I have a Tayana 37. Also look at CT37... same boat, just older.

Definitely a go-anywhere boat; but, somewhat slow by today's standards
(174 PHRF-NE).
Easy to single hand if most/all control lines are into the cockpit.
Built like Brick S--t house. Force 10+ is NO PROBLEM in a TY37.
The interiors are semi-custom --- no two are the same! Interior
craftsmanship is especially 'awsome'. Avoid "pulman" version if you
want to go passagemaking.

Cons..... (most easily correctable):

Most can have inferior standing rigging ---- Engage a separate "up the
mast" rigging survey. OEM Grand Deer shroud terminal T bolts are NOT
forged, are a screwed-together assembly subject to stress corrosion &
possible catastrophic failure. Replace wire running backstays with
lightweight modern hi-tech polymer,etc. to remove weight aloft.

Bowsprit - laminated with Teak (not a structural wood species) and an
'unknown asian mahogany' that is subject to rot. Must keep it sealed
or rot grows inside with little visible outer signs of rot.

Chainplate bases .... are structural boxes that are filled with wood
and covered with GRP + cloth. If water leaks into bases, the wood rots
& depletes the oxide coating on the stainless steel attachement bolts -
results in stress corrosion. Bolts are NOT easily removable .... and
have to be cut out. If attachment nuts have 'rust blooms' then suspect
weakened/corroded chainplate attachments.
Demand that surveyor remove the teak fascia to the chainplate bases and
inspect carefully. Consider to have agreement from owner, etc. of
torque test of chainplate base bolts ... load to ~50% of ultimate
tensile strength (torque) .... and see what breaks!

Teak decks - avoid if possible in older boats especially if the deck
is near the end of its lifespan. Underlayement of deck is core of
plywood squares - lots of rot potential. Hard to test for moisture %.
NOTHING beats a teak deck for non-skid ability.

Bent compression post - if rigging was not kept properly tuned, can
result in bent compression post. BTW - the compression post is
flanged/bolted to the mast - VERY good design. Some keel stepped masts
avaialble.

Black Iron bow tanks .... corrode from UNDERNEATH if limber holes are
not regularly cleaned of anchor mud, etc. If tank leaks, just cut off
top, lay-up a fiberglass/epoxy liner. Use an independent loop
recirc./polishing system (with water knockout pot) drawing from the
very bottom of the iron tank to retard 'internal' problems.
Actually I LIKE the bow tank --- cant put heavy stuff that you never
use in there. Only take on what fuel that you NEED ... automatic light
ends!

If boat has Barient winches ****with 'push button' drum releases****
plan to replace them immediately ... dangerous - the drum can fly off
when least expected. Have the scars to prove it, glad I wasnt UP the
mast when it blew!

Carefully check bowsprit cranse collar for fatigue/embrittlement (micro
cracks) --- poor design of collar promotes rapid fatigue of collar.
Have rigger or surveyor do dye penetrant exam of collar .... easy to
rebuild/fabricate.

Boat is 'top heavy' but provides a long roll period in a heavy seaway.
Any weight that you can remove/relocate from the 'ends' or up the mast
will vastly improve performance --- or she can hobbyhorse if 'end
heavy'.

Acres of exterior teak - Consider one the 'modern' 2 part
urethane/acrylic systems so you only need brief yearly maintenance. I
use Honey Teak - into 5 years & still looks good with little
maintenance. Expensive at first cost .... but save labor and recoat
costs later on. HT or "Smith&Co 5yr. Clear" are probably cheapest in
the long term. Looks like REAL varnish!

General ---
I LOVE my TY37. (My wife made me buy it) The more I sail her the MORE
I LIKE her. Every damn time I go through heavy weather I like it even
more. Stays on a track like it was on rails (does take some distance
to turn/tack). You must Learn to 'back&fill' or she will back up like
a drunken elephant.
For light wind sailing needs: smoothe and faired bottom, feathering
prop, good sails, especially an Asymmetrical Spinnaker + sock +
retractable pole.
I PREFER a boom on the staysail (some think it dangerous) but a boom
with a vang will permit precise sail shape on ALL sailing angles. When
lazy, just fly the self tacking staysail and main. Consider a new set
of composite sails --- the huge genoa (130) will stretch/deform
significantly if dacron (pointing ability). If original LAM sails ....
throw in trash can.

Best place to buy a Tayana --- go to Sailnet.com Join Tayana (TOG)
owners group also join Sailnet Tayana Email discussion group .... as
"most good ones" are snatched up by 'prospective' TOG members. TOG
www.tognews.com is 'relocating to http://www.tayanaowners.org/ but
site is just starting up. If you are a 'prospective' member you will be
notified of local Tayana Rendevous which you can join and come look and
kick a few tires .... thats how I got to know the boat before I bought
mine. 'Top Notch' TY37s only last a few days/weeks when up for sale.
Go to Sailnet email archives and take a look at several YEARS of
discussion of problems, delights (mostly delights), etc.

Good luck. Hope this helps.
;-)








In article , Murray W.
Wires wrote:

I am seriously looking at the Tayana 37 as a cruiser to do some serious
coastal/offshore sailing and would appreciate any informed opinions on this
boat. Specifically, does this boat suffer from any fleet wide hull or
rigging problems I should be sure to have the surveyor examine closely.
Also, given the boat is suitably rigged, how would you rate the boat for
singlehanding. Thanks