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#1
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I am referencing the Official Yanmar Service Manual for the 2gm20f.
One connection is a plug on the fresh water pump on the hose side that leads from the heat exchanger. The other is a plug on the side of the thermostat housing that leads to the heat exchanger. They are both 3/8" npt fittings. On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 16:27:45 -0400, none wrote: I have an 18HP yanmar 2cyl and would like to put in an aux heater from the internal cooling system (glycol). There are many plugs, thermhousing, side of block etc... so i am unsure where to tie in for a send return that won't affect the cooling of the motor. any thoughts? rick |
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#2
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thanks a lot Marc.
Out thru the T-stat housing (which i see) return thru the water pump low press side...which i will locate. My manual doesn't appear to have that info. Rick .. On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 14:29:16 GMT, Marc wrote: I am referencing the Official Yanmar Service Manual for the 2gm20f. One connection is a plug on the fresh water pump on the hose side that leads from the heat exchanger. The other is a plug on the side of the thermostat housing that leads to the heat exchanger. They are both 3/8" npt fittings. snip... |
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#3
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If you put an inline tee fitting with a cap, you can fill the hoses
with anti freeze and bleed them much more easily. On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 11:22:09 -0400, none wrote: thanks a lot Marc. Out thru the T-stat housing (which i see) return thru the water pump low press side...which i will locate. My manual doesn't appear to have that info. Rick . On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 14:29:16 GMT, Marc wrote: I am referencing the Official Yanmar Service Manual for the 2gm20f. One connection is a plug on the fresh water pump on the hose side that leads from the heat exchanger. The other is a plug on the side of the thermostat housing that leads to the heat exchanger. They are both 3/8" npt fittings. snip... |
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#4
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Also a good idea to put a bypass on the heater lines, that way you
don't have to fill (6gals) the heater with pink stuff. Or at least make the lines long enough and accesible. Mine is a PITA to get to. And don't forget to drain the heater for winter. Scott Marc wrote in message . .. If you put an inline tee fitting with a cap, you can fill the hoses with anti freeze and bleed them much more easily. On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 11:22:09 -0400, none wrote: thanks a lot Marc. Out thru the T-stat housing (which i see) return thru the water pump low press side...which i will locate. My manual doesn't appear to have that info. Rick . On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 14:29:16 GMT, Marc wrote: I am referencing the Official Yanmar Service Manual for the 2gm20f. One connection is a plug on the fresh water pump on the hose side that leads from the heat exchanger. The other is a plug on the side of the thermostat housing that leads to the heat exchanger. They are both 3/8" npt fittings. snip... |
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#5
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note that a 2GM20f is **freshwater** cooled. a raw water cooled engine is a
different breed of cat. I am referencing the Official Yanmar Service Manual for the 2gm20f. One connection is a plug on the fresh water pump on the hose side that leads from the heat exchanger. The other is a plug on the side of the thermostat housing that leads to the heat exchanger. They are both 3/8" npt fittings. On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 16:27:45 -0400, none wrote: I have an 18HP yanmar 2cyl and would like to put in an aux heater from the internal cooling system (glycol). There are many plugs, thermhousing, side of block etc... so i am unsure where to tie in for a send return that won't affect the cooling of the motor. any thoughts? rick |
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#6
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"JAXAshby" wrote in message ... note that a 2GM20f is **freshwater** cooled. a raw water cooled engine is a different breed of cat. Most common marine water heaters are equipt with a copper or brass engine water coil.. Therefore raw water shouldn't be circulated through it.. If a person wants to us raw water to heat domestic water, this coil should be replace with something in CuNi. However, most raw water cooled engine have a low temp thermosat and the water temp may never get over 150 degree. Not very much of a rise for stored hot water. A 6 gal tank wouldn't provide more than a couple showers. (the main reason I want hot water). Steve s/v Good Intentions |
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#7
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in addition, most raw water cooled engines don't have hot water coming out of
them anywhere, except sometimes between the cylinder and the exhaust manifold. pumping raw water slightly warmed by the engine doesn't make for hot water in the heater, and on some raw water cooled engines splitting the hot engine block water away from its next point to the water heater and back to that point can cause uneven engine cooling. note that a 2GM20f is **freshwater** cooled. a raw water cooled engine is a different breed of cat. Most common marine water heaters are equipt with a copper or brass engine water coil.. Therefore raw water shouldn't be circulated through it.. If a person wants to us raw water to heat domestic water, this coil should be replace with something in CuNi. However, most raw water cooled engine have a low temp thermosat and the water temp may never get over 150 degree. Not very much of a rise for stored hot water. A 6 gal tank wouldn't provide more than a couple showers. (the main reason I want hot water). Steve s/v Good Intentions |
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#8
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FTR..mine is fresh water cooled. You are right about sal****er cooled
engines...the HW heater wouldn't last a season without a scarificial anode. Rick On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 12:03:28 -0800, Steve wrote: "JAXAshby" wrote in message ... note that a 2GM20f is **freshwater** cooled. a raw water cooled engine is a different breed of cat. Most common marine water heaters are equipt with a copper or brass engine water coil.. Therefore raw water shouldn't be circulated through it.. If a person wants to us raw water to heat domestic water, this coil should be replace with something in CuNi. However, most raw water cooled engine have a low temp thermosat and the water temp may never get over 150 degree. Not very much of a rise for stored hot water. A 6 gal tank wouldn't provide more than a couple showers. (the main reason I want hot water). Steve s/v Good Intentions -- Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/ |
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#10
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correct you are, thanks again.
the only confusion, my fault, is the heater type....i want an air heater like an auxilliary car heater. I have one from a van with it's own fan. nice for the fall....and any other time in Canada. rick On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 22:26:09 GMT, Marc wrote: Original post I have an 18HP yanmar 2cyl and would like to put in an aux heater from the internal cooling system (glycol). There are many plugs, thermhousing, side of block etc... so i am unsure where to tie in for a send return that won't affect the cooling of the motor. any thoughts? Taking his post at face value with the reference to the "internal cooling system (glycol)" I understood him to mean a Yanmar 2GM20 F and answered accordingly and specifically.. On 30 Mar 2004 19:45:43 GMT, (JAXAshby) wrote: note that a 2GM20f is **freshwater** cooled. a raw water cooled engine is a different breed of cat. I am referencing the Official Yanmar Service Manual for the 2gm20f. One connection is a plug on the fresh water pump on the hose side that leads from the heat exchanger. The other is a plug on the side of the thermostat housing that leads to the heat exchanger. They are both 3/8" npt fittings. On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 16:27:45 -0400, none wrote: I have an 18HP yanmar 2cyl and would like to put in an aux heater from the internal cooling system (glycol). There are many plugs, thermhousing, side of block etc... so i am unsure where to tie in for a send return that won't affect the cooling of the motor. any thoughts? rick -- Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/ |
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