Peggie,
Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl?
Steve
PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the
plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday.

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
t...
wrote:
I have heard that you can clean the build up that occurs from sea
water flushing in the 1 1/2" discharge hoses from the heads using
Acetic acid. Is this true?
Yes, it's true. Distilled white vinegar will dissolve and then prevent
future buildup of sea water minerals in pumps and hoses...not only in
sanitations systems, but in all raw water intake lines.

Use ONLY distilled white vinegar...it's a lot more acetic than cider or
wine vinegars. Plus, it's distilled from alcohol...cider and wine vinegars
are distilled from fruit juice, which can leave a sticky residue.

If you have a serious buildup, you may want to use a 12% solutions of
muriatic acid to clean it out...white vinegar will work, but it may
require several applications, whereas muriatic acid will work a lot
faster.

Once you've cleaned out the system, a cupful--two at the most if the lines
are longer than they should be--once a week, flushed ALL the way through
the system (do NOT leave it sitting in the bowl!) once a week will prevent
it.

Distilled white vinegar is available in any supermarket. If it's not on
the shelf with cider vinegar, it'll be in the cleaning supplies
aisle...'cuz although distilled white vinegar has very limited application
in foods, its primarily a cleaner.

You might want to google "white vinegar" to see all the cleaning jobs it
can do.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...35630&cat=1304

Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl?

Nope. Won't eat rubber either. In fact, owners and pros have used it for
decades to clean sea water minerals out of raw water intake hoses and
raw water engine cooling systems. The instructions for
cleaning/descaling) the Lectra/San electrode pack also call for a 12%
solution of muriatic (hydochloric) acid, flushed into the unit through
the toilet.

PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the
plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday.

SS fittings in the sanitation system plumbing??? Not a good choice,
'cuz urine will corrode 'em. At least one trawler mfr who puts all
fittings on the top of the tank, with a pickup tube inside the tank on
the discharge (a great idea) used stainless fittings and pickup tubes--a
VERY bad idea, 'cuz the tubes are corroding, even falling off in pieces
inside the tank, in just a few years.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl?

Nope. Won't eat rubber either. In fact, owners and pros have used it for
decades to clean sea water minerals out of raw water intake hoses and raw
water engine cooling systems. The instructions for cleaning/descaling) the
Lectra/San electrode pack also call for a 12% solution of muriatic
(hydochloric) acid, flushed into the unit through the toilet.

PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the
plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday.

SS fittings in the sanitation system plumbing??? Not a good choice, 'cuz
urine will corrode 'em. At least one trawler mfr who puts all fittings on
the top of the tank, with a pickup tube inside the tank on the discharge
(a great idea) used stainless fittings and pickup tubes--a VERY bad idea,
'cuz the tubes are corroding, even falling off in pieces inside the tank,
in just a few years.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

Peggy,

Pardon the pun, but you really know your ****!

hahahahaaa!!!

Couldn't resist!


{:0}

Peggie,
The dilemma is the Lloyds certification for thru hull fittings, which call
for fire proof valves against your years of experience. My solution will be
plastic valves at the plastic holding tanks in deference to your experience
and 316L valves at the hull. This solution should satisfy both. Thanks for
the Muriatic tip. It should have been obvious, but I did not consider scale
build up as an issue.
Steve

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl?

Nope. Won't eat rubber either. In fact, owners and pros have used it for
decades to clean sea water minerals out of raw water intake hoses and raw
water engine cooling systems. The instructions for cleaning/descaling) the
Lectra/San electrode pack also call for a 12% solution of muriatic
(hydochloric) acid, flushed into the unit through the toilet.

PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the
plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday.

SS fittings in the sanitation system plumbing??? Not a good choice, 'cuz
urine will corrode 'em. At least one trawler mfr who puts all fittings on
the top of the tank, with a pickup tube inside the tank on the discharge
(a great idea) used stainless fittings and pickup tubes--a VERY bad idea,
'cuz the tubes are corroding, even falling off in pieces inside the tank,
in just a few years.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
The dilemma is the Lloyds certification for thru hull fittings, which call
for fire proof valves against your years of experience.

If you must use metal for your thru-hulls, use bronze. It's a lot more
resistant to urine than SS...almost bullet proof. In fact, the best
high-end manual marine toilets--Blake, W-C Skipper, Groco K etc--are
bronze "thrones."

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

Peggie,
As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a steel
hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve failure
and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic within the
sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The reasoning is
that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater and only
sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously exposed to
waste will be plastic.
Steve

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
The dilemma is the Lloyds certification for thru hull fittings, which
call for fire proof valves against your years of experience.

If you must use metal for your thru-hulls, use bronze. It's a lot more
resistant to urine than SS...almost bullet proof. In fact, the best
high-end manual marine toilets--Blake, W-C Skipper, Groco K etc--are
bronze "thrones."

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

Hokay...sometimes you just have make compromises, and this seems to be
one of those times.

Peggie



Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a steel
hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve failure
and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic within the
sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The reasoning is
that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater and only
sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously exposed to
waste will be plastic.
Steve

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
The dilemma is the Lloyds certification for thru hull fittings, which
call for fire proof valves against your years of experience.
If you must use metal for your thru-hulls, use bronze. It's a lot more
resistant to urine than SS...almost bullet proof. In fact, the best
high-end manual marine toilets--Blake, W-C Skipper, Groco K etc--are
bronze "thrones."

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/




--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Peggie,
As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a
steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve
failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic
within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The
reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater
and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously
exposed to waste will be plastic.
Steve


You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it
effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? It's
obvious she's clueless by her reply that totally failed to consider the
consequences of bronze and steel mated together.

Have you considered monel? Marvelous stuff! I understand it is compatible
with steel being an alloy nickel and copper with some iron.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel

Wilbur Hubbard

On May 15, 6:35 pm, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:
"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message

...

Peggie,
As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a
steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve
failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic
within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The
reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater
and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously
exposed to waste will be plastic.
Steve

You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it
effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? It's
obvious she's clueless by her reply that totally failed to consider the
consequences of bronze and steel mated together.

Have you considered monel? Marvelous stuff! I understand it is compatible
with steel being an alloy nickel and copper with some iron.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel

Wilbur Hubbard

I am just a little confused by your response here Oh, Great One...are
you suggesting that he re-plate his hull with Monel.,..yea that is
going to happen,
or have custom seacock made of said material...they may be
available..but not off the shelf at any chandelry that I know of.

On Thu, 15 May 2008 18:35:26 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it
effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you?

You say any. I think the female college Chemistry teachers would
figure it out real fast. If you say there is a sex linked learning
disability, I might buy that.

Casady