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Dingy
On Feb 22, 12:52 pm, Geoff Schultz wrote:
... I was speaking of the shape of the hull. With a single hull you have to deal with the floor being in the V shape of the hull. With a double hull the flooring is flat, which is much nicer to get in and out of. ... Quite. There are a couple of advantages to having a deck. It can be flat, it keeps things dry and it makes the boat stiffer. Weight and restricted access are the only downsides I can think of. However, at least on my single skin boat, the deadrise angle is so shallow aft that it is not at all unpleasant to sit or stand on and the addition of the tiles makes it reasonably dry. Dingies are just boats. They are exercises in compromise and there is no universal best. -- Tom. |
Dingy
Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
Anyone that has to set a second anchor in rough seas is not paying attention. Given the availability of radio weather reports in this day and age anyone who doesn't know what the weather is doing isn't listening. The time to set a second anchor is before the wind gets up. Agreed, but there are more reasons than ignorance of the weather to set an anchor vie dinghy. "Armond Perretta" wrote: I guess I am going to have to study up. I have had one or more (probably more) instances of having to take out gear in the dink for security or weather reasons. Maybe I have just been in places where the weather reports, such as they were, weren't too reliable. I've used a dinghy to set an anchor in a place that the big boat couldn't have gotten to... and it worked out wonderfully, holding the big boat closer in to a place that was secure. I've also used a dinghy to set a security anchor to hold us off a dock. Then there is setting a kedge to pull off from a grounding, although most people probably think it's easier to just call Sea Tow. I have both hard and soft little boats, but in the cases I recall where anchor and chain had to be set from the boat, the hard boat with oars was the one actually used. I probably would have been a little intimidated about having to toss a patent-style anchor into a rubber boat in the dark, or with a sea making up. No such fears about the hard boat, and in fact the rig performed quite well. I have never liked outboard motors, a RIB was out of the question. We have a dinghy that I designed & built, and consider it as close to perfect for our uses as could be: it is very easy to row, stable, and looks like a classic lapstrake pulling boat. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Dingy
On 2008-02-21 23:55:55 -0500, Wayne.B said:
We've had good experiences with both a 12 ft Avon roll up with aluminum floor and inflatable keel, and also an 11 ft Caribe RIB. We have used a 15 hp Merc in the past but presently have a 20 hp Honda. They will plane off at 15+ kts with 3 people on board but struggle with 4. They both require a hoist and a fair amount of deck space for storage. On the other hand, our 12.5' PortaBote delivers 10+ knots with 300+ pounds of people onboard with 4 HP, and planed at about the same speed with 5 adults powered by a 7.5 Honda high-thrust sailboat kicker. I'd be afraid to throw 15 hp into our PortaBote with any number aboard, as the likely speeds would be truly beyond my comfort level. 20 hp? No chance I'd open the throttle to full. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Dingy
On 22 Feb 2008 16:53:02 -0600, Dave wrote:
On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 17:40:24 -0500, Wayne.B said: There is a reason why Navy SEALS use RIBs and not FoldBotes. Ergo, if your needs are the same as those of a Navy SEAL, buy a RIB. Why do I not find that too persuasive? So get something else. |
Dingy
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Dingy
Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
One of my money earning hobbies is building dinghies. I designed and built several 8 ft glass over plywood boats that will carry three adults (well, skinny ones) quite safely in any weather I want to be out in a dinghy. They aren't as light as a rubber duck but they are light enough that I can pick one up by my self. Local made rubber dinghies are running a bit over $1,000 here and I can build glass over plywood boat for about a third of that. Now that would be interesting. Do you have any more info on them you can share? I would't mind building my own. (I suspect postage on something like that would be a bit over the top.) But we would have to work out a way to swing it aboard first. I have never liked outboard motors, a RIB was out of the question. We have a dinghy that I designed & built, and consider it as close to perfect for our uses as could be: it is very easy to row, stable, and looks like a classic lapstrake pulling boat. No one has mentioned it yet, but an outboard means storing gasoline on board. The big boat has a diesel engine and diesel generator. Besides the flammability issue, there is the simple problem of logistics of having a second kind of fuel to stow. A good rowing boat - maybe with a simple sail for the longer pulls? |
Dingy
On Feb 23, 4:33 am, wrote:
... Umm... Having owned both, I can say that the Porta-Bote is every bit as seaworthy, has more useful room for a given size boat, has a drier ride, can be rowed easily in a straight line, sailed or motored while full of water without capsizing, and planes with a very small lightweight motor. Mine eagerly jumps up on top of the water with a 3.5 HP motor that weighs 29 pounds. I never have to tow it, because I can hand launch and retrieve it without a hoist, and it folds up flat in a few minutes to be lashed to the lifelines. It costs half what a blow up boat costs, and of course the motor costs a fraction of what is required for a RIB to perform as well. I don't need a patch kit, either. You certainly make them sound nice. What are their disadvantages? How do they work as a dive boats? Can you run them ashore in the surf? Can you self-recuse one that's full of water? -- Tom. |
Dingy
cavelamb himself wrote:
Bruce in Bangkok wrote: One of my money earning hobbies is building dinghies. I designed and built several 8 ft glass over plywood boats that will carry three adults (well, skinny ones) quite safely in any weather I want to be out in a dinghy. They aren't as light as a rubber duck but they are light enough that I can pick one up by my self. Local made rubber dinghies are running a bit over $1,000 here and I can build glass over plywood boat for about a third of that. Now that would be interesting. Do you have any more info on them you can share? I would't mind building my own. (I suspect postage on something like that would be a bit over the top.) But we would have to work out a way to swing it aboard first. I have never liked outboard motors, a RIB was out of the question. We have a dinghy that I designed & built, and consider it as close to perfect for our uses as could be: it is very easy to row, stable, and looks like a classic lapstrake pulling boat. No one has mentioned it yet, but an outboard means storing gasoline on board. The big boat has a diesel engine and diesel generator. Besides the flammability issue, there is the simple problem of logistics of having a second kind of fuel to stow. A good rowing boat - maybe with a simple sail for the longer pulls? http://www.microcruising.com/ding1.htm http://www.simplicityboats.com/summerbreezetemp.html http://www.pelinplans.co.nz/canoes_dinghies_plans.htm And the one I like http://www.riparia.org/rachel.html G |
Rowing a porta-bote (was) Dingy
On Feb 23, 2:34 pm, wrote:
Oh, yeah. The included, aluminum collapsible oars are fine for emergencies, but if you are going to mostly row, rather than use a motor, you'll want to get a set of real, full length oars and oarlocks. The oarlock sockets need a minor modification to accept real oarlocks. I bring the collapsible oars only as backup when using the motor. I doubt anything could convince me to go back to an inflatable. I strongly second the general wimpieess of the supplied oars. I modified my Bote to accept standard feathering rowlocks, and kept one of the sets of oars I used to use with my rowing shells. I had to move the collars all the way to the inside to make it fit with (still) more overlap than standard, and the sides are floppy, so it takes a fine hand to make sure the pull is straight (don't push or pull the collar, essentially, on the stroke). I've never really tried, but I believe that if I were to work at it, I could plane it :{)) I sorely miss the sliding seat part of my rowing but that would complicate matters and storage severely. Someone more serious than I could surely make that happen, though, as the Alden shells are little more than canoes with clips into which you mount the sliding seat and rigger package. There are several manufacturers of drop-in sliding-seat rowing gear, but each setup likely would increase the cost of the bote by a good half or more; the oars are another significant portion if you don't already own them (I did - new, they're $400 the pair). From a standing start, on flat ground, I can take it out of a van, assemble it, and be rowing, and in reverse, land, disassemble and stow it in the van in 5 minutes each way including mounting the rowlock assembly. Pix of the modification are in the gallery, if you would like to see it, at:http://www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery/index.php? mode=album&album=Morgan+461+Hull+Number+2+Refit+%2 B+Projects %2FFinishing_Touches-Readying_To_Splash%2FPorta- Bote_Maiden_Voyage_and_Sculling_Modifications, or http://tinyurl.com/2we3rp There are pix of the sculling oars and of the standard oars in use as well as my modifications... L8R Skip Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog "You are never given a wish without also being given the power to make it come true. You may have to work for it however." (and) "There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in its hands. You seek problems because you need their gifts." (Richard Bach, in The Reluctant Messiah) |
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