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Default Nilsson-Maxwell Windlass 3% or 10% V drop?

On Sun, 18 May 2008 11:55:09 -0400, Jack Erbes

Richard Casady wrote:
On Sat, 17 May 2008 16:42:39 -0700 (PDT), Bob

I hear it works well. But after seeing how the non tinned existing
cables got all puffy at a nick I can see the advanges of all tinned

Welding cables must be very flexible, so they are made of a zillion
very fine wires. This gives them a maximum surface area to corrode.
The ends of any marine cable have to be covered with waterproof
plastic, either something you paint on, or a heat shrunk sleeve.
Otherwise salt will crawl into the cable from the ends.

And this is where I start the never ending, never to be won, argument
for tinning the ends of a wire (either tinned or bare copper) before
putting crimp on terminals on. I do that regularly and have been doing
it for years. I like that it gives you a solid object to crimp down on
and it also keep corrosion from getting started in a bundle of loose

You could solder the joint after crimping. No chance of a corroded
connection that way. They make 375 F melting solder 95% tin and 5%
silver.Fill up any air space with solder instead of, eventually, salt.

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Default Nilsson-Maxwell Windlass 3% or 10% V drop?

On May 15, 5:17*pm, Bob wrote:

Got a call from Maxwell North America in SF a couple days ago from
Joe. A very friendly and helpful guy. He said the old Nilsson winches
were “bruits” and could operate on a 10% voltage drop. He added they
draw about 100 amps. But warned to not exceed the 10% drop.

That’s good news. Based on that I can use 2/0 wire and get a 5% V drop
at 100 amp draw. At 150 amp draw I can still expect 7% V drop with 2/0
wire. Given this info I think Ill install my 150 amp fuse and when it
blows it will remind me to ease off the windlass.

Any thoughts?
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