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Dingy
What qualities make for a good crusing dink? |
Dingy
"cavalamb himself" wrote in message ... What qualities make for a good crusing dink? 1) it should be easy to row. 2) you should be able to row out the bower, kedge and a shot of chain even in rough seas. 3) you should be able to get it aboard and stowed lashed amidships under the boom. 4) it should be made out of GRP and have positive flotation. 5) inflatables are a joke if only because you can't row them and sooner or later that reliable motor will die. 6) if you have to ask here then you aren't doing enough reading of good cruising books. Wilbur Hubbard |
Dingy
"cavalamb himself" wrote in message ... What qualities make for a good crusing dink? At first I wondered what a *crusing dink* was and a Dingy???? But then I noticed you even failed to spell cavelamb right so I guess you're either stupid or illiterate. But, I took pity on you and answered your lame query anyway. I'll wager nobody will provide a better or more accurate response. It's obvious the store of cruising knowledge around here is quite limited. Wilbur Hubbard |
Dingy
On Feb 21, 5:41*pm, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote: "cavalamb himself" wrote in message ... What qualities make for a good crusing dink? 1) it should be easy to row. 2) you should be able to row out the bower, kedge and a shot of chain even in rough seas. 3) you should be able to get it aboard and stowed lashed amidships under the boom. 4) it should be made out of GRP and have positive flotation. 5) inflatables are a joke if only because you can't row them and sooner or later that reliable motor will die. 6) if you have to ask here then you aren't doing enough reading of good cruising books. Wilbur Hubbard When you look at what a lot of cruisers are using, RIB's are very popular. We chose not to go that route and went with a porta-bote instead. It rows decent, it has positive floatation, it's lighter than RIB's, it doesn't require a dinghy davit, it's more tolerant to abuse and it's cheaper. The last quality is that it's so ugly no one will want to steal it. It meets most of Wilbur's criterial, although it's not GRP and it stows even better than a hard dinghy. |
Dingy
On Feb 21, 1:19 pm, cavalamb himself wrote:
What qualities make for a good crusing dink? Where and what and how many of you are cruising? I've got a 10' aluminum RIB with an 8hp two stroke, dingy wheels and decent oarlocks. It's a workable compromise for two folks who occasionally need to transport laundry or groceries over a bit and makes an adequate dive boat and holds its own in the rough and tumble of the dingy dock... I've lived with an 8' high pressure floor dingy with a 2.5 hp engine, but was cold wet and slow in open water. -- Tom. |
Dingy
On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 19:13:36 -0800 (PST), "
wrote: Where and what and how many of you are cruising? I've got a 10' aluminum RIB with an 8hp two stroke, dingy wheels and decent oarlocks. It's a workable compromise for two folks who occasionally need to transport laundry or groceries over a bit and makes an adequate dive boat and holds its own in the rough and tumble of the dingy dock... I've lived with an 8' high pressure floor dingy with a 2.5 hp engine, but was cold wet and slow in open water. We've had good experiences with both a 12 ft Avon roll up with aluminum floor and inflatable keel, and also an 11 ft Caribe RIB. We have used a 15 hp Merc in the past but presently have a 20 hp Honda. They will plane off at 15+ kts with 3 people on board but struggle with 4. They both require a hoist and a fair amount of deck space for storage. |
Dingy
On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 20:41:51 -0500, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote: "cavalamb himself" wrote in message ... What qualities make for a good crusing dink? 1) it should be easy to row. Why not use an engine? Even the lifeboats carried on ships no longer have oars. A properly maintained engine fails about as frequently as an oar breaks. 2) you should be able to row out the bower, kedge and a shot of chain even in rough seas. Anyone that has to set a second anchor in rough seas is not paying attention. Given the availability of radio weather reports in this day and age anyone who doesn't know what the weather is doing isn't listening. The time to set a second anchor is before the wind gets up. 3) you should be able to get it aboard and stowed lashed amidships under the boom. Bad! Behind the mast interferes with the vang and main sheet. Forward of the mast! 4) it should be made out of GRP and have positive flotation. Wooden boats are no longer usable I guess. Or perhaps Willie doesn't know about wood boats. 5) inflatables are a joke if only because you can't row them and sooner or later that reliable motor will die. Just flat wrong! Perhaps you can't row a rubber duck into the wind but I can. It is just a matter of technique. As for a motor "dying", just maintain it and it won't. 6) if you have to ask here then you aren't doing enough reading of good cruising books. Right! Don't bother to go sailing; just read a book about it! Wilbur Hubbard Willie-boy, I really feel sorry for you - a guy that spends all his time reading sailing magazines and books rather then going sailing - and thinks it makes him a sailor. Pitiful! Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) |
Dingy
On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 20:57:32 -0500, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote: "cavalamb himself" wrote in message ... What qualities make for a good crusing dink? At first I wondered what a *crusing dink* was and a Dingy???? But then I noticed you even failed to spell cavelamb right so I guess you're either stupid or illiterate. But, I took pity on you and answered your lame query anyway. I'll wager nobody will provide a better or more accurate response. It's obvious the store of cruising knowledge around here is quite limited. Wilbur Hubbard It certainly seems to be on your side of the fence. What makes you think that you are a sailor? Just what sailing have you actually done? You talk a lot but I think that most of it comes out of YACHTING or The Wayward Sailor. Tell us what sailing you have actually done Willie. Inquiring minds want to know. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) |
Dingy
Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
Anyone that has to set a second anchor in rough seas is not paying attention. Given the availability of radio weather reports in this day and age anyone who doesn't know what the weather is doing isn't listening. The time to set a second anchor is before the wind gets up. I guess I am going to have to study up. I have had one or more (probably more) instances of having to take out gear in the dink for security or weather reasons. Maybe I have just been in places where the weather reports, such as they were, weren't too reliable. I have both hard and soft little boats, but in the cases I recall where anchor and chain had to be set from the boat, the hard boat with oars was the one actually used. I probably would have been a little intimidated about having to toss a patent-style anchor into a rubber boat in the dark, or with a sea making up. No such fears about the hard boat, and in fact the rig performed quite well. -- Good luck and good sailing. s/v Kerry Deare of Barnegat http://home.comcast.net/~kerrydeare |
Dingy
cavalamb himself wrote:
What qualities make for a good crusing dink? I'm a bit surprised about the RIBs as I didn't suspect they would be that popular. Something to think about. And the porta boats too. Thanks all. Richard |
Dingy
On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 11:09:16 -0600, cavalamb himself
wrote: I'm a bit surprised about the RIBs as I didn't suspect they would be that popular. Something to think about. One of the nice things about RIBs is the ability to beach them without tearing up the bottom. That's important when you are cruising in the boondocks and want to go ashore. |
Dingy
wrote in message
... On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 03:27:27 GMT, Jere Lull wrote: On 2008-02-21 21:34:10 -0500, said: When you look at what a lot of cruisers are using, RIB's are very popular. We chose not to go that route and went with a porta-bote instead. It rows decent, it has positive floatation, it's lighter than RIB's, it doesn't require a dinghy davit, it's more tolerant to abuse and it's cheaper. The last quality is that it's so ugly no one will want to steal it. It meets most of Wilbur's criterial, although it's not GRP and it stows even better than a hard dinghy. I second this viewpoint, particularly the "ugly" safeguard. It looks and "feels" too flimsy to last, but ours is probably a dozen seasons old now, and still is the rendezvous "taxi" when people need to ferry about. Only the 55-56 foot powerboats have dinks that can ferry 5 adults at once -- and keep them dry. And as a backup to the "rows decently": In many anchorages, most PortBote folks don't hassle with the outboard, but just row around. I'd add my vote as a happy porta-bote owner. I was on the fence before ordering a Pota-bote rather than yet another RIB. I would not be on the fence if I had to make the choice agin. I doubt I'll ever need to make that choice has the Port-Bote gives every indication that it will outlive me. Not if you stay out of the mosh pit... LOL -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Dingy
"Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 11:09:16 -0600, cavalamb himself wrote: I'm a bit surprised about the RIBs as I didn't suspect they would be that popular. Something to think about. One of the nice things about RIBs is the ability to beach them without tearing up the bottom. That's important when you are cruising in the boondocks and want to go ashore. I have a wooden dinghy and I am just about to order a RIB. What is your take on a single hull vs. the double hulled RIB Hypalon is a better material but this new German made PVC looks promising, what do you think. |
Dingy
wrote in
: "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 11:09:16 -0600, cavalamb himself wrote: I'm a bit surprised about the RIBs as I didn't suspect they would be that popular. Something to think about. One of the nice things about RIBs is the ability to beach them without tearing up the bottom. That's important when you are cruising in the boondocks and want to go ashore. I have a wooden dinghy and I am just about to order a RIB. What is your take on a single hull vs. the double hulled RIB Hypalon is a better material but this new German made PVC looks promising, what do you think. I much prefer a double hulled RIB to a single hull. My first dinghy (which was stolen in Honduras) was an Avon with a single hull and since then I've had 2 double hulled ones. The weight of the double hull makes it ride better and the double hull provides a bottom which is much more amenable to humans. All of the dinghies have been Hypalon and have held up very well in the Caribbean sun. I've seen a lot of PVC ones that haven't held up as well. My current dinghy is an AB and I like it a lot. It rides well and is much drier than most. -- Geoff www.GeoffSchultz.org |
Dingy
Hypalon is a better material but this new German made PVC looks promising,
what do you think. Where are you going to be using it? And how are you going to be storing it? If you're not in the caribbean and are going to put a cover over it then you're fine with PVC. If it's going to be sitting out in the blistering sun 365 days a year then you can't go wrong spending the extra money to get one made of hypalon. |
Dingy
"Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 11:09:16 -0600, cavalamb himself wrote: I'm a bit surprised about the RIBs as I didn't suspect they would be that popular. Something to think about. One of the nice things about RIBs is the ability to beach them without tearing up the bottom. That's important when you are cruising in the boondocks and want to go ashore. Who wants a RIB as a tender? If you beach on a rocky shore you are forced to drag it unless there are enough of you to lift its weight. And unless you have a yacht big enough to have dinghy davits you will soon get fed up with getting the thing aboard even if you have enough people to get it over the guard rails, plus the deck space to stow it and still be able to set your sails above it. If you are big enough to have davits an ordinary rigid dinghy is a much better solution and much cheaper with less depreciation.. If you get a hypalon inflatable such as an Avon you do not need to drag it up the beach. You can turn it on its side, hook your shoulder under the tube and just walk up the beach with it. Plus it can be partially deflated when stowed on the deck to allow you to set sail above it yet it will still have enough buoyancy to be useful in emergency But inflatables come with lousy oars and you will not be able to set an anchor out to windward with one if your rode is all chain unless you have an outboard. |
Dingy
On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 15:31:54 -0400, wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message .. . On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 11:09:16 -0600, cavalamb himself wrote: I'm a bit surprised about the RIBs as I didn't suspect they would be that popular. Something to think about. One of the nice things about RIBs is the ability to beach them without tearing up the bottom. That's important when you are cruising in the boondocks and want to go ashore. I have a wooden dinghy and I am just about to order a RIB. What is your take on a single hull vs. the double hulled RIB Hypalon is a better material but this new German made PVC looks promising, what do you think. Hypalon is the gold standard for durability, wouldn't have anything else, and I agree with Geoff on the double hull. To those who say don't get a RIB, be aware of what you are not getting: Seaworthiness, load carrying ability, redundant flotation, drier ride (by comparison) and speed - not necessarily in that order. There is a reason why Navy SEALS use RIBs and not FoldBotes. |
Dingy
On Feb 22, 10:54 am, Geoff Schultz wrote:
... I much prefer a double hulled RIB to a single hull. ... The weight of the double hull makes it ride ... Performance wise weight is a terrible thing in a planning boat. Heaver boats need bigger engines and more fuel and that makes them heavier still and you get a vicious cycle. I've got a very light aluminum RIB with large diameter tubes. It is very much more seaworthy than the my old Zodiac 285 air floor but not much heavier... It will plane with two full sized adults or three small sized ones using an 8hp motor. As everyone keeps pointing out, though, best depends on context. If you've got a mile to travel with your laundry upwind into stiff trades you want a big powerful boat but if you are paddling ten yards to the beach small and light is better... In the best of all possible worlds the support team would arrive ahead of you with a huge anchor, tons of chain and a powerful longboat... better and the double hull provides a bottom which is much more amenable to humans. I put heavy duty dry deck style rubber tiles in the bottom of mine. They keep the bags dry and you can sit on them in the rough stuff... All of the dinghies have been Hypalon and have held up very well in the Caribbean sun. ... PVC is not nearly as good as Hypalon, but my 2000 Zodiac is still functional and has spent virtually all of its life outside in the tropics. After about 5 years in the sun it gets hard to get glue to stick to PVC though. -- Tom. |
Dingy
" wrote in
: On Feb 22, 10:54 am, Geoff Schultz wrote: better and the double hull provides a bottom which is much more amenable to humans. I put heavy duty dry deck style rubber tiles in the bottom of mine. They keep the bags dry and you can sit on them in the rough stuff... I was speaking of the shape of the hull. With a single hull you have to deal with the floor being in the V shape of the hull. With a double hull the flooring is flat, which is much nicer to get in and out of. -- Geoff www.GeoffSchultz.org |
Dingy
On Feb 22, 12:52 pm, Geoff Schultz wrote:
... I was speaking of the shape of the hull. With a single hull you have to deal with the floor being in the V shape of the hull. With a double hull the flooring is flat, which is much nicer to get in and out of. ... Quite. There are a couple of advantages to having a deck. It can be flat, it keeps things dry and it makes the boat stiffer. Weight and restricted access are the only downsides I can think of. However, at least on my single skin boat, the deadrise angle is so shallow aft that it is not at all unpleasant to sit or stand on and the addition of the tiles makes it reasonably dry. Dingies are just boats. They are exercises in compromise and there is no universal best. -- Tom. |
Dingy
Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
Anyone that has to set a second anchor in rough seas is not paying attention. Given the availability of radio weather reports in this day and age anyone who doesn't know what the weather is doing isn't listening. The time to set a second anchor is before the wind gets up. Agreed, but there are more reasons than ignorance of the weather to set an anchor vie dinghy. "Armond Perretta" wrote: I guess I am going to have to study up. I have had one or more (probably more) instances of having to take out gear in the dink for security or weather reasons. Maybe I have just been in places where the weather reports, such as they were, weren't too reliable. I've used a dinghy to set an anchor in a place that the big boat couldn't have gotten to... and it worked out wonderfully, holding the big boat closer in to a place that was secure. I've also used a dinghy to set a security anchor to hold us off a dock. Then there is setting a kedge to pull off from a grounding, although most people probably think it's easier to just call Sea Tow. I have both hard and soft little boats, but in the cases I recall where anchor and chain had to be set from the boat, the hard boat with oars was the one actually used. I probably would have been a little intimidated about having to toss a patent-style anchor into a rubber boat in the dark, or with a sea making up. No such fears about the hard boat, and in fact the rig performed quite well. I have never liked outboard motors, a RIB was out of the question. We have a dinghy that I designed & built, and consider it as close to perfect for our uses as could be: it is very easy to row, stable, and looks like a classic lapstrake pulling boat. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Dingy
On 2008-02-21 23:55:55 -0500, Wayne.B said:
We've had good experiences with both a 12 ft Avon roll up with aluminum floor and inflatable keel, and also an 11 ft Caribe RIB. We have used a 15 hp Merc in the past but presently have a 20 hp Honda. They will plane off at 15+ kts with 3 people on board but struggle with 4. They both require a hoist and a fair amount of deck space for storage. On the other hand, our 12.5' PortaBote delivers 10+ knots with 300+ pounds of people onboard with 4 HP, and planed at about the same speed with 5 adults powered by a 7.5 Honda high-thrust sailboat kicker. I'd be afraid to throw 15 hp into our PortaBote with any number aboard, as the likely speeds would be truly beyond my comfort level. 20 hp? No chance I'd open the throttle to full. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Dingy
On 22 Feb 2008 16:53:02 -0600, Dave wrote:
On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 17:40:24 -0500, Wayne.B said: There is a reason why Navy SEALS use RIBs and not FoldBotes. Ergo, if your needs are the same as those of a Navy SEAL, buy a RIB. Why do I not find that too persuasive? So get something else. |
Dingy
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Dingy
Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
One of my money earning hobbies is building dinghies. I designed and built several 8 ft glass over plywood boats that will carry three adults (well, skinny ones) quite safely in any weather I want to be out in a dinghy. They aren't as light as a rubber duck but they are light enough that I can pick one up by my self. Local made rubber dinghies are running a bit over $1,000 here and I can build glass over plywood boat for about a third of that. Now that would be interesting. Do you have any more info on them you can share? I would't mind building my own. (I suspect postage on something like that would be a bit over the top.) But we would have to work out a way to swing it aboard first. I have never liked outboard motors, a RIB was out of the question. We have a dinghy that I designed & built, and consider it as close to perfect for our uses as could be: it is very easy to row, stable, and looks like a classic lapstrake pulling boat. No one has mentioned it yet, but an outboard means storing gasoline on board. The big boat has a diesel engine and diesel generator. Besides the flammability issue, there is the simple problem of logistics of having a second kind of fuel to stow. A good rowing boat - maybe with a simple sail for the longer pulls? |
Dingy
wrote:
On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 17:40:24 -0500, Wayne.B wrote: On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 15:31:54 -0400, wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 11:09:16 -0600, cavalamb himself wrote: I'm a bit surprised about the RIBs as I didn't suspect they would be that popular. Something to think about. One of the nice things about RIBs is the ability to beach them without tearing up the bottom. That's important when you are cruising in the boondocks and want to go ashore. I have a wooden dinghy and I am just about to order a RIB. What is your take on a single hull vs. the double hulled RIB Hypalon is a better material but this new German made PVC looks promising, what do you think. Hypalon is the gold standard for durability, wouldn't have anything else, and I agree with Geoff on the double hull. To those who say don't get a RIB, be aware of what you are not getting: Seaworthiness, load carrying ability, redundant flotation, drier ride (by comparison) and speed - not necessarily in that order. There is a reason why Navy SEALS use RIBs and not FoldBotes. Umm... Having owned both, I can say that the Porta-Bote is every bit as seaworthy, has more useful room for a given size boat, has a drier ride, can be rowed easily in a straight line, sailed or motored while full of water without capsizing, and planes with a very small lightweight motor. Mine eagerly jumps up on top of the water with a 3.5 HP motor that weighs 29 pounds. I never have to tow it, because I can hand launch and retrieve it without a hoist, and it folds up flat in a few minutes to be lashed to the lifelines. It costs half what a blow up boat costs, and of course the motor costs a fraction of what is required for a RIB to perform as well. I don't need a patch kit, either. Interesting boat (bote?) http://www.porta-bote.com/dinghy.html It for sure takes up less deck space. |
Dingy
On Feb 23, 4:33 am, wrote:
... Umm... Having owned both, I can say that the Porta-Bote is every bit as seaworthy, has more useful room for a given size boat, has a drier ride, can be rowed easily in a straight line, sailed or motored while full of water without capsizing, and planes with a very small lightweight motor. Mine eagerly jumps up on top of the water with a 3.5 HP motor that weighs 29 pounds. I never have to tow it, because I can hand launch and retrieve it without a hoist, and it folds up flat in a few minutes to be lashed to the lifelines. It costs half what a blow up boat costs, and of course the motor costs a fraction of what is required for a RIB to perform as well. I don't need a patch kit, either. You certainly make them sound nice. What are their disadvantages? How do they work as a dive boats? Can you run them ashore in the surf? Can you self-recuse one that's full of water? -- Tom. |
Dingy
cavelamb himself wrote:
Bruce in Bangkok wrote: One of my money earning hobbies is building dinghies. I designed and built several 8 ft glass over plywood boats that will carry three adults (well, skinny ones) quite safely in any weather I want to be out in a dinghy. They aren't as light as a rubber duck but they are light enough that I can pick one up by my self. Local made rubber dinghies are running a bit over $1,000 here and I can build glass over plywood boat for about a third of that. Now that would be interesting. Do you have any more info on them you can share? I would't mind building my own. (I suspect postage on something like that would be a bit over the top.) But we would have to work out a way to swing it aboard first. I have never liked outboard motors, a RIB was out of the question. We have a dinghy that I designed & built, and consider it as close to perfect for our uses as could be: it is very easy to row, stable, and looks like a classic lapstrake pulling boat. No one has mentioned it yet, but an outboard means storing gasoline on board. The big boat has a diesel engine and diesel generator. Besides the flammability issue, there is the simple problem of logistics of having a second kind of fuel to stow. A good rowing boat - maybe with a simple sail for the longer pulls? http://www.microcruising.com/ding1.htm http://www.simplicityboats.com/summerbreezetemp.html http://www.pelinplans.co.nz/canoes_dinghies_plans.htm And the one I like http://www.riparia.org/rachel.html G |
Rowing a porta-bote (was) Dingy
On Feb 23, 2:34 pm, wrote:
Oh, yeah. The included, aluminum collapsible oars are fine for emergencies, but if you are going to mostly row, rather than use a motor, you'll want to get a set of real, full length oars and oarlocks. The oarlock sockets need a minor modification to accept real oarlocks. I bring the collapsible oars only as backup when using the motor. I doubt anything could convince me to go back to an inflatable. I strongly second the general wimpieess of the supplied oars. I modified my Bote to accept standard feathering rowlocks, and kept one of the sets of oars I used to use with my rowing shells. I had to move the collars all the way to the inside to make it fit with (still) more overlap than standard, and the sides are floppy, so it takes a fine hand to make sure the pull is straight (don't push or pull the collar, essentially, on the stroke). I've never really tried, but I believe that if I were to work at it, I could plane it :{)) I sorely miss the sliding seat part of my rowing but that would complicate matters and storage severely. Someone more serious than I could surely make that happen, though, as the Alden shells are little more than canoes with clips into which you mount the sliding seat and rigger package. There are several manufacturers of drop-in sliding-seat rowing gear, but each setup likely would increase the cost of the bote by a good half or more; the oars are another significant portion if you don't already own them (I did - new, they're $400 the pair). From a standing start, on flat ground, I can take it out of a van, assemble it, and be rowing, and in reverse, land, disassemble and stow it in the van in 5 minutes each way including mounting the rowlock assembly. Pix of the modification are in the gallery, if you would like to see it, at:http://www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery/index.php? mode=album&album=Morgan+461+Hull+Number+2+Refit+%2 B+Projects %2FFinishing_Touches-Readying_To_Splash%2FPorta- Bote_Maiden_Voyage_and_Sculling_Modifications, or http://tinyurl.com/2we3rp There are pix of the sculling oars and of the standard oars in use as well as my modifications... L8R Skip Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog "You are never given a wish without also being given the power to make it come true. You may have to work for it however." (and) "There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in its hands. You seek problems because you need their gifts." (Richard Bach, in The Reluctant Messiah) |
Rowing a porta-bote (was) Dingy
Skip Gundlach wrote:
From a standing start, on flat ground, I can take it out of a van, assemble it, and be rowing, and in reverse, land, disassemble and stow it in the van in 5 minutes each way including mounting the rowlock assembly. Pix of the modification are in the gallery, if you would like to see it, at:http://www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery/index.php? mode=album&album=Morgan+461+Hull+Number+2+Refit+%2 B+Projects %2FFinishing_Touches-Readying_To_Splash%2FPorta- Bote_Maiden_Voyage_and_Sculling_Modifications, or http://tinyurl.com/2we3rp There are pix of the sculling oars and of the standard oars in use as well as my modifications... L8R Skip Interesting Mods, Skip. Any others, or is that the sum of it? |
Dingy
wrote:
I doubt anything could convince me to go back to an inflatable. Here's another vote for the Porta-Bote. I can't see us ever going back to an inflatable either. I've expounded at length here on their strong and weak points so I'll refrain from doing so again, but feel free to contact me offline if you have any questions. I'm not sure about how easy it would be to recover it if swamped (never had to), but I'm old (mid 50's) and fat and have no trouble getting back aboard from in the water. My wife & I used it as a dive platform all the time during our 2 year cruise of Mexico, Central America & the S. Pacific. On the beach at Bahia Santa Elena, Costa Rica. http://home.comcast.net/~triciajean1...8-05-10-03.jpg Stored on deck as we cross the Gulf of Tehuanapec http://home.comcast.net/~triciajean1...1-05-04-07.JPG -- Dan Best B-2/75 1977-1979 Tayana 37 #192, "Tricia Jean" http://triciajean192.home.comcast.net |
Dingy
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Dingy
On 2008-02-23 23:00:37 -0500, cavelamb himself said:
8' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1895) Factory Direct Price: $1,349 10' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1945) Factory Direct Price: $1,499 12' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1995) Factory Direct Price: $1,599 14' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $2395) Factory Direct Price: $1,859 Oh gawd, those prices are so cheap compared to blow-up dinks that have (charitably) half the capacity and speed. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Dingy
On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 12:21:45 -0600, cavelamb himself
wrote: Bruce in Bangkok wrote: One of my money earning hobbies is building dinghies. I designed and built several 8 ft glass over plywood boats that will carry three adults (well, skinny ones) quite safely in any weather I want to be out in a dinghy. They aren't as light as a rubber duck but they are light enough that I can pick one up by my self. Local made rubber dinghies are running a bit over $1,000 here and I can build glass over plywood boat for about a third of that. Now that would be interesting. Do you have any more info on them you can share? I would't mind building my own. (I suspect postage on something like that would be a bit over the top.) But we would have to work out a way to swing it aboard first. It is a scow and pretty wide, have a look at: http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=D5 which is what I used as a model when I designed mine. The boat is built of 1/8" ply and glassed inside and out with the lightest cloth I can get. The bow and stern seats are flotation chambers. The center thwart is not boxed in like the D5 to save weight, and I made the seat tops from 1/8" ply with a "honeycomb" made from 3/4" wide strips of ply on the bottom side. This makes the seats stiff enough to sit or stand on and they are still lighter then thicker ply. I have a "Y" shaped sling that attaches to the corners of the transom and the bow and handle the dinghy with the spinnaker pole lift and use a boat hook to push it out so it doesn't rub on the topsides. I'm in Bangkok at the moment and the working drawings are in Phuket but I can probably scare up the offsets somewhere and email them if your address is any good. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) |
Dingy
"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message ... On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 12:21:45 -0600, cavelamb himself wrote: Bruce in Bangkok wrote: One of my money earning hobbies is building dinghies. I designed and built several 8 ft glass over plywood boats that will carry three adults (well, skinny ones) quite safely in any weather I want to be out in a dinghy. They aren't as light as a rubber duck but they are light enough that I can pick one up by my self. Local made rubber dinghies are running a bit over $1,000 here and I can build glass over plywood boat for about a third of that. Now that would be interesting. Do you have any more info on them you can share? I would't mind building my own. (I suspect postage on something like that would be a bit over the top.) But we would have to work out a way to swing it aboard first. It is a scow and pretty wide, have a look at: http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=D5 which is what I used as a model when I designed mine. The boat is built of 1/8" ply and glassed inside and out with the lightest cloth I can get. The bow and stern seats are flotation chambers. The center thwart is not boxed in like the D5 to save weight, and I made the seat tops from 1/8" ply with a "honeycomb" made from 3/4" wide strips of ply on the bottom side. This makes the seats stiff enough to sit or stand on and they are still lighter then thicker ply. I have a "Y" shaped sling that attaches to the corners of the transom and the bow and handle the dinghy with the spinnaker pole lift and use a boat hook to push it out so it doesn't rub on the topsides. I'm in Bangkok at the moment and the working drawings are in Phuket but I can probably scare up the offsets somewhere and email them if your address is any good. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) In 1984 I build a D5 (Sabot) without epoxy. Since then I have used it every season. During the winter, it is stored in my garage. I have spent, on average, about 5 hours of work every year to maintain it. This D5 rows exceptionally well with one person. With two persons on board it rows fine in calm water. When the going get rough the person on the stern seat gets her/his bum wet. It tows very well. In very rough seas when going down the waves crest this D5 goes faster then my sailboat and gets ahead of it. I have tried several towing technique, long and short towline. In heavy weather (lacking the space to stow it on board) the long towline gives me time to avoid the dinghy from hitting the stern of my sailboat. The first year I had the dinghy the towing hook came off the dinghy because I had only used lag screws without backing plate. Since then I installed the towing hook with SS bolts with strong back up plate. I have now cut all the parts to build a new D5. This time I will be using stitch and clue with quality epoxy. I will also try to rearrange the position of middle seat to properly balance the dinghy for two people. I welcome comments on relocating the seat to better accommodate the weight distribution for two people. |
Rowing a porta-bote (was) Dingy
On Feb 23, 6:17 pm, cavelamb himself wrote:
Skip Gundlach wrote: From a standing start, on flat ground, I can take it out of a van, assemble it, and be rowing, and in reverse, land, disassemble and stow it in the van in 5 minutes each way including mounting the rowlock assembly. Pix of the modification are in the gallery, if you would like to see it, at:http://www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery/index.php? mode=album&album=Morgan+461+Hull+Number+2+Refit+%2 B+Projects %2FFinishing_Touches-Readying_To_Splash%2FPorta- Bote_Maiden_Voyage_and_Sculling_Modifications, or http://tinyurl.com/2we3rp There are pix of the sculling oars and of the standard oars in use as well as my modifications... L8R Skip Interesting Mods, Skip. Any others, or is that the sum of it? Those are the only mods I've done - but there are several mailing lists and probably also several forums devoted to Porta-Bote owners and their "stuff". If you peruse those lists, you'll see links to web pages with incredible numbers of modifications. The huge majority of PB ownership and use is fresh water, strap-it-on- a-vehicle and use it when you're wherever you're going, so most of what is written about doesn't apply to our type of usage. However, there are mods which might be interesting to you, and the owner of the company, Sandy Kaye, aka or something like that, participates in at least one of them. He's a very engaged owner and if the requests are reasonable, he's usually very willing to accommodate you. The 10-year warrantee, only to the original purchaser, unfortunately, says a lot about the level of confidence. The very few available for purchase in the aftermarket also says a lot about both how folks feel about them, and their longevity (don't have to, nor want to, "upgrade"). Most, like Dan, have made accommodations to the various weak points of the design... HTH... L8R Skip Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog "You are never given a wish without also being given the power to make it come true. You may have to work for it however." (and) "There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in its hands. You seek problems because you need their gifts." (Richard Bach, in The Reluctant Messiah) |
Dingy
On Feb 24, 8:29 am, wrote:
I have now cut all the parts to build a new D5. This time I will be using stitch and clue with quality epoxy. I will also try to rearrange the position of middle seat to properly balance the dinghy for two people. I welcome comments on relocating the seat to better accommodate the weight distribution for two people. I apologize for my lack of familiarity with the design, but if I were doing it, I'd make movable seats, with more than one rowlock point, to allow balance with any load character. When I used to deliver and teach rowing with Little River, their Heritage series could be configured to single or double. Likewise, therefore, if you had passengers, you could put them either fore or aft and use the apposite rowing position to balance... L8R Skip Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog "You are never given a wish without also being given the power to make it come true. You may have to work for it however." (and) "There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in its hands. You seek problems because you need their gifts." (Richard Bach, in The Reluctant Messiah) |
Dingy
"cavelamb himself" wrote in message ... wrote: Umm... Having owned both, I can say that the Porta-Bote is every bit as seaworthy, has more useful room for a given size boat, has a drier ride, can be rowed easily in a straight line, sailed or motored while full of water without capsizing, and planes with a very small lightweight motor. Mine eagerly jumps up on top of the water with a 3.5 HP motor that weighs 29 pounds. I never have to tow it, because I can hand launch and retrieve it without a hoist, and it folds up flat in a few minutes to be lashed to the lifelines. It costs half what a blow up boat costs, and of course the motor costs a fraction of what is required for a RIB to perform as well. I don't need a patch kit, either. 8' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1895) Factory Direct Price: $1,349 10' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1945) Factory Direct Price: $1,499 12' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1995) Factory Direct Price: $1,599 14' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $2395) Factory Direct Price: $1,859 Does that look about right? Doesn't look like we have a direct dealer in the Maritimes anymore...I haven't seen one at the Halifax boat show in a few years. Looks like this Ontario company looks after Eastern Canada. Note his prices. http://www.ontarioportableboats.com/...te_prices.html |
Dingy
"Don White" wrote in message ... "cavelamb himself" wrote in message ... wrote: Umm... Having owned both, I can say that the Porta-Bote is every bit as seaworthy, has more useful room for a given size boat, has a drier ride, can be rowed easily in a straight line, sailed or motored while full of water without capsizing, and planes with a very small lightweight motor. Mine eagerly jumps up on top of the water with a 3.5 HP motor that weighs 29 pounds. I never have to tow it, because I can hand launch and retrieve it without a hoist, and it folds up flat in a few minutes to be lashed to the lifelines. It costs half what a blow up boat costs, and of course the motor costs a fraction of what is required for a RIB to perform as well. I don't need a patch kit, either. 8' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1895) Factory Direct Price: $1,349 10' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1945) Factory Direct Price: $1,499 12' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1995) Factory Direct Price: $1,599 14' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $2395) Factory Direct Price: $1,859 Does that look about right? Doesn't look like we have a direct dealer in the Maritimes anymore...I haven't seen one at the Halifax boat show in a few years. Looks like this Ontario company looks after Eastern Canada. Note his prices. http://www.ontarioportableboats.com/...te_prices.html I have recently talked to Porta-Bote International, 800-227-8882. They are not too amenable to sell directly to Canadian and have referred me to the Ontario dealer. I then contacted this Canadian dealer at 1-877-388-3679. I asked about their price list and they indicated that their profit margin was low and did offer any price reduction. The other option would be to have the Porta-Bote shipped at frontier and cross over with it at the Canadian Custom. If I pay for the service of a broker, I could have it shipped directly to my house. After a quick calculation, I concluded that, for me, the extra money and effort were not worth it. |
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