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#1
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What is the 'speed to length ratio"? Are you referring to square root of the
waterline? Paul www.jcruiser.org "Tom Webb" wrote in message om... Glenn Ashmore wrote Matt/Meribeth Pedersen wrote: In passagemaking, I don't see the moderate displacement boats burning up the miles significantly faster than the heavy displacement ones. I do think that you need to have adequate sail area to make a decent passage, but when you're cruising, trying to keep the boat speed up over about 1.2 sqrt WL is just too much trouble. As long as you are powered up, then waterline length is going to govern. Half a knot to a knot means a lot on a passage. That is 12 to 24 miles a day which adds up pretty nicely on a 5 or 6 day run. Most of the time you are not going to be driving at hull speed so a boat that can easily be driven in light winds has a definite advantage. OTOH, the quicker motion of the medium displacement boat can get a bit tiring. I have spent the last three years cruising the Pacific in my 42 foot medium displacement catamaran and I have observed the cruising fleet closly. A speed to length ratio of 1.2 is very fast for passages outside of the trades (eg. the islands to New Zealand). Most couples sail and motor their boats to an S/L of about 0.8 over time, but many are slower and few are much faster. Heavier boats are typically motored more often and at higher speeds than lighter ones, so the daily runs are similar. Some couples who don't like sailing as such and aren't very advanced sailors love long term cruising and some very good sailors don't. Most cruising is done at anchor anyway. It's hard to know what kind of boat will meet your needs best before you get into the life style, and, given all the boat modification that I see in New Zealand, I'd guess that most folks don't guess exactly right. I think a cruising boat should at the very least have a dry, warm place to stand watch and the ability to make ground to weather in 20-25 knots of wind without beating the crew up very much. However, given the right attitude and a bit of good luck, most any boat will get you where you want to go. BTW, motion in a seaway is largely a function of a small waterplane area to displacment. Multihulls, with their narrow hulls, can make comfortable sea boats even at light displacements. Cheers, -- Tom. |
#2
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"Paul L" wrote in message ...
What is the 'speed to length ratio"? Are you referring to square root of the waterline? Paul Yes, the speed to length ratio is the speed of the boat divided by the square root of it's sailing length. The units are feet and knots. The ratio gives a feel for how fast a boat is when corrected for length. A speed to length ratio of 1.34 is the speed of the wave that has a length equal to the sailing length of the boat and is called the "hull speed". Hull speed is a topic that has been discussed to death on this board in the past, but you could google it if you really want to know. Anyway, the speed/length ratio comes out in weird units (feet per radical knots) so it has been replaced by the Froude number in most new work... Cheers, -- Tom |
#3
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In article , Bart
wrote: I have a TY37, so consider that I have a bias towards them. Are boats like the Tayana 37 still popular and still a good choice for ocean crossings? Yup, they are still popular. A 'good' one will only take a week or two to sell. The Tayana yard just delivered a new TY37 pilothouse - still in production but obviously not as in demand as before .... design is getting a little ' long in the tooth' and is subject to poor prior maintenance. I've crawled in and out of a few boats during the past couple weeks and it looks to me that the heavy displacment boats are just built a lot better than the mid to light displacement ones. This is especially true in the price range I can afford (less than $100k). I would say that 'heavies' are too overbuilt. The laminate schedules are probably waaaaaaaay to thick and were produced in a non-continuous process resulting in a much thicker but ultimately weaker structure than by todays standards of good yards. Until recently, yards would be on an ~8 hour basis, leaving the uncompleted laminate to cure overnight before starting again the morning. The result is a weak bond between the partly cured layers. Ultra-modern layup is vacuum bagged, almost continuous, and may even be done under refrigerated conditions to ensure a complete bond between layers. The result is vastly stronger and much lighter weight structure. Most of the heavy displacement boats also have more storage because the tanks are usually located in the bilge leaving the settees free for storage. This appears to be another plus. Nah.... most of the heavies NEED tank-ballast in the bilge because they have encapsulated keels (of cement and iron, etc.) ..... making the the underwater profile of keel ***width*** to length somewhat ridiculous by todays standards. Personally, I think most of the 'heavies' are too 'top-heavy' also. When comparing open ocean vessels, Is the performace between a heavy and mid displacment boat really all that much different? If not, then maybe I wouldn't get bored with a lower performance heavy displacment vessel. I'm not sure about this and would like comments. Yes there is a significant difference. An easily driven lightweight hull typically depends a lot on form stability (beam, etc.) while the 'heavy' depends more on ballast. The lighter weight is more easily driven, allows a vastly smaller sail plan (usually a fractional rig), accelerates faster when tacking, etc. Heavies are usually old fashioned spoon bowed - resulting in a shorter waterline length, while light weights are usually 'knuckle bowed' - longer water line length = FASTER. A heavy will usually have a slower roll period while the lightweight will be have a much faster roll period .... choice depends on which roll period makes you puke. Especially when loaded in the ends, a short water line length heavy will hobby-horse more than a knuckle-bowed, fat assed lightweight. Most heavy displacement boats have bow sprits. If a boat has a 5' bowsprit, do you add that into the total length of the boat when computing moorage charges? It would be ashame to get charged for 42' when the boat is only has 37' on deck and 37' of living space. Huh? you live in the cockpit.... the 'living-space' is for stores. A TY37 is ~43 LOA .... but when coming into a marina, I just tell them its a Tayana 37 and let the sprit hang out in the fairway, most marinas are too lazy to look ... all they hear is 37. I have a 'fold-up' stern davit that removes another 4 ft. Buy a good set of anchors and dinghy in. As you can see, I'm still having trouble finding a suitable boat. I want something to liveaboard here in Alaska and in 3 years take off and at least sail the S. Pacific if not farther. If you're not out to beat any trans-ocean speed records, a heavy will do just fine. Its the total miles not the speed of passage that counts. Need to get there faster, take a plane. If you need to show off, get a Donzi or a Hobie. A well prepared heavy: faired hull and keel, baby's-ass smooth bottom, feathering prop, well cut and well set/shaped sails, etc. will be an incredible performance boost on any 'heavy', especially for light air. A cutter rig with a removable jibstay is great for 'coastal' work, just dont believe ANYTHNG you've ever read about the disadvantages of a staysail. .... all BS. If you opt for a cutter, get a staysail boom, just keep your knees and head clear A boomed staysail (needs a vang) is self-tacking, keeps its shape on a reach, run, etc. - learn to become an instant flat-spot on the foredeck if all goes wrong. Most 'heavies' you find will have the bottom smoothness of a hand-laid tarmac or dirt road - bottom paint put on with a GD thick knapped roller, through-hulls sticking out all over the place like carbunckles, a 3 or 4 blade fixed prop (might as well drag a wash tub), the sails will usually be beyond blown-out bed sheets, all the weight in the bow and stern ..... typically Winnebagos with sails. Light winds.... no problem for heavy with a smooth/fair bottom and good sails. I occasionally race my TY37 'tub' with quite surprising results (boat is highly underated by PHRF). Once you get up to hull speed, it doesnt make any difference if its a heavy or a light weight, although the modern lightweights can point MUCH better. If you have any racing experience, apply that to a 'heavy' and you have a secure, relatively fast (not a racehorse), safe passagemaker. Consider Robert Perry, Robert Harris, etc. designs .... proven designs. More Perry designs have circumnavigated than any designer: Tayana, Tashiba, Baba, Valiant, Passport, etc. etc. .... that ought to tell you something. If I had it to do all over again, I'd opt for external ballast, split underbody with a balanced spade rudder. If I were in the market for a brand new blue-water boat, I really lean towards a deep fin external keel (with a not-so-flat bottom), with a balanced spade rudder (perhpas giving up the supreme advantage of being able to totally heave-to in quiet stability). I dont think that 'weight' buys you anything. My ultimate 'dream boat ' would be a Millennia (or Tollycraft) **FastPassage 39**, (PHRF ~115). A faster boat can 'avoid' the weather a little better. Stay away from the old 'rule beaters' - narrow / short waterline lengths, etc. Once you narrow your choice, go to the design-specific email discussion groups on Sailnet, etc. and do a detail archive search for the 'problems'. ;-) |
#4
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Bart wrote:
Are boats like the Tayana 37 still popular and still a good choice for ocean crossings? It depends on who you ask. I've crawled in and out of a few boats during the past couple weeks and it looks to me that the heavy displacment boats are just built a lot better than the mid to light displacement ones. This is especially true in the price range I can afford (less than $100k). Bzzt, sorry to disagree, but I can offer positive proof that it ain't so. Chipboard bulkheads and chopper gun fiberglass are very heavy and can be very thick but will never be strong for marine structures... and you see a lot of that kind of thing on the lower priced heavy displacement cruisers. When comparing open ocean vessels, Is the performace between a heavy and mid displacment boat really all that much different? Depends very much on the sailor & on the conditions. maybe I wouldn't get bored with a lower performance heavy displacment vessel. Well, it sounds to me like you are very much in favor of the heavy displacement boats and are trying hard to stretch a point. Go for it. BTW don't think I am being insulting, I am a racing sailor and generally see no use in heavy displacement boats except for people who would be better off with a trawler. I happen to also own & cruise in a trawler. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
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