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Default Anything wrong with this battery wiring setup?

On Wed, 11 Jul 2007 11:33:12 +0700, Bruce
wrote:


Re these 12 VDC continuous duty contractors available from the auto
parts with the capacity to carry starting amperage. Can you elaborate
a bit as I could sure use some of these to wire my power up/down
anchor winch.


The winch manufacturers sell special contactor packages for this
purpose.. I expect that these things are mechanically and/or
electrically interlocked so that they will not put a short across the
battery if you try to raise and lower the anchor simultaneously. Such
a situation _is_ possible if you aren't careful how you wire up
individual contactors.



--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca
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Default Anything wrong with this battery wiring setup?

Bruce wrote in
:

If you can buy high amperage, continuous duty 12 VDC relays in the
auto shop please tell me what they are so I can get 'em too.



These Stancor continuous duty relays are available in our NAPA and AutoZone
stores, here. Is 80A continuous, 400A intermittent "high amperage" enough?
It'll crank a diesel without even getting warm. Stancor Series 70's, about
$30.

Larry
--
While in Mexico, I didn't have to press 1 for Spanish.
While in Iran, I didn't have to press 1 for Farsi, either.
It just isn't fair.

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Default Anything wrong with this battery wiring setup?

Bruce wrote in
:

I also answered another, much shorter, post with a plea for more
information which you have included in this post. Thanks for the info
as I am in the process of rewiring a 35 ft. power boat and wanted to
use relays for stitching with remote control switches and was having
trouble finding reasonably priced continuous duty contactors.



Make the control switches little mini-toggles, the ones with the little
bathandle in silver. Tell the customer you think those tiny switches will
handle all that current...(c; The look on their face is PRICELESS...

In a power boat, with the alternators running, the contactors' power drain
is of no consequence. In a sailboat without our monstrous 6V beasts on
Lionheart, their 1/2 to 1A drain might be more of an issue. The
convenience of remote control without running heavy long lines in confined
spaces is well worth the effort and subsequent small power usage...even
continuous duty.

Larry
--
While in Mexico, I didn't have to press 1 for Spanish.
While in Iran, I didn't have to press 1 for Farsi, either.
It just isn't fair.

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Default Anything wrong with this battery wiring setup?

Peter Bennett wrote in
news.com:

The winch manufacturers sell special contactor packages for this
purpose.. I expect that these things are mechanically and/or
electrically interlocked so that they will not put a short across the
battery if you try to raise and lower the anchor simultaneously. Such
a situation _is_ possible if you aren't careful how you wire up
individual contactors.




I use a center off on-off-on toggle switch, myself. You can't press up and
down simultaneously that way....

Larry
--
While in Mexico, I didn't have to press 1 for Spanish.
While in Iran, I didn't have to press 1 for Farsi, either.
It just isn't fair.

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Default Anything wrong with this battery wiring setup?

On Thu, 12 Jul 2007 05:46:23 +0000, Larry wrote:

Peter Bennett wrote in
rnews.com:

The winch manufacturers sell special contactor packages for this
purpose.. I expect that these things are mechanically and/or
electrically interlocked so that they will not put a short across the
battery if you try to raise and lower the anchor simultaneously. Such
a situation _is_ possible if you aren't careful how you wire up
individual contactors.




I use a center off on-off-on toggle switch, myself. You can't press up and
down simultaneously that way....

Larry


True - and safe if that one switch is the only control. However, on
many power boats, there will be winch controls at the lower helm and
on the flybridge, and foot switches on the foredeck - in that case, a
safety interlock against incorrect operation is required.



--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca


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Default Anything wrong with this battery wiring setup?

On Thu, 12 Jul 2007 18:53:23 -0700, Peter Bennett
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Jul 2007 05:46:23 +0000, Larry wrote:

Peter Bennett wrote in
ernews.com:

The winch manufacturers sell special contactor packages for this
purpose.. I expect that these things are mechanically and/or
electrically interlocked so that they will not put a short across the
battery if you try to raise and lower the anchor simultaneously. Such
a situation _is_ possible if you aren't careful how you wire up
individual contactors.




I use a center off on-off-on toggle switch, myself. You can't press up and
down simultaneously that way....

Larry


True - and safe if that one switch is the only control. However, on
many power boats, there will be winch controls at the lower helm and
on the flybridge, and foot switches on the foredeck - in that case, a
safety interlock against incorrect operation is required.



I think I'd be more likely to rephrase your statement "there will be
winch controls at the lower helm and on the flybridge, and foot
switches on the foredeck - in that case if you sail with a bunch of
fools and idiots a safety interlock against incorrect operation is
required."

Personally I don't go to sea with these kind of people.


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

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Default Anything wrong with this battery wiring setup?

On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 12:45:44 +0700, Bruce
wrote:


The other way to do it is with continuous-duty 12VDC and 115VAC
contactors available from auto parts places more cheaply. These look
just like a starter relay, except they have coils made for continuous
duty (always on).


Larry,

Re these 12 VDC continuous duty contactors available from the auto
parts with the capacity to carry starting amperage. Can you elaborate
a bit as I could sure use some of these..

....
Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)


Here's a cheesy sketch of a 3 position switch capable of driving a
winch etc in either direction using beefy contactors such as the
Stancor 2 pole make contactors.... No current taken in the OFF
position.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/brian_w/803117449/

Here's the Stancor URL that Larry mentioned...
http://www.stancor.com/jsp/relays.jsp

Brian Whatcott Altus OK
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Default Anything wrong with this battery wiring setup?

On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 02:15:53 GMT, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 12:45:44 +0700, Bruce
wrote:


The other way to do it is with continuous-duty 12VDC and 115VAC
contactors available from auto parts places more cheaply. These look
just like a starter relay, except they have coils made for continuous
duty (always on).


Larry,

Re these 12 VDC continuous duty contactors available from the auto
parts with the capacity to carry starting amperage. Can you elaborate
a bit as I could sure use some of these..

...
Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)


Here's a cheesy sketch of a 3 position switch capable of driving a
winch etc in either direction using beefy contactors such as the
Stancor 2 pole make contactors.... No current taken in the OFF
position.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/brian_w/803117449/

Here's the Stancor URL that Larry mentioned...
http://www.stancor.com/jsp/relays.jsp

Brian Whatcott Altus OK


Thanks for info. Now I've got to start visiting the auto shops to see
what I can find. One good thing about Thailand is that they import
from about everywhere. For example I can but US electrical
receptacles, junction boxes and so on although most houses use either
German or Japanese standard (or local "no standard") stuff.


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

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Default Anything wrong with this battery wiring setup?

Brian Whatcott wrote in
:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/brian_w/803117449/


And...if you want multiple stations to control the winch, you simply put
one rotary switch marked for each station in the common terminal of each
station's switch so that only ONE station will have power to this common
contact at a time. Only one station will work at a time with no danger of
one keying the up and the other keying the down simultaneously....better
control for the winch operator.

Safety-wise, this would also mean that if the rotary switch were pointing
at the footswitch on the bow, some STUPID couldn't wind your fingers into
the winch by pressing UP at the station of the helm. It would be even
safer if the rotary switch were a KEYSWITCH and you took the key with you
on your way to the bow to operate the winch so STUPID couldn't turn the
switch to his/her station. That would be the ultimate control....(c;

They're YOUR fingers.....right??

Larry
--
While in Mexico, I didn't have to press 1 for Spanish.
While in Iran, I didn't have to press 1 for Farsi, either.
It just isn't fair.

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Default Anything wrong with this battery wiring setup?

Bruce wrote in
:

(or local "no standard") stuff.


Is that like the Middle East with the mercury vapor arc lights hanging on
wires out of the ceiling or wall?...(c;

Is the TV power cord connected to 240VAC by wrapping the wires around the
two pins and holding them in place with masking tape?

My whole apartment building, 8 apartments, in Iran was wired to ONE
ceramic fuse with all 8 apartments in parallel. The fuse went through
one temporary construction electric meter covered in white paint which
was connected to the main power bus for our street by an orange #14 drop
cord running up the side of the building to a coat hanger wire which held
it up above the traffic. At the pole, the drop cord was tied around the
concrete pole through a hole and the bare wires were wrapped around the
street conductors for a "few turns" so the wind wouldn't blow them off
and "something" would make contact.

Ever so often, too many electrical loads would blow the fuse. To
eliminate the problem, our crack Iranian electrician put a 100 rial coin
behind the blown fuse to stop it from blowing. After that, he replaced
the orange drop cord, which we simply melted or caught fire several times
making toast for breakfast.

An electrical short in one apartment's bedroom outlet (only one in each
bedroom, of course), caused an electrical explosion, completely
destroying that whole apartment's SINGLE CIRCUIT electrical system right
down to the fuse base in the basement....of course, melting the orange
drop cord, yet again, putting the whole building in the dark about
10PM....

Living in Tehran was always exciting and it had nothing to do with
terrorist plots or Islamic Jihads.

Seeing these same Iranians operating a nuclear reactor to make plutonium
must put terror in the hearts of every Iranian within the Zone of
Destruction, especially downwind, never knowing WHEN, not if, it was
going to go like Chernobyl. The people in the neighborhood are the ones
in danger, not anyone 500 miles away...and certainly not 8000 miles away.

Larry
--
Try operating your whole neighborhood on a single orange drop cord with
no fuse next weekend and see if you don't have similar results!

You've gotta watch an Iranian electrician holding onto the grounded
cement pole while wrapping the drop cord wires around the hot street
conductors, in the dark, at 10AM. NONE of them ever got "old".
Nothing beats the sound of your swamp cooler powering up as he gets that
big arc from all the swamp coolers starting at once on the roof....(c;
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