On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 16:56:59 -0400, wrote:


"cavelamb himself" wrote in message
...
Bruce in Bangkok wrote:


It is a scow and pretty wide, have a look at:
http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=D5

which is what I used as a model when I designed mine.

The boat is built of 1/8" ply and glassed inside and out with the
lightest cloth I can get. The bow and stern seats are flotation
chambers. The center thwart is not boxed in like the D5 to save
weight, and I made the seat tops from 1/8" ply with a "honeycomb" made
from 3/4" wide strips of ply on the bottom side. This makes the seats
stiff enough to sit or stand on and they are still lighter then
thicker ply.

I have a "Y" shaped sling that attaches to the corners of the transom
and the bow and handle the dinghy with the spinnaker pole lift and use
a boat hook to push it out so it doesn't rub on the topsides.

I'm in Bangkok at the moment and the working drawings are in Phuket
but I can probably scare up the offsets somewhere and email them if
your address is any good.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores from address for reply)


I saw that on on the net and was immediately intrigued.
A very practical looking dink.

1/8" ply? Golly Bruce, that is pretty light construction.

I'm going to guess at about 55 pounds?
(Even 1.5 ounce deck cloth adds noticible weight)

If you have a chance I'd like to see the offsets.
This one could prove to be a good project.

Remove the X from earthlink for the correct address.


Richard


1/8" ply? That is light construction.
Yes it is. What I have used is 0.185" thick Meranti plywood.

Once the layouts have been done and the parts all cut out and labelled.

A coat of two parts epoxy is applied on each part individually and allows to
dry. Then the parts are assembled (dry) according to the drawing using the
stitching method. Afterward, the assembly is validated and corrected, as
needed it. After that, the epoxy fillets are applied with fibreglass tape
and let to dry.

Subsequently, a second coat to of two parts epoxy is applied inside out.
Before painting (for UV protection), a third and fourth coasts of epoxy is
applied. As you can see, the construction is light and strong. The
hardwood gunwales and keel also add to the stiffness of the boat

Not really. It is 1/6" ply glassed both inside and outside. If you are
using four coats of epoxy, inside and outside, the weight is likely
much the same - depending or course how thick you apply the epoxy.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 11:18:15 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:


On Feb 24, 3:29 am, wrote:

... I will also try to rearrange the position of middle seat to properly balance
the dinghy for two people. I welcome comments on relocating the seat to
better accommodate the weight distribution for two people.

I saw a little pram once with the thwart running fore and aft the
length of the boat. The idea being that you sit on it like a
motorcycle or pwc. I'm not sure I'm sold on the idea, but it does
give one lots of seating options...

-- Tom.


A friend has a dinghy built from an Australian design that has a boxed
in center "thwart" running the length of the boat. It actually works
very well for a small boat as it is much easier to keep the boat in
trim with various loads. I have also seen big RIBS with a similar
configuration.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)


In a boat this small, the transverse seat in the center is a major
structural item.

How to make the sides stiff enough to run the seat longitudinally?

Wilbur Hubbard wrote:
"Gregory Hall" ssic lapstrake pulling boat.
It is a great dink, and don't forget Hank looks great in it! Unfortunatly
the Crapton wouldn't like it, it's not made of GRP, I guess he hasn't
heard of carbon fiber yet.

Cheers
Marty
I think GRP includes carbon fiber unless you don't add any resin to the
carbon fiber cloth, that is. Doh!

Greg



Could not have stated it better myself. Good job!

So you two jokers think that glass and carbon fiber are the same thing.
Yet more proof, as if we needed any that no-one should ever take any
advice, marine or otherwise,from you.

Cheers
Marty

On 2008-02-24 13:30:26 -0500, "Don White" said:

For all that expense you could get a nice 10' Walker Bay

The Walker Bay in no way compares to a Portabote.

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 07:50:00 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:

On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 16:56:59 -0400, wrote:


"cavelamb himself" wrote in message
...
Bruce in Bangkok wrote:


It is a scow and pretty wide, have a look at:
http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=D5

which is what I used as a model when I designed mine.

The boat is built of 1/8" ply and glassed inside and out with the
lightest cloth I can get. The bow and stern seats are flotation
chambers. The center thwart is not boxed in like the D5 to save
weight, and I made the seat tops from 1/8" ply with a "honeycomb" made
from 3/4" wide strips of ply on the bottom side. This makes the seats
stiff enough to sit or stand on and they are still lighter then
thicker ply.

I have a "Y" shaped sling that attaches to the corners of the transom
and the bow and handle the dinghy with the spinnaker pole lift and use
a boat hook to push it out so it doesn't rub on the topsides.

I'm in Bangkok at the moment and the working drawings are in Phuket
but I can probably scare up the offsets somewhere and email them if
your address is any good.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores from address for reply)


I saw that on on the net and was immediately intrigued.
A very practical looking dink.

1/8" ply? Golly Bruce, that is pretty light construction.

I'm going to guess at about 55 pounds?
(Even 1.5 ounce deck cloth adds noticible weight)

If you have a chance I'd like to see the offsets.
This one could prove to be a good project.

Remove the X from earthlink for the correct address.


Richard


1/8" ply? That is light construction.
Yes it is. What I have used is 0.185" thick Meranti plywood.

Once the layouts have been done and the parts all cut out and labelled.

A coat of two parts epoxy is applied on each part individually and allows to
dry. Then the parts are assembled (dry) according to the drawing using the
stitching method. Afterward, the assembly is validated and corrected, as
needed it. After that, the epoxy fillets are applied with fibreglass tape
and let to dry.

Subsequently, a second coat to of two parts epoxy is applied inside out.
Before painting (for UV protection), a third and fourth coasts of epoxy is
applied. As you can see, the construction is light and strong. The
hardwood gunwales and keel also add to the stiffness of the boat

Not really. It is 1/6" ply glassed both inside and outside. If you are
using four coats of epoxy, inside and outside, the weight is likely
much the same - depending or course how thick you apply the epoxy.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)


must have hit the wrong key - should read i"It is 1/8"....."


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 18:53:46 -0600, cavelamb himself
wrote:

Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 11:18:15 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:


On Feb 24, 3:29 am, wrote:

... I will also try to rearrange the position of middle seat to properly balance
the dinghy for two people. I welcome comments on relocating the seat to
better accommodate the weight distribution for two people.

I saw a little pram once with the thwart running fore and aft the
length of the boat. The idea being that you sit on it like a
motorcycle or pwc. I'm not sure I'm sold on the idea, but it does
give one lots of seating options...

-- Tom.


A friend has a dinghy built from an Australian design that has a boxed
in center "thwart" running the length of the boat. It actually works
very well for a small boat as it is much easier to keep the boat in
trim with various loads. I have also seen big RIBS with a similar
configuration.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)


In a boat this small, the transverse seat in the center is a major
structural item.

How to make the sides stiff enough to run the seat longitudinally?


A single rib amidships. It works. The bloke I mentioned had the same
dinghy for nearly 10 years and he lives at anchor so the dinghy is
used daily.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

"Jere Lull" wrote in message
news:2008022500313050073-jerelull@maccom...
On 2008-02-24 13:30:26 -0500, "Don White" said:

For all that expense you could get a nice 10' Walker Bay

The Walker Bay in no way compares to a Portabote.

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Jere, you may have already done it. Could you list the differences between
the Walker Bay and the Portabote which makes one better than the other.
I have a feeling that the Walker Bay may be an altered copy of the dinghy
produced by Wedco. If this is the case, the Wedco dinghy was indestructible
but did not row or tow well and not suitable to accommodate an outboard
engine.
At our club we have a few Walker Bay dinghies. I have yet see people rowing
or towing them.

On 2008-02-25 06:50:21 -0500, said:

Jere, you may have already done it. Could you list the differences between
the Walker Bay and the Portabote which makes one better than the other.
I have a feeling that the Walker Bay may be an altered copy of the dinghy
produced by Wedco. If this is the case, the Wedco dinghy was indestructible
but did not row or tow well and not suitable to accommodate an outboard
engine.

Bingo! (Though I believe the WB has a fitting for a small outboard.)
Don't believe it planes particularly well, if at all. All things
considered, I consider it roughly equivalent to a Sea Witch: Good for
beginners, but primary built for displacement speeds (which will be low
at that LWL).

At our club we have a few Walker Bay dinghies. I have yet see people
rowing or towing them.

Not sure whether you're saying you have or not have seen them rowed or
towed. I see them used mostly to get out to the mooring field, myself.

The Portabotes I see are as often rowed as powered for short distances
(up to a mile, I'd guess). They're rarely towed as it only takes a few
minutes to stow them onboard and out of the way. (I walk all over ours
without fears) They tow okay on a short tether, but will surf past the
towing boat if allowed their head.

Size for size, the WB may feel a bit more stable (I haven't done an A-B
compare), but the PB's supplied oars are longer and more substantial.
At a comfortable pace, I row ours at higher speeds than all but real
rowing dinks with proper oars, with about a boat-length between strokes.

A PB going on plane (with as little as a 2.5 Honda pushing my 200#) is
a bit odd, as the hull flexes to follow the low-pressure part of the
wave: The bottom drops out from under your feet. That *does* take some
getting used to. And watch sharp turns at high speeds as it tracks like
it's on rails; no side-slip, so it seems possible to toss unprepared
crew (or the helms-person) overboard. I've heard that the hull gets
squirrely above some speed, but at about 15 knots, the ride is
surprisingly comfortable and dry. It's flexing quite a bit on plane,
but that's how it works with the water and absorbs the waves for the
high efficiency and low bounce.

After about a dozen seasons, we've picked up a small leak in the center
seam. Hasn't developed enough that I've considered doing anything about
it, but will probably contact the factory one of these years to ask how
to fix it.

Oh, the black piping will mark fiberglass. Factory says to bronze wool
it, then put a couple of coats of Armour All or similar on it. And the
material will oxidize from so many seasons' sun. Making a cover for it
is on my to-do list, but it will buff with the usual stuff.

For a less-biased review, see:
http://www.porta-bote.com/practical.html

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

wrote in message
...
On Feb 24, 12:09 pm, "Gregory Hall" wrote:
... I think GRP includes carbon fiber unless you don't add any resin to
the
carbon fiber cloth, that is. Doh! ...

"Doh"?

GRP = Glass Reinforced Plastic.

FRP = Fiber Reinforced Plastic.

Carbon is fiber but carbon is not glass...

-- Tom.

Did you ever hear of FRP? It just so happens that FRP and GRP are used
pretty much interchangeably.

Fiber reinforced plastic definitely includes carbon fiber just as it
includes glass fiber.


Greg

Gregory Hall wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Feb 24, 12:09 pm, "Gregory Hall" wrote:
... I think GRP includes carbon fiber unless you don't add any resin to
the
carbon fiber cloth, that is. Doh! ...
"Doh"?

GRP = Glass Reinforced Plastic.

FRP = Fiber Reinforced Plastic.

Carbon is fiber but carbon is not glass...

-- Tom.

Did you ever hear of FRP? It just so happens that FRP and GRP are used
pretty much interchangeably.

Fiber reinforced plastic definitely includes carbon fiber just as it
includes glass fiber.

Very good Greg, you are learning. Now go back and read Neal's original
post, he specifically stated "GRP", as you seem to have learned, the "G"
stands for GLASS, not carbon.

Cheers
Marty