So many products on the market. If you have an opinion? Between Bristol
Finish and Cetol?

"NE Sailboat" wrote in message
news:V10Hh.11344$ig.7344@trndny01...
So many products on the market. If you have an opinion? Between Bristol
Finish and Cetol?




Cetol looks like paint. Varnish is more work, but looks nicer if it's
maintained.

On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 15:49:22 -0600, KLC Lewis wrote:

Cetol looks like paint. Varnish is more work, but looks nicer if it's
maintained.

The new Cetol "Marine Light" looks less like orange paint and more like
traditional varnish.

Matt O.

"NE Sailboat" wrote in message
news:V10Hh.11344$ig.7344@trndny01...
So many products on the market. If you have an opinion? Between Bristol
Finish and Cetol?



cetol lasts for a long time and with a recoat every year. It does look like
a stain (which it is).

Varnish may last a season.

I use cetol because I do not like doing varnish work in the sun.

"Rick" wrote in message
...

"NE Sailboat" wrote in message
news:V10Hh.11344$ig.7344@trndny01...
So many products on the market. If you have an opinion? Between Bristol
Finish and Cetol?



cetol lasts for a long time and with a recoat every year. It does look
like a stain (which it is).

Varnish may last a season.

I use cetol because I do not like doing varnish work in the sun.


Even in Southern California my varnish lasted longer than a single season.
But it's important to keep it covered if possible when the boat isn't being
used. Tiller covers, handrail covers, boom gallows covers, rail covers...
many boats in SoCal have canvas houses covering the boat from stem to stern.
Of course, their owners have too much money, too.

On Mar 5, 5:34 pm, "NE Sailboat" wrote:
So many products on the market. If you have an opinion? Between Bristol
Finish and Cetol?


I've used both. And both last a long time.

Cetol is the quickest and easiest to use of the two. And while you can
top coat with their gloss finish it does not really look like varnish
when you're done. So you may need to see it on another boat to deside
if it's for you.

Bristol looks like varnish but lasts much longer than traditional
varnish. It's a two part system that takes a bit getting used to to
work with because it tends to be very thin or watery when you apply
it. But you can overcoat it with out sanding so you can build up coats
very fast.
It works best if you seal the wood with clear epoxy like West system
or CPES before appling Bristol.

Similar to the thread topic, I am wondering what is advised for coating
a wood steering wheel?

I bought this off eBay and it is NOT one of the decorative wheels with
the brass hubs. this has a bronze hub that fits my Edson pedestal and
appears to be mahogany. It's quite weathered and I've stripped all the
remaining varnish off. (There wasn't much left anyway).

I have a sunbrella type cover for wheel/pedestal/compass so this will
not be left out in the elements when not in use.

What would be good coating options? I'm not looking for classic yacht
perfection. In fact I'm willing to trade perfection of finish off in
return for less effort in coating.

So far I have two suggestions:


1) Coat 2x with product from rotdoctor.com then 7-10 coats of varnish.
(the wheel is not rotted. But this fellow says the product is a great
sealer).


2) Use some sort of sealer or filler to even out surface, then coat 3-4x
with West epoxy.

Any thoughts or other ideas welcomed.

(My address is phoney due to spam)

On Mar 7, 12:39 am, wrote:
Similar to the thread topic, I am wondering what is advised for coating
a wood steering wheel?

I bought this off eBay and it is NOT one of the decorative wheels with
the brass hubs. this has a bronze hub that fits my Edson pedestal and
appears to be mahogany. It's quite weathered and I've stripped all the
remaining varnish off. (There wasn't much left anyway).

I have a sunbrella type cover for wheel/pedestal/compass so this will
not be left out in the elements when not in use.

What would be good coating options? I'm not looking for classic yacht
perfection. In fact I'm willing to trade perfection of finish off in
return for less effort in coating.

So far I have two suggestions:

1) Coat 2x with product from rotdoctor.com then 7-10 coats of varnish.
(the wheel is not rotted. But this fellow says the product is a great
sealer).

2) Use some sort of sealer or filler to even out surface, then coat 3-4x
with West epoxy.

Any thoughts or other ideas welcomed.

(My address is phoney due to spam)

Wood it, 2-4 coats West or CPES, sand smooth, then 4-6 sprayed coats
of two part poly. Did that to two wheels 15 years ago. The interior
one still looks like it was done yesterday and the exterior one lasted
8+ years semicovered before it needed recoating.

wrote in message
...
Similar to the thread topic, I am wondering what is advised for coating
a wood steering wheel?

I bought this off eBay and it is NOT one of the decorative wheels with
the brass hubs. this has a bronze hub that fits my Edson pedestal and
appears to be mahogany. It's quite weathered and I've stripped all the
remaining varnish off. (There wasn't much left anyway).

I have a sunbrella type cover for wheel/pedestal/compass so this will
not be left out in the elements when not in use.

What would be good coating options? I'm not looking for classic yacht
perfection. In fact I'm willing to trade perfection of finish off in
return for less effort in coating.

So far I have two suggestions:


1) Coat 2x with product from rotdoctor.com then 7-10 coats of varnish.
(the wheel is not rotted. But this fellow says the product is a great
sealer).


2) Use some sort of sealer or filler to even out surface, then coat 3-4x
with West epoxy.

Any thoughts or other ideas welcomed.


Charlie hasn't convinced you that Cetol is the way to go? He's going to be
disappointed.
For something like a wheel that is going to be handled a lot and maybe
banged into from time to time you may want to go with durability and I would
guess epoxy is the ticket. I think that rotdoctor stuff may just be a thin
type of epoxy that penetrates the wood. There was some discussion about
thinning epoxy on the list a while ago and I think you can use acetone but
denatured alcohol was better, up to 10%. A coat of thinned epoxy followed
by several coats of regular should do it. Don't know about UV inhibitors in
epoxy but it might be worth asking about as they would help preserve the
wood.

On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 18:17:19 GMT, "Gordon Wedman"
wrote:

A coat of thinned epoxy followed
by several coats of regular should do it. Don't know about UV inhibitors in
epoxy but it might be worth asking about as they would help preserve the
wood.

I've had bad luck with the epoxy turning cloudy after a while and
ruining the look of the varnish.