Spamfreedom wrote:


So how do I avoid this?.....during the wisconsin winters, I do go down and hand
crank the engine a few spins to move oil.....and I fogged the engine with oil
and ran the oil/dsl mixture thru fuel system etc.....following the manual....I
do need to pull the injectors off this year for cleaning (I didn;t last
year....bad?).....

Leave the poor thing alone in the winter 8-) ... unless you have an
engine preheat system with prelube all you will do by turning it over
will be to introduce cold moist air to the cylinders, wipe what little
cylinder lube remains, and rub dry bearing surfaces against each other.
You will not move any oil except for that which you are far better off
not moving.

If you are going to pull the injectors for testing and calibration then
you can go ahead and squirt some preservation oil in the cylinders. You
don't have to pull the injectors each year unless you have good reason
to suspect problems with them. They can and should go for years with no
attention at all.

If you do not have any signs of rusting under the valve covers or on the
springs as Steve described then your problem with the pushrods is most
likely carbon deposits on the valve stems. They can be the result of
your unloaded runs, people think that is good for an engine and it
simply isn't as you have discovered.

If you find rust on the underside of the top of the valve cover, check
carefully for rust on the valve springs and stems. If you find any, take
an oil can with some diesel and squirt on the springs and stems. Wipe
off what you can and refer to the hammer mentioned in the next paragraph.

It is a credit to the design and construction of diesels that they
survive the best efforts of users to destroy them with kindness. Do not
give it short runs during the layup, do not turn it over unless it is
preheated and prelubed, in the Spring remove the valve cover and check
for condensation on the underside, squirt some light oil on the rockers
and valve stems. If you are really worried about sticking valves, tap
the closed valves with a soft faced hammer to see if they are free ...
they will feel "springy" if they are, solid if they are not and a few
taps and a drop or two of diesel on the stem should free up the stuck
ones. Do the same hammer test on the other valves, some will be partway
open or all the way open, you can rotate the engine to allow the open
valves to close to ensure they are free.

Rick