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Dingy
On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 16:56:59 -0400, wrote:
"cavelamb himself" wrote in message ... Bruce in Bangkok wrote: It is a scow and pretty wide, have a look at: http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=D5 which is what I used as a model when I designed mine. The boat is built of 1/8" ply and glassed inside and out with the lightest cloth I can get. The bow and stern seats are flotation chambers. The center thwart is not boxed in like the D5 to save weight, and I made the seat tops from 1/8" ply with a "honeycomb" made from 3/4" wide strips of ply on the bottom side. This makes the seats stiff enough to sit or stand on and they are still lighter then thicker ply. I have a "Y" shaped sling that attaches to the corners of the transom and the bow and handle the dinghy with the spinnaker pole lift and use a boat hook to push it out so it doesn't rub on the topsides. I'm in Bangkok at the moment and the working drawings are in Phuket but I can probably scare up the offsets somewhere and email them if your address is any good. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) I saw that on on the net and was immediately intrigued. A very practical looking dink. 1/8" ply? Golly Bruce, that is pretty light construction. I'm going to guess at about 55 pounds? (Even 1.5 ounce deck cloth adds noticible weight) If you have a chance I'd like to see the offsets. This one could prove to be a good project. Remove the X from earthlink for the correct address. Richard 1/8" ply? That is light construction. Yes it is. What I have used is 0.185" thick Meranti plywood. Once the layouts have been done and the parts all cut out and labelled. A coat of two parts epoxy is applied on each part individually and allows to dry. Then the parts are assembled (dry) according to the drawing using the stitching method. Afterward, the assembly is validated and corrected, as needed it. After that, the epoxy fillets are applied with fibreglass tape and let to dry. Subsequently, a second coat to of two parts epoxy is applied inside out. Before painting (for UV protection), a third and fourth coasts of epoxy is applied. As you can see, the construction is light and strong. The hardwood gunwales and keel also add to the stiffness of the boat Not really. It is 1/6" ply glassed both inside and outside. If you are using four coats of epoxy, inside and outside, the weight is likely much the same - depending or course how thick you apply the epoxy. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) |
Dingy
Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 11:18:15 -0800 (PST), " wrote: On Feb 24, 3:29 am, wrote: ... I will also try to rearrange the position of middle seat to properly balance the dinghy for two people. I welcome comments on relocating the seat to better accommodate the weight distribution for two people. I saw a little pram once with the thwart running fore and aft the length of the boat. The idea being that you sit on it like a motorcycle or pwc. I'm not sure I'm sold on the idea, but it does give one lots of seating options... -- Tom. A friend has a dinghy built from an Australian design that has a boxed in center "thwart" running the length of the boat. It actually works very well for a small boat as it is much easier to keep the boat in trim with various loads. I have also seen big RIBS with a similar configuration. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) In a boat this small, the transverse seat in the center is a major structural item. How to make the sides stiff enough to run the seat longitudinally? |
Dingy
Wilbur Hubbard wrote:
"Gregory Hall" ssic lapstrake pulling boat. It is a great dink, and don't forget Hank looks great in it! Unfortunatly the Crapton wouldn't like it, it's not made of GRP, I guess he hasn't heard of carbon fiber yet. Cheers Marty I think GRP includes carbon fiber unless you don't add any resin to the carbon fiber cloth, that is. Doh! Greg Could not have stated it better myself. Good job! So you two jokers think that glass and carbon fiber are the same thing. Yet more proof, as if we needed any that no-one should ever take any advice, marine or otherwise,from you. Cheers Marty |
Dingy
On 2008-02-24 13:30:26 -0500, "Don White" said:
For all that expense you could get a nice 10' Walker Bay The Walker Bay in no way compares to a Portabote. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Dingy
On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 07:50:00 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote: On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 16:56:59 -0400, wrote: "cavelamb himself" wrote in message ... Bruce in Bangkok wrote: It is a scow and pretty wide, have a look at: http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=D5 which is what I used as a model when I designed mine. The boat is built of 1/8" ply and glassed inside and out with the lightest cloth I can get. The bow and stern seats are flotation chambers. The center thwart is not boxed in like the D5 to save weight, and I made the seat tops from 1/8" ply with a "honeycomb" made from 3/4" wide strips of ply on the bottom side. This makes the seats stiff enough to sit or stand on and they are still lighter then thicker ply. I have a "Y" shaped sling that attaches to the corners of the transom and the bow and handle the dinghy with the spinnaker pole lift and use a boat hook to push it out so it doesn't rub on the topsides. I'm in Bangkok at the moment and the working drawings are in Phuket but I can probably scare up the offsets somewhere and email them if your address is any good. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) I saw that on on the net and was immediately intrigued. A very practical looking dink. 1/8" ply? Golly Bruce, that is pretty light construction. I'm going to guess at about 55 pounds? (Even 1.5 ounce deck cloth adds noticible weight) If you have a chance I'd like to see the offsets. This one could prove to be a good project. Remove the X from earthlink for the correct address. Richard 1/8" ply? That is light construction. Yes it is. What I have used is 0.185" thick Meranti plywood. Once the layouts have been done and the parts all cut out and labelled. A coat of two parts epoxy is applied on each part individually and allows to dry. Then the parts are assembled (dry) according to the drawing using the stitching method. Afterward, the assembly is validated and corrected, as needed it. After that, the epoxy fillets are applied with fibreglass tape and let to dry. Subsequently, a second coat to of two parts epoxy is applied inside out. Before painting (for UV protection), a third and fourth coasts of epoxy is applied. As you can see, the construction is light and strong. The hardwood gunwales and keel also add to the stiffness of the boat Not really. It is 1/6" ply glassed both inside and outside. If you are using four coats of epoxy, inside and outside, the weight is likely much the same - depending or course how thick you apply the epoxy. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) must have hit the wrong key - should read i"It is 1/8"....." Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) |
Dingy
On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 18:53:46 -0600, cavelamb himself
wrote: Bruce in Bangkok wrote: On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 11:18:15 -0800 (PST), " wrote: On Feb 24, 3:29 am, wrote: ... I will also try to rearrange the position of middle seat to properly balance the dinghy for two people. I welcome comments on relocating the seat to better accommodate the weight distribution for two people. I saw a little pram once with the thwart running fore and aft the length of the boat. The idea being that you sit on it like a motorcycle or pwc. I'm not sure I'm sold on the idea, but it does give one lots of seating options... -- Tom. A friend has a dinghy built from an Australian design that has a boxed in center "thwart" running the length of the boat. It actually works very well for a small boat as it is much easier to keep the boat in trim with various loads. I have also seen big RIBS with a similar configuration. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) In a boat this small, the transverse seat in the center is a major structural item. How to make the sides stiff enough to run the seat longitudinally? A single rib amidships. It works. The bloke I mentioned had the same dinghy for nearly 10 years and he lives at anchor so the dinghy is used daily. Bruce-in-Bangkok (Note:remove underscores from address for reply) |
Dingy
"Jere Lull" wrote in message news:2008022500313050073-jerelull@maccom... On 2008-02-24 13:30:26 -0500, "Don White" said: For all that expense you could get a nice 10' Walker Bay The Walker Bay in no way compares to a Portabote. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ Jere, you may have already done it. Could you list the differences between the Walker Bay and the Portabote which makes one better than the other. I have a feeling that the Walker Bay may be an altered copy of the dinghy produced by Wedco. If this is the case, the Wedco dinghy was indestructible but did not row or tow well and not suitable to accommodate an outboard engine. At our club we have a few Walker Bay dinghies. I have yet see people rowing or towing them. |
Dingy
On 2008-02-25 06:50:21 -0500, said:
Jere, you may have already done it. Could you list the differences between the Walker Bay and the Portabote which makes one better than the other. I have a feeling that the Walker Bay may be an altered copy of the dinghy produced by Wedco. If this is the case, the Wedco dinghy was indestructible but did not row or tow well and not suitable to accommodate an outboard engine. Bingo! (Though I believe the WB has a fitting for a small outboard.) Don't believe it planes particularly well, if at all. All things considered, I consider it roughly equivalent to a Sea Witch: Good for beginners, but primary built for displacement speeds (which will be low at that LWL). At our club we have a few Walker Bay dinghies. I have yet see people rowing or towing them. Not sure whether you're saying you have or not have seen them rowed or towed. I see them used mostly to get out to the mooring field, myself. The Portabotes I see are as often rowed as powered for short distances (up to a mile, I'd guess). They're rarely towed as it only takes a few minutes to stow them onboard and out of the way. (I walk all over ours without fears) They tow okay on a short tether, but will surf past the towing boat if allowed their head. Size for size, the WB may feel a bit more stable (I haven't done an A-B compare), but the PB's supplied oars are longer and more substantial. At a comfortable pace, I row ours at higher speeds than all but real rowing dinks with proper oars, with about a boat-length between strokes. A PB going on plane (with as little as a 2.5 Honda pushing my 200#) is a bit odd, as the hull flexes to follow the low-pressure part of the wave: The bottom drops out from under your feet. That *does* take some getting used to. And watch sharp turns at high speeds as it tracks like it's on rails; no side-slip, so it seems possible to toss unprepared crew (or the helms-person) overboard. I've heard that the hull gets squirrely above some speed, but at about 15 knots, the ride is surprisingly comfortable and dry. It's flexing quite a bit on plane, but that's how it works with the water and absorbs the waves for the high efficiency and low bounce. After about a dozen seasons, we've picked up a small leak in the center seam. Hasn't developed enough that I've considered doing anything about it, but will probably contact the factory one of these years to ask how to fix it. Oh, the black piping will mark fiberglass. Factory says to bronze wool it, then put a couple of coats of Armour All or similar on it. And the material will oxidize from so many seasons' sun. Making a cover for it is on my to-do list, but it will buff with the usual stuff. For a less-biased review, see: http://www.porta-bote.com/practical.html -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Dingy
wrote in message ... On Feb 24, 12:09 pm, "Gregory Hall" wrote: ... I think GRP includes carbon fiber unless you don't add any resin to the carbon fiber cloth, that is. Doh! ... "Doh"? GRP = Glass Reinforced Plastic. FRP = Fiber Reinforced Plastic. Carbon is fiber but carbon is not glass... -- Tom. Did you ever hear of FRP? It just so happens that FRP and GRP are used pretty much interchangeably. Fiber reinforced plastic definitely includes carbon fiber just as it includes glass fiber. Greg |
Dingy
Gregory Hall wrote:
wrote in message ... On Feb 24, 12:09 pm, "Gregory Hall" wrote: ... I think GRP includes carbon fiber unless you don't add any resin to the carbon fiber cloth, that is. Doh! ... "Doh"? GRP = Glass Reinforced Plastic. FRP = Fiber Reinforced Plastic. Carbon is fiber but carbon is not glass... -- Tom. Did you ever hear of FRP? It just so happens that FRP and GRP are used pretty much interchangeably. Fiber reinforced plastic definitely includes carbon fiber just as it includes glass fiber. Very good Greg, you are learning. Now go back and read Neal's original post, he specifically stated "GRP", as you seem to have learned, the "G" stands for GLASS, not carbon. Cheers Marty |
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