Richard Edwards wrote in
news
On Mon, 15 Sep 2008 01:37:29 +0000, Larry wrote:

Snip
The LED display blanks when the reading makes no sense to the Link.
That's normal. I think we have some stray millivolts being fed to the
current sensing of the link. New wires and terminals and cleaning the
shunt's screws will cure it. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT SCRAPE AWAY ANY OF
THE METAL FROM THE SHUNT! We trim shunts with a file to make them
calbrate. You'll see file marks. More filing will make current
readings too high...not good.


I think that you are "a bit over the top" here Larry G
The connection screws are normally tapped into brass blocks, there is
no problem with cleaning and polishing and if badly corroded filing
this screw area. I totally agree that filing the actual shunt material
between the two blocks is a NO NO. I am sure that is what you meant
but hope this makes it a little clearer to those with less knowledge.

Richard


I just don't want him yacht polishing up the shunt bars to make it pretty.
That will screw up the calibration. Cleaning around the screws is fine.
Those blocks are way too thick to change the shunt calibration, which on a
Link 20 isn't really that important as the batteries are never going to be
anywhere near the AH rating stamped on the side and programmed into the
Link anyways....

I've got a L20 and after a few months installed, it had a CPU storm.
Volts now works OK but any of the amps functions are a shambles.
Tried resetting, have yet to ground sense circuitry which will be next
step. Shame really as the ammeter was really useful in bowling out
what was using the amps.

Gerald,
1) Not resetting to zero ... sounds to me like either the charger's
ground lead is connected direct to the batteries bypassing the shunt,
or a ground lead is running from the starter battery ground to the
starter or engine block. The ground legs of your battery must have
absolutly nothing connected to them except for the shunt. No
exceptions. It's hard to not have an exception. Heavy wires from
chargers, inverters, etc. may be inconvient to route to the shunt, and
misc. devices that are connected direct to the battery as part of the
boats wiring harness, like your bilge pump, need to have their ground
wire rerouted to the shunt.

2) Dead except for green bars ... I had the same problem last month,
disconnecting and reconnecting the link 20 power lead at the battery
cleared the problem for me.

Dan (b393capt)

"Dan Corcoran" wrote in message
...


2) Dead except for green bars ... I had the same problem last month,
disconnecting and reconnecting the link 20 power lead at the battery
cleared the problem for me.


We can gnaw the green out with our teeth and glue a diamond in it's place.

mk5000

"Down that memory lane, I know
So I guess that green light means I go
Through the fire thinking bout all the flames I know
Yeah, but you know "--I loveyou, Solange Knowles

Gerald,
1) Not resetting to zero ... sounds to me like either the charger's
ground lead is connected direct to the batteries bypassing the shunt,
or a ground lead is running from the starter battery ground to the
starter or engine block. The ground legs of your battery must have
absolutly nothing connected to them except for the shunt. No
exceptions. It's hard to not have an exception. Heavy wires from
chargers, inverters, etc. may be inconvient to route to the shunt, and
misc. devices that are connected direct to the battery as part of the
boats wiring harness, like your bilge pump, need to have their ground
wire rerouted to the shunt.

2) Dead except for green bars ... I had the same problem last month,
disconnecting and reconnecting the link 20 power lead at the battery
cleared the problem for me.

Dan (b393capt)

On Nov 30, 11:25*pm, b393capt wrote:
Gerald,
1) Not resetting to zero ... sounds to me like either the charger's
ground lead is connected direct to the batteries bypassing the shunt,
or a ground lead is running from the starter battery ground to the
starter or engine block. The ground legs of your battery must have
absolutly nothing connected to them except for the shunt. No
exceptions. It's hard to not have an exception. Heavy wires from
chargers, inverters, etc. may be inconvient to route to the shunt, and
misc. devices that are connected direct to the battery as part of the
boats wiring harness, like your bilge pump, need to have their ground
wire rerouted to the shunt.

2) Dead except for green bars ... I had the same problem last month,
disconnecting and reconnecting the link 20 power lead at the battery
cleared the problem for me.

Dan (b393capt)

If that does not work, also disconnected the Link 20 battery voltage
sense leads at the same time.