Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#5
![]()
posted to rec.boats.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Matching cable length, contact resistance etc., for a series or
parallel connection is a total myth. The differences caused from these sources are minor compared to the normal variations found in the chemistry of the battery cells and can be ignored. When in series, the same current flows through the whole circuit and has limitations based on the total resistance of the circuit. An imbalance in the cables is meaningless regarding to loading the batteries since the same identical current flows through all and a slight drop in the total voltage due to a slightly longer cable does not have any "imbalance" problem. When in parallel, it is true that a slightly longer cable or a contact with a few extra milliohms will cause one battery to accept more current than another however it doesn't cause any imbalance. As the batteries approach full charge, the current drops until at full charge it is less than 1% of the initial current. When the current gets to zero, so does the voltage drop along the cables and connections so everything is at the same voltage and there was no imbalance caused by any mismatch. In fact charging in parallel when you need to use them in series is a preferable method. The longer the series chain, the more important equalizing becomes. There will always be one weakest cell in the chain and it will be the first to get discharged when in use, however when charging, the strongest cell will be the first to reach full charge and start gassing. The difference between these is lost capacity in the battery bank. More reading on the subject of equalizing at http://www.yandina.com/troll24Help.htm#Q20. The warnings about ensuring a make before break and having an interlock safety system are appropriate. One mistake and you will have a dead short across one or more batteries with very little resistance between them which can have drastic and dangerous results. If you do attempt this, please put 250 amp circuit breakers or fuses in series with every individual battery. I happen to be very familiar with this subject. We make an automatic series/parallel switch for doing exactly what you want but it is only rated for 85 amps, not 200. It is designed for charging 24 volt trolling motor batteries from 12 volt outboard alternators. See http://www.yandina.com/trollinfo.htm Regards, Ann-Marie Foster, Meindert Sprang wrote: "CS" wrote in message oups.com... The last 250A continuous DC contactor I bought last year was around £20. Vetus and Sidepower do this all the time. But, successful operation depends on equal charging and discharging of the batteries. In fixed installations, this is achived by making the lengths of the connecting cables in the parallel sections equal, to make the resistance in each branch equal. If you do this with relays, there can always be a slight variation in contact resistance (we're talking milliohms here). This will eventually shorten the life cycle of the batteries. Meindert |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Float switch alert retraction. | Cruising | |||
Bilge pump switch | Cruising | |||
78 Merc 200: How to wire mercury kill switch?? | General | |||
Bilge pump switch - again | Cruising | |||
alternator charging to high? | Electronics |