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#1
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Anchor chain
I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I
am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the additional chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass? Are there any problems associated with the connecting links? Thanks and good winds..... Rich |
#2
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Anchor chain
"Kangaroo" wrote in message ... link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass? Are there any problems associated with the connecting links? I think these links were once called 'LassLinks' (sp?). Nowadays more commonly referred to as connecting links. Several problems with your plan. You are correct that they are rated at the same strength as the equivelent "Proof Coil" chain. The lower grade of anchor chain. I have always had reservations about that claim. Chain loading in the real world of anchoring is seldom under the ideal conditions that load test are performed. I just don't believe they will articulate with the mating links as well as an ordinary link. (just my opinion). If your windlass has a gypsy for 5/16" Proof Coil then the link should work ok, but most are for HT or BBB chain. I'm not sure I understand how you are going to attach this second anchor. It sounds like your attaching it in tandom with, in the middle of the chain. You will have a problem finding a shackle that will pass through any links in the standing part of the chain. And even if you do, you shouldn't do this with the connecting link since it will cause a side pull on the link and open the joint. Or uneven load on the link. -- My opinion and experience. FWIW Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#3
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Anchor chain
"Kangaroo" wrote in message ... link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass? Are there any problems associated with the connecting links? I think these links were once called 'LassLinks' (sp?). Nowadays more commonly referred to as connecting links. Several problems with your plan. You are correct that they are rated at the same strength as the equivelent "Proof Coil" chain. The lower grade of anchor chain. I have always had reservations about that claim. Chain loading in the real world of anchoring is seldom under the ideal conditions that load test are performed. I just don't believe they will articulate with the mating links as well as an ordinary link. (just my opinion). If your windlass has a gypsy for 5/16" Proof Coil then the link should work ok, but most are for HT or BBB chain. I'm not sure I understand how you are going to attach this second anchor. It sounds like your attaching it in tandom with, in the middle of the chain. You will have a problem finding a shackle that will pass through any links in the standing part of the chain. And even if you do, you shouldn't do this with the connecting link since it will cause a side pull on the link and open the joint. Or uneven load on the link. -- My opinion and experience. FWIW Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#4
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Anchor chain
The second anchor would be on its own rode.........Thanks again
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#6
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Anchor chain
Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the
calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass doing this. FWIW Doug s/v Callista "Kangaroo" wrote in message ... I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the additional chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass? Are there any problems associated with the connecting links? Thanks and good winds..... Rich |
#7
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Anchor chain
Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the
calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass doing this. FWIW Doug s/v Callista "Kangaroo" wrote in message ... I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the additional chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass? Are there any problems associated with the connecting links? Thanks and good winds..... Rich |
#8
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Anchor chain
In light to moderate (10 kts) wind I found I can run the windlass for a few
seconds to straighten the chain (that is, it will assume the mythical catenary shape to the anchor), then the boat will glide forward as the chain assumes its preferred orientation: roughly "L" shaped with a vertical off the bow and the rest on the bottom. I repeat a few times, the bow is over the anchor with minimal stress on the windlass. I agree that using the windlass for maneuvering in anything more than that is asking for trouble - I've usually used the engine when setting two anchors. My real issue with this is that adding 100 feet of chain solely for the purpose of extending the rode to set a Bahamian Moor seems a bit odd. Why not splice in some 9/16 nylon? - even without a rope/chain gypsy, its fairly easy to haul in the rope by hand. Of course, this is a whole other discussion, and I appreciate that some sleep more soundly with a lot of chain, etc. "Doug Dotson" wrote in message ... Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass doing this. FWIW Doug s/v Callista "Kangaroo" wrote in message ... I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the additional chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass? Are there any problems associated with the connecting links? Thanks and good winds..... Rich |
#9
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Anchor chain
In light to moderate (10 kts) wind I found I can run the windlass for a few
seconds to straighten the chain (that is, it will assume the mythical catenary shape to the anchor), then the boat will glide forward as the chain assumes its preferred orientation: roughly "L" shaped with a vertical off the bow and the rest on the bottom. I repeat a few times, the bow is over the anchor with minimal stress on the windlass. I agree that using the windlass for maneuvering in anything more than that is asking for trouble - I've usually used the engine when setting two anchors. My real issue with this is that adding 100 feet of chain solely for the purpose of extending the rode to set a Bahamian Moor seems a bit odd. Why not splice in some 9/16 nylon? - even without a rope/chain gypsy, its fairly easy to haul in the rope by hand. Of course, this is a whole other discussion, and I appreciate that some sleep more soundly with a lot of chain, etc. "Doug Dotson" wrote in message ... Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass doing this. FWIW Doug s/v Callista "Kangaroo" wrote in message ... I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the additional chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass? Are there any problems associated with the connecting links? Thanks and good winds..... Rich |
#10
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Anchor chain
We use all chain for our primary, and rope/chain for the second
anchor. Having all chain for both just adds too much weight in the bow. Priamry is a Bruce and secondary is a CQR. We used an aluminum Spade as our primary in the Bahamas last winter but were less that happy with it. Going to keep it as a backup. Doug s/v Callista "Jeff Morris" wrote in message ... In light to moderate (10 kts) wind I found I can run the windlass for a few seconds to straighten the chain (that is, it will assume the mythical catenary shape to the anchor), then the boat will glide forward as the chain assumes its preferred orientation: roughly "L" shaped with a vertical off the bow and the rest on the bottom. I repeat a few times, the bow is over the anchor with minimal stress on the windlass. I agree that using the windlass for maneuvering in anything more than that is asking for trouble - I've usually used the engine when setting two anchors. My real issue with this is that adding 100 feet of chain solely for the purpose of extending the rode to set a Bahamian Moor seems a bit odd. Why not splice in some 9/16 nylon? - even without a rope/chain gypsy, its fairly easy to haul in the rope by hand. Of course, this is a whole other discussion, and I appreciate that some sleep more soundly with a lot of chain, etc. "Doug Dotson" wrote in message ... Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass doing this. FWIW Doug s/v Callista "Kangaroo" wrote in message ... I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the additional chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass? Are there any problems associated with the connecting links? Thanks and good winds..... Rich |
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