I am seriously looking at the Tayana 37 as a cruiser to do some serious
coastal/offshore sailing and would appreciate any informed opinions on this
boat. Specifically, does this boat suffer from any fleet wide hull or
rigging problems I should be sure to have the surveyor examine closely.
Also, given the boat is suitably rigged, how would you rate the boat for
singlehanding. Thanks

In general, the Tayana 37's are great boats with a very loyal following.
I've been told, but never had it verified that more SSCA members have
them than any other boat/model. Be sure to check out Sailnet's Tayana
listserver if you're really serious about this.

Things to look for:
The structural stainless steel (chain plates, etc.) is not up to the
same high standards as the rest of the boat. Make sure the surveyor
takes a good look at them.

Ta Yang (the yard that builds them) installs a black iron fuel tank
under the V-berth and a SS water tank in the bildge to increase ready
storage Bob Perry designed it with the fuel in the bildge and the water
tanks them under the settees. Some owners have had to replace the fuel
tanks (a tough job) and a few (including me) have had to replace the
water tanks (a relatively easy task, but cost me about a grand when it
was all said and done). The fuel tanks corrode from the outside when
the channel along the stem which the the anchjor locker drains through
cloggs with debris. My water tank suffered electorlysis from dropped
screws, coins, etc. becomming wedged between it and the bottom of the
bildge then being exposed to salt water There was also corrosion along
some of the welds.

No boat is the perfect boat for everybody, but if this is the kind of
boat you are looking for, they are truely wonderful examples of the type.

As far as single handing goes, it's no big deal.

Where are you located? If it's N. Calif., I'll be happy to take you out
for a daysail and let you see what we love about ours (we keep TJ at
Bodega Bay).


Murray W. Wires wrote:
I am seriously looking at the Tayana 37 as a cruiser to do some serious
coastal/offshore sailing and would appreciate any informed opinions on this
boat. Specifically, does this boat suffer from any fleet wide hull or
rigging problems I should be sure to have the surveyor examine closely.
Also, given the boat is suitably rigged, how would you rate the boat for
singlehanding. Thanks



--
Dan Best - (707) 431-1662, Healdsburg, CA 95448
B-2/75 1977-1979
Tayana 37 #192, "Tricia Jean"
http://rangerbest.home.comcast.net/TriciaJean.JPG

In general, the Tayana 37's are great boats with a very loyal following.
I've been told, but never had it verified that more SSCA members have
them than any other boat/model. Be sure to check out Sailnet's Tayana
listserver if you're really serious about this.

Things to look for:
The structural stainless steel (chain plates, etc.) is not up to the
same high standards as the rest of the boat. Make sure the surveyor
takes a good look at them.

Ta Yang (the yard that builds them) installs a black iron fuel tank
under the V-berth and a SS water tank in the bildge to increase ready
storage Bob Perry designed it with the fuel in the bildge and the water
tanks them under the settees. Some owners have had to replace the fuel
tanks (a tough job) and a few (including me) have had to replace the
water tanks (a relatively easy task, but cost me about a grand when it
was all said and done). The fuel tanks corrode from the outside when
the channel along the stem which the the anchjor locker drains through
cloggs with debris. My water tank suffered electorlysis from dropped
screws, coins, etc. becomming wedged between it and the bottom of the
bildge then being exposed to salt water There was also corrosion along
some of the welds.

No boat is the perfect boat for everybody, but if this is the kind of
boat you are looking for, they are truely wonderful examples of the type.

As far as single handing goes, it's no big deal.

Where are you located? If it's N. Calif., I'll be happy to take you out
for a daysail and let you see what we love about ours (we keep TJ at
Bodega Bay).


Murray W. Wires wrote:
I am seriously looking at the Tayana 37 as a cruiser to do some serious
coastal/offshore sailing and would appreciate any informed opinions on this
boat. Specifically, does this boat suffer from any fleet wide hull or
rigging problems I should be sure to have the surveyor examine closely.
Also, given the boat is suitably rigged, how would you rate the boat for
singlehanding. Thanks



--
Dan Best - (707) 431-1662, Healdsburg, CA 95448
B-2/75 1977-1979
Tayana 37 #192, "Tricia Jean"
http://rangerbest.home.comcast.net/TriciaJean.JPG

Dan has done good job of covering the Tayana.. A good friend of mine (ret.
Navy Capt.) has been cruising in a Tayana, with his wife in Panama for the
past 10+ years (I guess you could say that 10 year qualify their Tayana as
their home).

They have been very happy with it..

As far as single handing, I think it as well suited as any of that size and
rig.. It all depends on the skills and abilities of the skipper..

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Dan has done good job of covering the Tayana.. A good friend of mine (ret.
Navy Capt.) has been cruising in a Tayana, with his wife in Panama for the
past 10+ years (I guess you could say that 10 year qualify their Tayana as
their home).

They have been very happy with it..

As far as single handing, I think it as well suited as any of that size and
rig.. It all depends on the skills and abilities of the skipper..

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

I have a Tayana 37. Also look at CT37... same boat, just older.

Definitely a go-anywhere boat; but, somewhat slow by today's standards
(174 PHRF-NE).
Easy to single hand if most/all control lines are into the cockpit.
Built like Brick S--t house. Force 10+ is NO PROBLEM in a TY37.
The interiors are semi-custom --- no two are the same! Interior
craftsmanship is especially 'awsome'. Avoid "pulman" version if you
want to go passagemaking.

Cons..... (most easily correctable):

Most can have inferior standing rigging ---- Engage a separate "up the
mast" rigging survey. OEM Grand Deer shroud terminal T bolts are NOT
forged, are a screwed-together assembly subject to stress corrosion &
possible catastrophic failure. Replace wire running backstays with
lightweight modern hi-tech polymer,etc. to remove weight aloft.

Bowsprit - laminated with Teak (not a structural wood species) and an
'unknown asian mahogany' that is subject to rot. Must keep it sealed
or rot grows inside with little visible outer signs of rot.

Chainplate bases .... are structural boxes that are filled with wood
and covered with GRP + cloth. If water leaks into bases, the wood rots
& depletes the oxide coating on the stainless steel attachement bolts -
results in stress corrosion. Bolts are NOT easily removable .... and
have to be cut out. If attachment nuts have 'rust blooms' then suspect
weakened/corroded chainplate attachments.
Demand that surveyor remove the teak fascia to the chainplate bases and
inspect carefully. Consider to have agreement from owner, etc. of
torque test of chainplate base bolts ... load to ~50% of ultimate
tensile strength (torque) .... and see what breaks!

Teak decks - avoid if possible in older boats especially if the deck
is near the end of its lifespan. Underlayement of deck is core of
plywood squares - lots of rot potential. Hard to test for moisture %.
NOTHING beats a teak deck for non-skid ability.

Bent compression post - if rigging was not kept properly tuned, can
result in bent compression post. BTW - the compression post is
flanged/bolted to the mast - VERY good design. Some keel stepped masts
avaialble.

Black Iron bow tanks .... corrode from UNDERNEATH if limber holes are
not regularly cleaned of anchor mud, etc. If tank leaks, just cut off
top, lay-up a fiberglass/epoxy liner. Use an independent loop
recirc./polishing system (with water knockout pot) drawing from the
very bottom of the iron tank to retard 'internal' problems.
Actually I LIKE the bow tank --- cant put heavy stuff that you never
use in there. Only take on what fuel that you NEED ... automatic light
ends!

If boat has Barient winches ****with 'push button' drum releases****
plan to replace them immediately ... dangerous - the drum can fly off
when least expected. Have the scars to prove it, glad I wasnt UP the
mast when it blew!

Carefully check bowsprit cranse collar for fatigue/embrittlement (micro
cracks) --- poor design of collar promotes rapid fatigue of collar.
Have rigger or surveyor do dye penetrant exam of collar .... easy to
rebuild/fabricate.

Boat is 'top heavy' but provides a long roll period in a heavy seaway.
Any weight that you can remove/relocate from the 'ends' or up the mast
will vastly improve performance --- or she can hobbyhorse if 'end
heavy'.

Acres of exterior teak - Consider one the 'modern' 2 part
urethane/acrylic systems so you only need brief yearly maintenance. I
use Honey Teak - into 5 years & still looks good with little
maintenance. Expensive at first cost .... but save labor and recoat
costs later on. HT or "Smith&Co 5yr. Clear" are probably cheapest in
the long term. Looks like REAL varnish!

General ---
I LOVE my TY37. (My wife made me buy it) The more I sail her the MORE
I LIKE her. Every damn time I go through heavy weather I like it even
more. Stays on a track like it was on rails (does take some distance
to turn/tack). You must Learn to 'back&fill' or she will back up like
a drunken elephant.
For light wind sailing needs: smoothe and faired bottom, feathering
prop, good sails, especially an Asymmetrical Spinnaker + sock +
retractable pole.
I PREFER a boom on the staysail (some think it dangerous) but a boom
with a vang will permit precise sail shape on ALL sailing angles. When
lazy, just fly the self tacking staysail and main. Consider a new set
of composite sails --- the huge genoa (130) will stretch/deform
significantly if dacron (pointing ability). If original LAM sails ....
throw in trash can.

Best place to buy a Tayana --- go to Sailnet.com Join Tayana (TOG)
owners group also join Sailnet Tayana Email discussion group .... as
"most good ones" are snatched up by 'prospective' TOG members. TOG
www.tognews.com is 'relocating to http://www.tayanaowners.org/ but
site is just starting up. If you are a 'prospective' member you will be
notified of local Tayana Rendevous which you can join and come look and
kick a few tires .... thats how I got to know the boat before I bought
mine. 'Top Notch' TY37s only last a few days/weeks when up for sale.
Go to Sailnet email archives and take a look at several YEARS of
discussion of problems, delights (mostly delights), etc.

Good luck. Hope this helps.
;-)








In article , Murray W.
Wires wrote:

I am seriously looking at the Tayana 37 as a cruiser to do some serious
coastal/offshore sailing and would appreciate any informed opinions on this
boat. Specifically, does this boat suffer from any fleet wide hull or
rigging problems I should be sure to have the surveyor examine closely.
Also, given the boat is suitably rigged, how would you rate the boat for
singlehanding. Thanks

I have a Tayana 37. Also look at CT37... same boat, just older.

Definitely a go-anywhere boat; but, somewhat slow by today's standards
(174 PHRF-NE).
Easy to single hand if most/all control lines are into the cockpit.
Built like Brick S--t house. Force 10+ is NO PROBLEM in a TY37.
The interiors are semi-custom --- no two are the same! Interior
craftsmanship is especially 'awsome'. Avoid "pulman" version if you
want to go passagemaking.

Cons..... (most easily correctable):

Most can have inferior standing rigging ---- Engage a separate "up the
mast" rigging survey. OEM Grand Deer shroud terminal T bolts are NOT
forged, are a screwed-together assembly subject to stress corrosion &
possible catastrophic failure. Replace wire running backstays with
lightweight modern hi-tech polymer,etc. to remove weight aloft.

Bowsprit - laminated with Teak (not a structural wood species) and an
'unknown asian mahogany' that is subject to rot. Must keep it sealed
or rot grows inside with little visible outer signs of rot.

Chainplate bases .... are structural boxes that are filled with wood
and covered with GRP + cloth. If water leaks into bases, the wood rots
& depletes the oxide coating on the stainless steel attachement bolts -
results in stress corrosion. Bolts are NOT easily removable .... and
have to be cut out. If attachment nuts have 'rust blooms' then suspect
weakened/corroded chainplate attachments.
Demand that surveyor remove the teak fascia to the chainplate bases and
inspect carefully. Consider to have agreement from owner, etc. of
torque test of chainplate base bolts ... load to ~50% of ultimate
tensile strength (torque) .... and see what breaks!

Teak decks - avoid if possible in older boats especially if the deck
is near the end of its lifespan. Underlayement of deck is core of
plywood squares - lots of rot potential. Hard to test for moisture %.
NOTHING beats a teak deck for non-skid ability.

Bent compression post - if rigging was not kept properly tuned, can
result in bent compression post. BTW - the compression post is
flanged/bolted to the mast - VERY good design. Some keel stepped masts
avaialble.

Black Iron bow tanks .... corrode from UNDERNEATH if limber holes are
not regularly cleaned of anchor mud, etc. If tank leaks, just cut off
top, lay-up a fiberglass/epoxy liner. Use an independent loop
recirc./polishing system (with water knockout pot) drawing from the
very bottom of the iron tank to retard 'internal' problems.
Actually I LIKE the bow tank --- cant put heavy stuff that you never
use in there. Only take on what fuel that you NEED ... automatic light
ends!

If boat has Barient winches ****with 'push button' drum releases****
plan to replace them immediately ... dangerous - the drum can fly off
when least expected. Have the scars to prove it, glad I wasnt UP the
mast when it blew!

Carefully check bowsprit cranse collar for fatigue/embrittlement (micro
cracks) --- poor design of collar promotes rapid fatigue of collar.
Have rigger or surveyor do dye penetrant exam of collar .... easy to
rebuild/fabricate.

Boat is 'top heavy' but provides a long roll period in a heavy seaway.
Any weight that you can remove/relocate from the 'ends' or up the mast
will vastly improve performance --- or she can hobbyhorse if 'end
heavy'.

Acres of exterior teak - Consider one the 'modern' 2 part
urethane/acrylic systems so you only need brief yearly maintenance. I
use Honey Teak - into 5 years & still looks good with little
maintenance. Expensive at first cost .... but save labor and recoat
costs later on. HT or "Smith&Co 5yr. Clear" are probably cheapest in
the long term. Looks like REAL varnish!

General ---
I LOVE my TY37. (My wife made me buy it) The more I sail her the MORE
I LIKE her. Every damn time I go through heavy weather I like it even
more. Stays on a track like it was on rails (does take some distance
to turn/tack). You must Learn to 'back&fill' or she will back up like
a drunken elephant.
For light wind sailing needs: smoothe and faired bottom, feathering
prop, good sails, especially an Asymmetrical Spinnaker + sock +
retractable pole.
I PREFER a boom on the staysail (some think it dangerous) but a boom
with a vang will permit precise sail shape on ALL sailing angles. When
lazy, just fly the self tacking staysail and main. Consider a new set
of composite sails --- the huge genoa (130) will stretch/deform
significantly if dacron (pointing ability). If original LAM sails ....
throw in trash can.

Best place to buy a Tayana --- go to Sailnet.com Join Tayana (TOG)
owners group also join Sailnet Tayana Email discussion group .... as
"most good ones" are snatched up by 'prospective' TOG members. TOG
www.tognews.com is 'relocating to http://www.tayanaowners.org/ but
site is just starting up. If you are a 'prospective' member you will be
notified of local Tayana Rendevous which you can join and come look and
kick a few tires .... thats how I got to know the boat before I bought
mine. 'Top Notch' TY37s only last a few days/weeks when up for sale.
Go to Sailnet email archives and take a look at several YEARS of
discussion of problems, delights (mostly delights), etc.

Good luck. Hope this helps.
;-)








In article , Murray W.
Wires wrote:

I am seriously looking at the Tayana 37 as a cruiser to do some serious
coastal/offshore sailing and would appreciate any informed opinions on this
boat. Specifically, does this boat suffer from any fleet wide hull or
rigging problems I should be sure to have the surveyor examine closely.
Also, given the boat is suitably rigged, how would you rate the boat for
singlehanding. Thanks