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On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 06:34:00 -0700, Joe
wrote: On Aug 17, 4:06 am, wrote: On Thu, 16 Aug 2007 19:13:57 -0400, "Roger Long" wrote: I went back down to the boat for something I forgot and decided I wanted to play around a little more. I've been telling myself since I got the boat that I should try hand starting the diesel. Better to climb the learning curve at the dock than while drifting down towards a steep lee shore after some electrical system disaster. I also have the hand start ability factored into my battery management strategy. Thanks to this newsgroup, I know that hand starting a 20 hp, twin cylinder, diesel is near the edge of feasibility but doable. I pulled the big forged or cast iron starting handle out of its handy brackets next to the engine and put it in place. HUH!? The fiberglass structure of the engine compartment enclosure makes it impossible to turn the handle more than a quarter turn. Since hand starting requires getting it spinning rapidly with the cylinders decompressed and then using the inertia of the flywheel and engine to (hopefully) kick it into life as you continue to assist with the crank, there is no way this could begin to work. I can categorically say that no one has ever hand started one of these boats unless they were originally delivered with a special handle that the PO perhaps replaced with the stock item (judging by the paint) not realizing that it couldn't possibly start the engine. This design defect has persisted through multiple models of a 1980 boat without ever coming to the notice of the builders or being noted on the owner's group web site. This is the most common engine installed in the class. It's a perfect lesson of the test-everything-and-assume-nothing principle. I now have a conundrum. I can spend more money to have the handle cut apart and an extension welded in. The leverage of the cranking force working over the longer length makes proper functioning questionable unless some structure with a bearing is provided. I just spent a couple hundred dollars on insurance in the form of chain so I'm not sure a starting handle for an engine that can just barely be hand started is the wisest next expenditure. I may just remove all of the hand start apparatus, which is pretty extensive and in the way on this particular model, and join the ranks of larger boat owners who live with the fact that their engines are not going to start without a functioning battery and electrical system. Hey! Isn't the Roger Long who designs boats? Now you know how the rest of us feel when we discover that to save space, make the hull a better shape, or some other trivial reason you can't get THAT nut off until you remove THIS thing over here :-) Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Come on Bruce, boat designers know what they are doing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8F_GW1ep5ls Joe Well, of course you are correct - HOWEVER - what they are doing is perhaps not what I wish they had been doing when I am working on a boat. For example, I'm sure that America's Cup boats are designed to be the most efficient sailing boats in the world, but I doubt very much that the designer gave much thought to changing the filters on the auxiliary engine..... On the other hand, if I were paying for the design of an America's Cup boat perhaps I would have less interest in how to change the filters..... As an aside, the first Farr 40 my wife saw didn't impress her one little bit. No back on the cockpit and a stupid little one burner stove? Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom) |