On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:40:17 -0500, Gene
wrote:

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:03:14 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:55:20 -0800, "Mike" wrote:


"Vic Smith" wrote in message
...
I was reading some comments about it elsewhere and got to thinking.
When/if I get to the point of launching my own boat, I'll have to
spend some time watching ramp activity before I do it myself.
Used to launch/retrieve with my buddies years ago, but I forgot
everything except how hard it was to crank the boat onto the bunks.
I think the owner was leery of backing in far enough to float it.
Oddly, I don't remember any problems pushing it off when launching.
Maybe we were stronger setting out fishing than we were when we got
back, or maybe it's just how gravity works.
I don't remember any problems at all.
But from my reading it seems the ramp is a good comedy show sometimes,
and a good drama when the hotheads get involved.
Anybody care to share some "outstanding" experiences?

--Vic

Vic,

Unfortunately, some can't offer advice without taking an unwarranted shot at
another, and not answer the question. You have a legitimate question that
deserves a
legitimate answer.

You are correct. Go to the ramp, and watch how the experienced guys (and
gals) are doing it. You'll learn alot. If you offer a hand (which is always
appreciated), ask questions.

The best advice I can give is to make sure you
back down far enough to wet all of the bunks, then pull back out to the
proper depth. It's a LOT easier to move a boat on wet bunks rather than dry.
I actually power my boat all the way up to the stop. You can do this w/out
revving the engine at the last second. You just need to get a feel for the
headway speed you need to do it. Many ramps frown of folks revving their
boats up to the trailer stops. It can make a mess of the bottom of the ramp,
and kick up all sorts of stuff. So, wet the bunks, and coast up as far as
you can.

Leave the boat in forward, connect the winch strap, and winch her the rest
of the way up.
Keeping the boat in forward, even at idle, will help immensely. Jump back to
the helm,
put her in neutral, and cut the engine(s).

I hope this helps.

--Mike



I have to disagree with having the engine running at all when
retrieving or launching the boat. Our local county ramp has had signs
up for a few years now showing the damage caused by the scouring
action of the propellor when the engine is in gear and pushing water.
Finally, the county has started imposing fines when folks are caught
doing it. I agree wholeheartedly with the idea.

The practice washes the sand/dirt away from the concrete end of the
ramp and even from under the ramp. Without support the ramp begins to
break off, or at the least provide a dropoff to catch trailer tires.

Wetting the bunks helps. But, that can be done with a coffee can in
about four seconds.

That's weird. However, our ramps tend to be rather flat.

Everybody around here bought a drive-on trailer and uses it as
such....

Winching is good exercise. That's why God made 'em. They should be
used.

Gene wrote:
On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:03:14 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:55:20 -0800, "Mike" wrote:

"Vic Smith" wrote in message
...
I was reading some comments about it elsewhere and got to thinking.
When/if I get to the point of launching my own boat, I'll have to
spend some time watching ramp activity before I do it myself.
Used to launch/retrieve with my buddies years ago, but I forgot
everything except how hard it was to crank the boat onto the bunks.
I think the owner was leery of backing in far enough to float it.
Oddly, I don't remember any problems pushing it off when launching.
Maybe we were stronger setting out fishing than we were when we got
back, or maybe it's just how gravity works.
I don't remember any problems at all.
But from my reading it seems the ramp is a good comedy show sometimes,
and a good drama when the hotheads get involved.
Anybody care to share some "outstanding" experiences?

--Vic
Vic,

Unfortunately, some can't offer advice without taking an unwarranted shot at
another, and not answer the question. You have a legitimate question that
deserves a
legitimate answer.

You are correct. Go to the ramp, and watch how the experienced guys (and
gals) are doing it. You'll learn alot. If you offer a hand (which is always
appreciated), ask questions.

The best advice I can give is to make sure you
back down far enough to wet all of the bunks, then pull back out to the
proper depth. It's a LOT easier to move a boat on wet bunks rather than dry.
I actually power my boat all the way up to the stop. You can do this w/out
revving the engine at the last second. You just need to get a feel for the
headway speed you need to do it. Many ramps frown of folks revving their
boats up to the trailer stops. It can make a mess of the bottom of the ramp,
and kick up all sorts of stuff. So, wet the bunks, and coast up as far as
you can.

Leave the boat in forward, connect the winch strap, and winch her the rest
of the way up.
Keeping the boat in forward, even at idle, will help immensely. Jump back to
the helm,
put her in neutral, and cut the engine(s).

I hope this helps.

--Mike


I have to disagree with having the engine running at all when
retrieving or launching the boat. Our local county ramp has had signs
up for a few years now showing the damage caused by the scouring
action of the propellor when the engine is in gear and pushing water.
Finally, the county has started imposing fines when folks are caught
doing it. I agree wholeheartedly with the idea.

The practice washes the sand/dirt away from the concrete end of the
ramp and even from under the ramp. Without support the ramp begins to
break off, or at the least provide a dropoff to catch trailer tires.

Wetting the bunks helps. But, that can be done with a coffee can in
about four seconds.

That's weird. However, our ramps tend to be rather flat.

Everybody around here bought a drive-on trailer and uses it as
such....


Gene...I'm guessing by "drive-on" trailer you mean a roller trailer as
opposed to a bunk trailer?

I suppose bunk vs. roller is a function of facilities and preferences.
I've never liked roller trailers.

Fortunately, all the ramps I visit are steep enough to allow bunk
trailers. I never power onto the trailer. I pull the boat up by hand
with a line attached to the bow ring, then I winch it up the rest of the
way. It's easier on the boat and me to do it slow and easy.

Got a spray called "liquid rollers" I spritz on the bunks every so
often. Works well.

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 14:57:32 GMT, Blazer wrote:

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:40:17 -0500, Gene
wrote:

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:03:14 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:55:20 -0800, "Mike" wrote:


"Vic Smith" wrote in message
m...
I was reading some comments about it elsewhere and got to thinking.
When/if I get to the point of launching my own boat, I'll have to
spend some time watching ramp activity before I do it myself.
Used to launch/retrieve with my buddies years ago, but I forgot
everything except how hard it was to crank the boat onto the bunks.
I think the owner was leery of backing in far enough to float it.
Oddly, I don't remember any problems pushing it off when launching.
Maybe we were stronger setting out fishing than we were when we got
back, or maybe it's just how gravity works.
I don't remember any problems at all.
But from my reading it seems the ramp is a good comedy show sometimes,
and a good drama when the hotheads get involved.
Anybody care to share some "outstanding" experiences?

--Vic

Vic,

Unfortunately, some can't offer advice without taking an unwarranted shot at
another, and not answer the question. You have a legitimate question that
deserves a
legitimate answer.

You are correct. Go to the ramp, and watch how the experienced guys (and
gals) are doing it. You'll learn alot. If you offer a hand (which is always
appreciated), ask questions.

The best advice I can give is to make sure you
back down far enough to wet all of the bunks, then pull back out to the
proper depth. It's a LOT easier to move a boat on wet bunks rather than dry.
I actually power my boat all the way up to the stop. You can do this w/out
revving the engine at the last second. You just need to get a feel for the
headway speed you need to do it. Many ramps frown of folks revving their
boats up to the trailer stops. It can make a mess of the bottom of the ramp,
and kick up all sorts of stuff. So, wet the bunks, and coast up as far as
you can.

Leave the boat in forward, connect the winch strap, and winch her the rest
of the way up.
Keeping the boat in forward, even at idle, will help immensely. Jump back to
the helm,
put her in neutral, and cut the engine(s).

I hope this helps.

--Mike



I have to disagree with having the engine running at all when
retrieving or launching the boat. Our local county ramp has had signs
up for a few years now showing the damage caused by the scouring
action of the propellor when the engine is in gear and pushing water.
Finally, the county has started imposing fines when folks are caught
doing it. I agree wholeheartedly with the idea.

The practice washes the sand/dirt away from the concrete end of the
ramp and even from under the ramp. Without support the ramp begins to
break off, or at the least provide a dropoff to catch trailer tires.

Wetting the bunks helps. But, that can be done with a coffee can in
about four seconds.

That's weird. However, our ramps tend to be rather flat.

Everybody around here bought a drive-on trailer and uses it as
such....

Winching is good exercise. That's why God made 'em. They should be
used.

I agree. Nothing 'weird' about using the winch.
--
Calling an Illegal Alien an "Undocumented Worker" is like calling a
Crack Dealer an "Unlicensed Pharmacist"

John H

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:40:17 -0500, Gene
wrote:

Everybody around here bought a drive-on trailer and uses it as
such....

With rollers or bunks? I'm trying to figure out what makes it a
drive-on trailer.

don't forget the plugs.....

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 13:20:59 -0500, Gene
wrote:

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:03:40 -0500, HK wrote:

Gene wrote:
On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:03:14 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:55:20 -0800, "Mike" wrote:

"Vic Smith" wrote in message
...
I was reading some comments about it elsewhere and got to thinking.
When/if I get to the point of launching my own boat, I'll have to
spend some time watching ramp activity before I do it myself.
Used to launch/retrieve with my buddies years ago, but I forgot
everything except how hard it was to crank the boat onto the bunks.
I think the owner was leery of backing in far enough to float it.
Oddly, I don't remember any problems pushing it off when launching.
Maybe we were stronger setting out fishing than we were when we got
back, or maybe it's just how gravity works.
I don't remember any problems at all.
But from my reading it seems the ramp is a good comedy show sometimes,
and a good drama when the hotheads get involved.
Anybody care to share some "outstanding" experiences?

--Vic
Vic,

Unfortunately, some can't offer advice without taking an unwarranted shot at
another, and not answer the question. You have a legitimate question that
deserves a
legitimate answer.

You are correct. Go to the ramp, and watch how the experienced guys (and
gals) are doing it. You'll learn alot. If you offer a hand (which is always
appreciated), ask questions.

The best advice I can give is to make sure you
back down far enough to wet all of the bunks, then pull back out to the
proper depth. It's a LOT easier to move a boat on wet bunks rather than dry.
I actually power my boat all the way up to the stop. You can do this w/out
revving the engine at the last second. You just need to get a feel for the
headway speed you need to do it. Many ramps frown of folks revving their
boats up to the trailer stops. It can make a mess of the bottom of the ramp,
and kick up all sorts of stuff. So, wet the bunks, and coast up as far as
you can.

Leave the boat in forward, connect the winch strap, and winch her the rest
of the way up.
Keeping the boat in forward, even at idle, will help immensely. Jump back to
the helm,
put her in neutral, and cut the engine(s).

I hope this helps.

--Mike


I have to disagree with having the engine running at all when
retrieving or launching the boat. Our local county ramp has had signs
up for a few years now showing the damage caused by the scouring
action of the propellor when the engine is in gear and pushing water.
Finally, the county has started imposing fines when folks are caught
doing it. I agree wholeheartedly with the idea.

The practice washes the sand/dirt away from the concrete end of the
ramp and even from under the ramp. Without support the ramp begins to
break off, or at the least provide a dropoff to catch trailer tires.

Wetting the bunks helps. But, that can be done with a coffee can in
about four seconds.

That's weird. However, our ramps tend to be rather flat.

Everybody around here bought a drive-on trailer and uses it as
such....


Gene...I'm guessing by "drive-on" trailer you mean a roller trailer as
opposed to a bunk trailer?

I suppose bunk vs. roller is a function of facilities and preferences.
I've never liked roller trailers.

Fortunately, all the ramps I visit are steep enough to allow bunk
trailers. I never power onto the trailer. I pull the boat up by hand
with a line attached to the bow ring, then I winch it up the rest of the
way. It's easier on the boat and me to do it slow and easy.

Got a spray called "liquid rollers" I spritz on the bunks every so
often. Works well.

http://www.associatedcontent.com/art....html?cat= 11

Again, the purpose of the drive on trailer, according to your cite, is
to save on winching.

If your ramps are not scoured or otherwised damaged by the flow of the
water, then by all means drive on. However, this is not the case for
most concrete ramps.
--
John H

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those
who are willing to work and give to those who would not."
Thomas Jefferson

"Don White" wrote in message
...

"Vic Smith" wrote in message
...
I was reading some comments about it elsewhere and got to thinking.
When/if I get to the point of launching my own boat, I'll have to
spend some time watching ramp activity before I do it myself.
Used to launch/retrieve with my buddies years ago, but I forgot
everything except how hard it was to crank the boat onto the bunks.
I think the owner was leery of backing in far enough to float it.
Oddly, I don't remember any problems pushing it off when launching.
Maybe we were stronger setting out fishing than we were when we got
back, or maybe it's just how gravity works.
I don't remember any problems at all.
But from my reading it seems the ramp is a good comedy show sometimes,
and a good drama when the hotheads get involved.
Anybody care to share some "outstanding" experiences?

--Vic

I back down until the truck rear tires touch water. I'm especially
careful when in salt water due to potential corrosion.
My open aluminum boat will be partially floating at this point so it's
easy to push off & control. I pull the boat next to the trailer and lift
the bow up enough to slip a couple of fenders under it. I then lay the
anchor forward on the ramp to avoid the boat floating away while I park
the truck/trailer.
With my bigger and much heavier sailboat... solo launch/retrieval was more
troublesome because the boat sat too high to float off/on.


And you screw up the ramp for others while you park the truck. Pull it off
to the side of the ramp area or tie it off to the dock out of the way.

"John H" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 14:57:32 GMT, Blazer wrote:

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:40:17 -0500, Gene
wrote:

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:03:14 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:55:20 -0800, "Mike" wrote:


"Vic Smith" wrote in message
om...
I was reading some comments about it elsewhere and got to thinking.
When/if I get to the point of launching my own boat, I'll have to
spend some time watching ramp activity before I do it myself.
Used to launch/retrieve with my buddies years ago, but I forgot
everything except how hard it was to crank the boat onto the bunks.
I think the owner was leery of backing in far enough to float it.
Oddly, I don't remember any problems pushing it off when launching.
Maybe we were stronger setting out fishing than we were when we got
back, or maybe it's just how gravity works.
I don't remember any problems at all.
But from my reading it seems the ramp is a good comedy show
sometimes,
and a good drama when the hotheads get involved.
Anybody care to share some "outstanding" experiences?

--Vic

Vic,

Unfortunately, some can't offer advice without taking an unwarranted
shot at
another, and not answer the question. You have a legitimate question
that
deserves a
legitimate answer.

You are correct. Go to the ramp, and watch how the experienced guys
(and
gals) are doing it. You'll learn alot. If you offer a hand (which is
always
appreciated), ask questions.

The best advice I can give is to make sure you
back down far enough to wet all of the bunks, then pull back out to the
proper depth. It's a LOT easier to move a boat on wet bunks rather than
dry.
I actually power my boat all the way up to the stop. You can do this
w/out
revving the engine at the last second. You just need to get a feel for
the
headway speed you need to do it. Many ramps frown of folks revving
their
boats up to the trailer stops. It can make a mess of the bottom of the
ramp,
and kick up all sorts of stuff. So, wet the bunks, and coast up as far
as
you can.

Leave the boat in forward, connect the winch strap, and winch her the
rest
of the way up.
Keeping the boat in forward, even at idle, will help immensely. Jump
back to
the helm,
put her in neutral, and cut the engine(s).

I hope this helps.

--Mike



I have to disagree with having the engine running at all when
retrieving or launching the boat. Our local county ramp has had signs
up for a few years now showing the damage caused by the scouring
action of the propellor when the engine is in gear and pushing water.
Finally, the county has started imposing fines when folks are caught
doing it. I agree wholeheartedly with the idea.

The practice washes the sand/dirt away from the concrete end of the
ramp and even from under the ramp. Without support the ramp begins to
break off, or at the least provide a dropoff to catch trailer tires.

Wetting the bunks helps. But, that can be done with a coffee can in
about four seconds.

That's weird. However, our ramps tend to be rather flat.

Everybody around here bought a drive-on trailer and uses it as
such....

Winching is good exercise. That's why God made 'em. They should be
used.

I agree. Nothing 'weird' about using the winch.
--
Calling an Illegal Alien an "Undocumented Worker" is like calling a
Crack Dealer an "Unlicensed Pharmacist"

John H

Takes too long and if the strap breaks, what then. But we build the ramps
longer here because of big tide changes or large lake level changes. 2-300
ft level change in some lakes.

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 11:17:42 -0800, "CalifBill"
wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 14:57:32 GMT, Blazer wrote:

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:40:17 -0500, Gene
wrote:

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:03:14 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:55:20 -0800, "Mike" wrote:


"Vic Smith" wrote in message
news:es2hq4h31778524t9uqd19nd6e1t5i8lbk@4ax. com...
I was reading some comments about it elsewhere and got to thinking.
When/if I get to the point of launching my own boat, I'll have to
spend some time watching ramp activity before I do it myself.
Used to launch/retrieve with my buddies years ago, but I forgot
everything except how hard it was to crank the boat onto the bunks.
I think the owner was leery of backing in far enough to float it.
Oddly, I don't remember any problems pushing it off when launching.
Maybe we were stronger setting out fishing than we were when we got
back, or maybe it's just how gravity works.
I don't remember any problems at all.
But from my reading it seems the ramp is a good comedy show
sometimes,
and a good drama when the hotheads get involved.
Anybody care to share some "outstanding" experiences?

--Vic

Vic,

Unfortunately, some can't offer advice without taking an unwarranted
shot at
another, and not answer the question. You have a legitimate question
that
deserves a
legitimate answer.

You are correct. Go to the ramp, and watch how the experienced guys
(and
gals) are doing it. You'll learn alot. If you offer a hand (which is
always
appreciated), ask questions.

The best advice I can give is to make sure you
back down far enough to wet all of the bunks, then pull back out to the
proper depth. It's a LOT easier to move a boat on wet bunks rather than
dry.
I actually power my boat all the way up to the stop. You can do this
w/out
revving the engine at the last second. You just need to get a feel for
the
headway speed you need to do it. Many ramps frown of folks revving
their
boats up to the trailer stops. It can make a mess of the bottom of the
ramp,
and kick up all sorts of stuff. So, wet the bunks, and coast up as far
as
you can.

Leave the boat in forward, connect the winch strap, and winch her the
rest
of the way up.
Keeping the boat in forward, even at idle, will help immensely. Jump
back to
the helm,
put her in neutral, and cut the engine(s).

I hope this helps.

--Mike



I have to disagree with having the engine running at all when
retrieving or launching the boat. Our local county ramp has had signs
up for a few years now showing the damage caused by the scouring
action of the propellor when the engine is in gear and pushing water.
Finally, the county has started imposing fines when folks are caught
doing it. I agree wholeheartedly with the idea.

The practice washes the sand/dirt away from the concrete end of the
ramp and even from under the ramp. Without support the ramp begins to
break off, or at the least provide a dropoff to catch trailer tires.

Wetting the bunks helps. But, that can be done with a coffee can in
about four seconds.

That's weird. However, our ramps tend to be rather flat.

Everybody around here bought a drive-on trailer and uses it as
such....

Winching is good exercise. That's why God made 'em. They should be
used.

I agree. Nothing 'weird' about using the winch.
--
Calling an Illegal Alien an "Undocumented Worker" is like calling a
Crack Dealer an "Unlicensed Pharmacist"

John H

Takes too long and if the strap breaks, what then. But we build the ramps
longer here because of big tide changes or large lake level changes. 2-300
ft level change in some lakes.


*If* the strap breaks, drive it on. You've no other choice.

Like I told Gene, if no damage can occur due to the scouring action of
the prop, then there's nothing wrong with driving on. 'Takes too long'
isn't a good reason.
--
John H

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those
who are willing to work and give to those who would not."
Thomas Jefferson

"Don White" wrote in message
...

"Vic Smith" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:24:49 -0400, "Don White"
wrote:

I back down until the truck rear tires touch water. I'm especially
careful
when in salt water due to potential corrosion.
My open aluminum boat will be partially floating at this point so it's
easy
to push off & control. I pull the boat next to the trailer and lift the
bow up enough to slip a couple of fenders under it. I then lay the anchor
forward on the ramp to avoid the boat floating away while I park the
truck/trailer.
With my bigger and much heavier sailboat... solo launch/retrieval was
more
troublesome because the boat sat too high to float off/on.

In many of the boat ramp stories I see there's so much traffic the
solo stuff slows things down. But hey, if you're solo, you're solo.
What you said about not wetting the rear truck hubs gave me an idea
for a trailer though.
I don't know the exact part names so bear with me. It should be clear
enough.
The hitch is on an arm connected to the yoke/frame.
So the "hitch arm" is straight. I've seen them of different lengths
depending on trailer design and size.
What if the hitch was a telescoping tube, and once you got your back
truck tires wet you could release the telescoping lock (maybe a pin
though the tube.) and the trailer would then back down another few
feet into the water?
You could drive away from the water with it extended but collapse it
and lock it before you hit the road.
That could be real useful on steep ramps.
Might have a similar design that would be let loose on a cable(s) to
back down the ramp, then be cranked back up with a self-contained
winch. The two end parts would be designed to auto-align and snug up
stiff to be relocked. Don't know the parts names, but they use
something like that for space station docking and mid-air refueling.
This all might be overkill for a boat trailer, but might sell some.
I'm not going into business and won't put a patent on the internets,
so consider these ideas yours now.
Just invite me for a week at the tropical island you buy with the
proceeds.

--Vic


I had this ideas when I ordered my custom built trailer. Originally I
wanted a hinge type tongue similar to what some major trailer
manufacturers use.
(re 20 x 12 foot garage)
The builder couldn't do that so we compromised on a larger frame square
tube with a smaller diameter tongue slipped inside with two bolts to hold
the tongue solid during use.
The idiot made it so it only added 18" to the length and I could only
enlongate or shorten it while the boat was on level ....or when the
coupler was disengaged and the tongue supported by a tongue jack.
Here you should be able to see one of the through bolts directly behind
the winch mast.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../winchmast.jpg


Oh yeah.. I also had to loosen that back u-bolt (seen removed in picture) in
order to slide the tongue forward (for launch/retrival) or back (for
trailering).