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#1
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Larry wrote in
: Still, I'd like to add an autopilot IF (and only if) it can operate at trolling speeds (about 1 knot or 1.5 mph). ComNav makes a few units which look like they'd work, but I'd like to hear that from someone other than the manufacturer or salesman, preferably someone who owns one. The boat is equipped with a Garmin 540 combination fishfinder/GPS chartplotter which issues NMEA sentences. -- If this is the only electronics in your system, I think your GPS, not your autopilot, is your problem. GPS only CALCULATES your direction of travel. The GPS signal only allows its electronics to figure out your position every second. That display that says your boat is pointed 085 degrees is only a guesstimate of the GPS electronics because it looked at the last few seconds of where you've been and where you are....a little 085 from where you were a second ago. At low speed, a GPS is damned near USELESS as a compass input for the autopilot to follow and shouldn't be used. Too many sailboats try to autopilot in poor wind conditions with the same wandering results because the GPS' idea of direction of travel over ground is wandering, too. What you need for the autopilot is a COMPASS SENSOR. Some are also called Fluxgate Sensors because they use a solid state magnetic field sensor, not a real compass. This device will tell your autopilot which direction the boat is pointed in EVEN AT ZERO MPH, always telling the autopilot to follow a MAGNETIC COURSE from its information, not a wandering GPS course from lack of information. Under 3-4 knots, the GPS is useless as a directional compass sense device because of its calculated guess. Use a real Compass Sensor. Most good autopilots have at least a Fluxgate magnetic sensor as part of their package. Unfortunately, most installations pay way too little attention to the fluxgate's mounting position way too close to magnetic objects mounted "out of sight" in lockers full of magnetic junk and CURRENT CARRYING DC POWER WIRING, which always radiates a strong magnetic field, which drags off the fluxgate or compass sensor's calibration in some odd fashion. The magnetic sensor, whether fluxgate or real compass, needs to be near the CG of the boat's axii, all 3 of them. It needs to be away from all power wiring carrying any kind of appreciable DC CURRENT and away from ALL MAGNETIC OBJECTS, anything made of steel or brass. That's a pretty tall order in a small boat, but very necessary to maintain compass course accuracy at very low speeds. On a rolling pitching boat, the solid state compass sensors are much better than the mechanical ones, which get moving around from the motion and give false readings. It's also best to get one that's "self compensating", one that you simply turn in a circle a few times, slowly, and it makes its own compensation chart which it stores to make more accurate fixes. http://www.maretron.com/products/ssc200.php just as an example..... |
#2
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On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 03:57:55 +0000, Larry wrote:
away from ALL MAGNETIC OBJECTS, anything made of steel or brass. Since when is brass magnetic? Casady |
#3
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The autopilot I had used a fluxgate compass. The trolling problem was
the result of incorrect response. It would overcompensate at low speeds because of the amount of time it took between issuing a command (it turned the wheel which directed the jet) and the boat moving. There was no rudder feedback nor could it have been added easily. While there were multiple levels of sensitivity which could be set, none of them worked at low speed with the result that the craft overcompensated. I think the unit was a Raymarine Sportpilot. Normally, one mounts the fluxgate compass as close to the bow as possible, but (naturally) away from anything ferrous like an anchor. The only purpose of a GPS might be to plot a long course, but, as I said, the main reason for adding an autopilot would be for trolling single-handed. I've been boating for over 50 years, and have sailed all around the Carribean, so I'm not a novice. I've owned boats from 14 to 38 ft. and am an EE so don't be afraid to get technical. -- Larry rapp at lmr dot com |
#4
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On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 10:49:18 -0400, Larry wrote:
The autopilot I had used a fluxgate compass. The trolling problem was the result of incorrect response. It would overcompensate at low speeds because of the amount of time it took between issuing a command (it turned the wheel which directed the jet) and the boat moving. There was no rudder feedback nor could it have been added easily. While there were multiple levels of sensitivity which could be set, none of them worked at low speed with the result that the craft overcompensated. I think the unit was a Raymarine Sportpilot. Normally, one mounts the fluxgate compass as close to the bow as possible, but (naturally) away from anything ferrous like an anchor. The only purpose of a GPS might be to plot a long course, but, as I said, the main reason for adding an autopilot would be for trolling single-handed. I've been boating for over 50 years, and have sailed all around the Carribean, so I'm not a novice. I've owned boats from 14 to 38 ft. and am an EE so don't be afraid to get technical. Give it a rudder so it can become the happy little second-order system it was born to be. |
#5
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Goofball_star_dot_etal wrote:
Give it a rudder so it can become the happy little second-order system it was born to be. Well, you can't add a rudder to a jet boat. I could have connected the sensor to the tube used to steer the craft, but since the the entire coupling was underwater, it would have been quite a production and I still don't know that it would have worked correctly. -- Larry R rapp at lmr dot com |
#6
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#7
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On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:44:36 +0000, Larry wrote:
(Richard Casady) wrote in : Since when is brass magnetic? Casady ***** http://www.kayelaby.npl.co.uk/genera...2_6/2_6_6.html This helpful table compilation from NPL confirms that brass is essentially non magnetic, as it happens. Brian W |
#8
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On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 17:06:41 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote: On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:44:36 +0000, Larry wrote: (Richard Casady) wrote in t: Since when is brass magnetic? Casady ***** http://www.kayelaby.npl.co.uk/genera...2_6/2_6_6.html This helpful table compilation from NPL confirms that brass is essentially non magnetic, as it happens. I tried to follow the link and got the runaround. Thank you for getting there and giving us a report. Maybe there is somthing wrong with the SSSW [Suck****SoftWare]. Casady |
#9
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On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:44:36 +0000, Larry wrote:
(Richard Casady) wrote in : Since when is brass magnetic? Casady http://www.kayelaby.npl.co.uk/genera...2_6/2_6_6.html That website has nothing to say. It lists magnetism in a table of contents but when you click on it, it goes back to a previous table of contents. There seems to be nothing there. Casady |
#10
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Richard Casady wrote:
On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:44:36 +0000, Larry wrote: (Richard Casady) wrote in t: Since when is brass magnetic? Casady http://www.kayelaby.npl.co.uk/genera...2_6/2_6_6.html That website has nothing to say. It lists magnetism in a table of contents but when you click on it, it goes back to a previous table of contents. There seems to be nothing there. Casady It showed magnetic susceptibility of brass as 1, steel as 150. Less than 1% as magnetic as steel? Richard |
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