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#1
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posted to rec.boats.cruising,rec.boats.electronics
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In article ,
"Armond Perretta" wrote: Sorry for crosspost but r.b.e doesn't seem to see much traffic these days. I am trying to rebuild several old handheld VHF battery packs that seem no longer commercially available. ... Problem is I am not at all sure how to secure a conductor from "plus" to "minus" with the cells to make a strong and long-lasting series connection. Is there some kind of conductive adhesive or conductive film that can be used for this application? Larry, where are you when we need you (weak humor)? Conductive adhesive does not work for these currents. Get them from a manufacturer's distributor - they will weld them with strips in any shape you like, or even have them in your desired shape. By far the best option. HTH Marc -- remove bye and from mercial to get valid e-mail http://www.heusser.com |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.cruising,rec.boats.electronics
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"Armond Perretta" wrote in
: I am trying to rebuild several old handheld VHF battery packs that seem no longer commercially available. www.batteriesplus.com Our local stores can take apart many, but not all, battery packs and replace the cells with new, even improved ones. My old Standard marine walkie has 2.8AH Ni-mh cells replacing the old .6AH Ni-Cds. Batteries Plus has the spot welding equipment right in the stores to safely weld the straps onto the cells without damaging either, same as the manufacturer of the pack. The best rebuilders hardly make a scratch breaking open the plastic welds, but, of course, there's no guarantee. As he's breaking something that's patently worthless, there's no risk. If you worry about him getting it apart, do what I do, take the pack apart, YOURSELF, and carry the guts of it into the store, then reseal the pack yourself. That 2.8AH power beast costs about half what any Waste Marine would want for a 600maH pack in a bubble pack. Having over 4 times the capacity of the original is no-extra-charge...(c; |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.cruising,rec.boats.electronics
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Larry, where are you when we need you (weak humor)? http://www.powerstream.com/spot-welder.htm This is how the tabs should be put on the cells. The holes are for soldering AWAY FROM the cells so as not to heat them. They are for wires. When someone makes a pack with the proper welding machine, there is no soldering except for the output wires, which is the proper way to make a pack. |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.cruising,rec.boats.electronics
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"Larry" wrote
http://www.powerstream.com/spot-welder.htm This is how the tabs should be put on the cells. Umm, I don't have one of those... |
#5
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posted to rec.boats.cruising,rec.boats.electronics
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"Ernest Scribbler" wrote in
: "Larry" wrote http://www.powerstream.com/spot-welder.htm This is how the tabs should be put on the cells. Umm, I don't have one of those... Precisely why you need to seek out a battery shop that does.... |
#6
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posted to rec.boats.cruising,rec.boats.electronics
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"Larry" wrote
Precisely why you need to seek out a battery shop that does.... Maybe in a perfect world, but Marc Heusser said I'm also free to solder them if I like. (I thought it was quite the magnanimous gesture.) |
#7
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posted to rec.boats.cruising,rec.boats.electronics
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![]() wrote in message ... I think you need to move up to the next larger sized tin foil hat. This one is too tight. Bad, bad advice. http://people.csail.mit.edu/rahimi/helmet/ |
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