On Tue, 9 Dec 2008 22:48:35 +0100, "Edgar"
wrote:

I think it might be better to close the intake seacock before you disconnect
the hose from it

Somethings still require common sense. :-)

Good point though.

The easiest way to do this is to fill a 5 gallon pail with non-toxic
anti-freeze, the pink stuff rated for 100 below zero. If the boat is
still in the water, warm up the engine first. With the engine shut
down, disconnect the water intake hose at the strainer.

Agreed, this way you're pulling anti-freeze in the same way as the water is
handled.

Just BE SURE to do it only when the engine has completely warmed up.
Otherwise the thermostat won't be open and parts of the system would still
have water in them.

-Bill Kearney

On 9 Dec, 21:55, Dave Brown wrote:
Wayne.B wrote:
The easiest way to do this is to fill a 5 gallon pail with non-toxic
anti-freeze, the pink stuff rated for 100 below zero.

Pink stuff - as in plumbing ant-freeze? I think I have something on that
too. ;-)

http://brownsmarina.com/tech-af.html

--
Regards,
* * * Dave Brown
* * * Brown's Marina Ltd
* * *http://brownsmarina.com/

Use automotive anti freeze which is better for aluminium and the
different metals than domestic plumbing stuff.

On Dec 10, 10:14*am, back to the boats
wrote:
On 9 Dec, 21:55, Dave Brown wrote:

Wayne.B wrote:
The easiest way to do this is to fill a 5 gallon pail with non-toxic
anti-freeze, the pink stuff rated for 100 below zero.

Pink stuff - as in plumbing ant-freeze? I think I have something on that
too. ;-)

http://brownsmarina.com/tech-af.html

--
Regards,
* * * Dave Brown
* * * Brown's Marina Ltd
* * *http://brownsmarina.com/

Use automotive anti freeze which is better for aluminium and the
different metals than domestic plumbing stuff.

Which is also toxic and illegal. Use the non-toxic kind. Walmart has
it in the RV section.

JohnH wrote:
I was just looking around your site a bit and came across this:
http://brownsmarina.com/usedboats/Bergson.html
Wow! What a cool boat!

It's a looker for sure - everyone stops by to look it over and dream,
nobody every buys. sigh


--
Regards,
Dave Brown
Brown's Marina Ltd
http://brownsmarina.com/

wrote:

Use automotive anti freeze which is better for aluminium and the
different metals than domestic plumbing stuff.

Which is also toxic and illegal. Use the non-toxic kind. Walmart has
it in the RV section.

You didn't read the link did you? ;-)

One more time:

http://brownsmarina.com/tech-af.html



--
Regards,
Dave Brown
Brown's Marina Ltd
http://brownsmarina.com/

Bill Kearney wrote:

Agreed, this way you're pulling anti-freeze in the same way as the water
is handled.
Just BE SURE to do it only when the engine has completely warmed up.
Otherwise the thermostat won't be open and parts of the system would
still have water in them.

My big issue with this method is that most systems are designed to feed
the manifolds regardless of thermostat position and unless your
thermostat is wide open when you use this method, most of the a/f will
be sucked in, then pushed out through the exhaust without ever seeing
the inside of the block. PLUS, it will be mixing with the water that is
already there thereby reducing the protection level (and possibly
passing the threshold of protection).


--
Regards,
Dave Brown
Brown's Marina Ltd
http://brownsmarina.com/

loonfellow@lakeside. wrote:

Then I guess I do need to fill it with anti-freeze and tighten
everything back up or it will fill back up with lake water?

Are you leaving it in the water for the winter? Then there's other
things you need to do...




--
Regards,
Dave Brown
Brown's Marina Ltd
http://brownsmarina.com/

On Tue, 09 Dec 2008 16:28:17 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Tue, 09 Dec 2008 13:55:38 -0200, loonfellow@lakeside. wrote:

...I have drained water
from the petcocks on the engine water pump and also
from what appears to be an inline pump that has two lines
for cooling the differential gearbox. ...

Also, somewhere I got the idea that it's good to open the
system where the thermostat would go....

***

The easiest way to do this is to fill a 5 gallon pail with non-toxic
anti-freeze, the pink stuff rated for 100 below zero. If the boat is
still in the water, warm up the engine first. With the engine shut
down, disconnect the water intake hose at the strainer. If the
hose is long enough, put it in the bucket, otherwise make up a short
extension and place that in the bucket. Remove the air filter from
the carburetor. Start up the engine and watch the anti-freeze level
in the bucket. When there is about a gallon left, spray fogging oil
into the carburetor until the engine stalls. If it doesn't stall,
just shut it down. Replace the air filter and re-install the water
intake hose. Close the intake seacock and pour some antifreeze into
the strainer.

The engine is now winterized.

Nice post!

BrianW

On Wed, 10 Dec 2008 17:21:31 -0500, Dave Brown
wrote:

PLUS, it will be mixing with the water that is
already there thereby reducing the protection level (and possibly
passing the threshold of protection).

Adding 10% water to pure glycol, which freezes at 8 F, lowers the
freezing point to -90 F.

Casady