"Skip Gundlach" wrote in
message ink.net...
I'm a bit confused, apparently, by semantics or my limited exposure...

I hadn't heard of plug valves, so I went looking. What I saw looked about
like every ball valve on the insides - except none had easily
position-noted
lever handles on the outsides.

A tapered plug valve led to visions of the kind of valves I used in
titration in school - a tapered seat with a matching taper on the

Your visions were correct. A plug valve has a tappered plug, just as you
discribe here..

If you are looking as something that resembles a ball valve then your not
looking at a true plug valve.

I have been boating for 45 yrs and all of my boats until 10 years ago had
tapered plug seacocks. (my last boat being a '76 Cheoy Lee Clipper 33) This
boat had 'knock off' tapered plug valves. That was the standard and the
proper valve or sea cock in boats built up into the '70s.

I just wish I had a good online reference to what a proper tapered plug
valve looks like..

I'll do some Googling on my own.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

"Steve" wrote in message
...

I just wish I had a good online reference to what a proper tapered plug
valve looks like..


OK, here is the best I could do with a quick Google. It is a commercial
TAPERED PLUG VALVE.
http://www.conind.com/pdf/plug%20valve.pdf

It's not a sea cock but it is a tapered plug valve and has straight threads
on the inlet side and standard pipe threads on the outlet side. In this
valve the plug could be removed and the plug lapped/overhauled without
removing the valve from the system.. With a plug in the through hull, it
could be serviced in the water. (I've done this many times) You could never
do this with a ball valve since the ball can not be easily removed and if it
is, there is no way to resurface the ball surface if scored.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

On Thu, 8 Jan 2004 19:03:52 -0800, "Steve" wrote:


"Steve" wrote in message
...

I just wish I had a good online reference to what a proper tapered plug
valve looks like..


OK, here is the best I could do with a quick Google. It is a commercial
TAPERED PLUG VALVE.
http://www.conind.com/pdf/plug%20valve.pdf

Thanks, Steve...that's interesting...I still like my ball valves,
though, but in some inaccessible places, these could be good.

R.

That's basically it.

Here's the real deal:
http://spartanmarine.com/source/25.htm

Eric

"Steve" wrote in message ...
"Steve" wrote in message
...

I just wish I had a good online reference to what a proper tapered plug
valve looks like..


OK, here is the best I could do with a quick Google. It is a commercial
TAPERED PLUG VALVE.
http://www.conind.com/pdf/plug%20valve.pdf

It's not a sea cock but it is a tapered plug valve and has straight threads
on the inlet side and standard pipe threads on the outlet side. In this
valve the plug could be removed and the plug lapped/overhauled without
removing the valve from the system.. With a plug in the through hull, it
could be serviced in the water. (I've done this many times) You could never
do this with a ball valve since the ball can not be easily removed and if it
is, there is no way to resurface the ball surface if scored.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

On Thu, 8 Jan 2004 19:03:52 -0800, "Steve" wrote:


"Steve" wrote in message
...

I just wish I had a good online reference to what a proper tapered plug
valve looks like..


OK, here is the best I could do with a quick Google. It is a commercial
TAPERED PLUG VALVE.
http://www.conind.com/pdf/plug%20valve.pdf

Thanks, Steve...that's interesting...I still like my ball valves,
though, but in some inaccessible places, these could be good.

R.

That's basically it.

Here's the real deal:
http://spartanmarine.com/source/25.htm

Eric

"Steve" wrote in message ...
"Steve" wrote in message
...

I just wish I had a good online reference to what a proper tapered plug
valve looks like..


OK, here is the best I could do with a quick Google. It is a commercial
TAPERED PLUG VALVE.
http://www.conind.com/pdf/plug%20valve.pdf

It's not a sea cock but it is a tapered plug valve and has straight threads
on the inlet side and standard pipe threads on the outlet side. In this
valve the plug could be removed and the plug lapped/overhauled without
removing the valve from the system.. With a plug in the through hull, it
could be serviced in the water. (I've done this many times) You could never
do this with a ball valve since the ball can not be easily removed and if it
is, there is no way to resurface the ball surface if scored.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

"Steve" wrote in message
...

I just wish I had a good online reference to what a proper tapered plug
valve looks like..


OK, here is the best I could do with a quick Google. It is a commercial
TAPERED PLUG VALVE.
http://www.conind.com/pdf/plug%20valve.pdf

It's not a sea cock but it is a tapered plug valve and has straight threads
on the inlet side and standard pipe threads on the outlet side. In this
valve the plug could be removed and the plug lapped/overhauled without
removing the valve from the system.. With a plug in the through hull, it
could be serviced in the water. (I've done this many times) You could never
do this with a ball valve since the ball can not be easily removed and if it
is, there is no way to resurface the ball surface if scored.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

On Thu, 8 Jan 2004 18:48:55 -0800, "Steve" wrote:


"Skip Gundlach" wrote in
message ink.net...
I'm a bit confused, apparently, by semantics or my limited exposure...

I hadn't heard of plug valves, so I went looking. What I saw looked about
like every ball valve on the insides - except none had easily
position-noted
lever handles on the outsides.

A tapered plug valve led to visions of the kind of valves I used in
titration in school - a tapered seat with a matching taper on the

Your visions were correct. A plug valve has a tappered plug, just as you
discribe here..

If you are looking as something that resembles a ball valve then your not
looking at a true plug valve.

I have been boating for 45 yrs and all of my boats until 10 years ago had
tapered plug seacocks. (my last boat being a '76 Cheoy Lee Clipper 33) This
boat had 'knock off' tapered plug valves. That was the standard and the
proper valve or sea cock in boats built up into the '70s.

I just wish I had a good online reference to what a proper tapered plug
valve looks like..

You may see what you are looking for at

http://spartanmarine.com/ and click on "seacocks". That is what I
have on my boat, but I'll be honest. These things, while heavy and
stout, do tend to want to stick if not opened and closed regularly. I
am not sure I wouldn't prefer ball valves or the Forespar marelon, but
I am still pondering. My current disgruntlement probably brought on
by the fact that two of mine are now stuck in the open position, which
doesn't make me happy at all as my boat is in the water over the
winter. Something I have to take care of ASAP.



I'll do some Googling on my own.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

"felton" wrote in message
I am still pondering. My current disgruntlement probably brought on
by the fact that two of mine are now stuck in the open position, which
doesn't make me happy at all as my boat is in the water over the
winter. Something I have to take care of ASAP.



Shame on you Felton. You should have been cycling those sea cocks every time
you used the boat or at least once a month.. Even the Forspar Marelon valves
have a tag on the handle recommending that they be cylcled monthly and
lubricated annually.

However, I'm afraid I'm guilty of this same neglect.

You should be able to free these valves by loosing the nut on the bottom of
the plug, tap it with a soft hammer (or hammer on a block of wood). Since
the plug is tappered it should come loose from the seat and rotate.. After
operating it though a number of cycles, adjust the nut just enough to
lightly hold the plug in place.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

On Fri, 9 Jan 2004 08:33:43 -0800, "Steve" wrote:


"felton" wrote in message
I am still pondering. My current disgruntlement probably brought on
by the fact that two of mine are now stuck in the open position, which
doesn't make me happy at all as my boat is in the water over the
winter. Something I have to take care of ASAP.



Shame on you Felton. You should have been cycling those sea cocks every time
you used the boat or at least once a month.. Even the Forspar Marelon valves
have a tag on the handle recommending that they be cylcled monthly and
lubricated annually.

I am generally pretty good about closing all the seacocks when I leave
the boat. I suspect it is not a coincidence that these two are the
hardest to reach, so I may have been less than perfect in this
regard For the same reason, they will be the hardest to work on

However, I'm afraid I'm guilty of this same neglect.

You should be able to free these valves by loosing the nut on the bottom of
the plug, tap it with a soft hammer (or hammer on a block of wood). Since
the plug is tappered it should come loose from the seat and rotate.. After
operating it though a number of cycles, adjust the nut just enough to
lightly hold the plug in place.

Thanks. I was planning on taking some of my persuaders with me the
next time I go to the boat. I hate leaving those things open.


Steve
s/v Good Intentions