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#21
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Wed, 11 Jul 2007 11:33:12 +0700, Bruce
wrote: Re these 12 VDC continuous duty contractors available from the auto parts with the capacity to carry starting amperage. Can you elaborate a bit as I could sure use some of these to wire my power up/down anchor winch. The winch manufacturers sell special contactor packages for this purpose.. I expect that these things are mechanically and/or electrically interlocked so that they will not put a short across the battery if you try to raise and lower the anchor simultaneously. Such a situation _is_ possible if you aren't careful how you wire up individual contactors. -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
#22
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Bruce wrote in
: If you can buy high amperage, continuous duty 12 VDC relays in the auto shop please tell me what they are so I can get 'em too. These Stancor continuous duty relays are available in our NAPA and AutoZone stores, here. Is 80A continuous, 400A intermittent "high amperage" enough? It'll crank a diesel without even getting warm. Stancor Series 70's, about $30. Larry -- While in Mexico, I didn't have to press 1 for Spanish. While in Iran, I didn't have to press 1 for Farsi, either. It just isn't fair. |
#23
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Bruce wrote in
: I also answered another, much shorter, post with a plea for more information which you have included in this post. Thanks for the info as I am in the process of rewiring a 35 ft. power boat and wanted to use relays for stitching with remote control switches and was having trouble finding reasonably priced continuous duty contactors. Make the control switches little mini-toggles, the ones with the little bathandle in silver. Tell the customer you think those tiny switches will handle all that current...(c; The look on their face is PRICELESS... In a power boat, with the alternators running, the contactors' power drain is of no consequence. In a sailboat without our monstrous 6V beasts on Lionheart, their 1/2 to 1A drain might be more of an issue. The convenience of remote control without running heavy long lines in confined spaces is well worth the effort and subsequent small power usage...even continuous duty. Larry -- While in Mexico, I didn't have to press 1 for Spanish. While in Iran, I didn't have to press 1 for Farsi, either. It just isn't fair. |
#24
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Peter Bennett wrote in
news.com: The winch manufacturers sell special contactor packages for this purpose.. I expect that these things are mechanically and/or electrically interlocked so that they will not put a short across the battery if you try to raise and lower the anchor simultaneously. Such a situation _is_ possible if you aren't careful how you wire up individual contactors. I use a center off on-off-on toggle switch, myself. You can't press up and down simultaneously that way.... Larry -- While in Mexico, I didn't have to press 1 for Spanish. While in Iran, I didn't have to press 1 for Farsi, either. It just isn't fair. |
#25
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Thu, 12 Jul 2007 05:46:23 +0000, Larry wrote:
Peter Bennett wrote in rnews.com: The winch manufacturers sell special contactor packages for this purpose.. I expect that these things are mechanically and/or electrically interlocked so that they will not put a short across the battery if you try to raise and lower the anchor simultaneously. Such a situation _is_ possible if you aren't careful how you wire up individual contactors. I use a center off on-off-on toggle switch, myself. You can't press up and down simultaneously that way.... Larry True - and safe if that one switch is the only control. However, on many power boats, there will be winch controls at the lower helm and on the flybridge, and foot switches on the foredeck - in that case, a safety interlock against incorrect operation is required. -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
#26
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Thu, 12 Jul 2007 18:53:23 -0700, Peter Bennett
wrote: On Thu, 12 Jul 2007 05:46:23 +0000, Larry wrote: Peter Bennett wrote in ernews.com: The winch manufacturers sell special contactor packages for this purpose.. I expect that these things are mechanically and/or electrically interlocked so that they will not put a short across the battery if you try to raise and lower the anchor simultaneously. Such a situation _is_ possible if you aren't careful how you wire up individual contactors. I use a center off on-off-on toggle switch, myself. You can't press up and down simultaneously that way.... Larry True - and safe if that one switch is the only control. However, on many power boats, there will be winch controls at the lower helm and on the flybridge, and foot switches on the foredeck - in that case, a safety interlock against incorrect operation is required. I think I'd be more likely to rephrase your statement "there will be winch controls at the lower helm and on the flybridge, and foot switches on the foredeck - in that case if you sail with a bunch of fools and idiots a safety interlock against incorrect operation is required." Personally I don't go to sea with these kind of people. Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#27
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 12:45:44 +0700, Bruce
wrote: The other way to do it is with continuous-duty 12VDC and 115VAC contactors available from auto parts places more cheaply. These look just like a starter relay, except they have coils made for continuous duty (always on). Larry, Re these 12 VDC continuous duty contactors available from the auto parts with the capacity to carry starting amperage. Can you elaborate a bit as I could sure use some of these.. .... Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) Here's a cheesy sketch of a 3 position switch capable of driving a winch etc in either direction using beefy contactors such as the Stancor 2 pole make contactors.... No current taken in the OFF position. http://www.flickr.com/photos/brian_w/803117449/ Here's the Stancor URL that Larry mentioned... http://www.stancor.com/jsp/relays.jsp Brian Whatcott Altus OK |
#28
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 02:15:53 GMT, Brian Whatcott
wrote: On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 12:45:44 +0700, Bruce wrote: The other way to do it is with continuous-duty 12VDC and 115VAC contactors available from auto parts places more cheaply. These look just like a starter relay, except they have coils made for continuous duty (always on). Larry, Re these 12 VDC continuous duty contactors available from the auto parts with the capacity to carry starting amperage. Can you elaborate a bit as I could sure use some of these.. ... Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) Here's a cheesy sketch of a 3 position switch capable of driving a winch etc in either direction using beefy contactors such as the Stancor 2 pole make contactors.... No current taken in the OFF position. http://www.flickr.com/photos/brian_w/803117449/ Here's the Stancor URL that Larry mentioned... http://www.stancor.com/jsp/relays.jsp Brian Whatcott Altus OK Thanks for info. Now I've got to start visiting the auto shops to see what I can find. One good thing about Thailand is that they import from about everywhere. For example I can but US electrical receptacles, junction boxes and so on although most houses use either German or Japanese standard (or local "no standard") stuff. Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#29
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Brian Whatcott wrote in
: http://www.flickr.com/photos/brian_w/803117449/ And...if you want multiple stations to control the winch, you simply put one rotary switch marked for each station in the common terminal of each station's switch so that only ONE station will have power to this common contact at a time. Only one station will work at a time with no danger of one keying the up and the other keying the down simultaneously....better control for the winch operator. Safety-wise, this would also mean that if the rotary switch were pointing at the footswitch on the bow, some STUPID couldn't wind your fingers into the winch by pressing UP at the station of the helm. It would be even safer if the rotary switch were a KEYSWITCH and you took the key with you on your way to the bow to operate the winch so STUPID couldn't turn the switch to his/her station. That would be the ultimate control....(c; They're YOUR fingers.....right?? Larry -- While in Mexico, I didn't have to press 1 for Spanish. While in Iran, I didn't have to press 1 for Farsi, either. It just isn't fair. |
#30
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Bruce wrote in
: (or local "no standard") stuff. Is that like the Middle East with the mercury vapor arc lights hanging on wires out of the ceiling or wall?...(c; Is the TV power cord connected to 240VAC by wrapping the wires around the two pins and holding them in place with masking tape? My whole apartment building, 8 apartments, in Iran was wired to ONE ceramic fuse with all 8 apartments in parallel. The fuse went through one temporary construction electric meter covered in white paint which was connected to the main power bus for our street by an orange #14 drop cord running up the side of the building to a coat hanger wire which held it up above the traffic. At the pole, the drop cord was tied around the concrete pole through a hole and the bare wires were wrapped around the street conductors for a "few turns" so the wind wouldn't blow them off and "something" would make contact. Ever so often, too many electrical loads would blow the fuse. To eliminate the problem, our crack Iranian electrician put a 100 rial coin behind the blown fuse to stop it from blowing. After that, he replaced the orange drop cord, which we simply melted or caught fire several times making toast for breakfast. An electrical short in one apartment's bedroom outlet (only one in each bedroom, of course), caused an electrical explosion, completely destroying that whole apartment's SINGLE CIRCUIT electrical system right down to the fuse base in the basement....of course, melting the orange drop cord, yet again, putting the whole building in the dark about 10PM.... Living in Tehran was always exciting and it had nothing to do with terrorist plots or Islamic Jihads. Seeing these same Iranians operating a nuclear reactor to make plutonium must put terror in the hearts of every Iranian within the Zone of Destruction, especially downwind, never knowing WHEN, not if, it was going to go like Chernobyl. The people in the neighborhood are the ones in danger, not anyone 500 miles away...and certainly not 8000 miles away. Larry -- Try operating your whole neighborhood on a single orange drop cord with no fuse next weekend and see if you don't have similar results! You've gotta watch an Iranian electrician holding onto the grounded cement pole while wrapping the drop cord wires around the hot street conductors, in the dark, at 10AM. NONE of them ever got "old". Nothing beats the sound of your swamp cooler powering up as he gets that big arc from all the swamp coolers starting at once on the roof....(c; |
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