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#1
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Greg wrote:
One other trick is to coat the connector with RTV, then slide the heat shrink over it and apply the heat. The shrinking heatshrink pushes out the excess RTV and makes a very water tight seal after it cures. Good luck with it, Any seal that relies on RTV will take more than luck. RTV will fail to seal and water will wick into the connection and destroy it. It is as predictable as sunrise. There are many off the shelf connectors and sealing materials for that application and nearly all of them are far superior to any of the silicone adhesive sealants so often misused by the DIY'er. Rick |
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#2
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solomio wrote:
Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire? I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny cheap and available - I have to rewire our mast (30 ft Al. Westerly Tiger) and also completely redo the connection of the mast wiring into the boat. About five wires and a VHF coax. All 'running' and the anchor lights will now be on the mast. A repair to our boat on behalf of the previous owner, following a dismasting, by a presumably competent person, mounted two three pin connector sockets flat on the fibreglass deck adjacent to the bottom of the mast with wires through. Wires coming from the mast plugged into those sockets. Water got into the sockets and then seeped down into the wooden deck pad inside the fibreglass deck under the mast step. Water froze and mast step heaved and cracked deck. A mess! I intend to avoid any connectors at all by running wires (once per season) through well caulked hole/s in the deck in an area where there is no wood. These wires would be terminated on a terminal strip in the toilet/head compartment below. Alternatively to bring wires up through the deck (through a well caulked hole as above) and mount or strap plugs/socket/connectors to the side of the mast above deck level. Also to have spare connectors etc. to replace if corrosion occurs. No 'connectors' as such up on the mast itself, wires directly to each lamp socket. Any suggestions welcomed. But if sockets what type? Terry. |
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#3
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Terry wrote:
solomio wrote: Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire? I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny cheap and available - I have to rewire our mast (30 ft Al. Westerly Tiger) and also completely redo the connection of the mast wiring into the boat. About five wires and a VHF coax. All 'running' and the anchor lights will now be on the mast. A repair to our boat on behalf of the previous owner, following a dismasting, by a presumably competent person, mounted two three pin connector sockets flat on the fibreglass deck adjacent to the bottom of the mast with wires through. Wires coming from the mast plugged into those sockets. Water got into the sockets and then seeped down into the wooden deck pad inside the fibreglass deck under the mast step. Water froze and mast step heaved and cracked deck. A mess! An alternate that some Tanzers have used and seem to like: a "J" tube coming through the deck near the mast (and protected by it). Wires can be long enough to go to terminal strips. Some boats have no break in the coax between the antenna and VHF -- the plug fits through the tube. The tube can be heavily caulked, the wires have 3 less places corrosion can form; Lots of benefits and few drawbacks or drips. (I went a different route, but am thinking of installing a tube for this spring.) -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
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#4
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Terry wrote:
solomio wrote: Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire? I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny cheap and available - I have to rewire our mast (30 ft Al. Westerly Tiger) and also completely redo the connection of the mast wiring into the boat. About five wires and a VHF coax. All 'running' and the anchor lights will now be on the mast. A repair to our boat on behalf of the previous owner, following a dismasting, by a presumably competent person, mounted two three pin connector sockets flat on the fibreglass deck adjacent to the bottom of the mast with wires through. Wires coming from the mast plugged into those sockets. Water got into the sockets and then seeped down into the wooden deck pad inside the fibreglass deck under the mast step. Water froze and mast step heaved and cracked deck. A mess! An alternate that some Tanzers have used and seem to like: a "J" tube coming through the deck near the mast (and protected by it). Wires can be long enough to go to terminal strips. Some boats have no break in the coax between the antenna and VHF -- the plug fits through the tube. The tube can be heavily caulked, the wires have 3 less places corrosion can form; Lots of benefits and few drawbacks or drips. (I went a different route, but am thinking of installing a tube for this spring.) -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
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#5
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I recommend you purchase some good marine connectors. Their a little more
expensive but certainly much more reliable for something that is "up the mast".. Get the kind that have a shrink sleeve over the outside. You just crimp them on using a good crimping tool. Then you heat shrink the sleeve down onto the finished connection. The real good connectors have a adhesive inside that seals the job. The moto here is "don't go on the cheap" with anything up the mast. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
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#6
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solomio wrote in message . ..
Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire? I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny cheap and available - Look at "yachtbits.co.uk", they have some aterproof connectors that are "Lloys' approved". I've used them for my NASA masthead windmeter and they've given me very good results. john |
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#7
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solomio,
I have found that some of the "automotive" inline connectors work as well as the "marine" grade ones do. What sort of connnectors are you seeking? Ones which can easily be disconnected occasionaly, or permanent connection? If permanent, I suggest soldering the butt connectors, then heat shrink. I have also used heat shrink on connectors which are only disconnected once or twice a year. One other trick is to coat the connector with RTV, then slide the heat shrink over it and apply the heat. The shrinking heatshrink pushes out the excess RTV and makes a very water tight seal after it cures. Good luck with it, Greg Luckett "solomio" wrote in message ... Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire? I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny cheap and available - -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
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#8
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solomio wrote:
Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire? I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny cheap and available - I have to rewire our mast (30 ft Al. Westerly Tiger) and also completely redo the connection of the mast wiring into the boat. About five wires and a VHF coax. All 'running' and the anchor lights will now be on the mast. A repair to our boat on behalf of the previous owner, following a dismasting, by a presumably competent person, mounted two three pin connector sockets flat on the fibreglass deck adjacent to the bottom of the mast with wires through. Wires coming from the mast plugged into those sockets. Water got into the sockets and then seeped down into the wooden deck pad inside the fibreglass deck under the mast step. Water froze and mast step heaved and cracked deck. A mess! I intend to avoid any connectors at all by running wires (once per season) through well caulked hole/s in the deck in an area where there is no wood. These wires would be terminated on a terminal strip in the toilet/head compartment below. Alternatively to bring wires up through the deck (through a well caulked hole as above) and mount or strap plugs/socket/connectors to the side of the mast above deck level. Also to have spare connectors etc. to replace if corrosion occurs. No 'connectors' as such up on the mast itself, wires directly to each lamp socket. Any suggestions welcomed. But if sockets what type? Terry. |
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#9
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solomio wrote in message . ..
Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire? I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny cheap and available - Look at "yachtbits.co.uk", they have some aterproof connectors that are "Lloys' approved". I've used them for my NASA masthead windmeter and they've given me very good results. john |
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