If you don't want to pay the price for the connectors with the self adhisive
sleeves, then use good quality marine connectors and purchase, sperately,
the heavy duty adhesive shrink sleeving..

I'm really sold on the heaver self adhesive shrink sleeving.. I get mine
from Waytek Inc, http://www.waytekwire.com/ Good prices but they have a
minimum order of $25..

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Steve wrote:

Rick, you don't mention the deep submersibles method of routing nearly all
electrical cables inside of tygon tubing and fittings and filled with
mineral oil.

We only used oil-filled cables for temporary of field installed systems
that didn't rate a shop made cable. We would save the plug ends and a
foot or two of wire from old cables for that purpose. We used oil-filled
j-boxes externally and ran conductors through the same type of clear
plastic tubing you see in boat stores and filled the entire run with oil.

We had a shop back in the world where we could build and vacuum pot our
own cables for newbuilds. Some of our standard cables were manufactured
by a specialty cable shop. A lot of smaller stuff just used off the
shelf underwater connectors made for the commercial (oil field)and
military market.

Rick

Steve wrote:

Rick, you don't mention the deep submersibles method of routing nearly all
electrical cables inside of tygon tubing and fittings and filled with
mineral oil.

We only used oil-filled cables for temporary of field installed systems
that didn't rate a shop made cable. We would save the plug ends and a
foot or two of wire from old cables for that purpose. We used oil-filled
j-boxes externally and ran conductors through the same type of clear
plastic tubing you see in boat stores and filled the entire run with oil.

We had a shop back in the world where we could build and vacuum pot our
own cables for newbuilds. Some of our standard cables were manufactured
by a specialty cable shop. A lot of smaller stuff just used off the
shelf underwater connectors made for the commercial (oil field)and
military market.

Rick

Terry wrote:

solomio wrote:


Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -



I have to rewire our mast (30 ft Al. Westerly Tiger) and also
completely redo the connection of the mast wiring into the boat.
About five wires and a VHF coax. All 'running' and the anchor
lights will now be on the mast.
A repair to our boat on behalf of the previous owner, following a
dismasting, by a presumably competent person, mounted two three
pin connector sockets flat on the fibreglass deck adjacent to the
bottom of the mast with wires through. Wires coming from the mast
plugged into those sockets.
Water got into the sockets and then seeped down into the wooden
deck pad inside the fibreglass deck under the mast step. Water
froze and mast step heaved and cracked deck. A mess!

An alternate that some Tanzers have used and seem to like: a "J" tube
coming through the deck near the mast (and protected by it). Wires can
be long enough to go to terminal strips. Some boats have no break in
the coax between the antenna and VHF -- the plug fits through the tube.
The tube can be heavily caulked, the wires have 3 less places corrosion
can form; Lots of benefits and few drawbacks or drips.

(I went a different route, but am thinking of installing a tube for this
spring.)

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Terry wrote:

solomio wrote:


Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -



I have to rewire our mast (30 ft Al. Westerly Tiger) and also
completely redo the connection of the mast wiring into the boat.
About five wires and a VHF coax. All 'running' and the anchor
lights will now be on the mast.
A repair to our boat on behalf of the previous owner, following a
dismasting, by a presumably competent person, mounted two three
pin connector sockets flat on the fibreglass deck adjacent to the
bottom of the mast with wires through. Wires coming from the mast
plugged into those sockets.
Water got into the sockets and then seeped down into the wooden
deck pad inside the fibreglass deck under the mast step. Water
froze and mast step heaved and cracked deck. A mess!

An alternate that some Tanzers have used and seem to like: a "J" tube
coming through the deck near the mast (and protected by it). Wires can
be long enough to go to terminal strips. Some boats have no break in
the coax between the antenna and VHF -- the plug fits through the tube.
The tube can be heavily caulked, the wires have 3 less places corrosion
can form; Lots of benefits and few drawbacks or drips.

(I went a different route, but am thinking of installing a tube for this
spring.)

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Rick,
Yes it can me messy, but I just wipe it with paper towels...the shop type.
Not that much is actually put on, just enough to replace air gaps when the
heat shrink, shrinks. This reduces the cure time as does the heat gun
shrinking the tubing. The stuff I got from the line men 30 years ago had a
strong acetic acid smell then, as it does now. I would not use it on a
connection needed for deep water, high pressure, or for anything needed to
last longer than a couple of years...tops. I use it on temporary
connections that I want to seal but still be able to cut open and disconnect
later. Remember I am not talking gobs and gobs of RTV, only a dab or two.
Forgive the non-tech measurements, but DIYrs will understand me...I think.

Incidentally, I just finished some life testing on a new series of coffee
pots, which I cleaned daily with 4% acetic acid (white vinegar). After the
equivalent of several years of accelerated testing, I opened the units and
checked. All my connectors and control panel enclosures which were sealed
with the RTV were fine, but the hose clamps were badly corroded from vinegar
steam leakage. I am not seeing any problems with the RTV corroding
electrical connectors or electronics boards on any of this testing or the
other testing which I have done.

I think I will set up some life testing in the lab and see if I can create a
corrosion problem with the RTV. I will let you all know what I find out.
Greg Luckett

"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

I shrink mine from the middle out to squeeze out excess RTV.

That is incredibly messy isn't it? The adhesive filled heat shrink that
Steve mentioned is a far better alternative. The adhesive will bond to
most wire jackets while RTV just won't stick well enough to depend on.
The heat shrink is self contained, no messy tubes, no rags, no drips or
blobs of excess goo ...

Rick





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Rick,
Yes it can me messy, but I just wipe it with paper towels...the shop type.
Not that much is actually put on, just enough to replace air gaps when the
heat shrink, shrinks. This reduces the cure time as does the heat gun
shrinking the tubing. The stuff I got from the line men 30 years ago had a
strong acetic acid smell then, as it does now. I would not use it on a
connection needed for deep water, high pressure, or for anything needed to
last longer than a couple of years...tops. I use it on temporary
connections that I want to seal but still be able to cut open and disconnect
later. Remember I am not talking gobs and gobs of RTV, only a dab or two.
Forgive the non-tech measurements, but DIYrs will understand me...I think.

Incidentally, I just finished some life testing on a new series of coffee
pots, which I cleaned daily with 4% acetic acid (white vinegar). After the
equivalent of several years of accelerated testing, I opened the units and
checked. All my connectors and control panel enclosures which were sealed
with the RTV were fine, but the hose clamps were badly corroded from vinegar
steam leakage. I am not seeing any problems with the RTV corroding
electrical connectors or electronics boards on any of this testing or the
other testing which I have done.

I think I will set up some life testing in the lab and see if I can create a
corrosion problem with the RTV. I will let you all know what I find out.
Greg Luckett

"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

I shrink mine from the middle out to squeeze out excess RTV.

That is incredibly messy isn't it? The adhesive filled heat shrink that
Steve mentioned is a far better alternative. The adhesive will bond to
most wire jackets while RTV just won't stick well enough to depend on.
The heat shrink is self contained, no messy tubes, no rags, no drips or
blobs of excess goo ...

Rick





-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

Greg wrote:

I think I will set up some life testing in the lab and see if I can create a
corrosion problem with the RTV. I will let you all know what I find out.

I bet you will have no problems with it. For years it has been a
standard to avoid the use of the stuff on or near electronic components
and boards but I have never seen any problems associated with it in the
absence of liquid water or very high humidity.

I will admit there are places where the stuff is very handy and useful
but years of seeing it fail in a marine environment has made me very
cautious about where and how I use it. Personally, I do not have a
single tube of the stuff on my boat and it is a fairly large and
complex old girl with a lot of external wiring with all the stuffing
boxes and penetrators that entails.

There are just too many better products available.

Rick

Greg wrote:

I think I will set up some life testing in the lab and see if I can create a
corrosion problem with the RTV. I will let you all know what I find out.

I bet you will have no problems with it. For years it has been a
standard to avoid the use of the stuff on or near electronic components
and boards but I have never seen any problems associated with it in the
absence of liquid water or very high humidity.

I will admit there are places where the stuff is very handy and useful
but years of seeing it fail in a marine environment has made me very
cautious about where and how I use it. Personally, I do not have a
single tube of the stuff on my boat and it is a fairly large and
complex old girl with a lot of external wiring with all the stuffing
boxes and penetrators that entails.

There are just too many better products available.

Rick

On Mon, 1 Dec 2003 18:23:49 -0500, "Leanne" wrote:

For electrical connection I stand by my earlier recommendations
to purchase
the connectors that have a heavy adhesive shrink sleeving..
They are
expensive but for mast wiring the OP is only going to need a
half dozen.

Has anyone tried Liquid Tape? We have used it in Sat TV work and
it has
worked well in painting the connections and connectors.

I've used it for all sorts of jobs around the boat. Works great.

Steve