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Boat Choices
On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 11:29:31 -0600, "Wendy"
wrote: "Armond Perretta" wrote in message ... However depending on boat size, having a canoe stern gives up a few positive aspects of transom stern boats without necessarily offering compensation. I want to suggest (at the risk of drawing ire) that there has never been any real evidence that these designs are any better or worse than transom boats in rough going. We hear things about "parting breaking waves and seas" and so on, but I don't believe there is any quantifiable evidence that double-enders do any better than any other designs. Not that they do any worse either, but there's a suggestion of superiority out there that is not supported by any real evidence. It seems like the design would simply *have* to be easier in a following sea. I spent a lot of time running these boats http://www.boatshow.com/POWER/CustomDivePro42.html which are rudderless jets, and they were horrid in a following sea. But I admit that comparing a 300hp non-displacement hull to a 35-40 sailboat is an apples-and-oranges thing. My experiences may well be a hindrance here... I am not committed to a double-ender. Wendy, you are indeed extrapolating from something unrelated. Remember, essentially all keel sailboats are doubelenders at and below the waterline. The visible "canoe stern" loses a great deal of aft buoyancy in a following sea. I suggest that buying a long-distance cruiser is premature. Until, that is, you have tried different kinds of boats to find out what you enjoy sailing. Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a The meme for blind faith secures its own perpetuation by the simple unconscious expedient of discouraging rational inquiry. - Richard Dawkins, "Viruses of the Mind" |
Boat Choices
"Rodney Myrvaagnes" wrote in message ... I suggest that buying a long-distance cruiser is premature. Until, that is, you have tried different kinds of boats to find out what you enjoy sailing. I think there is a lot of merit in this observation, Rodney. I'm probably starting from the "what I would like to have" point rather than the "what would best suit me at this time" point. That said, I've loads of time to figure all of this out. I'll get more involved in the local sailing community, which will, I am sure, help and affect my purchasing decision a lot. I'm off today to look at some boats, and that may well be an eye-opening experience. Wendy |
Boat Choices
"Rodney Myrvaagnes" wrote in message ... I suggest that buying a long-distance cruiser is premature. Until, that is, you have tried different kinds of boats to find out what you enjoy sailing. I think there is a lot of merit in this observation, Rodney. I'm probably starting from the "what I would like to have" point rather than the "what would best suit me at this time" point. That said, I've loads of time to figure all of this out. I'll get more involved in the local sailing community, which will, I am sure, help and affect my purchasing decision a lot. I'm off today to look at some boats, and that may well be an eye-opening experience. Wendy |
Boat Choices
"Rich Hampel" wrote in message ... The 'metallurgy' on taiwanese boats leaves very much to be desired. I ran into most of these inferior metal problems on my '76 Cheoy Lee. However between the previous owner and my ownership. We collectively replaced those items that effected the overall safety of the boat.. It was 12 years old when I got it so some of these problems were already becoming evident and were picked up in the survey. I would estimate that I spent about 5% of the purchase price in hardware and equipment upgrades because of the chinese crap or knock-offs. The only thing I couldn't really do much about without spending a fortune, was the teak decks.. All I could do there was try to refill any seams or plug holes that opened up. All that said, I really liked the boat, she had an excellent hull layup, was of a good design (Luder) and was a great boat in open water or single handing in close quarters. Bottom line. There only two US production boat I would want to own for passage making, Shannon and Pacific Seacraft. If I couldn't get into one of them then I would do like I have done, Build my own.. For everyone else.. If they are careful and get a good surveyor working for them, they can have a fine boat from Tiawan and then fix everything that the surveyor finds wrong.. He/She would still have a better boat than a Hunter or orther US production boats. -- My opinion and experience. FWIW Steve s/v Good Intentions |
Boat Choices
"Rich Hampel" wrote in message ... The 'metallurgy' on taiwanese boats leaves very much to be desired. I ran into most of these inferior metal problems on my '76 Cheoy Lee. However between the previous owner and my ownership. We collectively replaced those items that effected the overall safety of the boat.. It was 12 years old when I got it so some of these problems were already becoming evident and were picked up in the survey. I would estimate that I spent about 5% of the purchase price in hardware and equipment upgrades because of the chinese crap or knock-offs. The only thing I couldn't really do much about without spending a fortune, was the teak decks.. All I could do there was try to refill any seams or plug holes that opened up. All that said, I really liked the boat, she had an excellent hull layup, was of a good design (Luder) and was a great boat in open water or single handing in close quarters. Bottom line. There only two US production boat I would want to own for passage making, Shannon and Pacific Seacraft. If I couldn't get into one of them then I would do like I have done, Build my own.. For everyone else.. If they are careful and get a good surveyor working for them, they can have a fine boat from Tiawan and then fix everything that the surveyor finds wrong.. He/She would still have a better boat than a Hunter or orther US production boats. -- My opinion and experience. FWIW Steve s/v Good Intentions |
Boat Choices
Steve makes an important point about a surveyor.
However many designs/models are discussed in depth on various 'owners groups' etc. located all over the web. It is incredible how many important items are not found by highly touted and well recommended surveyors. I well realize there is a definite difference between a simple 'insurance' survey and a full scale in-depth survey .... but without developing a specific list of known problem items typical to each design and presenting this list to a 'surveyor' you can blindly accept major repair potential through acceptance of an 'insurance' survey. I cant reiterate this too much: once you decide on a certain design, have preliminarily chosen 'the' boat - go to the owners groups and carefully extract identified 'problems' of the design and be sure to have the surveyor pay special attention to these items. |
Boat Choices
Steve makes an important point about a surveyor.
However many designs/models are discussed in depth on various 'owners groups' etc. located all over the web. It is incredible how many important items are not found by highly touted and well recommended surveyors. I well realize there is a definite difference between a simple 'insurance' survey and a full scale in-depth survey .... but without developing a specific list of known problem items typical to each design and presenting this list to a 'surveyor' you can blindly accept major repair potential through acceptance of an 'insurance' survey. I cant reiterate this too much: once you decide on a certain design, have preliminarily chosen 'the' boat - go to the owners groups and carefully extract identified 'problems' of the design and be sure to have the surveyor pay special attention to these items. |
Boat Choices
Wendy wrote:
It seems like the design would simply *have* to be easier in a following sea. Like the song says, "It ain't necessarily so." There are a couple of factors that affect how a boat behaves in a following sea, and it also makes a big difference in how bad a following sea you plan to be in. An important characteristic in any boat, sail or power, is reserve bouyancy... in other words, as conditions (rolling, heeling, big waves, whatever) stick the hull or a part of it deeper into the water, how strongly does the hull, or that deeper immersed part of the hull, try to rise? This is one case where more is better. And a boat with a transom is going to have more enclosed volume, thus more reserve bouyancy, than a canoe stern. But keep in mind, most long distance cruisers avoid heavy weather and spend less than 1% of their sailing time battling storms. The one thing that I don't like about canoe sterns, and heard the most complaints about, is that it severely reduces cockpit area (thus available living space) and it's difficult to mount equipment on them. Not the be-all and end-all goal. I'm not antisocial :) Being single, I simply expect there would be times when I would sail alone. I may be best served by something smaller, but 37' is attractive. The Pacific Seacraft at 32' would be fine, I think. Size isn't really an issue for singlehanding (or shorthanding), people have singlehanded surprisingly large boats... over a hundred feet LOA. Equipment is a big issue though; and so is skill & forethought. In former times, big sailing cargo were sailed by as few men as could be done with, to keep crew expense down. You can read accounts of three masted schooners being sailed by two men & a dog ;) One of the things I'd recommend is to get as much experience as possible sailing OPBs. You seem to have the credentials to be a highly sought after crew, it should be difficult to get a berth on some deliveries. It's no problem at all if you're willing to bring boats back from races! Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Boat Choices
Wendy wrote:
It seems like the design would simply *have* to be easier in a following sea. Like the song says, "It ain't necessarily so." There are a couple of factors that affect how a boat behaves in a following sea, and it also makes a big difference in how bad a following sea you plan to be in. An important characteristic in any boat, sail or power, is reserve bouyancy... in other words, as conditions (rolling, heeling, big waves, whatever) stick the hull or a part of it deeper into the water, how strongly does the hull, or that deeper immersed part of the hull, try to rise? This is one case where more is better. And a boat with a transom is going to have more enclosed volume, thus more reserve bouyancy, than a canoe stern. But keep in mind, most long distance cruisers avoid heavy weather and spend less than 1% of their sailing time battling storms. The one thing that I don't like about canoe sterns, and heard the most complaints about, is that it severely reduces cockpit area (thus available living space) and it's difficult to mount equipment on them. Not the be-all and end-all goal. I'm not antisocial :) Being single, I simply expect there would be times when I would sail alone. I may be best served by something smaller, but 37' is attractive. The Pacific Seacraft at 32' would be fine, I think. Size isn't really an issue for singlehanding (or shorthanding), people have singlehanded surprisingly large boats... over a hundred feet LOA. Equipment is a big issue though; and so is skill & forethought. In former times, big sailing cargo were sailed by as few men as could be done with, to keep crew expense down. You can read accounts of three masted schooners being sailed by two men & a dog ;) One of the things I'd recommend is to get as much experience as possible sailing OPBs. You seem to have the credentials to be a highly sought after crew, it should be difficult to get a berth on some deliveries. It's no problem at all if you're willing to bring boats back from races! Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Boat Choices
DSK wrote:
Size isn't really an issue for singlehanding ... Yes it is, Doug. There! Howizzat fer a convincin' argument? I will omit the discussion about hydraulic winches and furlers, athletic ability, age, pocketbook, and "real" people. At least for the time being. -- Good luck and good sailing. s/v Kerry Deare of Barnegat http://kerrydeare.home.comcast.net/ |
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