I'm re-rigging my boat and re-using the Stalok terminals that have
been in use for 19 years. I put them new when I re-rigged it 19 years
ago. The instructions say to put a grape-sized lump of silicone
sealant in the terminal "base" when assembling the terminal so as to
keep water out.

Well, I did that and it kept the interior almost dry - but the
silicone acts like an adhesive and makes the "wedged" wire really
really hard to get out of the wedge shaped cavity in the body.

So, I wondering about some long-term sealer-filler that not an
adhesive. I've gotten 8 of 8 apart so far, but don't want to go thru
this again.

Maybe Dolfinite (it shrinks). Ideally something that expands when it
cures, is rubbery, not UV bothered, and zero adhesion to s/s.

Suggestions?

On Feb 26, 8:32 am, wrote:
I'm re-rigging my boat and re-using the Stalok terminals that have
been in use for 19 years. I put them new when I re-rigged it 19 years
ago. The instructions say to put a grape-sized lump of silicone
sealant in the terminal "base" when assembling the terminal so as to
keep water out.

Well, I did that and it kept the interior almost dry - but the
silicone acts like an adhesive and makes the "wedged" wire really
really hard to get out of the wedge shaped cavity in the body.

So, I wondering about some long-term sealer-filler that not an
adhesive. I've gotten 8 of 8 apart so far, but don't want to go thru
this again.

Maybe Dolfinite (it shrinks). Ideally something that expands when it
cures, is rubbery, not UV bothered, and zero adhesion to s/s.

Suggestions?

"Secomastic compound is a general purpose, oil based joint sealant,
possessing excellent adhesion and durability. The body of the sealant
remains flexible under a paintable skin which forms within 24 to 48
hours dependent on weather conditions. Secomastic maintains a
weathertight seal whilst accommodating the limited movements
associated with the recommended applications. Secomastic is suitable
for general pointing, bedding and joint sealing up to 20 mm wide.

Sizes: 400ml Colours: Black, Brown, Fawn, Grey, White"

Even after 20 years in sunlight, remove the thin skin and it still
sticks like new, we are using it since 40 years on mainly metal
roofings, I since 20 years on my sailboat, great is it never cures
below the skin, but can not be used as a glue (like silicone or some
polymers)

Henry

wrote in message
...
I'm re-rigging my boat and re-using the Stalok terminals that have
been in use for 19 years. I put them new when I re-rigged it 19 years
ago. The instructions say to put a grape-sized lump of silicone
sealant in the terminal "base" when assembling the terminal so as to
keep water out.

Well, I did that and it kept the interior almost dry - but the
silicone acts like an adhesive and makes the "wedged" wire really
really hard to get out of the wedge shaped cavity in the body.

So, I wondering about some long-term sealer-filler that not an
adhesive. I've gotten 8 of 8 apart so far, but don't want to go thru
this again.

Maybe Dolfinite (it shrinks). Ideally something that expands when it
cures, is rubbery, not UV bothered, and zero adhesion to s/s.

Suggestions?

Let me get this right. You used silicone as the makers recommended and it
was satisfactory for 19 years although you then had a bit of trouble
dismantling the fitting. But you managed it Ok. And now you want to try
something different and untested so that in another 19 years it _may_ be a
bit easier to dismantle??!!
Your priorities seem quite wrong to me.
What is more, some of the substances that people are suggesting sound as if
they will be even more difficult to dismantle and you will not have the same
assurance that they will work like the one the manufacturers recommended.
I recommend you stick (sorry!) with the silicone.

On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 10:32:41 +0100, "Edgar"
wrote:


wrote in message
...


Let me get this right. You used silicone as the makers recommended and it
was satisfactory for 19 years although you then had a bit of trouble
dismantling the fitting. But you managed it Ok. And now you want to try
something different and untested so that in another 19 years it _may_ be a
bit easier to dismantle??!!
Your priorities seem quite wrong to me.

There is a saying: 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'

Casady

On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 14:54:23 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

There is a saying: 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'

There is another saying that: "the chain is only as strong as its
weakest link". In heavy winds almost any rigging failure will result
in loss of the mast.

"Edgar" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
I'm re-rigging my boat and re-using the Stalok terminals that have
been in use for 19 years. I put them new when I re-rigged it 19 years
ago. The instructions say to put a grape-sized lump of silicone
sealant in the terminal "base" when assembling the terminal so as to
keep water out.

Well, I did that and it kept the interior almost dry - but the
silicone acts like an adhesive and makes the "wedged" wire really
really hard to get out of the wedge shaped cavity in the body.

So, I wondering about some long-term sealer-filler that not an
adhesive. I've gotten 8 of 8 apart so far, but don't want to go thru
this again.

Maybe Dolfinite (it shrinks). Ideally something that expands when it
cures, is rubbery, not UV bothered, and zero adhesion to s/s.

Suggestions?

Let me get this right. You used silicone as the makers recommended and it
was satisfactory for 19 years although you then had a bit of trouble
dismantling the fitting. But you managed it Ok. And now you want to try
something different and untested so that in another 19 years it _may_ be a
bit easier to dismantle??!!
Your priorities seem quite wrong to me.
What is more, some of the substances that people are suggesting sound as
if they will be even more difficult to dismantle and you will not have the
same assurance that they will work like the one the manufacturers
recommended.
I recommend you stick (sorry!) with the silicone.


Edgar, you impress me with your insight. I too was aghast at this poor
fellow's conclusion that silicon sealant caused the cone to "stick" to the
inner strands of his rigging wire. Simply not the case. The cone is designed
to squeeze tightly onto the inner core of the 1X19 wire and no amount of
silicon sealant could stick it to the wire without the mechanical action of
the cone squeezing onto the wire.

Obviously the guy's an idiot when it comes to any kind of a mechanical
systems. Alas, this is all too common these days of girly-men who not only
don't understand manly pursuits but are proud of letting the entire world
know their abject ignorance. The answer is simple. Purchase a supply of new
cones and don't bother trying to re-use the old ones. Duh!

Wilbur Hubbard

On 2008-02-26 04:32:41 -0500, "Edgar" said:

Let me get this right. You used silicone as the makers recommended and it
was satisfactory for 19 years although you then had a bit of trouble
dismantling the fitting. But you managed it Ok. And now you want to try
something different and untested so that in another 19 years it _may_ be a
bit easier to dismantle??!!

Sorry, but I can't disagree with the original poster.

SOME of us expect to do jobs again in the future, so look ahead to do
the job better.

I personally don't categorize silicone caulks as adhesive, but I'm
still paying attention to the thread.

(Personally, this would be exactly the second suitable use of any
silicone-based caulk I might make; the jury is still out but since
StaLok suggests other formulations, I don't expect to use or suggest
such.)

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

On 2008-02-27 07:19:21 -0500, WaIIy said:

On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 10:43:23 GMT, Jere Lull wrote:

I personally don't categorize silicone caulks as adhesive, but I'm
still paying attention to the thread.

It's a strong and versatile adhesive in the right application.

Okay, I'll admit that I "glued" our portlights into the frames with
clear LifeSeal, a silicone, but the glue area is immense compared to
the stresses. Those have held up over a decade.

Where I used it to set some frames into the fiberglass, though, the
seal soon broke and nothing stuck to where it'd been without serious
work getting all the residue gone.

5200, on the other hand, is classed as a glue. It's tenacity puts
silicone to shame.

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 16:32:32 -0800 (PST), wrote:

I'm re-rigging my boat and re-using the Stalok terminals that have
been in use for 19 years. I put them new when I re-rigged it 19 years
ago. The instructions say to put a grape-sized lump of silicone
sealant in the terminal "base" when assembling the terminal so as to
keep water out.

Well, I did that and it kept the interior almost dry - but the
silicone acts like an adhesive and makes the "wedged" wire really
really hard to get out of the wedge shaped cavity in the body.

So, I wondering about some long-term sealer-filler that not an
adhesive. I've gotten 8 of 8 apart so far, but don't want to go thru
this again.

Maybe Dolfinite (it shrinks). Ideally something that expands when it
cures, is rubbery, not UV bothered, and zero adhesion to s/s.

Suggestions?

I doubt that the problem is primarily due to the sealant you used when
assembling the fittings as I have disassemble a number of fittings
installed without no sealant and they were extremely difficult to
disassemble. When finally taken apart I found that there had been so
much force applied as to cause the wires to indented the wedge.

To disassemble cut the cable flush with the fitting using a 4 inch
hand grinder; remove the threaded outer sleeve and supporting the
sleeve drive the cable and wedge out using a punch having a diameter
nearly that of the wire and a heavy hammer. Replace the wedge and
reuse.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 16:32:32 -0800 (PST), wrote:

I'm re-rigging my boat and re-using the Stalok terminals that have
been in use for 19 years. I put them new when I re-rigged it 19 years
ago. The instructions say to put a grape-sized lump of silicone
sealant in the terminal "base" when assembling the terminal so as to
keep water out.

Well, I did that and it kept the interior almost dry - but the
silicone acts like an adhesive and makes the "wedged" wire really
really hard to get out of the wedge shaped cavity in the body.

So, I wondering about some long-term sealer-filler that not an
adhesive. I've gotten 8 of 8 apart so far, but don't want to go thru
this again.

Maybe Dolfinite (it shrinks). Ideally something that expands when it
cures, is rubbery, not UV bothered, and zero adhesion to s/s.

Suggestions?

I doubt that the problem is primarily due to the sealant you used when
assembling the fittings as I have disassemble a number of fittings
installed without no sealant and they were extremely difficult to
disassemble. When finally taken apart I found that there had been so
much force applied as to cause the wires to indented the wedge.

To disassemble cut the cable flush with the fitting using a 4 inch
hand grinder; remove the threaded outer sleeve and supporting the
sleeve drive the cable and wedge out using a punch having a diameter
nearly that of the wire and a heavy hammer. Replace the wedge and
reuse.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

Close, but no cigar! What's with the 4" hand grinder when a simple hacksaw
works just fine?

But, you ARE right (this is the second or third time) about the force being
applied to the cone. That's the patented secret of a Sta-Lok mechanical
terminal. It gets its strength from both the cone compressing upon and
gripping the "1" part of the 1X19 while it bends the ends of the "19" over
the nut and compresses them at about a 30 degree angle on the same taper in
the body of the terminal. The sealant is only used to keep salt water out of
the inside of the terminal where it will fester and cause corrosion,
electrolysis and other problems.

I hope this helps.

Wilbur Hubbard