On Wed, 05 Nov 2008 21:15:18 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 05 Nov 2008 19:39:11 -0600, Geoff Schultz
wrote:

Bruce in Bangkok wrote in
m:

On Wed, 05 Nov 2008 17:00:02 -0600, Geoff Schultz
wrote:

Towards the end of our last trip we noted that the top of a cabinet
had a water stain on it. After much lookng I determined that the
water was leaking through the cored cabintop thru a screw hole onto
the cabinet. Today I pulled out a suspect porthole and found a chip
missing from the epoxy that seals the coring and this was letting
water seep in.

It's fairly obvious that the coring is soaked. How do I go about
drying this out before sealing the leak and replacing porthole?


-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org

I had a similar problem with a deck and did some research. there seen
to be three basic methods.

One: cut away either the inner or outer skin until you reach dry core.
Remove all wet core, replace core and re-skin. - A proper, expensive
and permanent repair (Note the word EXPENSIVE).

Two: Use some form of heat to dry the soaked core. I read about one
individual who jury-rigged a microwave oven. Removed the door and
bypassed the safety switch. Sat it face down on the deck and plugged
it in. After considerable thinking I rejected that scheme as I
reckoned one might generate sufficient steam to explode the deck.

Three: Bore a number of holes through the outer or inner skin, say one
per square inch, until you reach dry core. Vacuum bag area until core
appears to be dry and fill holes with epoxy putty.

Unfortunately, if you do not completely dry the core you will have
problems in the future and, unless you use method 1 you won't know
whether you solved the problem until the core softens.

In any event, I used method 3 and no evidence of a failed core, so
far.

As an aside: If you completely saturate a plywood core and then seal
it up it will take from 2 - 3 years for the saturated core to turn to
a black mush. Don't bother to ask me how I discovered this bit of
information.

Another point to consider - what type of core do you have? If plywood
or balsa you will need to dry it. If structural foam it is possible
that it is a closed cell foam and cannot absorb moisture.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

I have abalsa core.

I could swear that I read about infusing an alcohol(?) solution which
attracted water and evaporated quickly...


Forget it. It won't come even close to working. You'd have a tough
time getting the water out of that balsa baking it for weeks in a warm
oven.


Are you saying that you can't kiln dry balsa?

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 11:47:42 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:

On Wed, 05 Nov 2008 21:15:18 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 05 Nov 2008 19:39:11 -0600, Geoff Schultz
wrote:

Bruce in Bangkok wrote in
:

On Wed, 05 Nov 2008 17:00:02 -0600, Geoff Schultz
wrote:

Towards the end of our last trip we noted that the top of a cabinet
had a water stain on it. After much lookng I determined that the
water was leaking through the cored cabintop thru a screw hole onto
the cabinet. Today I pulled out a suspect porthole and found a chip
missing from the epoxy that seals the coring and this was letting
water seep in.

It's fairly obvious that the coring is soaked. How do I go about
drying this out before sealing the leak and replacing porthole?


-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org

I had a similar problem with a deck and did some research. there seen
to be three basic methods.

One: cut away either the inner or outer skin until you reach dry core.
Remove all wet core, replace core and re-skin. - A proper, expensive
and permanent repair (Note the word EXPENSIVE).

Two: Use some form of heat to dry the soaked core. I read about one
individual who jury-rigged a microwave oven. Removed the door and
bypassed the safety switch. Sat it face down on the deck and plugged
it in. After considerable thinking I rejected that scheme as I
reckoned one might generate sufficient steam to explode the deck.

Three: Bore a number of holes through the outer or inner skin, say one
per square inch, until you reach dry core. Vacuum bag area until core
appears to be dry and fill holes with epoxy putty.

Unfortunately, if you do not completely dry the core you will have
problems in the future and, unless you use method 1 you won't know
whether you solved the problem until the core softens.

In any event, I used method 3 and no evidence of a failed core, so
far.

As an aside: If you completely saturate a plywood core and then seal
it up it will take from 2 - 3 years for the saturated core to turn to
a black mush. Don't bother to ask me how I discovered this bit of
information.

Another point to consider - what type of core do you have? If plywood
or balsa you will need to dry it. If structural foam it is possible
that it is a closed cell foam and cannot absorb moisture.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

I have abalsa core.

I could swear that I read about infusing an alcohol(?) solution which
attracted water and evaporated quickly...


Forget it. It won't come even close to working. You'd have a tough
time getting the water out of that balsa baking it for weeks in a warm
oven.


Are you saying that you can't kiln dry balsa?


We are talking about completely saturated balsa, not drying green
lumber to get SOME of the native moisture out. Besides, you can't get
it in the kiln while it's still sandwiched between two layers of
fiberglass and attached to a boat. If it's been wet for any length of
time, the balsa is permanently damaged anyway, and replacement is
mandated.

So, in this case, no, you can't kiln dry it.

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 06:36:23 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 11:47:42 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:


We are talking about completely saturated balsa, not drying green
lumber to get SOME of the native moisture out. Besides, you can't get
it in the kiln while it's still sandwiched between two layers of
fiberglass and attached to a boat. If it's been wet for any length of
time, the balsa is permanently damaged anyway, and replacement is
mandated.

So, in this case, no, you can't kiln dry it.


Well, you did say you were going to put it in the oven :-)

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 20:00:27 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 06:36:23 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 11:47:42 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:


We are talking about completely saturated balsa, not drying green
lumber to get SOME of the native moisture out. Besides, you can't get
it in the kiln while it's still sandwiched between two layers of
fiberglass and attached to a boat. If it's been wet for any length of
time, the balsa is permanently damaged anyway, and replacement is
mandated.

So, in this case, no, you can't kiln dry it.


Well, you did say you were going to put it in the oven :-)


No I didn't. I said even if you DID, it wouldn't fix the problem. :-)




So, this would sort of be like having a bun in the oven? LOL

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

So, in this case, no, you can't kiln dry it.

Well, you did say you were going to put it in the oven :-)

No I didn't. I said even if you DID, it wouldn't fix the problem. :-)

So, this would sort of be like having a bun in the oven? LOL

Only from the "you're ****ed" perspective.

"Bill Kearney" wrote in message
...

So, in this case, no, you can't kiln dry it.

Well, you did say you were going to put it in the oven :-)

No I didn't. I said even if you DID, it wouldn't fix the problem. :-)

So, this would sort of be like having a bun in the oven? LOL

Only from the "you're ****ed" perspective.


It would have to be in the past tense of couse. LOL

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 09:20:20 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 20:00:27 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 06:36:23 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 11:47:42 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:


We are talking about completely saturated balsa, not drying green
lumber to get SOME of the native moisture out. Besides, you can't get
it in the kiln while it's still sandwiched between two layers of
fiberglass and attached to a boat. If it's been wet for any length of
time, the balsa is permanently damaged anyway, and replacement is
mandated.

So, in this case, no, you can't kiln dry it.


Well, you did say you were going to put it in the oven :-)


No I didn't. I said even if you DID, it wouldn't fix the problem. :-)

Newsgroups: rec.boats.cruising
From:
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2008 21:15:18 -0500
Local: Thurs, Nov 6 2008 9:15 am
Subject: Leaking Porthole
Forget it. It won't come even close to working. You'd have a tough
time getting the water out of that balsa baking it for weeks in a warm
oven.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

On Fri, 07 Nov 2008 06:19:48 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 09:20:20 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 20:00:27 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 06:36:23 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 11:47:42 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:


We are talking about completely saturated balsa, not drying green
lumber to get SOME of the native moisture out. Besides, you can't get
it in the kiln while it's still sandwiched between two layers of
fiberglass and attached to a boat. If it's been wet for any length of
time, the balsa is permanently damaged anyway, and replacement is
mandated.

So, in this case, no, you can't kiln dry it.


Well, you did say you were going to put it in the oven :-)


No I didn't. I said even if you DID, it wouldn't fix the problem. :-)

Newsgroups: rec.boats.cruising
From:
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2008 21:15:18 -0500
Local: Thurs, Nov 6 2008 9:15 am
Subject: Leaking Porthole
Forget it. It won't come even close to working. You'd have a tough
time getting the water out of that balsa baking it for weeks in a warm
oven.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

In waht you quoted above I said "You'd" which is a contraction for
"You WOULD"