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Tom Francis - SWSports January 7th 09 10:55 AM

Bimini top brackets
 
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 22:37:35 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:19:58 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:31:46 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:48:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H
wrote:

The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type
screws are used in fiberglass - for anything.

You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200.

That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with
an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever.

Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before
they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no
joke. :)

Ideas like that are appealing. They're cheap!

I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top.
I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun,


A custom made high quality T-top for that boat with a bigger top than
normal would do the trick.

These guys did mine:

http://www.t-tops.com/index.htm

I've seen work done by these folks - high quality.

http://www.edsmarinesuperstore.com/hard.htm

Custom Hard top is about $4,500 (the one above). The base one is $2K
and I'm sure for an extra few dollars, they could make a wider, longer
top which would give you more shade.

You could also get away with a little shorter T-top on that boat which
would give you more shade.

Oh - I forgot.

Told you so. :)


Told me *what* so?

Nope, can't afford a $4500 t-top right now. Have to wait a bit. Then we'll
see.

I'll live with the bimini.

Thanks for the ideas though.


Well, you don't have to drop that kind of money on the T-top - their
standard unit is very affordable and based on the size of your
console, you could probably get them to add some lenth and width to
the top for more shade.

Don White January 7th 09 02:41 PM

Bimini top brackets
 

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 23:22:36 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq."
wrote:


I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top.
I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun,


Now you are talking. That was my suggestion last year. ;)



You need a redneck T top

http://gfretwell.com/electrical/the_butt_ugly.jpg


Funny...a few of the gang with sailboats like my old Sandpiper 565, found
that type of umbrella and use them to cover the cockpit when at anchor.
I preferred this version...
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v2...shade1443a.jpg



John H[_8_] January 7th 09 07:51 PM

Bimini top brackets
 
On Wed, 07 Jan 2009 01:28:20 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 23:22:36 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq."
wrote:


I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top.
I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun,


Now you are talking. That was my suggestion last year. ;)



You need a redneck T top

http://gfretwell.com/electrical/the_butt_ugly.jpg

LOL! That's good.

John H[_8_] January 7th 09 08:03 PM

Bimini top brackets
 
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 23:22:36 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq."
wrote:

John H wrote:
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:48:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H
wrote:

The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type
screws are used in fiberglass - for anything.
You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200.

That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with
an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever.

Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before
they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no
joke. :)


Ideas like that are appealing. They're cheap!

I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top.
I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun,


Now you are talking. That was my suggestion last year. ;)


Well, my wife didn't think much of it last year either!

John H[_8_] January 7th 09 08:05 PM

Bimini top brackets
 
On Wed, 07 Jan 2009 05:55:48 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 22:37:35 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:19:58 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:31:46 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:48:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H
wrote:

The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type
screws are used in fiberglass - for anything.

You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200.

That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with
an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever.

Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before
they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no
joke. :)

Ideas like that are appealing. They're cheap!

I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top.
I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun,

A custom made high quality T-top for that boat with a bigger top than
normal would do the trick.

These guys did mine:

http://www.t-tops.com/index.htm

I've seen work done by these folks - high quality.

http://www.edsmarinesuperstore.com/hard.htm

Custom Hard top is about $4,500 (the one above). The base one is $2K
and I'm sure for an extra few dollars, they could make a wider, longer
top which would give you more shade.

You could also get away with a little shorter T-top on that boat which
would give you more shade.

Oh - I forgot.

Told you so. :)


Told me *what* so?

Nope, can't afford a $4500 t-top right now. Have to wait a bit. Then we'll
see.

I'll live with the bimini.

Thanks for the ideas though.


Well, you don't have to drop that kind of money on the T-top - their
standard unit is very affordable and based on the size of your
console, you could probably get them to add some lenth and width to
the top for more shade.


Oh, I'll live with the bimini. The ideas from all you guys will make the
thing much less troublesome, much of which may have been in my mind anyway.

D K[_2_] January 8th 09 12:44 AM

Bimini top brackets
 
John H wrote:
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:47:44 -0800, "Calif Bill"
wrote:

"John H" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:

"John H" wrote in message
...

I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But,
often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is
strong enough.

You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking
of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that
doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do.
If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no
good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the
stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the
underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I
am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to
keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical
surface
near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing
plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine
stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to
installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out
the
proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The
removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a
surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access
plate,
install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access
plate back in place.

They look like this:

http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg

Eisboch
Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I
may
have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do.

There are also blind screws. toggles.


You know, I've used them in sheet rock for ages, and the thought hit me.
But, as no one had mentioned it I disregarded the idea.

Have you used them in fiberglass?


The hole would have to be rather large - weakening the fiberglass even more.


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