On Dec 16, 5:49 am, no onecares wrote:
I know some of you cruisers are using a british seagull engine for
your dingy.
I just purchased one, in good running condition, but has no paperwork.
Where can I download manuals, info, etc?

I know I can buy them, but I am sure there are some groups like with
the A4 that share them and talk up a storm!

thanks

Joe

I rebuilt an old segull once. My big mistake was neglecting the
ignition system. And the coil was bad making it real hard to start.
I luckly found a guy way back with a spare. If you were a coil
winding type of shop you just might get one rebuilt. It was super easy
to start with the new coil.

It also had a leaky carburater. Gas would leak out the little hole on
the side. Implying a bad float or float needle valve. The float was
perfect, the valve was not. I was real upset at the cost of a new
carburator so i got mad and got a hammer and peened the needle into
the seat with a tap of a small hammer. Believe it of not, the floated
needle then worked perfectly with no overfloaws. A light hammer job
I could not believe it. It saved half the cost of a new outboard.
Parts are hell.

The little impeller housing for the water pump was all corroaded due
to heavy salt water uasge. Dismantling thelower unit revealed a
perfect hard plastic impeller that never makes contact with the
housing sides by design. It is a durable plastic likely to not be
ever an issue unless age makes it crack. Although salt water can clog
all water passages eventually after a season of hard usage.

The leaky gear box shaft seal is an issue. Adding oil every day
stinks. You just have to live with the issue and add or check the oil
every other day after heavy usage. I neglected the issue and burned
out the upper pinion gear. Parts were findable twenty years ago. Now a
days a new set, just might mean a new outboard would be a better
choice.

It should be considered a style of outboarding I believe. Seagulling
arround and all. A lightweight four horse power johnson is a good
alternative.

On Wed, 19 Dec 2007 08:20:11 +0100, "Edgar"
wrote:


"Richard Casady" wrote in message
. ..
On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 15:28:31 +0100, "Edgar"
wrote:

you will have trouble with plug oiling

A bandaid is platinum point plugs. Those fine wires can run very hot,
and cool fast enough to avoid preignition, and they don't burn up. The
auto makers recomment you change them every 100k miles.


But can you get them for a motor that requires 18mm plugs?

Good question. Wouldn't be that hard to bore out the hole a bit, to
the closest available larger size. Certainly plenty of metal around
the existing hole. I mean it isnt' a hemi with the biggest possible
valves. Two strokes are mostly flatheads.

Casady

On Wed, 19 Dec 2007 04:52:22 -0800 (PST), Douglas Eagleson
wrote:

It should be considered a style of outboarding I believe. Seagulling
arround and all. A lightweight four horse power johnson is a good
alternative.

I understand parts are ridiculously expensive on those too.

Casady

On Wed, 19 Dec 2007 14:28:44 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

....
A bandaid is platinum point plugs....

But can you get them for a motor that requires 18mm plugs?

Good question. Wouldn't be that hard to bore out the hole a bit, to
the closest available larger size...

Casady

Uh? 14 mm plugs are the usual platinum offering, I believe.
An adaptor might do the job.

Brian W

On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 02:06:38 GMT, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

Uh? 14 mm plugs are the usual platinum offering, I believe.
An adaptor might do the job.

I didn't know that. I do know they are great, are pretty much immune
to fouling and last at least 100 000 miles, which i just as well,to
since it takes two hours on my current ride. My 75 Volvo had a lot
under the hood, but plugs took five minutes. It always had room for
the tools and a hand, and you never had to take stuff off to get at
other stuff. The good old days were when you could work on the motor.
Stuff like brakes haven't changed and the shade tree mechanics can
still work on them.

Casady