What is the recommended procedure(s) for assessing damage and coping
with salt water gaining access for a few hours to the engine area which
is located amidships in the upper bilge area ?

The engine is a Universal M4-30 diesel, which is a marinized Kubota I'm
told, which had/has oil in it.

I am uncertain to what extent this occurred as I paid the marina for
hurricane preparation [I was in the hospital at the time] which
specifically included screwing in the sump drain plug located in the
lower keel, which they didn't do, I have belatedly learned.

The storm surge was above the sump drain outlet but precisely how much
above I've yet to determine. I'm told it was mercifully brief, i.e. a
matter of hours. So, at this point, I'm uncertain as to the salt water
level in the engine compartment or for exactly how long.

Appreciatively,
--
Courtney Thomas
s/v Mutiny
lying Oriental, NC
WDB5619

Oh Courtney,
This is bad.
It is possible that no water got into the engine, but IMHO Murphy was an
optomist.

If water got inside the engine and it was not drained, refilled and run
in short order, it is probably damaged.

If water got into the lube oil sump and it was drained in less than a
day without moving the engine at all, it might survive.

If water got into the cylinder bore, the injectors have to be removed,
the lube oil drained and refilled (some water will get by the pistons),
then engine engine spun to blow the bores clear. This has to happen in
hours or the corrosion of the bore surface will cause damage.

Both cases require that you then start the engine and run until lube
temperature gets well up there to dry out the internal components. You
still need to do a short cycle on the lube oil.

Unfortunately - It sounds like it is too late for any of that.

= Have a witness with you for future litigation =

First - See if the lube oil sump says it is over the full mark. This
would indicate that water got into the sump - do the lube oil drain.

Assuming you do not have a big collection of expensive tools. (see below)

Next - Mark something that roates, so you know where you started. With
the lube oil drained, try to rock the crankshaft by hand (use little
leverage as possible) a couple (10deg) each way. If it moves
relatively easily, try more, like 60deg. Pay attention, if you feel the
engine stick near where you started - stop. There may be corrosion
damage to the rings and bores and pushing the pistons over it will only
do more damage. Lets hope we're good to here.

Last check - Unscrew the valve gear (some people call it a rocker)
cover. Rotate the engine slowly through two complete revolutions and
watch (like a hawk) the valve stems and rocker arms. It they move
smoothly and they do not snap when closing then there is probably no
corrosion on the valve stems.

If you are good to here - exhale - there is not like to be anything
expensive (like anything on a boat is cheap) to repair.

You might as well check the valve lash while the cover is off. If a one
or more come out bigger than I should be do not readjust it now. That
maybe an artifact of the imersion, run the engine a couple an hours or
so and measure again.

There is still the possible damage to the starter motor, alternator
oilpressure sender and I am not sure what else electric on the outside
of the motor. Be aware and get anything in question inspected.

If you have lots of expensive tools around, back up five paragraphs.
Then you pull out the injectors and the intake manifold and use your
fiberoptic to look inside the combustion spaces for evidence of
corrosion damage.

Please write back to the group and tell us all how it came out.

Matt Colie (BTDT) Lifelong Waterman


Courtney Thomas wrote:

What is the recommended procedure(s) for assessing damage and coping
with salt water gaining access for a few hours to the engine area which
is located amidships in the upper bilge area ?

The engine is a Universal M4-30 diesel, which is a marinized Kubota I'm
told, which had/has oil in it.

I am uncertain to what extent this occurred as I paid the marina for
hurricane preparation [I was in the hospital at the time] which
specifically included screwing in the sump drain plug located in the
lower keel, which they didn't do, I have belatedly learned.

The storm surge was above the sump drain outlet but precisely how much
above I've yet to determine. I'm told it was mercifully brief, i.e. a
matter of hours. So, at this point, I'm uncertain as to the salt water
level in the engine compartment or for exactly how long.

Appreciatively,

Oh Courtney,
This is bad.
It is possible that no water got into the engine, but IMHO Murphy was an
optomist.

If water got inside the engine and it was not drained, refilled and run
in short order, it is probably damaged.

If water got into the lube oil sump and it was drained in less than a
day without moving the engine at all, it might survive.

If water got into the cylinder bore, the injectors have to be removed,
the lube oil drained and refilled (some water will get by the pistons),
then engine engine spun to blow the bores clear. This has to happen in
hours or the corrosion of the bore surface will cause damage.

Both cases require that you then start the engine and run until lube
temperature gets well up there to dry out the internal components. You
still need to do a short cycle on the lube oil.

Unfortunately - It sounds like it is too late for any of that.

= Have a witness with you for future litigation =

First - See if the lube oil sump says it is over the full mark. This
would indicate that water got into the sump - do the lube oil drain.

Assuming you do not have a big collection of expensive tools. (see below)

Next - Mark something that roates, so you know where you started. With
the lube oil drained, try to rock the crankshaft by hand (use little
leverage as possible) a couple (10deg) each way. If it moves
relatively easily, try more, like 60deg. Pay attention, if you feel the
engine stick near where you started - stop. There may be corrosion
damage to the rings and bores and pushing the pistons over it will only
do more damage. Lets hope we're good to here.

Last check - Unscrew the valve gear (some people call it a rocker)
cover. Rotate the engine slowly through two complete revolutions and
watch (like a hawk) the valve stems and rocker arms. It they move
smoothly and they do not snap when closing then there is probably no
corrosion on the valve stems.

If you are good to here - exhale - there is not like to be anything
expensive (like anything on a boat is cheap) to repair.

You might as well check the valve lash while the cover is off. If a one
or more come out bigger than I should be do not readjust it now. That
maybe an artifact of the imersion, run the engine a couple an hours or
so and measure again.

There is still the possible damage to the starter motor, alternator
oilpressure sender and I am not sure what else electric on the outside
of the motor. Be aware and get anything in question inspected.

If you have lots of expensive tools around, back up five paragraphs.
Then you pull out the injectors and the intake manifold and use your
fiberoptic to look inside the combustion spaces for evidence of
corrosion damage.

Please write back to the group and tell us all how it came out.

Matt Colie (BTDT) Lifelong Waterman


Courtney Thomas wrote:

What is the recommended procedure(s) for assessing damage and coping
with salt water gaining access for a few hours to the engine area which
is located amidships in the upper bilge area ?

The engine is a Universal M4-30 diesel, which is a marinized Kubota I'm
told, which had/has oil in it.

I am uncertain to what extent this occurred as I paid the marina for
hurricane preparation [I was in the hospital at the time] which
specifically included screwing in the sump drain plug located in the
lower keel, which they didn't do, I have belatedly learned.

The storm surge was above the sump drain outlet but precisely how much
above I've yet to determine. I'm told it was mercifully brief, i.e. a
matter of hours. So, at this point, I'm uncertain as to the salt water
level in the engine compartment or for exactly how long.

Appreciatively,