Thanks, Bill,

Bill Kearney wrote:
From that I infer that you do your surfing from the AP to the bridge.
Or, do you have to unhook the ethernet and do it by hooking it to your
NIC? Either way, do you have to make your interface the same IP
family, or can it do it over dhcp?

The shore link client is running DHCP. The in boat device is not, just as
an access point. So when a laptop connects it's getting it's IP address
through the access point from the router. This means there's nothing to do
on the laptops other than select the 'boat' SSID. I never have to connect
any wires to the laptops to handle configuring anything.

Very cool. My current setup requires direct connection to the bridge in
order to set up the shore point to which I connect. And, the NIC has to
be set to the same IP net other than the last number.

The wiring runs from the device in the arch, wired ethernet to a 5 port
switch belowdecks. The in boat device (access point) is also wired into
this. I could've just connected the two directly together but having this
switch gives me some expansion options. Actually, two other ports are
already connected to the Raymarine E-80 and Sirius weather interfaces.
Works great. At some point I'll be connected a 'permanent' PC into the boat
for engine data, logging and web cam and that'll go in the 5th remaining
port.

Gotcha - cool that you didn't need the switch (though, I'm wondering
why, if the AP has ports, you didn't just use those?). Mine crashes
without the router in between. And, I don't currently have a means of
interfacing (other than a single RS232 for the GPS) any of my
electronics to my computer, which I'd like.


I'd had the same idea - but don't know how much power they take.

I'm in a twin engined powerboat. I don't know, nor care about their power
consumption.

:{)) I don't suppose I would, either. In actuality, we probably will
try to maximize our use during wind and sun periods, where we'd
otherwise be in shunt mode due to full batteries (solar and wind).

I'm not the one to task as I've run a separate power line for each of them.
I believe it was 14 gauge wire I used to avoid voltage drop. I've no idea
what Power Over Ethernet would require but I'm sure a web search would be
enlightening.

I'd meant directly - POE uses the ethernet cable itsef, starting with
48V and stepping down to 12V at the end. The actual power consumption
I was wondering about was in the units themselves, leading to what
size direct power source wire I'd need.

Ditto - but mine has the other item in spades, where she can call her
kids and her mother, and for that matter, as she did Sunday, her twin
in Hong Kong and her sister in England, on a three-way, all over wifi.
I have yet to hook up the new Vonage router and double phone set, but I
expect it will do just fine - and it's another 12v item :{))

Yeah, the VOIP thing would certainly be interesting and should we need it
the network's there to support it. But our cell phone coverage and plans
are more than sufficient to handle our calling needs here on the Chesapeake.
Were we calling or travelling internationally we'd certainly look into it.
I've heard plenty of horror stories about Vonage and other lowball VOIP
providers. Mainly that their voice quality sucks (even with excellent
connectivity). Along with that it's easier to get rid of a venereal disease
than to unsubscribe from their services.

That's a very interesting comment(s):

My mother-in-law (England) describes our voice quality as better than
folks calling her locally. Generally speaking, I've heard no complaint
from any one I know on Vonage (perhaps a dozen or more) as their sole
provider of either home or SOHO wired (not counting the cordless ones,
of course, which still have the cord to the wall on at least one unit)
service. That number includes two of my children, who both have V
backfed into their home networks (unhook the NID, plug the RJ11 into
the jack, and now all the jacks in the home are live on Vonage) as the
only telephone service inside. My son, in particular, is very picky;
I'm sure he'd ditch it in a heartbeat if there were problems.

As to lowball poroviders, I don't know what constitutes lowball - when
Skype and other peer-peer services (such as my googletalk which I use
with my son in Ireland cuz he doesn't want to run up cell charges, his
only phone) are free, 15 (basic) or 25 a month (unlimited US, Canada,
UK, Ireland and 3 Euro countries) sounds like highball. Perhaps the
"other" (lowball providers) are an issue - but I can say from direct
experience that CS in Vonage is great; I've changed my service several
times over the course of the time I've had it. If I needed to
disconnect altogether I expect it would be instant. Certainly, it was,
when I dropped my softphone (a separate service, with its own number),
including the unused time of the month credited, once I had my bridge
setup cured. Always instantly available on the phone, change made as I
speak with them, etc.

And, FWIW, while not recently (the recent time I tried it was very
good), attempting Skype to Hong Kong was such a failure when we first
tried we gave up and called back on Vonage (both from my prior home
connection). And any of the peer-peer services, or "softphone" (like
Skype and Vonage dongles of whatever sort) adaptations, require a
computer be on, whether or not you can get away without having to be
tied via a headset or even a blootooth device. Mine just requires the
bridge and the (Vonage) router. Because the router is the base
station, my new setup doesn't even need an RJJ11 device powered up to
have two cordless phones active at the same time, a nicety when both of
us want to talk to someone at the same time :{))

Currently, I'm embroiled in two transmission issues - one in the boat,
the other in the car - so fiddling with the computer stuff is taking
backseat priority. However, I want to try your bridge, as it seems
like it would be superior to mine if I don't have to unhook to make my
shoreside connections. I'd like that a lot :{))

When you put your unit in a NEMA, how big was the box? Did you take
off the case and just do the board, or leave it on?

Thanks.

L8R

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-Bill Kearney

Very cool. My current setup requires direct connection to the bridge in
order to set up the shore point to which I connect. And, the NIC has to
be set to the same IP net other than the last number.

Yeah, different setups might require that. There's probably ways to deal
with that but given the adventures you've had thus far it might be prudent
to just stick with what works for you.

Gotcha - cool that you didn't need the switch (though, I'm wondering
why, if the AP has ports, you didn't just use those?).

Wiring. There's a router in the arch, it has 5 ports on it. Running wires
to it requires going down the gunwales and up the arch, with various
bulkheads and panels along the way. There's an access point in a cabinet in
the main cabin. This placement to facilitate best coverage within the
vessel without spreading it out across the water. Again, getting wires to
this location is the issue. The E-80 chartplotter is in the helm, the
Sirius weather interface is in a panel behind the stairs. There's an
RS-232, a video and an ethernet cable running from the E-80 to the sirius
unit. This location is central to where all the devices wiring passes.

I don't "have to" provide extra ports for the E-80/weather setup. But at
some point I'll be using a PC to interface with those devices. So using a
straight cross-over cable between them wouldn't help the expansion plans.
But using the cabin's access point would've meant running their wires
another 10 feet. That's not a technical limitation but just would've added
more labor. This also lets me disable the access point without having it
affect the weather gear, but also leave shore connections working. Yeah,
it's a few more watts to have the switch running, and at some point I'll
check how much. But I took extra effort to make sure all my devices can use
12v so at least there's no loss from inverters or step-down transformers
(besides the ones in the devices themselves of course).

Mine crashes without the router in between.

Well, given your travails thus far I guess you're stuck.

And, I don't currently have a means of
interfacing (other than a single RS232 for the GPS) any of my
electronics to my computer, which I'd like.

I'll be adding a PC to the mix probably over the winter. I'll use that as a
means to bridge a number of things. I've got a waterproof mouse and
keyboard and the PC is an old laptop with a video out. So I'll probably
either use the TV or the E-80 as a display for it. That PC will presumably
allow me to do some more clever things with webcam and GPS. That and the PC
can act as a 'gateway' of sorts of sharing the other NMEA buss data.

I'm in a twin engined powerboat. I don't know, nor care about their
power
consumption.

:{)) I don't suppose I would, either. In actuality, we probably will
try to maximize our use during wind and sun periods, where we'd
otherwise be in shunt mode due to full batteries (solar and wind).

Well, I do care somewhat, if only to avoid having the gear drain the ship's
battery if AC isn't available. I've got a Blue Sea voltage limiter that'll
get installed eventually. I'd rather have it kill the gadgets than run my
battery down. Well, that and adding more batteries to the ship's system
circuit. this winter. A couple of golf cart type cells are likely additions
to help make sure I've got enough to keep all the toys running.

I'd meant directly - POE uses the ethernet cable itsef, starting with
48V and stepping down to 12V at the end. The actual power consumption
I was wondering about was in the units themselves, leading to what
size direct power source wire I'd need.

Go back over to alt.internet.wireless and pose the question. Or STFW for
websites related to neighborhood wifi. I suppose the first step would be to
get actual wattage needs for your gear. Then estimate or measure the actual
distance and then do the math. I didn't bother and just took the 'use
thicker gauge' shortcut. Viking's going of business sale made it a cheap
decision to go with heavier gauge wire than might be "required".

My mother-in-law (England) describes our voice quality as better than
folks calling her locally. Generally speaking, I've heard no complaint
from any one I know on Vonage

The main risks of complaint are encoder quality and bandwidth. It doesn't
matter if it's free or low cost if it's ****ty service. If you're on a link
that's congested you will get reduced audio quality and interruptions. If
there's good network routing along the entire path then it's less likely.
Audio requires not just a 'fast connection' but one that's free of
congestion. It's no good to have a fast link if it's got high latency.

but I can say from direct
experience that CS in Vonage is great

Then keep your fingers crossed. Your experience does not parallel that of
others who've reported considerable difficult getting effective support.
But then again those with problems are the one's making noise, right?

And any of the peer-peer services, or "softphone" (like
Skype and Vonage dongles of whatever sort) adaptations, require a
computer be on, whether or not you can get away without having to be
tied via a headset or even a blootooth device.

Well, there's a good chance that'll change. But as you point out VoIP has
ATA devices that don't require a PC. Of course, what consitutes a PC these
days can nearly come as close to a black box when it comes to size and power
limitations. Not usually as cheaply though.

Mine just requires the
bridge and the (Vonage) router. Because the router is the base
station, my new setup doesn't even need an RJJ11 device powered up to
have two cordless phones active at the same time, a nicety when both of
us want to talk to someone at the same time :{))

Just make sure you're not using 2.4gHz cordless phones. No sense making
your wifi troubles worse..

However, I want to try your bridge, as it seems
like it would be superior to mine if I don't have to unhook to make my
shoreside connections.

I'm hesitant to suggest how to work around your situations limits as it's
unclear just what sort of mess you've finally gotten working. For me it was
easy, from the get-go I assumed I'd have to use two different routers as
there's only one radio in a router. I knew I'd have to use one to speak tot
the shore and another one entirely to cover devices on the boat. Thus the
devices on the boat always have their own network. The shore link device
always has a static address on that network. So the laptops always connect
to the access point and thus always have a link to the shore interface
device. It *may* be possible, in your situation, to do the same. But given
the confusion of posts surrounding your setup I really can't say.

When you put your unit in a NEMA, how big was the box? Did you take
off the case and just do the board, or leave it on?

Heh, I skipped the enclosure entirely. I just bought another router. The
one that's inside the arch isn't enclosed at all (at least not yet). The
access panel is only 6" round but it's hole is about 7". So I disassembled
the router, put it's pieces in through the hole and reassembled it. I'll
eventually stuff it inside a ziploc with some sort of fittings and a bunch
of silica gel packets. But given how cheaply another router was I've been
putting it off...

-Bill Kearney