On 30 Jul 2008 14:33:05 -0500, Dave wrote:

On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 14:46:05 -0400, said:

He's trying to free steel bolts from aluminum after 30 or 40 years.

Not quite correct. The PO apparently removed the stanchions from their bases
each year when he covered the boat, and I also removed them from their bases
the year after I bought the boat. So it's been about 3 years since they were
loose. I'm surprised at how quickly the bolts became irremovable.

Tapping and patience often works with frozen bolts. Soaking with your
choice of a "rust-buster," then whacking repeatedly, coming back later
and whacking a bit more. Only loosen the nut enough to protect the
end threads from the hammer, and bang on that, not hard enough to
deform the threads so the nut won't come off. But even banging in the
direction of insertion provides corrosion freeing action.
Might work for you, but use due caution not to overdo it.
I've used the method with good success. Even works on recalcitrant
pipe joints, preventing smaller rusted pipe diameters from twisting
off in the joint.

--Vic

Dave brought forth on stone tablets:
On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 16:17:15 -0500, Vic Smith
said:


Soaking with your
choice of a "rust-buster," then whacking repeatedly, coming back later
and whacking a bit more. Only loosen the nut enough to protect the
end threads from the hammer, and bang on that


Been there. Done that, though I'm not so concerned about the end threads as
the replacement bolts are readily available. In fact I hit the nut
protecting the threads hard enough with the hammer to deform the threads
even with the nut on.

A nut buster is sometimes the best and easiest solution, if you can get
it on the nut, and if the nut is a "low value" one. It is frequently my
FIRST choice.

bob

Dave brought forth on stone tablets:
On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 14:43:20 -0700, RW Salnick said:


A nut buster is sometimes the best and easiest solution, if you can get
it on the nut, and if the nut is a "low value" one. It is frequently my
FIRST choice.


I'm afraid you misunderstand the issue. Removing the nut is not a problem. I
removed it and put it back on the bolt to protect the threads. The problem
is removing the stainless bolt, which is, not surprisingly, corroded to the
aluminum stanchion.

ah.

Sorry for missing that in this (long) thread.

Indeed, stainless and aluminum are an evil combination. I have a mizzen
mast with a seized aluminum sheave (it runs, or more correctly "ran" on
a stainless axle) - I can commiserate.

bob