times. The first couple were a
serious learning experience along with an excuse to buy tools. I am
fairly comfortable in there now but it is still a daunting task if it
hasn't been opened up for a while since stuff will be corroded into a
single mass of metal. Getting the bearing carrier out can really be a
chore, even with the puller. Don't lose the 3 loose ball bearings on
the shaft ! * ;-)
You also need a set of seal seating tools to get them back in without
screwing them up. I had them from working on car transmissions.


Before you even start, get some good anti-sieze compound and use it on
every bolt and screw you put back. I like "Never-seez". It is nasty
stuff to work with, it seems to stain everything it touches but it
does stop most of the problems with galling out the holes when you
remove a screw in a couple years. Salt water is hell on aluminum when
you put a stainless screw in it. You guys are famous for your salt
water. ;-)
I am guessing you are closer to Lake Powell tho.


Yeah, all this has seen is fresh water. *I called the local Merc dealer
today, and they said they'd charge me an hour for an estimate, then credit
it back if I had the repairs done. *May go that way, as I'd like to have it
right from the get go.


Steve


The dealer is not evil. That is where the best people work, just try
to be sure that is the one working on your engine. I have had very
good and very bad experiences at a dealer. Ask around. See if you can
find happy customers.
BTW sometime the dealer is way best.
I needed a shift cable for my Merc. It was over $60 at West Marine for
a generic cable and 2 bags of parts. The dealer had exactly the right
"drop in" cable for about $40 (actually overnighted in) *- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


In Florida, I had a friend who owned a fairly large lawn equipment
repair shop. This town like most in FL had a LOT of retirees. That guy
made a LOT of money in the winter when they were around! A lot of them
didn't do ANYTHING for themselves. He had (for a nominal fee) a pick
up and delivery system, he'd come and take there equipment to the
shop, fix it, then return it. In the winter, I have seen ten or twenty
lawn walk behind mowers getting an oil change at one time!
They'd let them sit all summer, get gummed up, then have them
serviced. Very simple carbs, takes about five minutes to get one off
and apart and into the cleaner.
Same with auto repair shops in the area.