I'm still a novice boat owner so I was hoping someone would be able to help
me out....
I have a 17foot runabout, The outboard is a Johnson V4, I think its about
1975... so kinda old....

You may or may not have seen my post about batteries a few days ago...
anyway I ended up buying a new 15 plate 600CCA battery, hooked it up to my
motor and after a few minutes I got it going.....

I haven't used the boat for about 3 months.... I played with the steering
every so often, but never started the engine because the battery was flat
and I never bothered to charge it..... so now I have new battery and now
for the questions

During starting the battery.... when I turn the key.... it does it chug
chug chug as it tries to start..... but then it started making another
noise.... like umm iti would go chug chug for a bit..... but then it would
go eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee....

Its that maybe the starter motor coming off the flywheel(I think thats what
the big round thing is called)??? If so why would it do that???? It started
to do it more and more.

The process I was told to start the engine, is to pump fuel to the engine
with the little black pump, until it starts to get hard....
Push the idle stick thing to start, turn the key to on, then push it for
about 10 seconds(I later found out this is the choke)..... then turn it to
start. Should I release the choke when trying to start??? I try all
different combinations when I'm trying to start the thing, so I don't know
the correct way

To stop the engine, I was told I have to push in the key again and turn to
the start position, the engine then stops.....
When the engine is running, I used to be able to turn the key off and take
the key out, and the engine kept going... just my fuel gauge etc turned off
as they are wired in after the switch, which is obvious....
What I noticed now though, if when I turn the key to off now, the engine
stops immediately...... If it did this all along then I would think
nothing of it..... it works just like a car now Turn the key one way to
start, the the key back the other way to stop..... But I'm a little
worried, cause it never used to do that... What could be wrong??? I could
this be right??? I ran the motor for about 10 minutes once it was
started...... I stoped and started it a few times near the end to from
this key switch thing.... every time the engine stops when I turn the key
back....


Another thing I noticed.... the water pump....in my last service back in
Feb/March they cleared the water pump pipes out as it wasn't pumping out
enough water. So I've always kept a close eye on that and I know it was
working very well last time I used the boat....
But at first, no water was coming out.... made me get a bit worried.... I
cranked the hose up, and eventually water started coming out..... hot at
first... then it cooled down...... then it got really hot again (the water
coming out the little hole) and the tempurature alarm starting going off for
a bit..... it stoped after about 30 seconds, and the water cooled a
little..... while it was running for the next 5 or so minutes, the water
coming out was warm as it normally is, so that was a good sign..... Just
wondering, since I haven't used the boat for a while..... could the 2
stroke fuel mixture have settled and therefore the correct mixture is not
going to the battery??? I just don't know why it was warm... then suddenly
really hot.... then back to normal....
I'm planning on taking the boat out into this water this weekend..... so
from what I have said, I hope no one is going to tell me I have major
problems with the engine.....
This engine turning off issue is worrying me.

While I'm here..... My other battery isn't too bad, so I was like get a
switch and have the two batteries setup.... a few questions about this...
Does it matter that the two batteries are of different type/age??? (I think
they have pretty similar specs. but one is a few years old).

If I setup my new main starting battery as 1, and my other battery for
accessories as 2... Can I turn the switch to use both 1 and 2 when I'm
starting to get an extra boost??? Or is this a bad idea? Should I only use
one battery to start....ANd switch to both when I want to charge both....

If I start the engine on 1, then switch over to 2, do those switches have
any kind of break in the circuit??? Based on what I've said above, during
switching to the other, if I loose power for a split second, the engine will
stop.

I've seen these switches range in price from $20 - $100... they look
similar, just wondering what the difference is??? Do the more expensive
ones do a smoother switch over??
How do they get wired? Do I connect all the negatives together (from both
batteries, accessories, ignition), then the positive goes to COMMON, and
the positive of the batteries go to 1 and 2??

One of the switches I saw a couple of other smaller terminls... I think they
said T1 and T2... what are they for??

Sorry for all the questions... I've gotta learn somehow
I think thats about it for now.. thanks in advance!

"GC" wrote in message
...
I'm still a novice boat owner so I was hoping someone would be able to
help
me out....
I have a 17foot runabout, The outboard is a Johnson V4, I think its about
1975... so kinda old....

I don't have time to address your questions, but some of the issues seem to
relate to the boat sitting around too long without being started. If you
don't already own one, go right out & buy one of those things you hook up to
a garden hose and place over your cooling water intakes, so you can start
the motor in your driveway. Start the motor more often so you find problems
BEFORE the boat's in the water.

Or....maybe you're already doing this, in which case, never mind. :-)

Yeah I am already using one of them..... I mentioned in my email about the
water going into the motor..... thats how I was doing it... with those ear
muff things with a garden hose in teh driveway... and yeah I shoudl have
started it more regularly... but some of these things don't sounds related
to not starting for a while... like the swithcing off things....


"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...

"GC" wrote in message
...
I'm still a novice boat owner so I was hoping someone would be able to
help
me out....
I have a 17foot runabout, The outboard is a Johnson V4, I think its
about
1975... so kinda old....

I don't have time to address your questions, but some of the issues seem
to
relate to the boat sitting around too long without being started. If you
don't already own one, go right out & buy one of those things you hook up
to
a garden hose and place over your cooling water intakes, so you can start
the motor in your driveway. Start the motor more often so you find
problems
BEFORE the boat's in the water.

Or....maybe you're already doing this, in which case, never mind. :-)

GC,
In a four stroke engine, when you turn the ignition off and the engine
keeps running it's called dieseling. It can be caused by the timing being
off. I've heard of carbon build up in the cylinder can also get hot enough
to cause ignition. How this relates to a two strike I'm not sure.
Paul

"GC" wrote in message
...

snipped

Yes it is a lot.

About the engine stopping when the key is turned off. This is odd. I am
not really familiar with outboards but these symptoms would seem to
indicate an electrical charging problem. When running is the battery
charging or are the engine's electrics being supplied by the battery?
Check the voltage on the battery when the engine is stopped and when
running. When stopped it could be between 11 and 14 volts (not usually
as high at 14 though unless only just fully charged). When running the
engine should be charging the battery and the voltage should be close to
14 volts. If not it is not charging you key being switched to off must
be removing the only power (the battery) from the engine which is
probably only for the sparks.

"GC" wrote in message ...
I'm still a novice boat owner so I was hoping someone would be able to help
me out....
I have a 17foot runabout, The outboard is a Johnson V4, I think its about
1975... so kinda old....

You may or may not have seen my post about batteries a few days ago...
anyway I ended up buying a new 15 plate 600CCA battery, hooked it up to my
motor and after a few minutes I got it going.....

I haven't used the boat for about 3 months.... I played with the steering
every so often, but never started the engine because the battery was flat
and I never bothered to charge it..... so now I have new battery and now
for the questions

During starting the battery.... when I turn the key.... it does it chug
chug chug as it tries to start..... but then it started making another
noise.... like umm iti would go chug chug for a bit..... but then it would
go eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee....

Its that maybe the starter motor coming off the flywheel(I think thats what
the big round thing is called)??? If so why would it do that???? It started
to do it more and more.

The process I was told to start the engine, is to pump fuel to the engine
with the little black pump, until it starts to get hard....
Push the idle stick thing to start, turn the key to on, then push it for
about 10 seconds(I later found out this is the choke)..... then turn it to
start. Should I release the choke when trying to start??? I try all
different combinations when I'm trying to start the thing, so I don't know
the correct way

To stop the engine, I was told I have to push in the key again and turn to
the start position, the engine then stops.....
When the engine is running, I used to be able to turn the key off and take
the key out, and the engine kept going... just my fuel gauge etc turned off
as they are wired in after the switch, which is obvious....
What I noticed now though, if when I turn the key to off now, the engine
stops immediately...... If it did this all along then I would think
nothing of it..... it works just like a car now Turn the key one way to
start, the the key back the other way to stop..... But I'm a little
worried, cause it never used to do that... What could be wrong??? I could
this be right??? I ran the motor for about 10 minutes once it was
started...... I stoped and started it a few times near the end to from
this key switch thing.... every time the engine stops when I turn the key
back....


Another thing I noticed.... the water pump....in my last service back in
Feb/March they cleared the water pump pipes out as it wasn't pumping out
enough water. So I've always kept a close eye on that and I know it was
working very well last time I used the boat....
But at first, no water was coming out.... made me get a bit worried.... I
cranked the hose up, and eventually water started coming out..... hot at
first... then it cooled down...... then it got really hot again (the water
coming out the little hole) and the tempurature alarm starting going off for
a bit..... it stoped after about 30 seconds, and the water cooled a
little..... while it was running for the next 5 or so minutes, the water
coming out was warm as it normally is, so that was a good sign..... Just
wondering, since I haven't used the boat for a while..... could the 2
stroke fuel mixture have settled and therefore the correct mixture is not
going to the battery??? I just don't know why it was warm... then suddenly
really hot.... then back to normal....
I'm planning on taking the boat out into this water this weekend..... so
from what I have said, I hope no one is going to tell me I have major
problems with the engine.....
This engine turning off issue is worrying me.

While I'm here..... My other battery isn't too bad, so I was like get a
switch and have the two batteries setup.... a few questions about this...
Does it matter that the two batteries are of different type/age??? (I think
they have pretty similar specs. but one is a few years old).

If I setup my new main starting battery as 1, and my other battery for
accessories as 2... Can I turn the switch to use both 1 and 2 when I'm
starting to get an extra boost??? Or is this a bad idea? Should I only use
one battery to start....ANd switch to both when I want to charge both....

If I start the engine on 1, then switch over to 2, do those switches have
any kind of break in the circuit??? Based on what I've said above, during
switching to the other, if I loose power for a split second, the engine will
stop.

I've seen these switches range in price from $20 - $100... they look
similar, just wondering what the difference is??? Do the more expensive
ones do a smoother switch over??
How do they get wired? Do I connect all the negatives together (from both
batteries, accessories, ignition), then the positive goes to COMMON, and
the positive of the batteries go to 1 and 2??

One of the switches I saw a couple of other smaller terminls... I think they
said T1 and T2... what are they for??

Sorry for all the questions... I've gotta learn somehow
I think thats about it for now.. thanks in advance!


the starter thing is normal, the water thing sounds normal, you
guessed right for the switch wiring. if for some reason your engine
stops becasue your ignition switch has failed, lift the cowl
disconnect the large red plug, jump the starter solenoid and drive
home.
the choke thing you were told is wrong. johnrude didnt start putting
primer chokes until the 90's your engine has mechanical butterly
chokes. simply push to choke and turn the key with the advance lever
up. " once started " feather the choke until the engine is warm, about
60 seconds.
the battery switch, never switch across the off position while the
engine is running, if your batteries are different age, condition etc
never leave on the both position for extended periods, perhaps only
for hard starting.
finally, buy a decent set of earmuffs and make sure they make good
contact around the pickups and you should be ok.
a problem early v4 johnrudes had was lack of service for the
thermostats because they are difficult to get at, dont shy away from
this, many o'heat issues were caused because of this. the water pump
is only a small part of the cooling system and having it serviced was
a start.

"Paul Schilter" paulschilter@comcast,dot,net wrote in message ...
GC,
In a four stroke engine, when you turn the ignition off and the engine
keeps running it's called dieseling. It can be caused by the timing being
off. I've heard of carbon build up in the cylinder can also get hot enough
to cause ignition. How this relates to a two strike I'm not sure.
Paul

"GC" wrote in message
...

snipped

2strokes will run on sometimes, usually from hot spots. early 70's
johnrudes actually had an anti reverse device under the flywheel to
prevent run on backwards.
in 75 however electronic packs/cdi had progressed past this point.