On 2008-02-26 04:32:41 -0500, "Edgar" said:

Let me get this right. You used silicone as the makers recommended and it
was satisfactory for 19 years although you then had a bit of trouble
dismantling the fitting. But you managed it Ok. And now you want to try
something different and untested so that in another 19 years it _may_ be a
bit easier to dismantle??!!

Sorry, but I can't disagree with the original poster.

SOME of us expect to do jobs again in the future, so look ahead to do
the job better.

I personally don't categorize silicone caulks as adhesive, but I'm
still paying attention to the thread.

(Personally, this would be exactly the second suitable use of any
silicone-based caulk I might make; the jury is still out but since
StaLok suggests other formulations, I don't expect to use or suggest
such.)

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

On 2008-02-27 07:19:21 -0500, WaIIy said:

On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 10:43:23 GMT, Jere Lull wrote:

I personally don't categorize silicone caulks as adhesive, but I'm
still paying attention to the thread.

It's a strong and versatile adhesive in the right application.

Okay, I'll admit that I "glued" our portlights into the frames with
clear LifeSeal, a silicone, but the glue area is immense compared to
the stresses. Those have held up over a decade.

Where I used it to set some frames into the fiberglass, though, the
seal soon broke and nothing stuck to where it'd been without serious
work getting all the residue gone.

5200, on the other hand, is classed as a glue. It's tenacity puts
silicone to shame.

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Wilbur Hubbard wrote:

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
...

On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 16:32:32 -0800 (PST), wrote:


I'm re-rigging my boat and re-using the Stalok terminals that have
been in use for 19 years. I put them new when I re-rigged it 19 years
ago. The instructions say to put a grape-sized lump of silicone
sealant in the terminal "base" when assembling the terminal so as to
keep water out.

Well, I did that and it kept the interior almost dry - but the
silicone acts like an adhesive and makes the "wedged" wire really
really hard to get out of the wedge shaped cavity in the body.

So, I wondering about some long-term sealer-filler that not an
adhesive. I've gotten 8 of 8 apart so far, but don't want to go thru
this again.

Maybe Dolfinite (it shrinks). Ideally something that expands when it
cures, is rubbery, not UV bothered, and zero adhesion to s/s.

Suggestions?

I doubt that the problem is primarily due to the sealant you used when
assembling the fittings as I have disassemble a number of fittings
installed without no sealant and they were extremely difficult to
disassemble. When finally taken apart I found that there had been so
much force applied as to cause the wires to indented the wedge.

To disassemble cut the cable flush with the fitting using a 4 inch
hand grinder; remove the threaded outer sleeve and supporting the
sleeve drive the cable and wedge out using a punch having a diameter
nearly that of the wire and a heavy hammer. Replace the wedge and
reuse.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)


Close, but no cigar! What's with the 4" hand grinder when a simple hacksaw
works just fine?

But, you ARE right (this is the second or third time) about the force being
applied to the cone. That's the patented secret of a Sta-Lok mechanical
terminal. It gets its strength from both the cone compressing upon and
gripping the "1" part of the 1X19 while it bends the ends of the "19" over
the nut and compresses them at about a 30 degree angle on the same taper in
the body of the terminal. The sealant is only used to keep salt water out of
the inside of the terminal where it will fester and cause corrosion,
electrolysis and other problems.

Stop me if I'm wrong, but I don't think there's a "1" part and a "19"
part; there are 19 different "1" parts. And the cone actually goes on 7
of those "1" parts, with 12 more on the outside.

DT

"dt" wrote in message
...
Wilbur Hubbard wrote:

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
...

On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 16:32:32 -0800 (PST), wrote:


I'm re-rigging my boat and re-using the Stalok terminals that have
been in use for 19 years. I put them new when I re-rigged it 19 years
ago. The instructions say to put a grape-sized lump of silicone
sealant in the terminal "base" when assembling the terminal so as to
keep water out.

Well, I did that and it kept the interior almost dry - but the
silicone acts like an adhesive and makes the "wedged" wire really
really hard to get out of the wedge shaped cavity in the body.

So, I wondering about some long-term sealer-filler that not an
adhesive. I've gotten 8 of 8 apart so far, but don't want to go thru
this again.

Maybe Dolfinite (it shrinks). Ideally something that expands when it
cures, is rubbery, not UV bothered, and zero adhesion to s/s.

Suggestions?

I doubt that the problem is primarily due to the sealant you used when
assembling the fittings as I have disassemble a number of fittings
installed without no sealant and they were extremely difficult to
disassemble. When finally taken apart I found that there had been so
much force applied as to cause the wires to indented the wedge.

To disassemble cut the cable flush with the fitting using a 4 inch
hand grinder; remove the threaded outer sleeve and supporting the
sleeve drive the cable and wedge out using a punch having a diameter
nearly that of the wire and a heavy hammer. Replace the wedge and
reuse.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)


Close, but no cigar! What's with the 4" hand grinder when a simple
hacksaw works just fine?

But, you ARE right (this is the second or third time) about the force
being applied to the cone. That's the patented secret of a Sta-Lok
mechanical terminal. It gets its strength from both the cone compressing
upon and gripping the "1" part of the 1X19 while it bends the ends of the
"19" over the nut and compresses them at about a 30 degree angle on the
same taper in the body of the terminal. The sealant is only used to keep
salt water out of the inside of the terminal where it will fester and
cause corrosion, electrolysis and other problems.

Stop me if I'm wrong, but I don't think there's a "1" part and a "19"
part; there are 19 different "1" parts. And the cone actually goes on 7
of those "1" parts, with 12 more on the outside.

DT

Stop! You are wrong. The nomenclature of wire such as 1X19 means the
following: The first is the number of strands and the second number is the
number of wires in each strand. So, 1X19 is one strand made up of 19 wires.
Modern 1X19 does, indeed, have a core of sorts consisting of seven wires
around which the other 12 are twisted. This core is the part around which
the cone is compressed.

The purist might say a 1X19 is not a wire rope at all for it consists of
only one strand made up of 19 thick wires but it is generally called a wire
rope.

Wilbur Hubbard

On 2008-02-28 09:28:26 -0500, "Roger Long" said:

All boat owners should be required to get a note from their mother
before they are allowed to purchase 5200.

Oh GAWD, I almost broke a gut just now!

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/