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Manual marine head
I use a JABSO manual head.
I used to rebuild the manual head every couple of years, but when the rebuild kits got to $90 and you can one find of these "BIC lighter" units for just over $100 when you wait for a sale, it doesn't take any more time to replace the whole works with a brand new unit and it makes a lot more sense. Still, you need a rebuild kit in the spares. Might not be a Worst Marine available when the cheapie head decides to take a dump of its own. |
Manual marine head
Ytter wrote:
Hi everybody! I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive.I'm thinking of Raritan's Cricket,but do not have any opinion or experience.Is it possible to get your feedback on this important topic. The Cricket is good toilet...but is a "light duty" toilet. For long term reliability and durability, and especially for serious cruising, the PH II is a better choice...it's been rated the best manual toilet under $500 for several decades. If the PH II won't fit in the space, Raritan now offers the PHC, which is the same pump but on the same base as their Compact II and costs a little less. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327 |
Manual marine head
Hi everybody!
I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive.I'm thinking of Raritan's Cricket,but do not have any opinion or experience.Is it possible to get your feedback on this important topic. Thank You, Ytter |
Manual marine head
Gould 0738 wrote:
I use a JABSO manual head. I used to rebuild the manual head every couple of years, but when the rebuild kits got to $90 and you can one find of these "BIC lighter" units for just over $100 when you wait for a sale, it doesn't take any more time to replace the whole works with a brand new unit and it makes a lot more sense. Rebuild kits for toilets costing under $500 aren't THAT expensive--the one for the Jabsco is about $50. And while I wouldn't spend even $50 on a toilet that can be replaced for $99 either, IMO it makes more sense to spend about $200 to have a toilet that'll not only last 20-25 years if it's kept lubricated and rebuilt about every 5-6 years (which is about the max lifespan of a "disposable") at a cost of under $40 for the kit, but also has a pump that can "swallow" flushes that would choke the disposable. Not only does it make more economic sense, but the disposable is highly prone to failures of parts that aren't in the rebuild kit...and they never fail at the dock when you're the only one aboard and have time to run to the store for a new toilet and install it. Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
We've gone through this before in this newsgroup - the PH-II is a
poorly designed plastic toilet - that squirts liquid sewage out through the "water lubricated" top seal - into your face when you bend over to flush it. Do a google newsgroup search in the archives of the RBC newsgroup for the problems with the crappy PH-II toilets. Peggy forgets to say she sold her co. to Raritan and then worked for them - so her recommendations have a taint or bias to them - but why's she's biased to the crappy PH-II is beyond us. On Sat, 27 Mar 2004 15:58:59 GMT, Peggie Hall wrote: Ytter wrote: Hi everybody! I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive.I'm thinking of Raritan's Cricket,but do not have any opinion or experience.Is it possible to get your feedback on this important topic. The Cricket is good toilet...but is a "light duty" toilet. For long term reliability and durability, and especially for serious cruising, the PH II is a better choice...it's been rated the best manual toilet under $500 for several decades. If the PH II won't fit in the space, Raritan now offers the PHC, which is the same pump but on the same base as their Compact II and costs a little less. |
Manual marine head
aunty wrote:
We've gone through this before in this newsgroup... Yep...and you never use the same identity twice. Do a google newsgroup search in the archives of the RBC newsgroup for the problems with the crappy PH-II toilets. Almost all written by you! :) Peggy forgets to say she sold her co. to Raritan and then worked for them - I've never hidden it...never will. And I sign my name to my posts. so her recommendations have a taint or bias to them - but why's she's biased to the crappy PH-II is beyond us. If I am biased, so is the entire industry...because the PH II and its predecessor the PHH have consistently been rated the best manual toilet under $500 for more than two decades. But let's talk your own bias... I have nearly 20 years of experience with literally thousands of owners of just about every toilet ever made, including a few you've prob'ly never even heard of. How much experience do you have that would make your bias more valid than any I might have? Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
That's a lot of poops! Haha. We're glad you're here, Peggie. I figure the
guy had one lousy seal and got a bum squirt (pardon the pun) ...certain to cause a bad attitude if it hits you in the face (yuk yuk.) We can tell who to ignore... Brian http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass "Peggie Hall" wrote in message ... aunty wrote: We've gone through this before in this newsgroup... Yep...and you never use the same identity twice. Do a google newsgroup search in the archives of the RBC newsgroup for the problems with the crappy PH-II toilets. Almost all written by you! :) Peggy forgets to say she sold her co. to Raritan and then worked for them - I've never hidden it...never will. And I sign my name to my posts. so her recommendations have a taint or bias to them - but why's she's biased to the crappy PH-II is beyond us. If I am biased, so is the entire industry...because the PH II and its predecessor the PHH have consistently been rated the best manual toilet under $500 for more than two decades. But let's talk your own bias... I have nearly 20 years of experience with literally thousands of owners of just about every toilet ever made, including a few you've prob'ly never even heard of. How much experience do you have that would make your bias more valid than any I might have? Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
"Best manual head under $500"?
Might well be........but just as I won't bother rebuilding a toilet where the price of a new toilet is very close to the extortionary price of the handful of rubber parts and pieces sold for several dozen dollars, I'd personally look very closely at a VacuFlush before spending 5 boat bucks on a hand pumper. Can't you get into a VacuFlush, (with a brother in law deal) somewhere close to a geezal? No stinky sal****er in the lines, much longer service on a holding tank of given capacity, something like one moving part in the toilet itself, no water slopping out of the bowl if somebody forgets to "dry bowl" after using.....there's a lot to recommend stepping up to a toilet of that caliber *if* that's where your priorities are. We're seeing the VacuFlush as a fairly standard item on new boats in the moderate and higher price categories these days. |
Manual marine head
Gould 0738 wrote:
"Best manual head under $500"? Might well be........but just as I won't bother rebuilding a toilet where the price of a new toilet is very close to the extortionary price of the handful of rubber parts and pieces sold for several dozen dollars, I'd personally look very closely at a VacuFlush before spending 5 boat bucks on a hand pumper. You'd spend upwards of $2k before you'd spend $250? Can't you get into a VacuFlush, (with a brother in law deal) somewhere close to a geezal? I have no idea how much a "geezal" is, but installed price (they have to install it or your warranty is void) of a VacuFlush is upwards of $2000. Just the toilet--IF you can find anyone who'll sell it out the door, 'cuz they're only sold by "authorized VacuFlush Service Centers," and SeaLand will cut 'em loose if they catch 'em doing that--is about $1100. No stinky sal****er in the lines, much longer service on a holding tank of given capacity, Almost every toilet mfr--including Jabsco--now makes at least one model that offer the same benefits and more for 1/3-1/2 the price of a VacuFlush. You can buy a Raritan Atlantes or the top of the line Jabsco "quiet flush"--both of which offer even MORE features than the VacuFlush (muliple flush options including dry flush, full household size one piece china bowl and pedestal, no components scattered all over the boat in inaccessible places) for around $800 from any of the discounters and install it yourself. If you only want a basic macerating toilet that uses pressurized flush water--about half what a raw water toilet needs--the Raritan SeaEra, Wilcox Newport, and the Jabsco 37010 series are readily available for well under $500. something like one moving part in the toilet itself, None actually...at least none that wear... no water slopping out of the bowl if somebody forgets to "dry bowl" after using..... Easily prevented in any toilet--manual or electric--by simply installing a vented loop in the head intake (it goes between the pump and the bowl, btw...not between the thru-hull and the pump). there's a lot to recommend stepping up to a toilet of that caliber *if* that's where your priorities are. We're seeing the VacuFlush as a fairly standard item on new boats in the moderate and higher price categories these days. The power of advertising and high pressure marketing by SeaLand--and practically giving 'em away to boatbuilders now because they're feeling the pressure from other toilets that offer the same benefits for a fraction of the price, that are readily available at discount from all the major retailers, and can even be owner installed without voiding the warranty. I'm not knocking VacuFlush...it's a fine toilet...I had one on my last two boats At the time I installed the last one, VacuFlush was the only game in town if you wanted pressurized fresh water flush and low flush water volume, but that's no longer true...it's now just the most expensive by FAR. If I were to buy a boat on which it had already been installed, I'd be delighted...but no way would I ever spend that much of my own money on a boat toilet again. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
I have no idea how much a "geezal" is, but installed price (they have to
install it or your warranty is void) of a VacuFlush is upwards of $2000. Just the toilet--IF you can find anyone who'll sell it out the door, 'cuz they're only sold by "authorized VacuFlush Service Centers," and SeaLand will cut 'em loose if they catch 'em doing that--is about $1100. A geezal is 10 C-notes. :-) Seems about right. One of the local vendors had a "boat show special" on VacuFlush at $12-1300......but I didn't inquire whether there was any installation at all included at that price. |
Manual marine head
I've got two of them that I installed 18 months ago and they've done nothing
but perform perfectly. Sounds to me more like sour grapes of some variety. -- Keith __ A recent survey of boat owners revealed that only 13 of them would go overboard to save their spouse. However 25 would go overboard to save their hat. "aunty" wrote in message ... We've gone through this before in this newsgroup - the PH-II is a poorly designed plastic toilet - that squirts liquid sewage out through the "water lubricated" top seal - into your face when you bend over to flush it. snip |
Manual marine head
In article ,
"Ytter" wrote: Hi everybody! I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive.I'm thinking of Raritan's Cricket,but do not have any opinion or experience.Is it possible to get your feedback on this important topic. We got one a few years back and like it, but it is a bit different than the Compact it replaced and the Pars we've used on other boats. If we had a lot of guests, I think I'd prefer the PH or Compact, but for the two of us, the Cricket has definite advantages. Check the cost of a rebuild kit. -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Manual marine head
"Ytter" writes:
I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive. snip Lavac, it has no equal, IMHO. -- Lew S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland) Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures |
Manual marine head
Jere Lull wrote:
I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive.I'm thinking of Raritan's Cricket... We got one a few years back and like it, but it is a bit different than the Compact it replaced and the Pars we've used on other boats. Yep...instead of the piston/cylinder pump sitting beside the bowl, the Cricket has a diaphragm pump located directly below the bowl...no moving parts. If we had a lot of guests, I think I'd prefer the PH or Compact, but for the two of us, the Cricket has definite advantages. Check the cost of a rebuild kit. It's not really a rebuild kit, it's a whole new pump except for the housing. Unlike piston/cylinder pumps, the Cricket doesn't have any seals, o-rings, gaskets etc--the parts in the usual "rebuild kit"...so it doesn't require "rebuilding" in the usual sense. In fact, it doesn't even need lubrication. A kit is needed only as often as any other toilet would need a whole new pump assembly. So the price for it should really be compared to the prices of a new pump assemblies for other toilets, not rebuild kits. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
On Tue, 30 Mar 04, 8:47am, Peggie wrote:
A kit is needed only as often as any other toilet would need a whole new pump assembly. How often might that be? ... say, for an average weekender with minimal usage. And wouldn't something like that be better for an "over the side" guy instead of a head with gaskets, o-rings, seals etc that fail from lack of use? Since my divorce, my head sees minimal use and seems to fail only when a guest needs it. ... from lack of use rather than wearing out. Rick |
Manual marine head
On Wed, 31 Mar 04, 8:15pm, Peggie wrote:
Y'all can have all the fun with that one you want to... No M'am, I wouldn't touch that one with a ten foot ... uh ... never mind. Over and out, Rick |
Manual marine head
On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 14:47:23 GMT, Peggie Hall wrote:
good stuff sniped Peggie, I have a question, kinda related to this thread. I think I've read/understood that a well "aired" holding tank is the best way to reduce oders. So, being an engineer, I'm wondering if a two hose holding tank vent arrangement...one "inlet" and one "outlet", might work. The forward hose leads to the bow, the aft hose leads to the stern. The theory is that there would be constant airflow into, (and out of) the holding tank. assuming the vents at each end encouraged such flow. Is this a stupid idea? If so, please don't tell the others in the rec.boats.cruising newsgroup....:) Norm B |
Manual marine head
Peggie, I have a question, kinda related to this thread. I think I've
read/understood that a well "aired" holding tank is the best way to reduce oders. Yep...oxygen is the key to odor elimination. So, being an engineer, I'm wondering if a two hose holding tank vent arrangement...one "inlet" and one "outlet", might work. The forward hose leads to the bow, the aft hose leads to the stern. It would actually work better if both lines went forward...'cuz that would mean air would be forced into the tank no matter which tack you're on. Nor does it require two vent lines if the vent line is short enough ( 5') and has a 1" ID...'cuz air forced in has no trouble pushing gasses in the tank out the same line. The theory is that there would be constant airflow into, (and out of) the holding tank. assuming the vents at each end encouraged such flow. A line leading aft that's too long wouldn't be under enoug pressure to get the job done without an inline exhaust fan to help it. You'd actually be better off with a single 1" short vent. Is this a stupid idea? Noooo...not stupid at all! It only proves you're thinking in the right direction. I'd have to see a diagragm of your installation before I could tell you what you need to do to make it work. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
In article ,
Peggie Hall wrote: Jere Lull wrote: We got a Cricket a few years back and like it, but it is a bit different than the Compact it replaced and the Pars we've used on other boats. Yep...instead of the piston/cylinder pump sitting beside the bowl, the Cricket has a diaphragm pump located directly below the bowl...no moving parts. If we had a lot of guests, I think I'd prefer the PH or Compact, but for the two of us, the Cricket has definite advantages. Check the cost of a rebuild kit. It's not really a rebuild kit, it's a whole new pump except for the housing. Unlike piston/cylinder pumps, the Cricket doesn't have any seals, o-rings, gaskets etc--the parts in the usual "rebuild kit"...so it doesn't require "rebuilding" in the usual sense. In fact, it doesn't even need lubrication. A kit is needed only as often as any other toilet would need a whole new pump assembly. So the price for it should really be compared to the prices of a new pump assemblies for other toilets, not rebuild kits. Oh! I didn't know that. That makes me feel better. It's simplicity was a primary draw. I had gotten tired of lubing and rebuilding every couple-three years. Guess I should get that kit and vacuum pack it. It sure seems to have trouble less often, though it took a while to learn to take long, slow, full-length strokes every time. If only the wet/dry switch weren't in such an inconvenient location. -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Manual marine head
On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 14:47:23 GMT,
Peggie Hall wrote: Jere Lull wrote: I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive.I'm thinking of Raritan's Cricket... We got one a few years back and like it, but it is a bit different than the Compact it replaced and the Pars we've used on other boats. Yep...instead of the piston/cylinder pump sitting beside the bowl, the Cricket has a diaphragm pump located directly below the bowl...no moving parts. If we had a lot of guests, I think I'd prefer the PH or Compact, but for the two of us, the Cricket has definite advantages. Check the cost of a rebuild kit. It's not really a rebuild kit, it's a whole new pump except for the housing. Unlike piston/cylinder pumps, the Cricket doesn't have any seals, o-rings, gaskets etc--the parts in the usual "rebuild kit"...so it doesn't require "rebuilding" in the usual sense. In fact, it doesn't even need lubrication. A kit is needed only as often as any other toilet would need a whole new pump assembly. So the price for it should really be compared to the prices of a new pump assemblies for other toilets, not rebuild kits. What is your opinion of the cricket? we are looking at replacing the head in Windwalker when we add a holding tank, and want something sturdy, reliable, and not too expensive (I know, pick two of the three...) -- Jim Richardson http://www.eskimo.com/~warlock Good judgement comes with experience. Unfortunately, the experience usually comes from bad judgement. |
Manual marine head
Jim Richardson wrote:
What is your opinion of the cricket? we are looking at replacing the head in Windwalker when we add a holding tank, and want something sturdy, reliable, and not too expensive (I know, pick two of the three...) The Cricket is a nice toilet...but not without quirks. For about the same price, the PH II will give you 3 for 3. I have a plane to catch and don't know if I'll have NG access for next week. So if you have more questions, hold 'em...I'll answer 'em when I get home. Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
I bought a cricket head, based largely on advice from this ng. My
experience with it is mixed. It is slightly better then the piston-pump W-C it replaced. I think after having owned it, I can make some observations. The first problem I had was that the first generation (which I bought) came without a piece that they have now. This little ring keeps the poo from blowing back in your face when too much pressure builds up pumping a big load out. This went on for about two years and really soured me on the cricket. I found out from this ng that raritan would send me this blow back stopper part for free, and since then, I haven't had poo blow back into my face. Good thing I check ng's once in a while. At about the same time it started to leak so when I got the part I also ordered a rebuild kit. Turns out nothing was wrong with any of the rubber bits - but the pump base itself had cracked. Which brings me to the next problem I have with crickets - they are all plastic construction. I'm sure this is what keeps the cost down compared to say groccos or skippers or other diaphragm pump based toilets made of bronze. Anyway, I fixed it with some west system, rebuilt it, and the thing finally gave me about 3 years of pretty maintenance free operation, no leaks, no poo blow back, rarely clogging. Those three years of good live-aboard use make it worth the low price in my mind and have softened the hard feelings I had about it during the years of poo blow back and leaking. Now I just recently moved ashore. My toilet sat dry for about a month. Last week I went to go sail out to the islands here and the head wouldn't flush. I couldn't figure out what was wrong and instead of going sailing I spent the whole morning thurs. taking it apart, and handling feces. While I took it apart a stainless bolt that rests in a bronze thread molded into the plastic had siezed and while I torqued on it the plastic broke. Well that was it. I went sailing with a bucket and when I got back, I went to defender's website and ordered a lavac. I'm not saying the cricket's a bad head. You get what you pay for, its pretty good for its price (with the blow back stopper that now comes standard). I actually chose it because I have a small space and it is very compact compared to other heads that aren't the piston types. I won't even consider the piston types - what an absurd design. If raritan came out with a bronze version or the grocco was smaller I'd go with those. Meanwhile, I know the lavac will fit and the rebuild kit for its pump can double as the rebuild kit for my cockpit manual bilge pump. |
Manual marine head
Jere Lull wrote:
If only the wet/dry switch weren't in such an inconvenient location. Raritan offers an "extension pole" that allows it to be operated without sticking your head in the bowl. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
Jere Lull wrote:
If only the wet/dry switch weren't in such an inconvenient location. Raritan offers an "extension pole" that allows it to be operated without sticking your head in the bowl. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
Tom wrote:
I bought a cricket head, based largely on advice from this ng. My experience with it is mixed. It is slightly better then the piston-pump W-C it replaced. I think after having owned it, I can make some observations. The REAL problem with the Cricket is actually an "operator error," common among owners of most toilets, but the Cricket is much less forgiving: incomplete flushing...ceasing to pump as soon as the bowl is empty. In most toilets, that only leaves waste and/or TP sitting in the discharge hose where it rarely creates a clog unless someone flushes something they shouldn't have. But because the Cricket's pump is just a large diaphragm directly below the bowl, unless the use continues to pump till all the waste is pushed out the discharge on the side of the pump, waste and TP build up in it, blocking the discharge, till it produces the backpressure and eruption you describe. After numerous attempts to design a flapper valve strong enough to resist the pressure needed to break up the clog and send it downstream, Raritan--also knowing that few if any boat owners will flush enough to keep waste from building up in it--finally gave up and discontinued production of the Cricket this year. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
Tom wrote:
I bought a cricket head, based largely on advice from this ng. My experience with it is mixed. It is slightly better then the piston-pump W-C it replaced. I think after having owned it, I can make some observations. The REAL problem with the Cricket is actually an "operator error," common among owners of most toilets, but the Cricket is much less forgiving: incomplete flushing...ceasing to pump as soon as the bowl is empty. In most toilets, that only leaves waste and/or TP sitting in the discharge hose where it rarely creates a clog unless someone flushes something they shouldn't have. But because the Cricket's pump is just a large diaphragm directly below the bowl, unless the use continues to pump till all the waste is pushed out the discharge on the side of the pump, waste and TP build up in it, blocking the discharge, till it produces the backpressure and eruption you describe. After numerous attempts to design a flapper valve strong enough to resist the pressure needed to break up the clog and send it downstream, Raritan--also knowing that few if any boat owners will flush enough to keep waste from building up in it--finally gave up and discontinued production of the Cricket this year. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
On Tue, 06 Apr 2004 15:14:43 GMT, Peggie Hall wrote: Tom wrote: I bought a cricket head, based largely on advice from this ng. My experience with it is mixed. It is slightly better then the piston-pump W-C it replaced. I think after having owned it, I can make some observations. The REAL problem with the Cricket is actually an "operator error," common among owners of most toilets, but the Cricket is much less forgiving: incomplete flushing...ceasing to pump as soon as the bowl is empty. In most toilets, that only leaves waste and/or TP sitting in the discharge hose where it rarely creates a clog unless someone flushes something they shouldn't have. But because the Cricket's pump is just a large diaphragm directly below the bowl, unless the use continues to pump till all the waste is pushed out the discharge on the side of the pump, waste and TP build up in it, blocking the discharge, till it produces the backpressure and eruption you describe. After numerous attempts to design a flapper valve strong enough to resist the pressure needed to break up the clog and send it downstream, Raritan--also knowing that few if any boat owners will flush enough to keep waste from building up in it--finally gave up and discontinued production of the Cricket this year. So with that in mind, what head would you recommend for installing in a "new" head. That is, we are going to be ripping out the existing discharge over the side only head, (which is in desperate need of a rebuild anyway) and we are going to put it a holding tank, and new head. Suggestions for the head? -- Jim Richardson http://www.eskimo.com/~warlock "We have to go forth and crush every world view that doesn't believe in tolerance and free speech," - David Brin |
Manual marine head
On Tue, 06 Apr 2004 15:14:43 GMT, Peggie Hall wrote: Tom wrote: I bought a cricket head, based largely on advice from this ng. My experience with it is mixed. It is slightly better then the piston-pump W-C it replaced. I think after having owned it, I can make some observations. The REAL problem with the Cricket is actually an "operator error," common among owners of most toilets, but the Cricket is much less forgiving: incomplete flushing...ceasing to pump as soon as the bowl is empty. In most toilets, that only leaves waste and/or TP sitting in the discharge hose where it rarely creates a clog unless someone flushes something they shouldn't have. But because the Cricket's pump is just a large diaphragm directly below the bowl, unless the use continues to pump till all the waste is pushed out the discharge on the side of the pump, waste and TP build up in it, blocking the discharge, till it produces the backpressure and eruption you describe. After numerous attempts to design a flapper valve strong enough to resist the pressure needed to break up the clog and send it downstream, Raritan--also knowing that few if any boat owners will flush enough to keep waste from building up in it--finally gave up and discontinued production of the Cricket this year. So with that in mind, what head would you recommend for installing in a "new" head. That is, we are going to be ripping out the existing discharge over the side only head, (which is in desperate need of a rebuild anyway) and we are going to put it a holding tank, and new head. Suggestions for the head? -- Jim Richardson http://www.eskimo.com/~warlock "We have to go forth and crush every world view that doesn't believe in tolerance and free speech," - David Brin |
Manual marine head
"Jim Richardson" writes: So with that in mind, what head would you recommend for installing in a "new" head. That is, we are going to be ripping out the existing discharge over the side only head, (which is in desperate need of a rebuild anyway) and we are going to put it a holding tank, and new head. Lavac. It simply has no equal IMHO. Add two (2), Whale 3-way valves and a 2nd dip tube to the holding tank and you can accomplish the following: 1) Deck pump out when at dock. 2) Direct overboard discharge when legal. 3) Pump out holding tank to the sea when in legal area. All that and no added toys required. The Henderson MkV pump supplied with the Lavac is the pump, the Whales direct the flow. End of story. HTH -- Lew S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland) Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures |
Manual marine head
"Jim Richardson" writes: So with that in mind, what head would you recommend for installing in a "new" head. That is, we are going to be ripping out the existing discharge over the side only head, (which is in desperate need of a rebuild anyway) and we are going to put it a holding tank, and new head. Lavac. It simply has no equal IMHO. Add two (2), Whale 3-way valves and a 2nd dip tube to the holding tank and you can accomplish the following: 1) Deck pump out when at dock. 2) Direct overboard discharge when legal. 3) Pump out holding tank to the sea when in legal area. All that and no added toys required. The Henderson MkV pump supplied with the Lavac is the pump, the Whales direct the flow. End of story. HTH -- Lew S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland) Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures |
Manual marine head
Ditto the "Lavac" recommendation. I would have no other. Well, I'd go for a
composting head if I didn't need to carry mountains of peat moss and it fit the same space as the Lavac, but such a creature doesn't exist. -- Karin Conover-Lewis Fair and Balanced since 1959 klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net "Lew Hodgett" wrote in message nk.net... "Ytter" writes: I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive. snip Lavac, it has no equal, IMHO. -- Lew S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland) Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures |
Manual marine head
Ditto the "Lavac" recommendation. I would have no other. Well, I'd go for a
composting head if I didn't need to carry mountains of peat moss and it fit the same space as the Lavac, but such a creature doesn't exist. -- Karin Conover-Lewis Fair and Balanced since 1959 klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net "Lew Hodgett" wrote in message nk.net... "Ytter" writes: I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive. snip Lavac, it has no equal, IMHO. -- Lew S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland) Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures |
Manual marine head
Karin Conover-Lewis wrote:
Ditto the "Lavac" recommendation. I would have no other. Well, I'd go for a composting head if I didn't need to carry mountains of peat moss and it fit the same space as the Lavac, but such a creature doesn't exist. Composting toilets also need power 24/7, Karin, to run the blower and evaporator. Also a means of draining off liquids that exceed what can be evaporated, which in coastal waters means some kind of container for 'em...'cuz they can't legally be drained overboard. Composter are an alternative worth considering on a large powerboat on inland "no discharge" waters, but IMO are totally impractical on any boat in coastal waters. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327 |
Manual marine head
Karin Conover-Lewis wrote:
Ditto the "Lavac" recommendation. I would have no other. Well, I'd go for a composting head if I didn't need to carry mountains of peat moss and it fit the same space as the Lavac, but such a creature doesn't exist. Composting toilets also need power 24/7, Karin, to run the blower and evaporator. Also a means of draining off liquids that exceed what can be evaporated, which in coastal waters means some kind of container for 'em...'cuz they can't legally be drained overboard. Composter are an alternative worth considering on a large powerboat on inland "no discharge" waters, but IMO are totally impractical on any boat in coastal waters. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327 |
Manual marine head
If everything on my boat worked as well as the Lavac, I would sail a lot
more. -- Dennis Gibbons S/V Dark Lady CN35-207 dkgibbons at optonline dot net "Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote in message ... Ditto the "Lavac" recommendation. I would have no other. Well, I'd go for a composting head if I didn't need to carry mountains of peat moss and it fit the same space as the Lavac, but such a creature doesn't exist. -- Karin Conover-Lewis Fair and Balanced since 1959 klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net "Lew Hodgett" wrote in message nk.net... "Ytter" writes: I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive. snip Lavac, it has no equal, IMHO. -- Lew S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland) Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures |
Manual marine head
If everything on my boat worked as well as the Lavac, I would sail a lot
more. -- Dennis Gibbons S/V Dark Lady CN35-207 dkgibbons at optonline dot net "Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote in message ... Ditto the "Lavac" recommendation. I would have no other. Well, I'd go for a composting head if I didn't need to carry mountains of peat moss and it fit the same space as the Lavac, but such a creature doesn't exist. -- Karin Conover-Lewis Fair and Balanced since 1959 klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net "Lew Hodgett" wrote in message nk.net... "Ytter" writes: I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive. snip Lavac, it has no equal, IMHO. -- Lew S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland) Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures |
Manual marine head
Peggy,
Have you ever heard of the following setup: The waste tank is ABOVE the water line with a bottom drain to a seacock. There is a second drain from the top of the tank to the deck pumpout. The head pumps up to the top of the tank. Close the seacock in protected water to keep the bad stuff aboard and then open the seacock when you get out.When offshore, simply leave the seacock open to drain as you go (so to speak). Real simple if you have the freeboard. I wouldn't worry about carrying the weight so high because the tank would always be empty out to sea. -- Dennis Gibbons dkgibbons at optonline dot net "Peggie Hall" wrote in message ... Karin Conover-Lewis wrote: Ditto the "Lavac" recommendation. I would have no other. Well, I'd go for a composting head if I didn't need to carry mountains of peat moss and it fit the same space as the Lavac, but such a creature doesn't exist. Composting toilets also need power 24/7, Karin, to run the blower and evaporator. Also a means of draining off liquids that exceed what can be evaporated, which in coastal waters means some kind of container for 'em...'cuz they can't legally be drained overboard. Composter are an alternative worth considering on a large powerboat on inland "no discharge" waters, but IMO are totally impractical on any boat in coastal waters. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327 |
Manual marine head
Peggy,
Have you ever heard of the following setup: The waste tank is ABOVE the water line with a bottom drain to a seacock. There is a second drain from the top of the tank to the deck pumpout. The head pumps up to the top of the tank. Close the seacock in protected water to keep the bad stuff aboard and then open the seacock when you get out.When offshore, simply leave the seacock open to drain as you go (so to speak). Real simple if you have the freeboard. I wouldn't worry about carrying the weight so high because the tank would always be empty out to sea. -- Dennis Gibbons dkgibbons at optonline dot net "Peggie Hall" wrote in message ... Karin Conover-Lewis wrote: Ditto the "Lavac" recommendation. I would have no other. Well, I'd go for a composting head if I didn't need to carry mountains of peat moss and it fit the same space as the Lavac, but such a creature doesn't exist. Composting toilets also need power 24/7, Karin, to run the blower and evaporator. Also a means of draining off liquids that exceed what can be evaporated, which in coastal waters means some kind of container for 'em...'cuz they can't legally be drained overboard. Composter are an alternative worth considering on a large powerboat on inland "no discharge" waters, but IMO are totally impractical on any boat in coastal waters. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327 |
Manual marine head
Dennis Gibbons wrote:
Peggy, Have you ever heard of the following setup: The waste tank is ABOVE the water line with a bottom drain to a seacock. There is a second drain from the top of the tank to the deck pumpout. The head pumps up to the top of the tank. Close the seacock in protected water to keep the bad stuff aboard and then open the seacock when you get out.When offshore, simply leave the seacock open to drain as you go (so to speak). I'm not crazy about that set up. When the seacock is closed waste has to sit in the line to thru-hull, permeating the hose...any sludge in the tank will end up in that hose, so if you're in coastal waters very long, that can cause problems...and I can't see any reason to go through a tank at sea instead of flushing directly overboard. If the tank vent should become blocked, you'll have problems flushing the toilet due to the backpressure. Worst case would be a blocked tank vent AND a clogged overboard discharge hose at sea in 8'+. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
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