In re-reading my post;
Perhaps the term "engagement nut" is incorrect. There is no engagement, as
in a locking situation. Even at full pressure from the winch handle
tightening the nut, there is still only friction binding the two surfaces
and reducing slippage.

However in my situation with the OEM disc, the anchor/chain would free fall
once I powered down until the anchor was off the bow roller. Now I have to
power down to near water depth (~40 ft).

There is no opportunity, in ordinary use, to have the surfaces polish or
smooth themselves. In order to power down, I have to tighten the clutch so
the motor shaft is engaged thru the warping drum to the gypsy.

I've even considered putting a little grease on the disc surface to
encourage some slippage. If it doesn't work, I can always clean it off with
brake cleaner/solvent. (I did this on the rust pitted winch clutches and
brakes on my 50 yr old mobile crane. My seem radical, but it works fine for
my purposes.)

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Steve wrote:


In order to power down, I have to tighten the clutch so
the motor shaft is engaged thru the warping drum to the gypsy.

So just "power down" with the clutch "loose" it will slip when it's worn
enough ... try lifting with the clutch loose and it will hasten the
running in process.

I've even considered putting a little grease on the disc surface to
encourage some slippage.

That would be a big mistake.

Rick

I've even considered putting a little grease on the disc surface to
encourage some slippage.

That would be a big mistake.


I kinda expected and deserved the admonishment Rick.

Thanks

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

1) Is the new friction ring the same material as the old one? Are you
sure?

2) Is the metal surface against which the friction ring rides smooth?
Really smooth, even after your incident?

3) If both answers are "yes" then my guess would be the bonding was a
mistake. Unbond (burn it off, if necessary) and start over if you
have to.

Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


"Steve" wrote in message ...

I've even considered putting a little grease on the disc surface to
encourage some slippage.

That would be a big mistake.


I kinda expected and deserved the admonishment Rick.

Thanks

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

1) Is the new friction ring the same material as the old one? Are you
sure?

No. the brake material is much courser than the original but it was all they
had available in that thickness.

2) Is the metal surface against which the friction ring rides smooth?
Really smooth, even after your incident?

The drum surface is chome plated and is very smooth with not even a scratch.

I'm considering taking it back to the clutch brake shop and ask them to sand
it smooth. I'm sure they must have some form of surface sander for that type
of business.

Thank.
Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Steve:

The coefficient of friction is much more related to material than to
surface finish. Consider a rubber eraser -- very smooth, but very high
friction. IIRC the friction material in Swee****er's Lofrans windlass
was a phenolic/Bakelite/Tufnol type of stuff, much less friction than
a brake or clutch lining.

Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


"Steve" wrote in message ...
1) Is the new friction ring the same material as the old one? Are you
sure?

No. the brake material is much courser than the original but it was all they
had available in that thickness.

2) Is the metal surface against which the friction ring rides smooth?
Really smooth, even after your incident?

The drum surface is chome plated and is very smooth with not even a scratch.

I'm considering taking it back to the clutch brake shop and ask them to sand
it smooth. I'm sure they must have some form of surface sander for that type
of business.

Thank.
Steve
s/v Good Intentions