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#1
posted to rec.boats.cruising,rec.boats.building
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Refinishing teak trim
Need some info from some wood finishing experts. I am refinishing a few
pieces of teak trim that had been finished with *something*, and unfortunately I cannot get Pearson Composites to give me any clues as what it really was. They first told me that it was Sherwin Williams varnish, but that company could find nothing in their inventory that matched Pearson's description, and their marine division makes only paint for big/military ships. After a lot of back and forth, Pearson told me that a good substitute would be Interlux #60 varnish. Turns out that #60 is something called "polyurethane varnish". That name of course is nonsense, it is just poly that resembles varnish. So now after doing a little research I find out #60 used to be regular varnish up until 2 or 3 years ago. So did Pearson use varnish, or poly? The final piece of info dragged out of them is that all the finishes they use are *indoor* only, and these pieces of wood are exposed to the sun (they run around the companionway) and got all ratty. Since they won't fess up and I still need to refinsh, what would be some recommendations? I need to match as best I can the rest of the interior, and yet it needs better protection from exposure. Can straight spar-type varnish be used on wood previously poly'd but sanded? Can you varnish over a few new coats of poly? And if anyone knows, what finishes might meet my needs AND be a close color match with Interlux 60, and hold up well like a good UV varnish? Of course, relative ease of future upkeep and refinishing is important which is why I would 'prefer' varnish vs. poly if possible - poly is a PITA to remove adequately for refinishing. Thanks, Red |
#2
posted to rec.boats.cruising,rec.boats.building
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Refinishing teak trim
Red wrote:
Need some info from some wood finishing experts. I am refinishing a few pieces of teak trim that had been finished with *something*, and unfortunately I cannot get Pearson Composites to give me any clues as what it really was. snip Certainly no finishing expert; however, have never found anything that was sold to protect teak on a boat that was worth the price of admission. As a result, have learned to like my teak au natural which may not be to your liking. One suggestion. Clean teak then COMPLETELY seal with 4-5 coats (1/day max) of epoxy sanding lightly between coats. You must totally seal the teak or it will fail early. Finally, seal the epoxy with a good marine poly that contains UV inhibitors which are required to protect the epoxy. When you get a poly scratch, repair it before the epoxy gets damaged. Have fun. Lew |
#3
posted to rec.boats.cruising,rec.boats.building
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Refinishing teak trim
Duh, there are lots of polyurethane varnishes out there. Since that
seems to be what is on your boat, stick with it. If you want to change to spar varnish (and why would you?) sand down to bare wood and put on a minimum of 8 coats, letting them dry and lightly sanding in between. Personally, I use Honey Teak and love it. A bit of work to put on, but very durable and only requires a maintenance coat or two of their clear every year. |
#4
posted to rec.boats.cruising,rec.boats.building
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Refinishing teak trim
Keith penned:
"Duh, there are lots of polyurethane varnishes out there. Since that seems to be what is on your boat, stick with it. If you want to change to spar varnish (and why would you?) sand down to bare wood and put on a minimum of 8 coats, letting them dry and lightly sanding in between. Personally, I use Honey Teak and love it. A bit of work to put on, but very durable and only requires a maintenance coat or two of their clear every year." Keith, Varnish is varnish, but poly is poly. Varnish can be had with UV inhibitors, but indoor poly cannot. So far I haven't found any poly that would match the original color and texture (satin) and have UV protection. The exposed teak had indoor poly on it. It caused a nasty white-ish/yellow-ish crusty look and feel to the wood that was exposed (less than 2 seasons in the N. East). As I've said, I want to be able to protect the wood, AND match the color of the original if possible. Poly is a major PITA to keep up when weathered. Varnish, like you've pointed out is comparatively fairly easy and with care lasts - and can be restored much easier than poly ever could when damaged. What I wanted to know was if I could put varnish over wood that has been previously poly'd, or would it have adhesion or other issues down the road. Thanks, Red |
#5
posted to rec.boats.cruising,rec.boats.building
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Refinishing teak trim
You're just arguing semantics. When you say "poly" to me, that means
polyethylene, polypropylene, etc. "Poly" by itself really means nothing, except some unspecified polymer. Anyway, if there is a polyurethane finish on there now, you should sand it completely off before switching to "regular" varnish. Oh yea, and if you want to really learn about "varnish", read up at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varnish You'll want to decide which of the following types of "varnish" you need: 2.1 Violin 2.2 Resin 2.3 Shellac 2.4 Alkyd 2.5 Spar Varnish 2.6 Drying Oils 2.7 Polyurethane 2.8 Lacquer 2.9 Acrylic 2.10 Two-Part You're welcome. |
#6
posted to rec.boats.cruising,rec.boats.building
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Refinishing teak trim
Keith said:
"You're just arguing semantics. When you say "poly" to me, that means polyethylene, polypropylene, etc. "Poly" by itself really means nothing, except some unspecified polymer." ....and also some useful info. Indoor Polyurethane. Never heard of the other two used for wood finishes. I wasn't really arguing semantics, just trying to learn. Thanks for the useful info and link - I am going to read it tonight. Red |
#7
posted to rec.boats.cruising,rec.boats.building
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Refinishing teak trim
Red wrote:
Thanks for the useful info and link - I am going to read it tonight. Get a Jamestown Distributors catalog. Contains some skinny you may find useful. Lew |
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