Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the
calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass
doing this.

FWIW
Doug
s/v Callista

"Kangaroo" wrote in message
...
I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I
am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a
connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined
there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the
additional
chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop
the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever
the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I
was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting
link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these
links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass?
Are
there any problems associated with the connecting links?
Thanks and good winds..... Rich

In light to moderate (10 kts) wind I found I can run the windlass for a few
seconds to straighten the chain (that is, it will assume the mythical catenary
shape to the anchor), then the boat will glide forward as the chain assumes its
preferred orientation: roughly "L" shaped with a vertical off the bow and the
rest on the bottom. I repeat a few times, the bow is over the anchor with
minimal stress on the windlass. I agree that using the windlass for maneuvering
in anything more than that is asking for trouble - I've usually used the engine
when setting two anchors.

My real issue with this is that adding 100 feet of chain solely for the purpose
of extending the rode to set a Bahamian Moor seems a bit odd. Why not splice in
some 9/16 nylon? - even without a rope/chain gypsy, its fairly easy to haul in
the rope by hand. Of course, this is a whole other discussion, and I appreciate
that some sleep more soundly with a lot of chain, etc.

"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
...
Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the
calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass
doing this.

FWIW
Doug
s/v Callista

"Kangaroo" wrote in message
...
I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I
am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a
connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined
there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the
additional
chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop
the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever
the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I
was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting
link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these
links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass?
Are
there any problems associated with the connecting links?
Thanks and good winds..... Rich

We use all chain for our primary, and rope/chain for the second
anchor. Having all chain for both just adds too much weight in the
bow. Priamry is a Bruce and secondary is a CQR. We used an
aluminum Spade as our primary in the Bahamas last winter but
were less that happy with it. Going to keep it as a backup.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
In light to moderate (10 kts) wind I found I can run the windlass for a
few
seconds to straighten the chain (that is, it will assume the mythical
catenary
shape to the anchor), then the boat will glide forward as the chain
assumes its
preferred orientation: roughly "L" shaped with a vertical off the bow and
the
rest on the bottom. I repeat a few times, the bow is over the anchor with
minimal stress on the windlass. I agree that using the windlass for
maneuvering
in anything more than that is asking for trouble - I've usually used the
engine
when setting two anchors.

My real issue with this is that adding 100 feet of chain solely for the
purpose
of extending the rode to set a Bahamian Moor seems a bit odd. Why not
splice in
some 9/16 nylon? - even without a rope/chain gypsy, its fairly easy to
haul in
the rope by hand. Of course, this is a whole other discussion, and I
appreciate
that some sleep more soundly with a lot of chain, etc.

"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
...
Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the
calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass
doing this.

FWIW
Doug
s/v Callista

"Kangaroo" wrote in message
...
I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass.
I
am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I
purchased a
connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When
joined
there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the
additional
chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain
drop
the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If
ever
the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100
feet, I
was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the
connecting
link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of
these
links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my
windlass?
Are
there any problems associated with the connecting links?
Thanks and good winds..... Rich

On Thu, 1 Apr 2004 18:33:16 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:
We used an
aluminum Spade as our primary in the Bahamas last winter but
were less that happy with it. Going to keep it as a backup.

==========================================

What kind of issues did you have with your spade? I have a 44# steel
spade which I regard as the best I've ever used. Perhaps the aluminum
makes it too light to set reliably?

I suspect that the light weight is the issue. Mine is a 30# aluminum.
Does not set in grass. Just flops over and drags on its side. Worked
really well in most other situations, but then again my Bruce does
just as well in those situations. Our CQR did better in grass
although I had to dive on it and get it started on occation as
well.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 1 Apr 2004 18:33:16 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:
We used an
aluminum Spade as our primary in the Bahamas last winter but
were less that happy with it. Going to keep it as a backup.

==========================================

What kind of issues did you have with your spade? I have a 44# steel
spade which I regard as the best I've ever used. Perhaps the aluminum
makes it too light to set reliably?

I suspect that the light weight is the issue. Mine is a 30# aluminum.
Does not set in grass. Just flops over and drags on its side. Worked
really well in most other situations, but then again my Bruce does
just as well in those situations. Our CQR did better in grass
although I had to dive on it and get it started on occation as
well.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 1 Apr 2004 18:33:16 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:
We used an
aluminum Spade as our primary in the Bahamas last winter but
were less that happy with it. Going to keep it as a backup.

==========================================

What kind of issues did you have with your spade? I have a 44# steel
spade which I regard as the best I've ever used. Perhaps the aluminum
makes it too light to set reliably?

On Thu, 1 Apr 2004 18:33:16 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:
We used an
aluminum Spade as our primary in the Bahamas last winter but
were less that happy with it. Going to keep it as a backup.

==========================================

What kind of issues did you have with your spade? I have a 44# steel
spade which I regard as the best I've ever used. Perhaps the aluminum
makes it too light to set reliably?

We use all chain for our primary, and rope/chain for the second
anchor. Having all chain for both just adds too much weight in the
bow. Priamry is a Bruce and secondary is a CQR. We used an
aluminum Spade as our primary in the Bahamas last winter but
were less that happy with it. Going to keep it as a backup.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
In light to moderate (10 kts) wind I found I can run the windlass for a
few
seconds to straighten the chain (that is, it will assume the mythical
catenary
shape to the anchor), then the boat will glide forward as the chain
assumes its
preferred orientation: roughly "L" shaped with a vertical off the bow and
the
rest on the bottom. I repeat a few times, the bow is over the anchor with
minimal stress on the windlass. I agree that using the windlass for
maneuvering
in anything more than that is asking for trouble - I've usually used the
engine
when setting two anchors.

My real issue with this is that adding 100 feet of chain solely for the
purpose
of extending the rode to set a Bahamian Moor seems a bit odd. Why not
splice in
some 9/16 nylon? - even without a rope/chain gypsy, its fairly easy to
haul in
the rope by hand. Of course, this is a whole other discussion, and I
appreciate
that some sleep more soundly with a lot of chain, etc.

"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
...
Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the
calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass
doing this.

FWIW
Doug
s/v Callista

"Kangaroo" wrote in message
...
I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass.
I
am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I
purchased a
connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When
joined
there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the
additional
chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain
drop
the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If
ever
the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100
feet, I
was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the
connecting
link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of
these
links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my
windlass?
Are
there any problems associated with the connecting links?
Thanks and good winds..... Rich

In light to moderate (10 kts) wind I found I can run the windlass for a few
seconds to straighten the chain (that is, it will assume the mythical catenary
shape to the anchor), then the boat will glide forward as the chain assumes its
preferred orientation: roughly "L" shaped with a vertical off the bow and the
rest on the bottom. I repeat a few times, the bow is over the anchor with
minimal stress on the windlass. I agree that using the windlass for maneuvering
in anything more than that is asking for trouble - I've usually used the engine
when setting two anchors.

My real issue with this is that adding 100 feet of chain solely for the purpose
of extending the rode to set a Bahamian Moor seems a bit odd. Why not splice in
some 9/16 nylon? - even without a rope/chain gypsy, its fairly easy to haul in
the rope by hand. Of course, this is a whole other discussion, and I appreciate
that some sleep more soundly with a lot of chain, etc.

"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
...
Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the
calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass
doing this.

FWIW
Doug
s/v Callista

"Kangaroo" wrote in message
...
I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I
am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a
connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined
there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the
additional
chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop
the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever
the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I
was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting
link would be located. So my questions a Has anyone used one of these
links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass?
Are
there any problems associated with the connecting links?
Thanks and good winds..... Rich