I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I
am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a
connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined
there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the additional
chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop
the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever
the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I
was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting
link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these
links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass? Are
there any problems associated with the connecting links?
Thanks and good winds..... Rich

"Kangaroo" wrote in message
...
link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these
links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass?
Are
there any problems associated with the connecting links?


I think these links were once called 'LassLinks' (sp?). Nowadays more
commonly referred to as connecting links.

Several problems with your plan.

You are correct that they are rated at the same strength as the equivelent
"Proof Coil" chain. The lower grade of anchor chain. I have always had
reservations about that claim. Chain loading in the real world of anchoring
is seldom under the ideal conditions that load test are performed. I just
don't believe they will articulate with the mating links as well as an
ordinary link. (just my opinion).

If your windlass has a gypsy for 5/16" Proof Coil then the link should work
ok, but most are for HT or BBB chain.

I'm not sure I understand how you are going to attach this second anchor. It
sounds like your attaching it in tandom with, in the middle of the chain.
You will have a problem finding a shackle that will pass through any links
in the standing part of the chain. And even if you do, you shouldn't do this
with the connecting link since it will cause a side pull on the link and
open the joint. Or uneven load on the link.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

The second anchor would be on its own rode.........Thanks again

The second anchor would be on its own rode.........Thanks again

"Kangaroo" wrote in message
...
link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these
links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass?
Are
there any problems associated with the connecting links?

================================================== ====

In addition to the issues that Steve raised I'd be very concerned
about the long term durability of the connecting link after it had
passed through the windlass a number of times. If the link failed at
an inopportune time (and almost any time would be), you stand to lose
a lot more than the price of a replacement chain.

If your goal is just to temporarily let out more scope while you set a
second anchor, consider a rope to chain splice and a rope/chain
wildcat on your windlass if you don't already have one. That would
solve the problem with a lot less weight and expense. Rope-chain
splices are fairly easy to make, and easy to inspect.

"Kangaroo" wrote in message
...
link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these
links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass?
Are
there any problems associated with the connecting links?

================================================== ====

In addition to the issues that Steve raised I'd be very concerned
about the long term durability of the connecting link after it had
passed through the windlass a number of times. If the link failed at
an inopportune time (and almost any time would be), you stand to lose
a lot more than the price of a replacement chain.

If your goal is just to temporarily let out more scope while you set a
second anchor, consider a rope to chain splice and a rope/chain
wildcat on your windlass if you don't already have one. That would
solve the problem with a lot less weight and expense. Rope-chain
splices are fairly easy to make, and easy to inspect.

Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the
calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass
doing this.

FWIW
Doug
s/v Callista

"Kangaroo" wrote in message
...
I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I
am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a
connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined
there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the
additional
chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop
the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever
the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I
was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting
link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these
links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass?
Are
there any problems associated with the connecting links?
Thanks and good winds..... Rich

In light to moderate (10 kts) wind I found I can run the windlass for a few
seconds to straighten the chain (that is, it will assume the mythical catenary
shape to the anchor), then the boat will glide forward as the chain assumes its
preferred orientation: roughly "L" shaped with a vertical off the bow and the
rest on the bottom. I repeat a few times, the bow is over the anchor with
minimal stress on the windlass. I agree that using the windlass for maneuvering
in anything more than that is asking for trouble - I've usually used the engine
when setting two anchors.

My real issue with this is that adding 100 feet of chain solely for the purpose
of extending the rode to set a Bahamian Moor seems a bit odd. Why not splice in
some 9/16 nylon? - even without a rope/chain gypsy, its fairly easy to haul in
the rope by hand. Of course, this is a whole other discussion, and I appreciate
that some sleep more soundly with a lot of chain, etc.

"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
...
Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the
calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass
doing this.

FWIW
Doug
s/v Callista

"Kangaroo" wrote in message
...
I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I
am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a
connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined
there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the
additional
chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop
the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever
the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I
was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting
link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these
links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass?
Are
there any problems associated with the connecting links?
Thanks and good winds..... Rich

We use all chain for our primary, and rope/chain for the second
anchor. Having all chain for both just adds too much weight in the
bow. Priamry is a Bruce and secondary is a CQR. We used an
aluminum Spade as our primary in the Bahamas last winter but
were less that happy with it. Going to keep it as a backup.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
In light to moderate (10 kts) wind I found I can run the windlass for a
few
seconds to straighten the chain (that is, it will assume the mythical
catenary
shape to the anchor), then the boat will glide forward as the chain
assumes its
preferred orientation: roughly "L" shaped with a vertical off the bow and
the
rest on the bottom. I repeat a few times, the bow is over the anchor with
minimal stress on the windlass. I agree that using the windlass for
maneuvering
in anything more than that is asking for trouble - I've usually used the
engine
when setting two anchors.

My real issue with this is that adding 100 feet of chain solely for the
purpose
of extending the rode to set a Bahamian Moor seems a bit odd. Why not
splice in
some 9/16 nylon? - even without a rope/chain gypsy, its fairly easy to
haul in
the rope by hand. Of course, this is a whole other discussion, and I
appreciate
that some sleep more soundly with a lot of chain, etc.

"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
...
Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the
calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass
doing this.

FWIW
Doug
s/v Callista

"Kangaroo" wrote in message
...
I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass.
I
am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I
purchased a
connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When
joined
there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the
additional
chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain
drop
the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If
ever
the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100
feet, I
was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the
connecting
link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of
these
links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my
windlass?
Are
there any problems associated with the connecting links?
Thanks and good winds..... Rich

On Thu, 1 Apr 2004 18:33:16 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:
We used an
aluminum Spade as our primary in the Bahamas last winter but
were less that happy with it. Going to keep it as a backup.

==========================================

What kind of issues did you have with your spade? I have a 44# steel
spade which I regard as the best I've ever used. Perhaps the aluminum
makes it too light to set reliably?