On Jul 8, 10:31*am, wrote:
"Silaprene" is the name for about 200 different formulas, some of
which may react badly with what you are bonding, or have other issues.

The tube just says "Silaprene North America's Premier Adhesive/
Sealant" and they list the polymer base as Polychloroprene. There
aren't that many "Silaprene" adhesive/sealant products but there are
more than I'd have guessed from looking at the package.
http://www.industrialadhesives.com/b...?division_id=4 for a list.
As for the rest, could be, that's why I'm asking for experience.

-- Tom.

On Jul 9, 8:43*am, wrote:
...
Maybe they count each different packaging size as an "offering, and I
misinterpreted it.

Yeah, I'm not sure what they are saying but if you click on the
"brochure" link it only shows a hand full of "Siliprene" tubes of
which I think 7 are adhesive/sealants.

-- Tom.

On Jul 10, 3:35*am, wrote:
...
Just the same, I know quite a few folks who thought all "Silicone" was the same,
and they bought their's at Home Depot to save a few bucks. OOPS! The home
version releases ACID as it cures. Pretty hard on boat hardware.

I think I get your point, and that's why I've been asking for reports
from users. Still, the 3M "Marine" silicone sealant that I bought at
West Marine just a few months ago was acid cure and double the price
of hardware store too... And, FWIW, 5200 releases solvents which may
include toluene, heptane and acetone. I'm still waiting for the
adhesive / sealant that sticks to everything, melts nothing and cures
in just the time needed... I don't know if this Silaprene stuff is it,
but the ability to stick to unprimed metal and other interesting
properties (see Bob's post) could make it a useful addition to my bag
of less than ideal goos.

-- Tom.

On Jul 10, 7:30*am, " wrote:
On Jul 10, 3:35*am, wrote:
...

Just the same, I know quite a few folks who thought all "Silicone" was the same,
and they bought their's at Home Depot to save a few bucks. OOPS!

I think I get your point, and that's why I've been asking for reports
from users. *Still, the 3M "Marine" silicone sealant that I bought at
West Marine just a few months ago was acid cure and double the price
of hardware store too...

My advice is spend a few days and become knowldegable sealant-adhesive
user. It took me nearly a month of calls to tech guys, reading
Technical Data Sheets, crusing websites to get a good understanding.
WM....and anyother retail boat store. They will carry the product
that provides the most profit and is "most popular" for everybodys
use... You know, the fit all product.

Regarding silicon products. When I installed my polycarb fixed port
lights I had to use silicone. After a few weeks I narrowed a few
products down and started calling the manufactures. Then I called a
couple instate big city commercial window installers (Union Shops of
course). I chose a product used to "glue" 4'x8' windows in sky
scrapers and keep Lexan in place in high security prisons. The tech
guys refered to it as "structural silicone" It has the same density as
lead (JK). It was a Dow Corning product can t remember the #, maybe
DC-735???

What im getting at is the last place you may want to seek info is from
WM or other boaters........ Go to the experts and tell them the your
aplication n specs and see what happens.


*I'm still waiting for the
adhesive / sealant that sticks to everything, melts nothing and cures
in just the time needed...
-- Tom.

It s not going to happen........... get the right goo for the right
job. And always remember when you use "boat life" or a Universal Goo,
it will always be a compromise. Personally i do not want to compromise
my projects.
Fair winds and good gooing....
Bob

Bob wrote:
On Jul 10, 7:30 am, " wrote:
On Jul 10, 3:35 am, wrote:
...

Just the same, I know quite a few folks who thought all "Silicone" was the same,
and they bought their's at Home Depot to save a few bucks. OOPS!

I think I get your point, and that's why I've been asking for reports
from users. Still, the 3M "Marine" silicone sealant that I bought at
West Marine just a few months ago was acid cure and double the price
of hardware store too...

My advice is spend a few days and become knowldegable sealant-adhesive
user. It took me nearly a month of calls to tech guys, reading
Technical Data Sheets, crusing websites to get a good understanding.
WM....and anyother retail boat store. They will carry the product
that provides the most profit and is "most popular" for everybodys
use... You know, the fit all product.

Regarding silicon products. When I installed my polycarb fixed port
lights I had to use silicone. After a few weeks I narrowed a few
products down and started calling the manufactures. Then I called a
couple instate big city commercial window installers (Union Shops of
course). I chose a product used to "glue" 4'x8' windows in sky
scrapers and keep Lexan in place in high security prisons. The tech
guys refered to it as "structural silicone" It has the same density as
lead (JK). It was a Dow Corning product can t remember the #, maybe
DC-735???

snip
Bob
Perhaps the stuff you have in mind is Dow-Corning 795. I've used it
quite successfully to attach plexiglas deadlights.

--Alan Gomes

On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 06:35:50 -0400, wrote:

Just the same, I know quite a few folks who thought all "Silicone" was the same,
and they bought their's at Home Depot to save a few bucks. OOPS! The home
version releases ACID as it cures. Pretty hard on boat hardware.

Acetic acid, that is, vinegar. Not in a class with some other acids
for corrosiveness, but not desirable. Won't normally do much to
stainless.

Casady

On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 06:58:45 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 01:21:16 GMT, (Richard Casady)
wrote:

On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 06:35:50 -0400, wrote:

Just the same, I know quite a few folks who thought all "Silicone" was the same,
and they bought their's at Home Depot to save a few bucks. OOPS! The home
version releases ACID as it cures. Pretty hard on boat hardware.

Acetic acid, that is, vinegar. Not in a class with some other acids
for corrosiveness, but not desirable. Won't normally do much to
stainless.

Casady

Vinegar is greatly diluted acetic acid. Something around 5% acidity. Acetic acid
can also be 20%, 50%,100%, or anything in between, all which might surprise you
with their effects on metals including stainless.

We are discussing silicone caulk. What is the concentration of the
acid?

Casady

On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 14:10:25 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 16:45:17 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 06:58:45 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 01:21:16 GMT, (Richard Casady)
wrote:

On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 06:35:50 -0400, wrote:

Just the same, I know quite a few folks who thought all "Silicone" was the same,
and they bought their's at Home Depot to save a few bucks. OOPS! The home
version releases ACID as it cures. Pretty hard on boat hardware.

Acetic acid, that is, vinegar. Not in a class with some other acids
for corrosiveness, but not desirable. Won't normally do much to
stainless.

Casady

Vinegar is greatly diluted acetic acid. Something around 5% acidity. Acetic acid
can also be 20%, 50%,100%, or anything in between, all which might surprise you
with their effects on metals including stainless.

We are discussing silicone caulk. What is the concentration of the
acid?

Casady

Don't know and don't care. Just pointing out that not all acetic acid
is 5%.

Of course not. The caulk is undoubtedly less than one tenth that.

Casady

"Dave" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 06:58:45 -0400, said:

Vinegar is greatly diluted acetic acid. Something around 5% acidity.
Acetic acid
can also be 20%, 50%,100%, or anything in between, all which might
surprise you
with their effects on metals including stainless.

Where does one buy the higher concentrations? I'm looking for something to
apply to the aluminum stanchion bases in order to get loose the stainless
bolts securing the stanchions to the bases. Might the higher
concentrations
of acetic be what I'm looking for?

I would not slosh strong acid of any sort around anything on your boat as
you never know where it will seep down and end up.
I would first heat the bolt with one of those precision small burners you
can attach to a can of gas. The bolt will expand but the aluminium will
expand more and this should break the bond and make extraction easier. You
can get really precise flames with the right sort of burner so it will
concentrate the heat where you want it and not damage the surroundings..

On 30 Jul 2008 08:56:02 -0500, Dave wrote:

On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 06:58:45 -0400, said:

Vinegar is greatly diluted acetic acid. Something around 5% acidity. Acetic acid
can also be 20%, 50%,100%, or anything in between, all which might surprise you
with their effects on metals including stainless.

Where does one buy the higher concentrations? I'm looking for something to
apply to the aluminum stanchion bases in order to get loose the stainless
bolts securing the stanchions to the bases. Might the higher concentrations
of acetic be what I'm looking for?

Photography supply outlets have the pure stuff.

Casady