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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: May 2008
Posts: 2
Default Nilsson-Maxwell Windlass 3% or 10% V drop?

On Sun, 18 May 2008 11:55:09 -0400, Jack Erbes
wrote:

Richard Casady wrote:
On Sat, 17 May 2008 16:42:39 -0700 (PDT), Bob
wrote:

I hear it works well. But after seeing how the non tinned existing
cables got all puffy at a nick I can see the advanges of all tinned
wire.


Welding cables must be very flexible, so they are made of a zillion
very fine wires. This gives them a maximum surface area to corrode.
The ends of any marine cable have to be covered with waterproof
plastic, either something you paint on, or a heat shrunk sleeve.
Otherwise salt will crawl into the cable from the ends.


And this is where I start the never ending, never to be won, argument
for tinning the ends of a wire (either tinned or bare copper) before
putting crimp on terminals on. I do that regularly and have been doing
it for years. I like that it gives you a solid object to crimp down on
and it also keep corrosion from getting started in a bundle of loose
strands.

Visualize my wiring as always being well supported and not subject to
pulling strains or the effects of vibration.

Jack

The welding cable that I use has tinned strands. One very minor but
important point is that some cables have a clear wrap between wire and
rubber. It is possible to strip the rubber leaving the "invisible"
wrap in place. Subsequent crimping gives a very questionable joint G
No, I have never done it, but "nearly" G

The point about a "zillion" strands is very valid, necessitating
adhesive lined heatshrink in a marine environment. My cables only have
half a zillion!



--

Richard

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