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Dingy
wrote in message ... "Don White" wrote in message ... "cavelamb himself" wrote in message ... wrote: Umm... Having owned both, I can say that the Porta-Bote is every bit as seaworthy, has more useful room for a given size boat, has a drier ride, can be rowed easily in a straight line, sailed or motored while full of water without capsizing, and planes with a very small lightweight motor. Mine eagerly jumps up on top of the water with a 3.5 HP motor that weighs 29 pounds. I never have to tow it, because I can hand launch and retrieve it without a hoist, and it folds up flat in a few minutes to be lashed to the lifelines. It costs half what a blow up boat costs, and of course the motor costs a fraction of what is required for a RIB to perform as well. I don't need a patch kit, either. 8' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1895) Factory Direct Price: $1,349 10' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1945) Factory Direct Price: $1,499 12' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1995) Factory Direct Price: $1,599 14' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $2395) Factory Direct Price: $1,859 Does that look about right? Doesn't look like we have a direct dealer in the Maritimes anymore...I haven't seen one at the Halifax boat show in a few years. Looks like this Ontario company looks after Eastern Canada. Note his prices. http://www.ontarioportableboats.com/...te_prices.html I have recently talked to Porta-Bote International, 800-227-8882. They are not too amenable to sell directly to Canadian and have referred me to the Ontario dealer. I then contacted this Canadian dealer at 1-877-388-3679. I asked about their price list and they indicated that their profit margin was low and did offer any price reduction. The other option would be to have the Porta-Bote shipped at frontier and cross over with it at the Canadian Custom. If I pay for the service of a broker, I could have it shipped directly to my house. After a quick calculation, I concluded that, for me, the extra money and effort were not worth it. For all that expense you could get a nice 10' Walker Bay and a light duty galvanized boat trailer. |
Dingy
On Feb 24, 3:29 am, wrote:
... I will also try to rearrange the position of middle seat to properly balance the dinghy for two people. I welcome comments on relocating the seat to better accommodate the weight distribution for two people. I saw a little pram once with the thwart running fore and aft the length of the boat. The idea being that you sit on it like a motorcycle or pwc. I'm not sure I'm sold on the idea, but it does give one lots of seating options... -- Tom. |
Dingy
Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
It is a scow and pretty wide, have a look at: http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=D5 which is what I used as a model when I designed mine. The boat is built of 1/8" ply and glassed inside and out with the lightest cloth I can get. The bow and stern seats are flotation chambers. The center thwart is not boxed in like the D5 to save weight, and I made the seat tops from 1/8" ply with a "honeycomb" made from 3/4" wide strips of ply on the bottom side. This makes the seats stiff enough to sit or stand on and they are still lighter then thicker ply. I have a "Y" shaped sling that attaches to the corners of the transom and the bow and handle the dinghy with the spinnaker pole lift and use a boat hook to push it out so it doesn't rub on the topsides. I'm in Bangkok at the moment and the working drawings are in Phuket but I can probably scare up the offsets somewhere and email them if your address is any good. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) I saw that on on the net and was immediately intrigued. A very practical looking dink. 1/8" ply? Golly Bruce, that is pretty light construction. I'm going to guess at about 55 pounds? (Even 1.5 ounce deck cloth adds noticible weight) If you have a chance I'd like to see the offsets. This one could prove to be a good project. Remove the X from earthlink for the correct address. Richard |
Dingy
Don White wrote:
wrote in message ... "Don White" wrote in message . .. "cavelamb himself" wrote in message ... wrote: Umm... Having owned both, I can say that the Porta-Bote is every bit as seaworthy, has more useful room for a given size boat, has a drier ride, can be rowed easily in a straight line, sailed or motored while full of water without capsizing, and planes with a very small lightweight motor. Mine eagerly jumps up on top of the water with a 3.5 HP motor that weighs 29 pounds. I never have to tow it, because I can hand launch and retrieve it without a hoist, and it folds up flat in a few minutes to be lashed to the lifelines. It costs half what a blow up boat costs, and of course the motor costs a fraction of what is required for a RIB to perform as well. I don't need a patch kit, either. 8' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1895) Factory Direct Price: $1,349 10' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1945) Factory Direct Price: $1,499 12' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $1995) Factory Direct Price: $1,599 14' Porta-Bote, (List Price: $2395) Factory Direct Price: $1,859 Does that look about right? Doesn't look like we have a direct dealer in the Maritimes anymore...I haven't seen one at the Halifax boat show in a few years. Looks like this Ontario company looks after Eastern Canada. Note his prices. http://www.ontarioportableboats.com/...te_prices.html I have recently talked to Porta-Bote International, 800-227-8882. They are not too amenable to sell directly to Canadian and have referred me to the Ontario dealer. I then contacted this Canadian dealer at 1-877-388-3679. I asked about their price list and they indicated that their profit margin was low and did offer any price reduction. The other option would be to have the Porta-Bote shipped at frontier and cross over with it at the Canadian Custom. If I pay for the service of a broker, I could have it shipped directly to my house. After a quick calculation, I concluded that, for me, the extra money and effort were not worth it. For all that expense you could get a nice 10' Walker Bay and a light duty galvanized boat trailer. The Walker Bay (and several other ABS boats) can be seen here... http://www.directboats.com/boats.html |
Dingy
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Dingy
"cavelamb himself" wrote in message ... Bruce in Bangkok wrote: It is a scow and pretty wide, have a look at: http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=D5 which is what I used as a model when I designed mine. The boat is built of 1/8" ply and glassed inside and out with the lightest cloth I can get. The bow and stern seats are flotation chambers. The center thwart is not boxed in like the D5 to save weight, and I made the seat tops from 1/8" ply with a "honeycomb" made from 3/4" wide strips of ply on the bottom side. This makes the seats stiff enough to sit or stand on and they are still lighter then thicker ply. I have a "Y" shaped sling that attaches to the corners of the transom and the bow and handle the dinghy with the spinnaker pole lift and use a boat hook to push it out so it doesn't rub on the topsides. I'm in Bangkok at the moment and the working drawings are in Phuket but I can probably scare up the offsets somewhere and email them if your address is any good. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) I saw that on on the net and was immediately intrigued. A very practical looking dink. 1/8" ply? Golly Bruce, that is pretty light construction. I'm going to guess at about 55 pounds? (Even 1.5 ounce deck cloth adds noticible weight) If you have a chance I'd like to see the offsets. This one could prove to be a good project. Remove the X from earthlink for the correct address. Richard 1/8" ply? That is light construction. Yes it is. What I have used is 0.185" thick Meranti plywood. Once the layouts have been done and the parts all cut out and labelled. A coat of two parts epoxy is applied on each part individually and allows to dry. Then the parts are assembled (dry) according to the drawing using the stitching method. Afterward, the assembly is validated and corrected, as needed it. After that, the epoxy fillets are applied with fibreglass tape and let to dry. Subsequently, a second coat to of two parts epoxy is applied inside out. Before painting (for UV protection), a third and fourth coasts of epoxy is applied. As you can see, the construction is light and strong. The hardwood gunwales and keel also add to the stiffness of the boat |
Dingy
"Marty" wrote in message ... wrote: Bruce in Bangkok wrote: I've also used a dinghy to set a security anchor to hold us off a dock. I can attest to that, after all it was my dock! We have a dinghy that I designed & built, and consider it as close to perfect for our uses as could be: it is very easy to row, stable, and looks like a classic lapstrake pulling boat. It is a great dink, and don't forget Hank looks great in it! Unfortunatly the Crapton wouldn't like it, it's not made of GRP, I guess he hasn't heard of carbon fiber yet. Cheers Marty I think GRP includes carbon fiber unless you don't add any resin to the carbon fiber cloth, that is. Doh! Greg |
Dingy
"Gregory Hall" wrote in message ... "Marty" wrote in message ... wrote: Bruce in Bangkok wrote: I've also used a dinghy to set a security anchor to hold us off a dock. I can attest to that, after all it was my dock! We have a dinghy that I designed & built, and consider it as close to perfect for our uses as could be: it is very easy to row, stable, and looks like a classic lapstrake pulling boat. It is a great dink, and don't forget Hank looks great in it! Unfortunatly the Crapton wouldn't like it, it's not made of GRP, I guess he hasn't heard of carbon fiber yet. Cheers Marty I think GRP includes carbon fiber unless you don't add any resin to the carbon fiber cloth, that is. Doh! Greg Could not have stated it better myself. Good job! Wilbur Hubbard Swan 68 |
Dingy
On Feb 24, 12:09 pm, "Gregory Hall" wrote:
... I think GRP includes carbon fiber unless you don't add any resin to the carbon fiber cloth, that is. Doh! ... "Doh"? GRP = Glass Reinforced Plastic. FRP = Fiber Reinforced Plastic. Carbon is fiber but carbon is not glass... -- Tom. |
Dingy
On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 11:18:15 -0800 (PST), "
wrote: On Feb 24, 3:29 am, wrote: ... I will also try to rearrange the position of middle seat to properly balance the dinghy for two people. I welcome comments on relocating the seat to better accommodate the weight distribution for two people. I saw a little pram once with the thwart running fore and aft the length of the boat. The idea being that you sit on it like a motorcycle or pwc. I'm not sure I'm sold on the idea, but it does give one lots of seating options... -- Tom. A friend has a dinghy built from an Australian design that has a boxed in center "thwart" running the length of the boat. It actually works very well for a small boat as it is much easier to keep the boat in trim with various loads. I have also seen big RIBS with a similar configuration. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) |
Dingy
On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 16:56:59 -0400, wrote:
"cavelamb himself" wrote in message ... Bruce in Bangkok wrote: It is a scow and pretty wide, have a look at: http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=D5 which is what I used as a model when I designed mine. The boat is built of 1/8" ply and glassed inside and out with the lightest cloth I can get. The bow and stern seats are flotation chambers. The center thwart is not boxed in like the D5 to save weight, and I made the seat tops from 1/8" ply with a "honeycomb" made from 3/4" wide strips of ply on the bottom side. This makes the seats stiff enough to sit or stand on and they are still lighter then thicker ply. I have a "Y" shaped sling that attaches to the corners of the transom and the bow and handle the dinghy with the spinnaker pole lift and use a boat hook to push it out so it doesn't rub on the topsides. I'm in Bangkok at the moment and the working drawings are in Phuket but I can probably scare up the offsets somewhere and email them if your address is any good. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) I saw that on on the net and was immediately intrigued. A very practical looking dink. 1/8" ply? Golly Bruce, that is pretty light construction. I'm going to guess at about 55 pounds? (Even 1.5 ounce deck cloth adds noticible weight) If you have a chance I'd like to see the offsets. This one could prove to be a good project. Remove the X from earthlink for the correct address. Richard 1/8" ply? That is light construction. Yes it is. What I have used is 0.185" thick Meranti plywood. Once the layouts have been done and the parts all cut out and labelled. A coat of two parts epoxy is applied on each part individually and allows to dry. Then the parts are assembled (dry) according to the drawing using the stitching method. Afterward, the assembly is validated and corrected, as needed it. After that, the epoxy fillets are applied with fibreglass tape and let to dry. Subsequently, a second coat to of two parts epoxy is applied inside out. Before painting (for UV protection), a third and fourth coasts of epoxy is applied. As you can see, the construction is light and strong. The hardwood gunwales and keel also add to the stiffness of the boat Not really. It is 1/6" ply glassed both inside and outside. If you are using four coats of epoxy, inside and outside, the weight is likely much the same - depending or course how thick you apply the epoxy. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) |
Dingy
Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 11:18:15 -0800 (PST), " wrote: On Feb 24, 3:29 am, wrote: ... I will also try to rearrange the position of middle seat to properly balance the dinghy for two people. I welcome comments on relocating the seat to better accommodate the weight distribution for two people. I saw a little pram once with the thwart running fore and aft the length of the boat. The idea being that you sit on it like a motorcycle or pwc. I'm not sure I'm sold on the idea, but it does give one lots of seating options... -- Tom. A friend has a dinghy built from an Australian design that has a boxed in center "thwart" running the length of the boat. It actually works very well for a small boat as it is much easier to keep the boat in trim with various loads. I have also seen big RIBS with a similar configuration. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) In a boat this small, the transverse seat in the center is a major structural item. How to make the sides stiff enough to run the seat longitudinally? |
Dingy
Wilbur Hubbard wrote:
"Gregory Hall" ssic lapstrake pulling boat. It is a great dink, and don't forget Hank looks great in it! Unfortunatly the Crapton wouldn't like it, it's not made of GRP, I guess he hasn't heard of carbon fiber yet. Cheers Marty I think GRP includes carbon fiber unless you don't add any resin to the carbon fiber cloth, that is. Doh! Greg Could not have stated it better myself. Good job! So you two jokers think that glass and carbon fiber are the same thing. Yet more proof, as if we needed any that no-one should ever take any advice, marine or otherwise,from you. Cheers Marty |
Dingy
On 2008-02-24 13:30:26 -0500, "Don White" said:
For all that expense you could get a nice 10' Walker Bay The Walker Bay in no way compares to a Portabote. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Dingy
On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 07:50:00 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote: On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 16:56:59 -0400, wrote: "cavelamb himself" wrote in message ... Bruce in Bangkok wrote: It is a scow and pretty wide, have a look at: http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=D5 which is what I used as a model when I designed mine. The boat is built of 1/8" ply and glassed inside and out with the lightest cloth I can get. The bow and stern seats are flotation chambers. The center thwart is not boxed in like the D5 to save weight, and I made the seat tops from 1/8" ply with a "honeycomb" made from 3/4" wide strips of ply on the bottom side. This makes the seats stiff enough to sit or stand on and they are still lighter then thicker ply. I have a "Y" shaped sling that attaches to the corners of the transom and the bow and handle the dinghy with the spinnaker pole lift and use a boat hook to push it out so it doesn't rub on the topsides. I'm in Bangkok at the moment and the working drawings are in Phuket but I can probably scare up the offsets somewhere and email them if your address is any good. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) I saw that on on the net and was immediately intrigued. A very practical looking dink. 1/8" ply? Golly Bruce, that is pretty light construction. I'm going to guess at about 55 pounds? (Even 1.5 ounce deck cloth adds noticible weight) If you have a chance I'd like to see the offsets. This one could prove to be a good project. Remove the X from earthlink for the correct address. Richard 1/8" ply? That is light construction. Yes it is. What I have used is 0.185" thick Meranti plywood. Once the layouts have been done and the parts all cut out and labelled. A coat of two parts epoxy is applied on each part individually and allows to dry. Then the parts are assembled (dry) according to the drawing using the stitching method. Afterward, the assembly is validated and corrected, as needed it. After that, the epoxy fillets are applied with fibreglass tape and let to dry. Subsequently, a second coat to of two parts epoxy is applied inside out. Before painting (for UV protection), a third and fourth coasts of epoxy is applied. As you can see, the construction is light and strong. The hardwood gunwales and keel also add to the stiffness of the boat Not really. It is 1/6" ply glassed both inside and outside. If you are using four coats of epoxy, inside and outside, the weight is likely much the same - depending or course how thick you apply the epoxy. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) must have hit the wrong key - should read i"It is 1/8"....." Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) |
Dingy
On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 18:53:46 -0600, cavelamb himself
wrote: Bruce in Bangkok wrote: On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 11:18:15 -0800 (PST), " wrote: On Feb 24, 3:29 am, wrote: ... I will also try to rearrange the position of middle seat to properly balance the dinghy for two people. I welcome comments on relocating the seat to better accommodate the weight distribution for two people. I saw a little pram once with the thwart running fore and aft the length of the boat. The idea being that you sit on it like a motorcycle or pwc. I'm not sure I'm sold on the idea, but it does give one lots of seating options... -- Tom. A friend has a dinghy built from an Australian design that has a boxed in center "thwart" running the length of the boat. It actually works very well for a small boat as it is much easier to keep the boat in trim with various loads. I have also seen big RIBS with a similar configuration. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) In a boat this small, the transverse seat in the center is a major structural item. How to make the sides stiff enough to run the seat longitudinally? A single rib amidships. It works. The bloke I mentioned had the same dinghy for nearly 10 years and he lives at anchor so the dinghy is used daily. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) |
Dingy
"Jere Lull" wrote in message news:2008022500313050073-jerelull@maccom... On 2008-02-24 13:30:26 -0500, "Don White" said: For all that expense you could get a nice 10' Walker Bay The Walker Bay in no way compares to a Portabote. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ Jere, you may have already done it. Could you list the differences between the Walker Bay and the Portabote which makes one better than the other. I have a feeling that the Walker Bay may be an altered copy of the dinghy produced by Wedco. If this is the case, the Wedco dinghy was indestructible but did not row or tow well and not suitable to accommodate an outboard engine. At our club we have a few Walker Bay dinghies. I have yet see people rowing or towing them. |
Dingy
On 2008-02-25 06:50:21 -0500, said:
Jere, you may have already done it. Could you list the differences between the Walker Bay and the Portabote which makes one better than the other. I have a feeling that the Walker Bay may be an altered copy of the dinghy produced by Wedco. If this is the case, the Wedco dinghy was indestructible but did not row or tow well and not suitable to accommodate an outboard engine. Bingo! (Though I believe the WB has a fitting for a small outboard.) Don't believe it planes particularly well, if at all. All things considered, I consider it roughly equivalent to a Sea Witch: Good for beginners, but primary built for displacement speeds (which will be low at that LWL). At our club we have a few Walker Bay dinghies. I have yet see people rowing or towing them. Not sure whether you're saying you have or not have seen them rowed or towed. I see them used mostly to get out to the mooring field, myself. The Portabotes I see are as often rowed as powered for short distances (up to a mile, I'd guess). They're rarely towed as it only takes a few minutes to stow them onboard and out of the way. (I walk all over ours without fears) They tow okay on a short tether, but will surf past the towing boat if allowed their head. Size for size, the WB may feel a bit more stable (I haven't done an A-B compare), but the PB's supplied oars are longer and more substantial. At a comfortable pace, I row ours at higher speeds than all but real rowing dinks with proper oars, with about a boat-length between strokes. A PB going on plane (with as little as a 2.5 Honda pushing my 200#) is a bit odd, as the hull flexes to follow the low-pressure part of the wave: The bottom drops out from under your feet. That *does* take some getting used to. And watch sharp turns at high speeds as it tracks like it's on rails; no side-slip, so it seems possible to toss unprepared crew (or the helms-person) overboard. I've heard that the hull gets squirrely above some speed, but at about 15 knots, the ride is surprisingly comfortable and dry. It's flexing quite a bit on plane, but that's how it works with the water and absorbs the waves for the high efficiency and low bounce. After about a dozen seasons, we've picked up a small leak in the center seam. Hasn't developed enough that I've considered doing anything about it, but will probably contact the factory one of these years to ask how to fix it. Oh, the black piping will mark fiberglass. Factory says to bronze wool it, then put a couple of coats of Armour All or similar on it. And the material will oxidize from so many seasons' sun. Making a cover for it is on my to-do list, but it will buff with the usual stuff. For a less-biased review, see: http://www.porta-bote.com/practical.html -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Dingy
wrote in message ... On Feb 24, 12:09 pm, "Gregory Hall" wrote: ... I think GRP includes carbon fiber unless you don't add any resin to the carbon fiber cloth, that is. Doh! ... "Doh"? GRP = Glass Reinforced Plastic. FRP = Fiber Reinforced Plastic. Carbon is fiber but carbon is not glass... -- Tom. Did you ever hear of FRP? It just so happens that FRP and GRP are used pretty much interchangeably. Fiber reinforced plastic definitely includes carbon fiber just as it includes glass fiber. Greg |
Dingy
Gregory Hall wrote:
wrote in message ... On Feb 24, 12:09 pm, "Gregory Hall" wrote: ... I think GRP includes carbon fiber unless you don't add any resin to the carbon fiber cloth, that is. Doh! ... "Doh"? GRP = Glass Reinforced Plastic. FRP = Fiber Reinforced Plastic. Carbon is fiber but carbon is not glass... -- Tom. Did you ever hear of FRP? It just so happens that FRP and GRP are used pretty much interchangeably. Fiber reinforced plastic definitely includes carbon fiber just as it includes glass fiber. Very good Greg, you are learning. Now go back and read Neal's original post, he specifically stated "GRP", as you seem to have learned, the "G" stands for GLASS, not carbon. Cheers Marty |
Dingy
"Martin Baxter" wrote in message ... Gregory Hall wrote: wrote in message ... On Feb 24, 12:09 pm, "Gregory Hall" wrote: ... I think GRP includes carbon fiber unless you don't add any resin to the carbon fiber cloth, that is. Doh! ... "Doh"? GRP = Glass Reinforced Plastic. FRP = Fiber Reinforced Plastic. Carbon is fiber but carbon is not glass... -- Tom. Did you ever hear of FRP? It just so happens that FRP and GRP are used pretty much interchangeably. Fiber reinforced plastic definitely includes carbon fiber just as it includes glass fiber. Very good Greg, you are learning. Now go back and read Neal's original post, he specifically stated "GRP", as you seem to have learned, the "G" stands for GLASS, not carbon. Cheers Marty Picky, picky, picky! But, technically you win. Greg |
Dingy
Gregory Hall wrote:
Picky, picky, picky! But, technically you win. Yeah I know, but thanks. You're a bigger man than Wilbur\Kneal\Crapton...... Cheers Marty |
Dingy
wrote:.
Yes it is. What I have used is 0.185" thick Meranti plywood. Once the layouts have been done and the parts all cut out and labelled. A coat of two parts epoxy is applied on each part individually and allows to dry. Then the parts are assembled (dry) according to the drawing using the stitching method. Afterward, the assembly is validated and corrected, as needed it. After that, the epoxy fillets are applied with fibreglass tape and let to dry. Subsequently, a second coat to of two parts epoxy is applied inside out. Before painting (for UV protection), a third and fourth coasts of epoxy is applied. As you can see, the construction is light and strong. The hardwood gunwales and keel also add to the stiffness of the boat No cloth layed over the panels, just at the seams? Seems like a waste of resin, if you were going to put on two coats you might as well have put on some cloth which would improve strength & abrasion resistance. Foam core would have been lighter & stronger; I've seen a number of tenders & dinghies built using 4mm and 5mm plywood and that's what convinced me to use foam core.... those boats you have to step very carefully in & out of. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Dingy
wrote in message ... wrote:. Yes it is. What I have used is 0.185" thick Meranti plywood. Once the layouts have been done and the parts all cut out and labelled. A coat of two parts epoxy is applied on each part individually and allows to dry. Then the parts are assembled (dry) according to the drawing using the stitching method. Afterward, the assembly is validated and corrected, as needed it. After that, the epoxy fillets are applied with fibreglass tape and let to dry. Subsequently, a second coat to of two parts epoxy is applied inside out. Before painting (for UV protection), a third and fourth coasts of epoxy is applied. As you can see, the construction is light and strong. The hardwood gunwales and keel also add to the stiffness of the boat No cloth layed over the panels, just at the seams? Seems like a waste of resin, if you were going to put on two coats you might as well have put on some cloth which would improve strength & abrasion resistance. Foam core would have been lighter & stronger; I've seen a number of tenders & dinghies built using 4mm and 5mm plywood and that's what convinced me to use foam core.... those boats you have to step very carefully in & out of. Fresh Breezes- Doug King Good comments, My email was intended to be a brief description on how its done not a step by step procedures. Twelve years ago my daughter build a 11'2" Shellback sailing Dinghy applying four coats (as I have described) of epoxy (No cloth layed over the panels, just at the seams) plus coats of UV paint. Since then this sailing dinghy has been stored outside 12 months a year along the rocky edge of the La Have river NS behind her property. During the Canadian winter its covered with show and ice. This sailing dinghy is used about 4 - 5 time every week during the summer. Kids are often dragging the dinghy on the rocky beach, So far the only maintenance done was painting it with a good quality latex outside house paint every 2 to 3 years. A quick survey was done amongst her friends that have build the same dinghy at the same time using only on coat of epoxy and storing it outside all year. The finding revealed that none of these dinghies were in use anymore. Water, snow, ice, rain and quick freezing temperature and melt down have caused water infiltration and below freezing temperature causing delaminating of the material used. So far my daughter's Shellback is holding up good. Every time I visit her I keep telling her to cover the boat during the winter. |
Dingy
wrote:
My email was intended to be a brief description on how its done not a step by step procedures. Sure... but it's a subject of great interest to many; IMHO the best production dinghies are far too expensive and still have faults... Twelve years ago my daughter build a 11'2" Shellback sailing Dinghy applying four coats (as I have described) of epoxy (No cloth layed over the panels, just at the seams) plus coats of UV paint. Since then this sailing dinghy has been stored outside 12 months a year along the rocky edge of the La Have river NS behind her property. During the Canadian winter its covered with show and ice. This sailing dinghy is used about 4 - 5 time every week during the summer. Kids are often dragging the dinghy on the rocky beach, So far the only maintenance done was painting it with a good quality latex outside house paint every 2 to 3 years. A quick survey was done amongst her friends that have build the same dinghy at the same time using only on coat of epoxy and storing it outside all year. The finding revealed that none of these dinghies were in use anymore. So the longevity is about ten years? That's pretty good. Sounds like you are getting good penetration of the epoxy, plus using good wood. I have built several epoxy & plywood dinghies, usually using cheap ply like lauan which lasts only 5 years or less regardless of care. The ones I built using good marine ply lasted longer plus had a sheath of fine FG cloth. Several people now are using stuff like Dynel which is supposed to be more abrasion-resistant. Epoxy resin is heavy. I've weighed the various components of dinghies that I've built and usually the resin was at least 25% of the weight, thus my comment that you might as well have added some cloth over the panel surfaces. I'm also convinced that any boat which could be layed out in ply panels & assembled could also be built in foam core at only slightly greater expense and it would be much lighter & stiffer (not necessarily stronger but more rigid); with good skills & the right materials it could also be much stronger without much increase in weight. The most recent dinghy that I've built is by far the fanciest and also by far the best http://sports.webshots.com/album/82561569ZSrzNA ..... So far my daughter's Shellback is holding up good. Every time I visit her I keep telling her to cover the boat during the winter. Very good idea. I've kept boats inside and still lost them to gradual water penetration (again mostly using cheap plywood). One of the best, and one which I will probably build another of using better materials, is Bolger's Shoebox design. The 1/4" (7.5mm) luaun ply version weighed about 60lbs (27.3kg) which is too heavy for a small pram; I think using good marine ply you could shave off maybe 10% of the weight, but using foam core you could take off 50% or more of the weight. The Shellback is also a very nice design. I am thinking of getting the sailing rig of the Shellback to put on the "Winnie's Perfect Dinghy." There is also some talk of putting it into production with an option for a nesting/folding version. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Dingy
"cavelamb himself" wrote in message ... wrote: wrote in message ... wrote:. Yes it is. What I have used is 0.185" thick Meranti plywood. Once the layouts have been done and the parts all cut out and labelled. A coat of two parts epoxy is applied on each part individually and allows to dry. Then the parts are assembled (dry) according to the drawing using the stitching method. Afterward, the assembly is validated and corrected, as needed it. After that, the epoxy fillets are applied with fibreglass tape and let to dry. Subsequently, a second coat to of two parts epoxy is applied inside out. Before painting (for UV protection), a third and fourth coasts of epoxy is applied. As you can see, the construction is light and strong. The hardwood gunwales and keel also add to the stiffness of the boat No cloth layed over the panels, just at the seams? Seems like a waste of resin, if you were going to put on two coats you might as well have put on some cloth which would improve strength & abrasion resistance. Foam core would have been lighter & stronger; I've seen a number of tenders & dinghies built using 4mm and 5mm plywood and that's what convinced me to use foam core.... those boats you have to step very carefully in & out of. Fresh Breezes- Doug King Good comments, My email was intended to be a brief description on how its done not a step by step procedures. Twelve years ago my daughter build a 11'2" Shellback sailing Dinghy applying four coats (as I have described) of epoxy (No cloth layed over the panels, just at the seams) plus coats of UV paint. Since then this sailing dinghy has been stored outside 12 months a year along the rocky edge of the La Have river NS behind her property. During the Canadian winter its covered with show and ice. This sailing dinghy is used about 4 - 5 time every week during the summer. Kids are often dragging the dinghy on the rocky beach, So far the only maintenance done was painting it with a good quality latex outside house paint every 2 to 3 years. A quick survey was done amongst her friends that have build the same dinghy at the same time using only on coat of epoxy and storing it outside all year. The finding revealed that none of these dinghies were in use anymore. Water, snow, ice, rain and quick freezing temperature and melt down have caused water infiltration and below freezing temperature causing delaminating of the material used. So far my daughter's Shellback is holding up good. Every time I visit her I keep telling her to cover the boat during the winter. Would that be this one? http://www.woodenboat.com/store/nutbacks.htm Or is it a different design? Yes, the design is from the book "How to build the Shellback Dinghy" by Eric Dow. The boat and sail are exactly the same configuration as shown on the book's cover. |
Dingy
wrote:
Good comments, My email was intended to be a brief description on how its done not a step by step procedures. Twelve years ago my daughter build a 11'2" Shellback sailing Dinghy applying four coats (as I have described) of epoxy (No cloth layed over the panels, just at the seams) plus coats of UV paint. Since then this sailing dinghy has been stored outside 12 months a year along the rocky edge of the La Have river NS behind her property. During the Canadian winter its covered with show and ice. This sailing dinghy is used about 4 - 5 time every week during the summer. Kids are often dragging the dinghy on the rocky beach, So far the only maintenance done was painting it with a good quality latex outside house paint every 2 to 3 years. A quick survey was done amongst her friends that have build the same dinghy at the same time using only on coat of epoxy and storing it outside all year. The finding revealed that none of these dinghies were in use anymore. Water, snow, ice, rain and quick freezing temperature and melt down have caused water infiltration and below freezing temperature causing delaminating of the material used. So far my daughter's Shellback is holding up good. Every time I visit her I keep telling her to cover the boat during the winter. Would that be this one? http://www.woodenboat.com/store/nutbacks.htm Or is it a different design? Yes, the design is from the book "How to build the Shellback Dinghy" by Eric Dow. The boat and sail are exactly the same configuration as shown on the book's cover. That's a sweet looking little boat. While a bit more involved to build than a plywood pram type, it would be something to be proud of when finished. Certainly has a chance as the one... Thanks Richard |
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