"Paul Cassel" wrote
after shutting off all breakers in the 120 v circuit, put a voltmeter
inline with the pigtail to see if, in fact, you are still drawing current.

Volt meter? Inline? To measure current? Huh?

Ernest Scribbler wrote:
"Paul Cassel" wrote
after shutting off all breakers in the 120 v circuit, put a voltmeter
inline with the pigtail to see if, in fact, you are still drawing current.

Volt meter? Inline? To measure current? Huh?


Yeah, stupid me. I mean multimeter.

On 2007-12-10 08:30:09 -0500, Paul Cassel
said:

Ernest Scribbler wrote:
"Paul Cassel" wrote
after shutting off all breakers in the 120 v circuit, put a voltmeter
inline with the pigtail to see if, in fact, you are still drawing
current.

Volt meter? Inline? To measure current? Huh?

Yeah, stupid me. I mean multimeter.

Hmmm. You have a multi-meter that'll directly measure more than a few
milliwatts?

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

On Mon, 10 Dec 2007 01:57:32 GMT, Jere Lull wrote:

On 2007-12-10 08:30:09 -0500, Paul Cassel
said:

Ernest Scribbler wrote:
"Paul Cassel" wrote
after shutting off all breakers in the 120 v circuit, put a voltmeter
inline with the pigtail to see if, in fact, you are still drawing
current.

Volt meter? Inline? To measure current? Huh?

Yeah, stupid me. I mean multimeter.

Hmmm. You have a multi-meter that'll directly measure more than a few
milliwatts?

Mine is a digital with a ten amp fuse on the Amp function. Fluke 87 as
a matter of fact. All the professional heating and cooling guys, and
the appliance repairman, seem to have one like it.

Casady

"Richard Casady" wrote
Mine is a digital with a ten amp fuse on the Amp function. Fluke 87 as
a matter of fact. All the professional heating and cooling guys, and
the appliance repairman, seem to have one like it.

That's well and good, but an ammeter with a 10A fuse may not be very helpful
in a circuit that's tripping a 15A breaker. I think I'd start by removing
all the power and using the 87's ohm meter function.

On Sun, 9 Dec 2007 22:26:58 -0500, "Ernest Scribbler"
wrote:

"Richard Casady" wrote
Mine is a digital with a ten amp fuse on the Amp function. Fluke 87 as
a matter of fact. All the professional heating and cooling guys, and
the appliance repairman, seem to have one like it.

That's well and good, but an ammeter with a 10A fuse may not be very helpful
in a circuit that's tripping a 15A breaker. I think I'd start by removing
all the power and using the 87's ohm meter function.

A good digital you can plug it into a wall socket with it on Ohms
without damage.

Casady

"Richard Casady" wrote
an ammeter with a 10A fuse may not be very helpful
in a circuit that's tripping a 15A breaker

A good digital you can plug it into a wall socket with it on Ohms
without damage.

I'll keep that in mind in case I ever want to try it.

My point is that, at best, a current measurement in this case is only going
to tell you what you already know.

On Mon, 10 Dec 2007 01:57:32 GMT, Jere Lull wrote:

On 2007-12-10 08:30:09 -0500, Paul Cassel
said:

Ernest Scribbler wrote:
"Paul Cassel" wrote
after shutting off all breakers in the 120 v circuit, put a voltmeter
inline with the pigtail to see if, in fact, you are still drawing
current.

Volt meter? Inline? To measure current? Huh?

Yeah, stupid me. I mean multimeter.

Hmmm. You have a multi-meter that'll directly measure more than a few
milliwatts?

Multimeter? In-line? To measure power? Huh?
:-)
Ho-hum....A 10 Amp range is not unusual in a digital MM
But a power scale is rather unusual - except the dB scale that makes
some load presumptions - that you may be referring to?

Brian W