Andrew,

Your buss bar plan sounds real good.

My boat does not have any metalic through hulls at all, and it doesn't
even have keel bolts. The only through hull is for the speed/log.

The bonding ground is really to prevent electrolysis by preventing a
differential potential between fittings. With an inboard you are stuck
with metal in the water - we are not.

Matt




AD wrote:
Matt,

Did you wire the negative to the battery negative or are you using another
ground point like a thru hull?

I am planning to take all negatives to the negative bus bar and then a
single wire from the bus bar to the battery.

Andrew

"Matt Colie" wrote in message
...

Andrew,
Your plan is good. But I will mention two things that I have developed as
good rules.
With a rewire, install as many too many ciruits as you can fit. If you
can make or buy panels with a good deal of open space for additional
circuits - great.
Set the system up with only one(1){uno}[ichi] solitary connection per
battery post. This will not be hard to do if you plan it, and the amount
of confusion it saves is amazing.
My trailerable can carry two batteries for cruising and has an electric
start outboard. So, I got a 3/8 brass bolt to be the negative junction
and put it near the battery switch for convenience.
Matt Colie

AD wrote:

Hi,

I have recently downsized to a trailable yacht from a keelboat and I have
to re-do the electrical system ( old one doesn't work and is such a mess,
I'm starting from scratch). On my keelboat, all the negatives from
batteries and appliances( via a negative bus bar) were routed to a
negative common post and then to ground on the engine.

On the new boat, there is no external ground as such ( outboard powered
and no through hulls below waterline). Question is, do I just run a cable
from the negative bus direct to the negative battery terminal or is there
a better way to do this?

Any help appreciated.

Andrew