Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#7
![]()
posted to rec.boats.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Glenn Ashmore wrote: I have been offered a really good deal on a high amp (325 amp) fire engine alternator by the city vehicle maintenance shop. It was purchased as a test unit but due to some budget cutbacks ended up being to expensive to equip the whole fleet. This monster is hot rated at 200 amps at 2,000 rpm and 275 amps at 4000 rpm. I am thinking about buying it and keeping the 200 amp Leece Neville as a spare. My battery bank is 850AH of L16HC wet cells that can take 200 amps in bulk charge. Is my Xantrex smart regulator going to keep this monster from cooking my battery bank? -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com Everything you attach to the engine reduces the HP output. How much, good question. But having an alternator that is far bigger than your needs is a waste. Additionally, to make use of that power you need to get it to the battery banks. If the wire between the alternator and battery is too small to handle the current, or the wire between the battery and load center (electrical pannel) is too small, it could burn up under a heavy load if it's not fused properly. Your probably going to end up cooking something, lets hope it's not the boat while your on it. Also, if it's not CG approved, and you have a fire because of it, your insurance company is going to walk away, it's your problem. I'd stick with the normal marine alternator if I was you. John |