Steve wrote:
... I will probably continue my
practice on my sheets and halyards (I'm too old to climb the mast
or chase a wild genoa sheet ...

You didn't mention halyards earlier. I suspect that if these are _not_
stoppered they will eventually go aloft on just about any yacht.

... I have 2 different genoas and a
working jib and use a roller furlering (as just a furler, seldom
use it for roller reefing). However I use the same sheet on with
sheet Bowline in each ...

I mentioned this earlier, but anyway ... a long while back someone convinced
me to set up dedicated sheets for each headsail. The sheets consist of a
single length of rope (double the anticipated sheet length) with its middle
point passed through the clew cringle in a bight, and with the remainder of
the cordage looped through the bight. This is a lot harder to describe than
to actually do. This rig doesn't hang on the shrouds, and it doesn't kill
you if you get smacked in the head, but it's more expensive, heavier,
requires stowing the sheets also when changing up or down, etc. Anyway ...

--
Good luck and good sailing.
s/v Kerry Deare of Barnegat
http://kerrydeare.home.comcast.net/

Steve wrote:
... I will probably continue my
practice on my sheets and halyards (I'm too old to climb the mast
or chase a wild genoa sheet ...

You didn't mention halyards earlier. I suspect that if these are _not_
stoppered they will eventually go aloft on just about any yacht.

... I have 2 different genoas and a
working jib and use a roller furlering (as just a furler, seldom
use it for roller reefing). However I use the same sheet on with
sheet Bowline in each ...

I mentioned this earlier, but anyway ... a long while back someone convinced
me to set up dedicated sheets for each headsail. The sheets consist of a
single length of rope (double the anticipated sheet length) with its middle
point passed through the clew cringle in a bight, and with the remainder of
the cordage looped through the bight. This is a lot harder to describe than
to actually do. This rig doesn't hang on the shrouds, and it doesn't kill
you if you get smacked in the head, but it's more expensive, heavier,
requires stowing the sheets also when changing up or down, etc. Anyway ...

--
Good luck and good sailing.
s/v Kerry Deare of Barnegat
http://kerrydeare.home.comcast.net/

On Mon, 5 Apr 2004 07:28:24 -0700, "Steve" wrote:
since I have never sailed (in 40+ yr) with a spinniker and at 67,
single handing I doubt I ever will

========================================

THAT is tragic, on the same order of tragedy as being married 40
years without consummating the relationship. There is nothing else
you can do to a sailboat that will do more to improve downwind
performance and bring the whole boat alive, absolutely nothing.
In under 20 knots of wind a spinnaker is the difference between
sailing, and floundering around.

On Mon, 5 Apr 2004 07:28:24 -0700, "Steve" wrote:
since I have never sailed (in 40+ yr) with a spinniker and at 67,
single handing I doubt I ever will

========================================

THAT is tragic, on the same order of tragedy as being married 40
years without consummating the relationship. There is nothing else
you can do to a sailboat that will do more to improve downwind
performance and bring the whole boat alive, absolutely nothing.
In under 20 knots of wind a spinnaker is the difference between
sailing, and floundering around.

On Mon, 5 Apr 2004 07:28:24 -0700, "Steve" wrote:


However I use the same sheet on with sheet Bowline in each.

Same here. I reverse the knot depending on which side the sheet will
run, but then I flemish my docklines and halyards, so I guess I'm a
neat freak.

It's just as quick to tie two knots as
it is to 'screw' around with a shackle and pin. I avoid any 'hardware' on
the jib/genoa clew.

Well, I *do* use Gibb shackles on the spinnaker sheets and guy, mainly
because the previous owner did, and those lines are still good. G

If the clew grommet corrodes, as many do, I replace it
with nylon webbing.

I like to fly my smaller jibs (I have hank-on and a large J) on a
pendant to catch a bit more air. I use an oversized line (5/8" or so)
and use bowlines with secured ends to lift the tack about four feet
above the deck. Using a number 3, this improves forward visibility,
catches a bit more air and allows more choices in genoa car angles. If
I fly the genoa staysail, I fly the no. 3 even higher, like six to
eight feet depending on wind and my anticipation of tacking.

I also use jib downhauls, which is getting pretty rare in these days
of furling, but I've found them handy when singlehanding and seeing
perhaps dodgy gusty weather of the type that precede summer storms
here on the Great Lakes.

The idea of adding a reef point to a genoa is becoming rare, too, but
if you like hank-on, it's a good idea to consider.

R.

"rhys" wrote in message
...
it is to 'screw' around with a shackle and pin. I avoid any 'hardware' on
the jib/genoa clew.

Well, I *do* use Gibb shackles on the spinnaker sheets and guy, mainly
because the previous owner did, and those lines are still good. G


One other reason I prefer not to have heavy hardware on my genoa sheets is
that a knot to the clew seems not to hang up while tacking with a staysail
inter stay. Especially in lite air.

The idea of adding a reef point to a genoa is becoming rare, too, but
if you like hank-on, it's a good idea to consider.


My staysail has a single row of reef points. I'm considering some additional
re-enforcements and use this as my 'poormans' storm staysail. It would be
about the right size.

I also use a downhaul on my staysail but it is called a Modified Gerr
Downhaul. In addition to hauling down the luff, it also gathers the clew up
to the gathered luff. Not exactly elegant but the sail is secured on deck,
can't flog or fall overboard and I never have to leave the cockpit to do it
since the downhaul and the halyard are lead to the cock pit.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

One other reason I prefer not to have heavy hardware on my genoa sheets
is
that a knot to the clew seems not to hang up while tacking with a staysail
inter stay. Especially in lite air.
**** Try using a 'buntline' instead of a bowline.... a square rig
sailor would never tie a bowline in a clew.

My staysail has a single row of reef points. I'm considering some additional
re-enforcements and use this as my 'poormans' storm staysail. It would be
about the right size.

I also use a downhaul on my staysail but it is called a Modified Gerr
Downhaul. In addition to hauling down the luff, it also gathers the clew up
to the gathered luff.
****Could you explain a little bit more on the Modif. Gerr Downhaul.

****Could you explain a little bit more on the Modif. Gerr Downhaul.


I think it is explained in one of my singlehanded sailing books.

Since I don't know what a 'unModified' Gerr Downhaul is, I will attempt to
discribe what my book illustrates. (the book is on the boat, otherwise I
would provide a illustration).

The downhaul line runs up the luff, either through the hanks or through
rings attached to the hank. (to play with the system, just run it up inside
the hank, parrallel to the stay. Then about half way down the luff the
downhaul line is led to the clew on one side, throught the clew cringle and
back to the next lower hank, then on down to the tack where it is reaved
through a fairlead block and back to the cockpit. On my boat, I run it along
the stantion bases just like the furler line in the other side...

Like I said, it ain't neat but it will get the staysail or hanked on jib
down to the deck and under control.. After things quiet down I might go
forward and put a couple gaskets on it and secure it to the life lines to
prevent chaff on the non skid deck.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

****Could you explain a little bit more on the Modif. Gerr Downhaul.


I think it is explained in one of my singlehanded sailing books.

Since I don't know what a 'unModified' Gerr Downhaul is, I will attempt to
discribe what my book illustrates. (the book is on the boat, otherwise I
would provide a illustration).

The downhaul line runs up the luff, either through the hanks or through
rings attached to the hank. (to play with the system, just run it up inside
the hank, parrallel to the stay. Then about half way down the luff the
downhaul line is led to the clew on one side, throught the clew cringle and
back to the next lower hank, then on down to the tack where it is reaved
through a fairlead block and back to the cockpit. On my boat, I run it along
the stantion bases just like the furler line in the other side...

Like I said, it ain't neat but it will get the staysail or hanked on jib
down to the deck and under control.. After things quiet down I might go
forward and put a couple gaskets on it and secure it to the life lines to
prevent chaff on the non skid deck.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Doesn't a buntline hitch become tight, (jammed) and hard to untie?

SV


"Rich Hampel" wrote
**** Try using a 'buntline' instead of a bowline.... a square rig
sailor would never tie a bowline in a clew.