"Capt John" wrote

Everything you attach to the engine reduces the HP output. How much,
good question. But having an alternator that is far bigger than your
needs is a waste. Additionally, to make use of that power you need to
get it to the battery banks. If the wire between the alternator and
battery is too small to handle the current, or the wire between the
battery and load center (electrical pannel) is too small, it could burn
up under a heavy load if it's not fused properly. Your probably going
to end up cooking something, lets hope it's not the boat while your on
it. Also, if it's not CG approved, and you have a fire because of it,
your insurance company is going to walk away, it's your problem. I'd
stick with the normal marine alternator if I was you.


No real problem there. Because if the higher efficiency the HP charts say
it will take less power than the 200A Leese Neville that is in there now. I
have 4/0 to the 850AH bank and the inverter and 2/0 to the breaker panel.
At idle speed it will theoretically put out up to 240 amps which will cover
the 225A the battery bank needs in bulk mode with a little left over for
house loads.

The alternator is an Eco Tech 305. Apparently they are becoming popular
with the commercial fishing boats in the NW. The regulator is set for 14.4
volts so while it may take a little longer in bulk mode it will be just
right for absorption. I just need to figure a way to turn it off when
motoring through a couple of days of no wind. Not a good idea to hold a
fully charged battery at 14.4V for very long.

Go2Marine has them on their site listed at $2K. The city is asking $375. I
think I am going to take them up on it. :-)


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Capt John" wrote in news:1153072859.862252.17460
@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com:

Also, if it's not CG approved, and you have a fire because of it,
your insurance company is going to walk away, it's your problem. I'd
stick with the normal marine alternator if I was you.



I think THAT is a very important point, too....





---------
Press 1 for English
Press 2 to disconnect until you learn English

There used to be a manual alternator regulator called an Automac, sold by
Weems & Plath - This allowed the alternator output to be manually adjusted.
These are no longer sold, but perhaps someone else sells something like
that? Or perhaps drive it through a clutch that can be disengaged and keep
a smaller alternator in service?

I can understand that the price is attractive, but I would be careful with
that beast! Unless of course, if you plan on doing some welding Usually
better to have multiple smaller units. Ventilation and cooling may need to
be addressed - will you get enough cooling in your engine room as compared
with the intended installation for those units?

BUT, if you have the HP to drive it, it does sound like an interesting
unit - especially the low speed output.

GBM

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:ulwug.165$ok5.148@dukeread01...


No real problem there. Because if the higher efficiency the HP charts say
it will take less power than the 200A Leese Neville that is in there now.
I
have 4/0 to the 850AH bank and the inverter and 2/0 to the breaker panel.
At idle speed it will theoretically put out up to 240 amps which will
cover
the 225A the battery bank needs in bulk mode with a little left over for
house loads.

The alternator is an Eco Tech 305. Apparently they are becoming popular
with the commercial fishing boats in the NW. The regulator is set for
14.4
volts so while it may take a little longer in bulk mode it will be just
right for absorption. I just need to figure a way to turn it off when
motoring through a couple of days of no wind. Not a good idea to hold a
fully charged battery at 14.4V for very long.

Go2Marine has them on their site listed at $2K. The city is asking $375.
I
think I am going to take them up on it. :-)


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

This thing uses a J-180 mount same as the Leece Neville so it will basically
be a drop in. Also supposed to generate less heat so the duct work I
installed for the LN should be more than adequate.

The weird thing about this alternator is that the primary magnetic field is
from the permanent magnets on the rotor so as long as it is turning it is
generating power. The way you turn it off is to run the field current in
reverse to cancel out the magnets. That greatly increase the efficiency but
means it can't use a normal external regulator.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"GBM" wrote in message
...
There used to be a manual alternator regulator called an Automac, sold by
Weems & Plath - This allowed the alternator output to be manually
adjusted.
These are no longer sold, but perhaps someone else sells something like
that? Or perhaps drive it through a clutch that can be disengaged and
keep
a smaller alternator in service?

I can understand that the price is attractive, but I would be careful with
that beast! Unless of course, if you plan on doing some welding
Usually
better to have multiple smaller units. Ventilation and cooling may need
to
be addressed - will you get enough cooling in your engine room as compared
with the intended installation for those units?

BUT, if you have the HP to drive it, it does sound like an interesting
unit - especially the low speed output.

GBM

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:ulwug.165$ok5.148@dukeread01...


No real problem there. Because if the higher efficiency the HP charts
say
it will take less power than the 200A Leese Neville that is in there now.
I
have 4/0 to the 850AH bank and the inverter and 2/0 to the breaker panel.
At idle speed it will theoretically put out up to 240 amps which will
cover
the 225A the battery bank needs in bulk mode with a little left over for
house loads.

The alternator is an Eco Tech 305. Apparently they are becoming popular
with the commercial fishing boats in the NW. The regulator is set for
14.4
volts so while it may take a little longer in bulk mode it will be just
right for absorption. I just need to figure a way to turn it off when
motoring through a couple of days of no wind. Not a good idea to hold a
fully charged battery at 14.4V for very long.

Go2Marine has them on their site listed at $2K. The city is asking $375.
I
think I am going to take them up on it. :-)


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Larry wrote:
"Capt John" wrote in news:1153072859.862252.17460
@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com:

Also, if it's not CG approved, and you have a fire because of it,
your insurance company is going to walk away, it's your problem. I'd
stick with the normal marine alternator if I was you.



I think THAT is a very important point, too....

Doesn't the CG requirement kick in only
for gasoline engines? I doubt the
insurance company could walk if the
engine is diesel.

Chuck

chuck wrote:
Larry wrote:
"Capt John" wrote in news:1153072859.862252.17460
@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com:

Also, if it's not CG approved, and you have a fire because of it,
your insurance company is going to walk away, it's your problem. I'd
stick with the normal marine alternator if I was you.



I think THAT is a very important point, too....

Doesn't the CG requirement kick in only
for gasoline engines? I doubt the
insurance company could walk if the
engine is diesel.

Chuck

chuck wrote:
Larry wrote:
"Capt John" wrote in news:1153072859.862252.17460
@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com:

Also, if it's not CG approved, and you have a fire because of it,
your insurance company is going to walk away, it's your problem. I'd
stick with the normal marine alternator if I was you.



I think THAT is a very important point, too....

Doesn't the CG requirement kick in only
for gasoline engines? I doubt the
insurance company could walk if the
engine is diesel.

Chuck

The CG requirement is for diesel as well, diesel fuel burns quite well.
Cracked high pressure diesel fuel lines can produce a very fine fuel
mist, and it makes for one hell of a fire if it hits a spark or a hot
dry turbo. Give an insurance company an excuse to walk away from paying
on a loss and watch how fast they run. That's what they pay their
people to do. I looked quickly at my Cat alternator part numbers, they
look like differant part numbers than the truck numbers in the catalog.
It just isn't worth it.

The surveyor that my insurance company hired to monitor my progress has seen
the Leese Neville which is not "USCG approved" and accepted it with out
reservation.

Actually neither 46 CFR 176 or 46 CFR 183 require approval of alternators in
diesel powered environments. The only source I can find that recommends
using only marine approved alternators is our friend David Pasco and he even
has the reference to the requirements wrong. J1527 is specific to hose
standards, not alternators.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Capt John" wrote in message
ups.com...

chuck wrote:
Larry wrote:
"Capt John" wrote in news:1153072859.862252.17460
@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com:

Also, if it's not CG approved, and you have a fire because of it,
your insurance company is going to walk away, it's your problem. I'd
stick with the normal marine alternator if I was you.



I think THAT is a very important point, too....

Doesn't the CG requirement kick in only
for gasoline engines? I doubt the
insurance company could walk if the
engine is diesel.

Chuck

The CG requirement is for diesel as well, diesel fuel burns quite well.
Cracked high pressure diesel fuel lines can produce a very fine fuel
mist, and it makes for one hell of a fire if it hits a spark or a hot
dry turbo. Give an insurance company an excuse to walk away from paying
on a loss and watch how fast they run. That's what they pay their
people to do. I looked quickly at my Cat alternator part numbers, they
look like differant part numbers than the truck numbers in the catalog.
It just isn't worth it.

Capt John wrote:
chuck wrote:
Larry wrote:
"Capt John" wrote in news:1153072859.862252.17460
@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com:

Also, if it's not CG approved, and you have a fire because of it,
your insurance company is going to walk away, it's your problem. I'd
stick with the normal marine alternator if I was you.


I think THAT is a very important point, too....
Doesn't the CG requirement kick in only
for gasoline engines? I doubt the
insurance company could walk if the
engine is diesel.

Chuck

The CG requirement is for diesel as well, diesel fuel burns quite well.
Cracked high pressure diesel fuel lines can produce a very fine fuel
mist, and it makes for one hell of a fire if it hits a spark or a hot
dry turbo. Give an insurance company an excuse to walk away from paying
on a loss and watch how fast they run. That's what they pay their
people to do. I looked quickly at my Cat alternator part numbers, they
look like differant part numbers than the truck numbers in the catalog.
It just isn't worth it.


Capt. John, I'd really like to see a
cite for the specific USCG regulation
that requires ignition-protected
alternators on diesel engines. 33 CFR
183.410 addresses only gasoline, and
even then gives a pass if the gasoline
is on the other side of a bulkhead, etc.

Here is the applicability paragraph
(183.401) for ignition protection:

(a) This subpart applies to all boats
that have gasoline engines, except
outboard engines, for electrical
generation, mechanical power, or propulsion.


FWIW, I'm not advocating anything and am
making no judgment here on what is and
isn't worth it. I'm simply seeking
clarification on what the regs actually
say.

Chuck

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Glen,

Have you considered biasing the voltage sense line, to adjust the regulator
output voltage?

Peter Albright,
Tampa, FL
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:BV3ug.44$ok5.9@dukeread01...

"Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote

Actually, the alternator will put out whatever the battery and loads
require. Unless you are charging a huge battery bank and/or have 200 A
load connected to it, it won't put out that much. Given the electrical
(and mechanical) losses, the input HP will be whatever are needed to
provide the electrical output. The larger alternator will have lower
electrical losses, but higher mechanical. All in all, this unit won't
present a mechanical load significantly different than a smaller
alternator.

That's just it. There will definitely be a heavy load on it. When it
cranks up every morning it will be seeing a 900AH battery bank ready to
take the first 225 amps in bulk mode.

This unit must be matched to the appropriate regulator. If you didn't
get one with the alternator, the deal may not have been that good.

It has the regulator built in. Pretty interesting one too. Even has a
battery voltage sense connection. However the regulator does not have a
way to change from bulk to absorption to float modes and there is no
equalization. The shore power charger can handle the equalization and
with my normal use pattern of 50% to 85% charge will rarely need float
except at the dock but it would be nice to have optomized bulk and
absorption ability.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com