in addition, most raw water cooled engines don't have hot water coming out of
them anywhere, except sometimes between the cylinder and the exhaust manifold.

pumping raw water slightly warmed by the engine doesn't make for hot water in
the heater, and on some raw water cooled engines splitting the hot engine block
water away from its next point to the water heater and back to that point can
cause uneven engine cooling.

note that a 2GM20f is **freshwater** cooled. a raw water cooled engine is
a
different breed of cat.


Most common marine water heaters are equipt with a copper or brass engine
water coil.. Therefore raw water shouldn't be circulated through it..

If a person wants to us raw water to heat domestic water, this coil should
be replace with something in CuNi.

However, most raw water cooled engine have a low temp thermosat and the
water temp may never get over 150 degree. Not very much of a rise for stored
hot water. A 6 gal tank wouldn't provide more than a couple showers. (the
main reason I want hot water).

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Original post

I have an 18HP yanmar 2cyl and would like to put in an aux heater from
the
internal cooling system (glycol). There are many plugs, thermhousing,
side
of block etc... so i am unsure where to tie in for a send return that
won't affect the cooling of the motor. any thoughts?

Taking his post at face value with the reference to the "internal
cooling system (glycol)" I understood him to mean a Yanmar 2GM20 F
and answered accordingly and specifically..




On 30 Mar 2004 19:45:43 GMT, (JAXAshby) wrote:

note that a 2GM20f is **freshwater** cooled. a raw water cooled engine is a
different breed of cat.

I am referencing the Official Yanmar Service Manual for the 2gm20f.

One connection is a plug on the fresh water pump on the hose side that
leads from the heat exchanger. The other is a plug on the side of the
thermostat housing that leads to the heat exchanger. They are both
3/8" npt fittings.



On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 16:27:45 -0400, none
wrote:


I have an 18HP yanmar 2cyl and would like to put in an aux heater from the
internal cooling system (glycol). There are many plugs, thermhousing, side
of block etc... so i am unsure where to tie in for a send return that
won't affect the cooling of the motor. any thoughts?
rick

FTR..mine is fresh water cooled. You are right about sal****er cooled
engines...the HW heater wouldn't last a season without a scarificial anode.
Rick

On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 12:03:28 -0800, Steve wrote:
"JAXAshby" wrote in message
...
note that a 2GM20f is **freshwater** cooled. a raw water cooled engine
is a different breed of cat.


Most common marine water heaters are equipt with a copper or brass engine
water coil.. Therefore raw water shouldn't be circulated through it..

If a person wants to us raw water to heat domestic water, this coil
should
be replace with something in CuNi.

However, most raw water cooled engine have a low temp thermosat and the
water temp may never get over 150 degree. Not very much of a rise for
stored
hot water. A 6 gal tank wouldn't provide more than a couple showers. (the
main reason I want hot water).

Steve
s/v Good Intentions





--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/

correct you are, thanks again.
the only confusion, my fault, is the heater type....i want an air heater
like an auxilliary car heater. I have one from a van with it's own fan.
nice for the fall....and any other time in Canada.
rick

On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 22:26:09 GMT, Marc wrote:

Original post

I have an 18HP yanmar 2cyl and would like to put in an aux heater from
the
internal cooling system (glycol). There are many plugs, thermhousing,
side
of block etc... so i am unsure where to tie in for a send return that
won't affect the cooling of the motor. any thoughts?

Taking his post at face value with the reference to the "internal
cooling system (glycol)" I understood him to mean a Yanmar 2GM20 F
and answered accordingly and specifically..




On 30 Mar 2004 19:45:43 GMT, (JAXAshby) wrote:

note that a 2GM20f is **freshwater** cooled. a raw water cooled engine
is a
different breed of cat.

I am referencing the Official Yanmar Service Manual for the 2gm20f.

One connection is a plug on the fresh water pump on the hose side that
leads from the heat exchanger. The other is a plug on the side of the
thermostat housing that leads to the heat exchanger. They are both
3/8" npt fittings.



On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 16:27:45 -0400, none
wrote:


I have an 18HP yanmar 2cyl and would like to put in an aux heater
from the
internal cooling system (glycol). There are many plugs, thermhousing,
side
of block etc... so i am unsure where to tie in for a send return that
won't affect the cooling of the motor. any thoughts?
rick












--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/

marc, yes you did. at one point, another made mention of his raw water cooled
engine. hence, my post.

Original post

I have an 18HP yanmar 2cyl and would like to put in an aux heater from
the
internal cooling system (glycol). There are many plugs, thermhousing,
side
of block etc... so i am unsure where to tie in for a send return that
won't affect the cooling of the motor. any thoughts?

Taking his post at face value with the reference to the "internal
cooling system (glycol)" I understood him to mean a Yanmar 2GM20 F
and answered accordingly and specifically..




On 30 Mar 2004 19:45:43 GMT, (JAXAshby) wrote:

note that a 2GM20f is **freshwater** cooled. a raw water cooled engine is a
different breed of cat.

I am referencing the Official Yanmar Service Manual for the 2gm20f.

One connection is a plug on the fresh water pump on the hose side that
leads from the heat exchanger. The other is a plug on the side of the
thermostat housing that leads to the heat exchanger. They are both
3/8" npt fittings.



On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 16:27:45 -0400, none
wrote:


I have an 18HP yanmar 2cyl and would like to put in an aux heater from the

internal cooling system (glycol). There are many plugs, thermhousing, side

of block etc... so i am unsure where to tie in for a send return that
won't affect the cooling of the motor. any thoughts?
rick

If you can break into the cooling loop ' between' the engine and the
exhaust manifold - on some engines this is not possible but on some the
connection is by a small rubber hose. Otherwise the next best place
is just before the injection port to the water lift muffler.

I thought we he was talking about a hot water tank.


"WaIIy" wrote in message
...
On 30 Mar 2004 12:55:38 -0800, (Scott) wrote:

Also a good idea to put a bypass on the heater lines, that way you
don't have to fill (6gals) the heater with pink stuff. Or at least
make the lines long enough and accesible. Mine is a PITA to get to.
And don't forget to drain the heater for winter.

Scott


How in the world do you figure you are putting 6 gallons of pink stuff
in the water heater?

I thought we he was talking about a hot water tank.


"WaIIy" wrote in message
...
On 30 Mar 2004 12:55:38 -0800, (Scott) wrote:

Also a good idea to put a bypass on the heater lines, that way you
don't have to fill (6gals) the heater with pink stuff. Or at least
make the lines long enough and accesible. Mine is a PITA to get to.
And don't forget to drain the heater for winter.

Scott


How in the world do you figure you are putting 6 gallons of pink stuff
in the water heater?

on a fresh water cooled engine?
rick

On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 03:31:51 GMT, Rich Hampel wrote:

If you can break into the cooling loop ' between' the engine and the
exhaust manifold - on some engines this is not possible but on some the
connection is by a small rubber hose. Otherwise the next best place
is just before the injection port to the water lift muffler.

on a fresh water cooled engine?
rick

On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 03:31:51 GMT, Rich Hampel wrote:

If you can break into the cooling loop ' between' the engine and the
exhaust manifold - on some engines this is not possible but on some the
connection is by a small rubber hose. Otherwise the next best place
is just before the injection port to the water lift muffler.