Hi:

Im replacing the two 35' cables to the windlass. Id like to size them
proper but not sure how much voltage drop is alowable.

I went to the Nilsson Website and they listed several North America
service centers. Ive called 6 of them and got message machines or the
tech isnt in now.

So here is my question.

Given a 30 year old Nilsson windlass how much voltage drop can the
Lucas motor handle: 3% or can I get a way with say 6-8% drop? Or will
it just grind away fine on 10% drop????

Also, what about new units? Id like to size the cables knowing that 30
year old pice of electrical equipment will need replacing somtime in
the future and dont want to under size the cables for any future
windlass. What voltage drop is alowable for new units?

I shouldnt be raising more than 500 lbs of gound tackle.
Suggestions?
Bob

On Thu, 15 May 2008 18:17:21 -0700 (PDT), Bob
wrote:

Hi:

Im replacing the two 35' cables to the windlass. Id like to size them
proper but not sure how much voltage drop is alowable.

I went to the Nilsson Website and they listed several North America
service centers. Ive called 6 of them and got message machines or the
tech isnt in now.

So here is my question.

Given a 30 year old Nilsson windlass how much voltage drop can the
Lucas motor handle: 3% or can I get a way with say 6-8% drop? Or will
it just grind away fine on 10% drop????

Also, what about new units? Id like to size the cables knowing that 30
year old pice of electrical equipment will need replacing somtime in
the future and dont want to under size the cables for any future
windlass. What voltage drop is alowable for new units?

I shouldnt be raising more than 500 lbs of gound tackle.
Suggestions?
Bob

Given the price of copper today you are going to spend a lot of dosh!

Questions

Why not just replace with the same CSA as present?
What is the main reason for the change?

--

Richard

Email address is valid but remove burrs before sending!

On May 15, 7:33*pm, Richard Edwards
wrote:


Given the price of copper today you are going to spend a lot of dosh!

Yup..... should did this a few years ago.


Questions
Why not just replace with the same CSA as present?

Well, Im the kind of guy who does not trust the decessions of prior
owners.

What is the main reason for the change?
Richard

Hi Richard:
I am routing a bunch of my wiring and while digging behind shelvs and
bunks I found 2 splices (lugs-3/8" nut/bolt-tape) in both cables and
two spots on one cable that had a nick in the insulation. The necks
had green powder spilling out and the cable was swelled. So I think
replacing is resonable here.

So what voltage drop is resonable for a windlass motor: 3% or 10% or
someplace in-between?
Bob

Bob wrote:
On May 15, 7:33 pm, Richard Edwards
wrote:


Given the price of copper today you are going to spend a lot of dosh!

Yup..... should did this a few years ago.


Questions
Why not just replace with the same CSA as present?

Well, Im the kind of guy who does not trust the decessions of prior
owners.

What is the main reason for the change?
Richard

Hi Richard:
I am routing a bunch of my wiring and while digging behind shelvs and
bunks I found 2 splices (lugs-3/8" nut/bolt-tape) in both cables and
two spots on one cable that had a nick in the insulation. The necks
had green powder spilling out and the cable was swelled. So I think
replacing is resonable here.

So what voltage drop is resonable for a windlass motor: 3% or 10% or
someplace in-between?
Bob

Guy on Ebay from Auburn wa has good prices and is super prompt. Search
on battery cable and sort thru till you find him.
Gordon

On Fri, 16 May 2008 09:52:53 -0700 (PDT), Bob
wrote:

On May 15, 7:33*pm, Richard Edwards
wrote:


Given the price of copper today you are going to spend a lot of dosh!

Yup..... should did this a few years ago.


Questions
Why not just replace with the same CSA as present?

Well, Im the kind of guy who does not trust the decessions of prior
owners.

What is the main reason for the change?
Richard

Hi Richard:
I am routing a bunch of my wiring and while digging behind shelvs and
bunks I found 2 splices (lugs-3/8" nut/bolt-tape) in both cables and
two spots on one cable that had a nick in the insulation. The necks
had green powder spilling out and the cable was swelled. So I think
replacing is resonable here.

So what voltage drop is resonable for a windlass motor: 3% or 10% or
someplace in-between?
Bob
Ok replacement sounds very valid. I cannot comment on cable sizes as I
have no info on the motors discussed. However replacement with the
same size cable as current is still valid. You are replacing because
of crappy connections (which should not be there) and corrossion
damage. If everything worked well with all of these faults then new
cable of the same CSA will also work. Unless you feel that the current
setup is oversized? Given that you may NEED the windlass when your
battery is LOW go for the lowest % you can afford IMHO but no smaller
than existing.

I fully expect your next post to say "Whilst further digging along the
cable route I found more connections with a variety of different size
cables between them". I have seen it before G Welding cable is a
good option though "Calder" discusses moisture penetration IIRC. I
have never seen problems except at badly made lugs but my work is
freshwater inland. With welding cable, Hex crimped lugs and adhesive
line heatshrink the installation would see you through the rest of
your days G

--
Richard

On May 16, 9:42*pm, Electricky Dicky
wrote:

Ok replacement sounds very valid. I cannot comment on cable sizes as I
have no info on the motors discussed. However replacement with the
same size cable as current is still valid. You are replacing because
of crappy connections (which should not be there) and corrossion
damage.

Well it all started re routing some 12 awg conductors then I saw took
a good look at the windlass cables. I guess I looked a little closer
than the surveyor did some years ago and spotted a splice and then
another splice and then......


If everything worked well with all of these faults then new
cable of the same CSA will also work.

Good logic. If workd that way okay it really be good with new.

Unless you feel that the current
setup is oversized? Given that you may NEED the windlass when your
battery is LOW go for the lowest % you can afford IMHO but no smaller
than existing.

Ya, this would be a very descission if I only know the amp load from
the windlass. Hopfully Ill hear from a tech monday.

I fully expect your next post to say "Whilst further digging along the
cable route I found more connections with a variety of different size
cables between them". I have seen it before G



Actually I DID ! I just didnt want to get too long winded over cables.


Thanks for you all your suggestions. It sure helps to have a bunch of
ideas to consider. Options are good !
Bob

On May 15, 5:17*pm, Bob wrote:

Got a call from Maxwell North America in SF a couple days ago from
Joe. A very friendly and helpful guy. He said the old Nilsson winches
were “bruits” and could operate on a 10% voltage drop. He added they
draw about 100 amps. But warned to not exceed the 10% drop.

That’s good news. Based on that I can use 2/0 wire and get a 5% V drop
at 100 amp draw. At 150 amp draw I can still expect 7% V drop with 2/0
wire. Given this info I think Ill install my 150 amp fuse and when it
blows it will remind me to ease off the windlass.

Any thoughts?
bob